Andyjr1515

Waiting James' reply, but I know which one I would have It was a great suggestion, @TheGreek

Another job off the list, other than the dots (I've put luminlay as an option to the customer, @TheGreek - thanks for the suggestion) and the tru-oil, I've done the knobs Same method as on @Len_derby 's: Drilled a hole in some thicknessed ash: Without moving the drill or wood positions, then used a forstner for the nut relief: Then a plug cutter to cut it out: Drilled a grub-screw access hole and pressed the insert in, with grub-screw lined up with that small hole and also used the plug cutter to cut out a disc of top wood: Then, adding a disc of veneer between the two, glued and clamped it together: Finally sanded to shape: So just the dots to add once I've had an answer of luminlay or MoP

Hmmmm...it's a thought. The luminlay dots might be a bit big but it's definitely worth thinking about...

OK - a bit of a respite between visiting one set of relatives for Christmas and another set visiting us running up to New Year While the finishing process is progressing, I'm knocking off a few of the remaining jobs. First is recessing the bridge. It's a small change but makes such a difference. From this: To this: using these simple tools: This is one of the only thing I use the little Veritas hand router for - but it's great for ensuring the bottom is completely flat. This small version is actually a bit of a flawed design but I think I've used it often enough to consider its bigger brother which is a much better design. Other things done are the luminlay side dots: And in the meantime, the finish is becoming silky smooth to the touch and nice and satin to the eye: Tomorrow I'm going to try to make a trio of knobs and also sort the truss rod cover

That is quite, quite stunning! Lovely.

I dont know if this thread is any use: http://forums.ernieball.com/ernie-ball-music-man-basses/47670-differences-body-thickness.html It reckons 2006 - 2009 models are 44mm? Might not be accurate, of course... I think I'm right in thinking the present ones are 1 5/8" which is slightly slimmer at 41.275mm

You say the nicest things Merry Christmas!

I like poplar burl. It's the mix of quilting and burl that makes it so attractive when the finish is applied

By the way - it isn't too much Christmas spirit got into Andyjr1515...the through neck IS parallel and the hatch IS parallel to that...it's just the camera angle and lens distortion that makes it look squiffy Of course, if YOU have had too much Christmas spirit, it might look perfectly straight

As amongst the final tasks before the Christmas period, I managed to sand down all of the body and side stain trials and reapply properly. Over the last couple of days I've started laying down the initial tru-oil coats ready for the final slurry and buff coats that will be finished after Christmas. This is how it's looking now: While the final coats of slurry and buff are hardening over the post Christmas period, I will be starting the finish jobs. Allowing for family stuff over Christmas and New Year, it should be ready to ship mid-January Have a great Christmas, all. As always, many thanks for the support and encouragement over 2018 and see you all the other side! Andy

OK Starting with the most likely - the saddle tight and not seating properly: - take the strings off - pull the saddle out of its slot - if it is very tight, use pliers but protect the saddle with a bit of paper - check that the piezo element in the bottom of the slot is all the way across the slot and that there isn't a solder knuckle/lump showing at one end ... if it isn't or there is, report back - check that the saddle, while being a snug fit, will slide down to the bottom of the slot and can be removed with normal finger pressure. If it is tight, run the side of it over a piece of fine sandpaper until it is a snug fit but easily pushes to the bottom of the slot. Don't sand it too much - you want to avoid the saddle being a sloppy fit. Put the strings back on and see if it now works. - while you have the saddle out, does the bottom look straight and flat? If not, report back. Let us know how you get on Andy

For reasons I can't remember, I think there is a slight change in tone when you do this but as @paul_5 says, it's very easy to do so why not try it. If it does change the tone and you don't like it, just swop it back. If it doesn't change the tone - or if it does and you like it - result. I wired wwgringe' s African build directly and it sounded great...

Has it always been like that or has it just started? Assuming it's an under saddle piezo, it is usually that the saddle isn't resting properly on the piezo element. That can be because the saddle is a bit tight in the slot or that the bottom of the saddle isn't flat or for other reasons. Usually easily fixed. What bass is it?

I made a mix of chestnut spirit stains using their very useful sample packs (which I'd already got - both their wood colour samples and their poster colour samples) For the neck it was a mix of Light Mahogany + Yellow + A teeny touch of Orange + meths to thin it down and reduce the intensity Just wiped on with a cloth. Couple of coats For the Ash, because of the brown tint to the wood, it needed something extra. I was going to add more orange, but in the end added some thinned Yew stain to the neck concoction and a drop more meths. I did 1/2 dozen samples on some scrap and tweaked the shades and tones until it looked about right for what the client was asking for. Pleased to say that I've heard back from him and he's happy for me to use that as the basis

It will darken when I do the proper job to an extent. I'll see what the man in Hawaii thinks

We're still experimenting with colours and contrasts. I always find that it is only when you pin down one element that you can see the valid options of the next and, with the fretboard and neck now the colour the owner wants, it is time to look at the other elements. And hmmmm….the back.... While the ash was quite dark alongside white maple, this neck is now SUCH a strong colour, the ash looks a bit wishy washy? Also the yellow tint from the strong amber clashes with the brown tint of the ash - certainly when you see it in real life. With a bolt-on you can often get away with this, but a through-neck, in my view, needs to coordinate (whether with contrasts or complimentary shades) between back, sides, top, neck and fretboard and this doesn't yet do that. So time for some more experimenting. One thought was to maybe go for complimentary colour between the back and neck and a greater contrast between sides and top. So I did loads of colour checks with some ash offcut until I came up with this one. The dye on the ash is a totally different mix of dyes in a different strength to that applied to the neck but the result is quite close to each other in the colour spectrum. This is a test only so don't worry that it's a bit patchy! It's sufficiently different to still have a distinct through neck-look but now both back wings and neck have an amber hue on the orange/yellow side And, to my eye, the depth of colour makes the sides contrast better with the top: I've sent the shots across to 'our man in Hawaii' to see if this is getting close to the overall look he had in mind.

I've stained the neck and fretboard and started applying the finishing oils. Ref the fretboard and neck, the owner has always preferred a strong amber tint. For particularly the fretboard, to contrast it needs to be lighter or darker than the top. I did a few trials (my own inclination was to go lighter, like @Len_derby 's, rather than darker) but in the end we pitched for a match of a bass he sent me a photo of and which contrasts the other way round - strong colour neck making the body top actually look a decent number of shades lighter than it actually is. Fascinating stuff. Anyway, I'm about 1/2 way through the finish application and this is how it's looking: Couple more days of finish application and then that can be sitting hardening while I do the remaining jobs. Oh yes, and there's probably Christmas in between those two sets of activities

In terms of supply, I get my Schaller M4's from Touchstone Tonewoods. The 2r2l sets are on back order at the moment but are between £52 and £56 a set - less than half the cost of the Hipshots.

Hi I've used the Schaller M4 90 tuners on my last couple of builds and will probably use them for my future builds. They look good, they operate smoothly at a pleasingly high gear ratio for accurate tuning and they are noticeably lighter than 'standard' tuners. They claim 40% lighter but I don't know what they are comparing against. I do know that they are 44g each because I've just weighed one. I prefer them to Hipshot because the gearing is sealed and they are a decent price against Hipshots more outrageous costs. The bush is 14mm so if the holes in your bass are also 14mm (can't remember what Warwick are) , you won't need to drill out or pack out but it is very rare that the positioning screw at the back is in the same position for any replcements of anything. If I'm right, it is nevertheless an easy job but you will need to drill a pilot hole in the back to avoid the possibility of snapping one of the small screws. Not tried them, but it is worth looking at Axesrus who sell a licensed ultralite copy of the Hipshot at less than half the price. Anyone tried them? I have to say I've always been pleasantly surprised with the quality of the Axesrus own stuff - their new lightweight 6 string electric tuners are lovely....

Just let them dry first - doesn't take long. Main thing is not to scrunch them up, trapping concentrated flammable gasses while they sre still wet.

Yes - that is correct. Like a lot of finishes, the rags need to be laid out to fully dry in a well ventilated area to avoid the possibility of spontaneous combustion.

Actually - just read the article that David Dyke refers to. It is Birchwood Casey Tru-oil referred to in the article and I am sure that is what David Dyke sells. It's actually an excellent article - 'Well Oiled with Adamson' Google it and the pdf is there

To clarify, 'Tru-Oil' is the registered trademark held by Birchwood Laboratories so the only true 'Tru-Oil' is, indeed, the Birchwood Casey one. But you are quite right - there are a myriad of blended linseed-based out there. I think the key is how hard it sets and how quickly and it will be the additives and blends that will affect that. I assume that the reason that the BC oil gives off that quite strong smell is that something is in there is evaporating to make the gloop harden more quickly. I'm sure that from a wood protection point of view they all do the same job in other respects. I haven't tried David's blend. Might give it a go Thanks for the lead.

Yes - that is the real thing

Thanks for the great feedback, Ewan. One of my favourite projects Have a happy birthday on 27th!