Andyjr1515

Hi Yes - I've done a few. This tutorial I did on ProjectGuitar covers quite a bit of it (I think it allows none members to see but let me know if not) http://www.projectguitar.com/tutorials/finishingrefinishing/bedroom-builders-wipe-on-varnishing-r67/ The only things I would change - because since that article Ronseal Hardglaze (if you used that) has had a formulation change - are with the new formula, I would thin it a lot less - more like 10% rather than 30-50% I have started using the lint-free white polishing cloths from Halfords - the micro-fibre cloths are OK but the new formulation of Ronseal doesn't level as well and the texture can leave wipe-lines Of course, you might be using something else. The principles will be the same - just do a few trials to get the best proportions of varnish to thinners. Just shout if you want any pointers along the way Andy

Not sure about the physics, but in my practical experience, the mass of a bridge makes a tangible difference to the tone, volume and sustain of both electric guitars and basses The most demonstrable (and here the physics is maybe a little more intuitive - I guess inertia values?) is the humble tremolo block on a stratocaster. Put a heavyweight one on instead of a cheap lightweight one - on the very same tremolo - and the sound comparison is like chalk and cheese. I suspect the effect on a bass, again is quite discernable for anyone who's tried it, is from similar causes but is certainly less pronounced.

I think it's a great idea For me, it would have to be a single pickup capable of moving from the Stingray position all the way up to the Jazz neck position, just to be able to see once and for all if there is a sweet spot or spots without the distraction of the other factors involved in most other such comparisons. Very tempted to do a sister build...

I used to make anodised aluminium extrusion and know how much it costs per metre, so biting my lip at the huge profit margins clearly involved by someone along the way (and I suspect that's not the Taiwanese), it does seem to be very well made...

Assuming the Andyjr1515 conversion of 3 Andyjr1515 months to the minute, then - for a mere king's ransom - of course...

I've taken a chip out on pretty much every build. Luckily always rectifiable so far but I think I was pushing my luck

You're most kind, Mick It's more about reducing the risk of an unplanned router gouge somewhere important late in the build - and also reducing the shower of chippings I usually end up being covered in every time I get the router out...

Hi Those of you who follow my threads will know two things: My workshop is TINY I absolutely HATE routers Well, based on MrsAndyjr1515's assertion that I fill every room in our house with my c**p already, the first item is unlikely to change But I ought to do something about the second one - if only because there still are certain things I have to use a router for and, hand routed, they remain the messiest and most risky operations pretty much of any of my builds. So, with a short break between actual builds, I decided to rethink my cellar / workbench arrangement and ask the question of whether there was any chance of all of getting a small router table in there. And I've just done it and I am so, so pleased with how it's turned out. The research and thinking process was long and painful (especially the thinking bit ) This is what I ended up with: Anyone who has also looked at tables will know that it is a complete minefield of partial and/or ambiguous information of what each option will do or not do, how portable, how big, what routers they are compatible with, what guide rings they are compatible with, what comes in the box and what is extra, how heavy, how easy to disassemble, how stable, etc, etc.. I also had a requirement to be able to easily store it in a very small space when not in use and small enough to be able to use it in the narrow standing space in front of the workbench And this latter requirement knocked 90% of the options out. So a bit of lateral thinking. Was it madness to consider using the folding stand from my £12.00 (yes £12 !!!! from Maplin, god bless em and RIP) lightweight workmate and do a 'bitsa' job on the table itself? Could I use my Draper router fixed base (on the right in this pic) that - against all odds - actually does fit into a so-called universal sub-base: ...and therefore be able to still use it as a hand router with the plunge base and remove it easily for storing the table and changing the router bits. And the answer was yes. Not cheap, but I think meets all my requirements. And - if early trials are anything to go by - SO, SO, SO much safer, more accurate, easier to set up and cleaner than hand routing. This photo was taken immediately after rounding all eight sides of a test piece. The sawdust in the tracks were from an earlier tryout without the vac attached. The rest of the chips - ie none - were what were left after the cuts: Can't tell you how chuffed I am

Thought had never crossed my mind Wonder if @Si600 would be happy to Parcelpost it across to me every now and again

Catching up on some much neglected threads! I've been following this on one of the other forums and @Bridgehouse is aware of how impressed I am with his build. Indeed, he is now a fully-fledged member of the 'Why Do Great Sounding Basses Have To Be So Heavy? Answer - They Don't' club And this one does look great. And it's super light. And it sounds fantastic!

Fascinating thread. A lot of thought is going into this build

What next, @Si600 with this? It looks a nice bit of kit. Continuing to watch with interest.

Somehow missed this along the way. Great transition! I agree also with the maple neck - very classy

Splendid! Love them

I have indeed had a sneaky preview listen. Very cleverly, the overdub is of @Bridgehouse 's 64 Precision and, separately, this lightweight beauty, both in the mix of the same 'live' track. Different tone to the 64P, but absolutely the same level of gravitas and clarity and yes...I can feel a bit of essence of Ric there too . Trust me - it sounds great.

Somehow missed your earlier post. I think all of us have probably had to do at least one 'try, strip off, try again' moments with our finishes. In my case, it still happens!

Yes - and there's a hatch into the cellar, directly over the bandsaw Well, I keep seeing these Russian/ US election interference documents where every 4th word is redacted, I thought I'd try it here

..and by the magic of a rough hack with Photoshop, we have the full progression: Left to Right: Pete's piccolo bass, my Swift Lite, Jane's Nyhavn Swift and Neil's Swift Lite Bass

It's confirmed - delivery to @Len_derby tomorrow evening Here it is with its little brother: My 25" scale (PRS-scale) 6-string electric on the left is 5lbs 14oz; Neil's 34" bass on the right is 6lbs 6oz

Gosh. Everytime I see this it's COMPLETELY different. I'd missed the reference to the chequerboard in your earlier post! You seem to have retained the squareness of the vinyl despite going round some significant curves. How on earth did you manage that? Looks great. Love the chequer against the orange pickguard. Looks very special

Masterly

Hmmmm...sitting round for a while is a great time for sketching out and planning out the next ones

If it is similar to the camphor laurel I used, it was very stable. I am pretty certain that you won't need anything above your normal finishing for either rigidity or stability. The filling of the voids is basically aesthetic.

OK - slightly different answer to my earlier post. The single cut above, which is actual Camphor, wasn't actually very holey. As such I got away with just creating a slurry by sanding with wet and dry but using Tru-oil as the wet (basically a variation of the 'slurry and buff' approach). Also, the slurry is the sawdust of the predominant wood - and this camphor was similar hues all around so filling small voids with that lighter slurry didn't detract from the darker burl This one below, was Camphor Laurel (it is actually a type of laurel as far as I understand) which was holey like yours: And this one, yes - I mixed ebony sanding dust with epoxy and filled it with that. This gives a true black fill of the voids: This one below was the same Camphor Laurel, but this time I did a tru-oil slurry and buff. Bear in mind this is not full gloss finished, but you see how the lightness of the slurry tends to soften the burl effect: So, I would say for maximum effect, mix epoxy (Z-epoxy would be my choice) with a decent amount of a very dark sanding dust, for a lesser effect, you could slurry and wipe. Or - you could opt to leave unfilled, as I have for @Len_derby 's very recently finished burl poplar lightweight bass:

Yes! Yes, I have. Kert's (FuNkShUi) single cut custom was camphor burl And I THINK I used epoxy mixed with wood dust - but that might have been one of my other builds. Give me two ticks and I'll find the photos. This was the bass: