Andyjr1515

Stunning job. Respect, @Twincam , respect.

Very interesting stuff, @Grangur I particularly like that method you are using to add the twist. Looks very controllable.

It's going to be a disturbed weekend again so I have tried to get some more of the major steps sorted in the last couple of days. I have started the finishing process on the body. I'm a bit unconventional in that, regardless of what I will eventually finish it with, I 'grain fill' and seal using a tru-oil slurry-and-wipe approach. Here's the back and sides after the first application: While that was drying, I carried on with the neck fitting. It is going to be bolt-on mortice and tenon, using captive nuts. This all has to be very accurate and square: When screwing in the inserts, not only do they have to be very square to the hole, but - from bitter experience - I also support the sides to avoid the process splitting the wood: This means we have a self-supporting neck that can be tightened fully against the body... ...for the next somewhat iterative process of checking and adjusting the neck angle on both planes. By the way, note at the joint that the inside is scooped away so that the only contact is at the sides of the heel. First check is whether the neck angle to bridge is correct: This is, happily, exactly where I need it to be - the level from the fretboard is just touching the top of the bridge - the bone saddle will provide the string action height Then I have to check the alignment of the neck: Not so good. So I need to shave a touch off the base side of the heel - while not affecting the neck angle and maintaining a good heel to body joint. This will have to wait until next week

Yes - it was based on your experience that I opted to try it the other way round

I've popped a reverse P on a modified Musicman Sterling in the past. I'll try to find the details

Yup - happy with that: What with all the dashing up to Aberdeen and such, have only just ordered the trussrod so can't fit the fretboard and carve the neck yet. Still, plenty more to do in the meantime - not least the final sanding and finishing on the body, which needs to be done in any case before the neck and bridge can be fitted. As always, by the way, thanks for the great feedback

What is nice about building for yourself is that you can try new things (well, new to me) without experimenting on someone else's build. Never tried binding a headstock plate before but I reckon this works pretty well: I cut and filed the neck fairly closely so there's no chance of accidentally taking off the binding when cutting the neck headstock outline: ...and ready to glue.

The case padding is excellent

I'm not sure that the full and comprehensive description of how the product is used and the essential dimensions to assess what it will or won't do, that are (not) supplied on tonetech's website, will convince many to part with that amount of cash.

That is SUCH neat work... Beautiful!

Temporarily back from grandparenting so thought I should try and crack on. The swift logo is easier done before I cut out the headstock shape: Also popped a swift onto the heel cap. Here the heel cap is being glued at the same time as a couple of wing blocks for the headstock: The heel cap looks like this: And a quick mock up with the cut out headstock plate: I've never tried it before, but I'm going to see if I can bend some purfling all the way round the headstock to just add a finishing touch. I'll try that tomorrow...

Grandparenting has got complicated - going to have to skip after all Have a great bash, folks Andy

Hi, Si Only just caught up with this bit of the changeover. Now I understand why @jebroad manfully stepped into the breach! Huge thanks for sorting the previous bashes and best wishes for your next big adventure!

I got one of these too. Unbelievable difference in cutting ease and efficiency. Over time (because they are pricey) I will be replacing all the bit sizes I use for critical jobs.

Yes - Stanley blade or single edged razor blade scrapers are a good way of dealing with both necks and fretboards...

Not absolutely certain yet, but there is a fighting chance I will be able to make this now! I should know for certain in the next day or so

Yes - almost instant result. Holding the veneer bond for 10 secs or so of cooling is all it takes to fully grip. If you see my current Dreadnought Acoustic thread, I've just applied one of the pairs of binding in the same way and it worked a treat...and there are a lot of bend stresses with wood binding but it seems to hold as well as glued wet and fully clamped. The pva is dry before ironing so you can come back to it hours or days later and just heat to remelt. Seems to be fully repeatable too...

I think probably yes but have never tried it. Just try a small patch of veneer on an offcut of sanded wood - it's a pretty instant process so you will know straight away. Don't know if the waterproofing of titebond 3 makes a difference...

Yes - clearly the costs depend on specification, but I find on my own builds, even for 'normal' pickups and hardware, the cost of the materials are rarely less than €1000. When I get enquiries for builds I always make it clear that they could get a perfectly decent playing bass in the shops for less than just the neck raw timber costs me... I'm not on my main pc, but even on my phone those builds of yours do look pretty special. You should put one of them forward to the e-zine "No Treble" to be considered for their 'Bass of the Week' feature. They have featured four of mine and like you, I am essentially a hobby builder. If they like mine, I reckon they would love yours!

By the way, I like very much how you designed the hidden through neck. Neat solution and a good demonstration of the accuracy you were able to coax out of your router. Very nicely done

Or just looking at that Dingwall, maybe I meant strap looped round the rear lower bout...

Hi Marco They look beautiful and very nicely made using good woods. All of them. Clearly the acid test is how they feel and how they sound - and price is whatever the market will accept - but my own view is that the price you charged your friend was a decent starting point.

Our bass guitarist has a genuine 60's fake Firebird electric. I've played it a number of times and yes, the rear strap does run in an odd direction - I seem to remember it looping behind or round the rear upper bout. Again, when I'm back I will be able to send photos.

Hi @Christine I'm away from my October at the moment but in brief I usually attach the back button, then put a strap on and hold the front end in various possible places to feel how the balance feels (obviously with all the hardware already in place) Generally you can feel what is going to work and what isn't. For all my own guitars nowadays I put the button at the 3/4 position at the side of the bottom heel but I need to attach a photo to explain why - and that may be a few days away!