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Andyjr1515

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Andyjr1515

  1. Started the carve of the neck/body transition. Still more to do, but this is the sort of thing I'm going for: It already feels nice as you head towards the top frets but I'll probably scoop the carve out a little more. For those of a nervous disposition, by the way, the two dark lines near the neck join are grain lines in the Sapele, not cracks I've changed tack on the skunk stripe lining up with the purpleheart stripe by the way - I've moved to "from the player's point of view, when it's on the strap and he's gazing lovingly down at the back, it lines up nicely" Overall, I think the shape is coming together. The only thing that niggles a bit - and it may look quite different once the two waist relief areas are deepened (this afternoon's job) is that the back to me looks a bit flat? Having said that, it maybe because this is the first non-concave backed build I've done in a while...maybe this is what they're usually like! So, a bit more body carving and the control chamber next on the list of to-dos
  2. Hi As far as I can work out, Stellah appears to have been mainly low-price generic style basses and guitars and low price guitar and bass kits. Reviews, especially of the kits seem to be consistent in terms of well machined woods and, with the kits retailing at not much more than £100, 'decent value for money'. I guess they were of Far East origin. I say 'were' because they don't appear to be trading under that brand any more. Most reviews and references I can see date from around 2010. There are some youtube clips around of both the kit products and the fully finished models. Yours is clearly a modern take on the 'Explorer' models. I think it looks good - I like the subtle change of styling. If it plays well, then enjoy it for what it is.
  3. I started doing the neck fixings but have ordered some different inserts. The first one went in OK but I was a bit bothered that the hex sockets used in the inserts for self cutting the threads as they are inserted were a touch oversize - I don't want one of them getting 7/8ths in and then can't get it fully home or out again! Still, the one I put in is sound enough for me to be able to do a bit of 'air-bass' and be able to start the heel carve of the back of the neck pocket: At the exposed side, the heel will be tapered slightly to meet the back (you can see the 2-3mm overlap in this shot that will be merged) and then rounded towards the bolt recesses and then the front blip (RHS on the above photo) will be slimmed towards the neck.
  4. Love the web site. VERY professional-looking
  5. Somehow missed this update. Looks good!
  6. No - Crown Tools. They are great and weren't crazy expensive
  7. By the way, anyone spot the 'spectre with a mole on its chin spots the Ghostbusters coming down the corridor!'?
  8. Before cutting the chamber for the controls (they are going to be top mounted on a purpleheart plate), I need to double check how much real-estate they are going to take up. This is @fleabag's requested layout (albeit the other way round): He's also supplied me with the pots and switches. So they will be laid out a bit like this on a purpleheart plate a similar shape to the pickup cover: Should all fit. I also reminded myself of how to do a series/split/parallel with an on/on/on switch: Just got to remind myself WHY it works....
  9. Folks who read my build threads will know that I really, really, really dislike routers. They are OK for deepening and flattening a chamber when used with a guided bearing and completely captive within the chamber...but other than that they are of the devil! So for pickup chambers nowadays, I start with a Forstner: Then straighten up the top 10mm with chisels. Nowadays, by the way, these are pretty much the only chisels I tend to use, both sets bought from Axminster: And then - and only then - use a guided router bit within the chamber to take it to final depth. Note by the way, the appearance of the cable channel I cut before I put the top on:
  10. When I get to shaping the heel, it's useful to already have the screw recesses in place: The carve along the heel line will be radiused to cut into the recesses - if I get it right, they should follow the angle of the machine screw ferrules. I probably will get the neck to a stage of being temporarily fitted before I sort out the carve of the end blip - this one will be more about feel than aesthetics, and you can't really do that until you are in a position to be able to play 'air-bass' with it. Next job is carving the chamber for the pickup cover to fit into (which, incidentally is at this very moment winging its way to Kent for Aaron Armstrong to do his stuff) and carving the controls chamber. While that goes on, I'll carry on reviewing and tweaking the body carve until it's 'right'
  11. Well, having surprised myself making the pickup cover, certainly aren't going to risk it getting crushed in transit to Armstrongs!
  12. Good excuse to get out into the surprise sunshine Carve is starting to get there. You can see here that my chamfer isn't quite deep enough yet - you can see the very edge of the glue-line/step-line there!: In terms of the overall shape, still a bit to do but I think this is starting to look right:
  13. More like this - which is I reckon closer to how @fleabag drew it in concept anyway
  14. Trying it on the body, I reckon this is visually too long. I'll take 10mm off each side by softening the radius: There's plenty of meat there to take off and still have large enough blocks for the height adjustment screws: Carve-wise - I think this is actually just about there for most of the body. Just got to finalise how to treat the chamfer on the lower-horn cutaway. Anyways, I'll consult @fleabag to what he reckons
  15. While I ponder on the next stages of the body carve, I made the final version of the pickup cover. I'll send this off to Armstrongs early this coming week: I have to say, making a thin-walled box like this was quite satisfying...
  16. Is that figuring in the fretboard? Nice, whatever...
  17. You see. Not so painful was it? Sounds pretty stupendous to me. Nice playing, too
  18. Excellent Thanks for posting - even if it is a silent and still movie It looks good!
  19. OK - that's enough for one day. It's a sleep on it and have a look in the morning - especially what best to do with the lower horn and cutaway and the curve of the top horn. Oh - and check with @fleabag that this was what he broadly had in mind Adding a bit of dampness gives a clue to the final depth of colour:
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