Andyjr1515

Hmmm...well I suppose theoretically. Certainly, when Jez (for example) and I put black and white demarcation lines between the fretboard and the neck that, essentially, is what we do: However, like @ikay 's lovely ACG, it has the stability of being sandwiched under some thick flat wood. If I hadn't used my last piece of myrtle for the Bassbash demo (it would be a shame to cover up such a lovely veneer) I'd have a go. I have done some daft things with veneer, though:

Can't quite work out what I'm looking at here..

That is flippin' gorgeous!

No problem. I'd have only had to explain it to the probation officer in any case

I'm not sure quite what stages you are talking about but you can certainly rout chambers into an already veneered body. I would be a touch more cautious about the edges and neck pocket, etc, as the chances of a semi-supported edge of the veneer pinging off is quite high. I noticed @Si600 was videoing some of the demo - any of that worth posting, Simon? By the way, I used a bought Paulownia Jazz body for the demo. VERY light, but very, very soft. When I was demoing sanding the veneer edges, the 0.6mm veneer edge was remaining proud as the 35mm thick paulownia body was sanding away to dust!

Yup - and bear in mind that the deko ones are the quality rejects sold as 'not for playing'

Hi It sometimes takes necks a little while to settle. Also, extreme temperature and humidity differences can make a big difference (in many parts of US, winter / summer adjustment of trussrods is routine) and we've had some extremes this last couple of weeks (assuming you are mid to south UK). You can help to accelerate straightening a neck by physically bending it, but as long as the truss rod isn't getting worryingly tight, I would carry on tweaking it and leaving it a day to settle then check again and repeat if necessary.

^ This It will probably be a bit heavy and you will want to put some better strings on, but I would heartily recommend something like this Harley Benton from Thomann: https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_b_550fl_bk_progressive_series.htm?sid=df3d9ef6c1dcc84bc1c58f4f3e612d3d Other colours are available, but at around £140 this will be unbeatable value for money and almost certainly a decent player - and probably a lot cheaper than defretting your Ibby (which would be a shame and a compromise)! If you read my build threads, you will know that I build high-ish end custom basses....but I never hesitate recommending Harley Bentons for people to try out new things and styles. I personally have never come across a bad one yet. And you can get a decent one for less than it costs me for the wood for just the neck alone of one of my builds!!!!

Beautiful...

That sounds pretty close @Skezza ? @pete.young - are the bridge and neck pickups supplied the same size if a set is ordered? As far as I can work out from the EMG site, the LJV and LJ pickups - which appear to be pretty close to the required size - are both voiced for bridge position. Whether that makes any difference in reality I really don't know....

It reminds me of old fashioned chocolate neopolitan icecream Lovely contrast

Back and unpacked. Huge thanks to @Si600 for organising it once again. I thought @Jabba_the_gut 's and @Norris 's presentations were excellent...as were their builds. Mind blowingly good. Great to catch up with everyone

Thanks @naxos10 ! @Skezza - pm'd you since our telecon. Based on the telephone discussion - which is that the main issue is the single-coil hum buzz rather than the preamp itself - my suggestion is that you look at stacked humbucker options before worrying too much about the pre-amp at this stage (someone else above, I think, beat me to it with the same suggestion ). Single coil J pickups will 'humbuck', to a limited extent, when used together in the same way as a Stratocaster position 2 and 4 does (it's OK, folks. @Skezza is also a guitarist). But used individually, they are all susceptible to mains interference, regardless how well the cables and control chambers are shielded, and the pre-amp is unlikely to have any positive impact on this. The key thing - as there is no such thing as a 'standard size' for J pickups - is to find some suitable ones that are the correct size. Specifically, the length, width and distance between centres of the fixing lugs. If you can check these dimensions and post here, I am sure that I - and a host of much more knowledgable folks than me around us - will be able to come up with some options for you to consider. Andy

I absolutely love the look of this bass! Ref the jack socket, when you get a moment, swop it for a Switchcraft one (Axesrus, Allparts and many others). They are only a few £ and are fitted to most top flight makes. If you've had to bend the contact, it will fail again at some stage. I have never had, or even personally know of anyone who has had, a Switchcraft one that has done the same...

I don't think there's any danger in me not doing that, Silvia You know me - I even stop strangers in the street with an 'Excuse me, but have you seen my new build? Here, I've got a few hundred photos. Oh, wait a minute...can you see them properly if you're walking this fast???'

Hi With the last three builds being on the 'dark side' (6-string electrics), it has way overdue for there to be a return to bass guitars And I'm really pleased to have been asked by Neil ( @Len_derby ) to build one! Neil and I met at a Basschat bass bash a few years ago and found out that we live only a few miles from each other - and if that isn't an excuse for an occasional pint, I don't know what is. Anyway, the broad spec Neil has asked for is going to be of particular interest to me as it is following the continued development of lightweight instruments. It's going to be a 34" scale bass, with a body taking the general shape of the top half of my 6-string lightweight in the middle here, with the bottom half of Jane's on the right, with the number of strings of Pete's on the left : Mocked up (just shape wise - ignore the headstock shape and the body wood), scaled up and with everything in the right place for decent balance, etc, it should look something like this: The aim will be to get something tangibly lighter weight that the equivalent Jazz bass or similar, using similar construction and weight saving techniques as the three in the top picture. Other spec ideas being crystallised include: Thru-neck Black block inlays on a maple neck Light but figured top wood. Maybe poplar burr, maybe maple burr, but something in this ilk: Back wood Ash or Swamp Ash Fretted Passive, 2 J-pickups Loads of details to sort before chisels start cutting timber but my mind is already working overdrive ! Neil's away at the moment but we're travelling together to the Midlands Bass Bash on Saturday. Guess what's going to be the main topic of conversation! Andy

I love Wals! Fretted, fretless, don't mind!!!!

This is how I do it too. Remember to hog out the bulk of the wood with a forstner bit first and just use the router to take the last few mm off the sides and bottom - or, if you've actually done the routing on the shot above, 'did you remember...'

Honestly, this is going to look a million dollars when it's all finished Excellent work.

Blimey - you don't hang about, @Jimothey ! I like those colour combinations

Excellent

Yes - you need to either find a smaller grubscrew or file the other end down a bit so it doesn't stick out further than the bearing. Or, assuming it is a 1/2" bearing and 1/4" shank, pm me your address and I'll send you a collet with a flush grubscrew. Got one here from an old bit.

My watch does it in certain circumstances too

That's what I do too. I find the long cutters far too dangerous and my router has limited plunge so I use a 1" long top bearing cutter, then flip the body over and use a bottom bearing cutter to take the rest of it off. Also, because I use a personal rule of never cutting more than 2mm depth at a time, I either bandsaw VERY close to the template line on the blank, or use progressively small guide rings initially to reduce the blank to within 2mm of the template. I'm a bit paranoid about routers...

It's a bit odd - the collar and allen screw would normally be smaller dia than the bearing and cutter... If it's just the allen screw that is running proud then you could slip the collar off , tighten the screw til it's flush, then use a circular needle file to take off the excess in the bore. If , when the bit is in the router, the collar butts up to the collet, you could even take the allen screw out. The collar, and thus the bearing, can't go anywhere... Don't do this, however, if there is any gap between the collar and router collet. And I reiterate what others have said - small cuts, multiple passes!