Andyjr1515

It's OK - all the resources of that particular honour will probably be used up on me.

Yes - probably

Looking good

This is a great way of clambering up the learning curve First of all, the neck pocket. When you say 'it's not a p-type neck' that could mean a lot of things! If it is off a Fender or Squier or any of the myriad copies of those makes, the likelihood is that most P-bass type bodies will have a neck pocket that is broadly the right shape. You might need to add a bit of veneer to the pocket sides to tighten it up, or sand a touch off the sides to loosen it, but it should be close. If the neck is not from a fender-ish copy of any sort, then it is very much not likely to fit a P-bass type body at all. So first question is - what is the neck off? (Pics?) Next is what the others say above. Basically, the bridge position is determined by the scale length and where the neck is once it's fitted snugly in the neck pocket. So the next question is again the neck - what scale length is it? Just measure from the nut to the 12th fret. Then double it gives your scale length (a P-bass will measure 17" to the 12th fret, giving the 'standard' long scale length of 34") Again, if the neck is 34" scale and is off a Fender-type copy and the body is a P-bass copy, it is likely that the bridge holes will be in the right place. If the neck is not 34" scale, then you would definitely need the bridge in a substantially different place, to the point that it might not even be feasible. If the neck is 34" scale, but not a Fender shaped heel, then the bridge position would be calculated once the neck pocket had been sufficiently modified and the neck position confirmed. Hope that helps Pop a couple of photos of the neck headstock and heel and the nut to 12th fret measurement and we'll be able to give you a better answer

The great thing about building your own guitars is that you lose the fear of changing things A couple of times, friends have gone pale - after agreeing with me that something might be maybe shaped a little differently - when I immediately get out the rasp file and hack into the gleaming beauty, there and then. "Something like that?" I ask, as they sway from the shock. Well - I'm just about to do the same here. Having played this myself over a couple of days, and having just watched someone whose objective opinion I greatly respect play it, I'm going to get the micro-plane rasps out tomorrow and create some sawdust This is what it looks like at the moment: And this is what I think it should look like: Yes - it's subtle but I think it will make a big difference to the playability. In summary - Slightly deeper cutout at the top horn. The contact I watched play is - a bit like me - a lazy-thumb player. That is, his thumb stays in the 'wrap-round' position even when he's playing the higher frets. And when he's playing the highest frets, he anchors his thumb round the cutout. In terms of my own playing (I rarely venture that high playing lead...makes my nose bleed) there is one number where I have to play barre chords with a capo on the 8th fret. It is possible with this guitar as is, but it would be a lot more comfortable with another cm of hand space Slightly deeper cutout on bottom horn. No real benefit to me, but same logic to a 'proper' lead player Slightly further rearward lower waist. This guitar, as is, is GREAT on the strap...but, for me, it's just not quite right played over the knee. I was interested to see exactly the same when my contact played it It will only take 1/2hr to make the changes, but it will then, of course, need refinishing. But that itself is an opportunity because I'm going to give the Gloss version of the Osmo one more go - but applied closer to how it is supposed to be applied than how it's been applied above. This, of course, means a complete strip-down but what the heck - what else am I going to do in the evenings?! Oh...just to add. My contact runs a very successful guitar and music shop and - with me allowing maybe a smidgin of smugness to creep in - I feel obliged to mention that he loved the neck profile and feel. Took a while to get my swollen head through the shop door back onto the street

Interestingly, the CTS pots I've used do have T18 splines. Like you, I was pretty sure they were finer. They have brought out a metric version and more budget versions...maybe that's what I have. Anyway, for the sake of a couple of £'s, I'll probably get the pihut ones too. Again, thanks for the leads

Some amazing sites, Richard. I'm going to give those inserts on the Thonk site a try. I do the old trick of scewing the grub screw into the gap of the split spindle - it should splay the 1/2 mm oversize OK. At 55p each, it's certainly worth a punt. Thanks for the lead - don't think I'd have ever found this myself

That's great info Richard. I will follow the links with great interest

So, with the missing knob arrived, final finished pics As always, thanks for the fantastic support and tips and tricks you have all generously given along the way

Thanks, Kert

Hi @honza992 Ah! I knew I'd seen that somewhere! So it was yours Thanks for the link

They are indeed very smart

Ah - should have read that first

Yes - some good pointers here. One of the YouTube clips I looked at broached the spline - and similar, I think, to how @Norris did his. Plenty of time - I'll experiment

Putting crazy thoughts of knobs to one side, today - being drizzly and miserable - is tweaking and set up day The first and most important is getting the neck profile to just how I like it. Many other builders think I am completely bonkers, but I do this 'live' with the guitar fully strung up, ready to play. It's simple and it's quick - in fact I've done this in the past while the new owner of one of my builds has been sitting there having a cup of coffee! Basically, I : Put a large plastic bag around the guitar body Hold it cello style, but back to front - ie with the back of the guitar facing the audience and the headstock digging into my chest Take my trusted and humble cabinet scraper Scrape it gently to shape, using full sweeps heel to volute, feeling for any facets left by uneven cuts Check progress frequently by popping it back to playing position and playing a few of my regular riffs Once happy, double check for lumps or facets Sand Slurry-and-buff with Tru-oil or Osmo Here it is at the early scraper stage: Whole process takes less than an hour - plus a bit of resting period (for Osmo) for the slurry and buffed finish to harden. And so I now have a neck I'm REALLY happy with and can play comfortably - even with my arthritic hands. Basically, I've taken it from 'C' to very soft 'V'. That takes some of the haunches away and makes it easier to wrap my thumb around (it is an electric, after all, so lazy playing is de rigueur ) while not losing the depth, more comfortable with the barre chords. Next is tidying up some of the squiffy ferrules, put some slightly longer pickup screws (gold ones) in, sort the nut height and do a basic set up of relief, action and intonation.

Great - thanks for that I'm going to have a go. The brass knobs currently on the volumes and planned for the tone - although OK looks-wise - add about 3oz. When I'm trying to get closer to 5.5lbs rather than 6, those oz make a difference. It really does need a lathe but I am well impressed with @Norris 's results on a drill press. I will, however, try for grub-screw inserts if possible with my rudimentary equipment (and that, of course, will add some weight). In for a penny and in for a pound - I'm going to see if I can get a MoP swift on the top too. Yes - I know. Madness

And how did you fix them to the shaft?

I'm VERY pleased with it, Mick

Hmmm...that's a thought. Never thought of using the pillar drill....

OK - I'll do the finished pics once I've done a full polish and got a proper tone knob - and straightened up and glued the loose ferrules! And it still has to be set up, etc.. But, visually, it's pretty much done. Where did that pesky heel go???? Not set up at all, but I have to say it plays pretty well straight off the bench. The neck feels nice, but it is more Fender 'C' than my preferred soft 'V' - I will fettle this over the weekend to suit my playing style (I always do the last shaping once the strings are on and I can really feel how it plays. It balances nicely on the strap - but is a little heavier than I was aiming for. Pre the extra fettling and using heavy solid brass knobs (I'm on the lookout for some nice wooden ones), I'm coming in at over 5 3/4lbs, which is 3-4oz heavier than planned. Not bad, though...

It's come up nicely, @Jimothey

Sorted the bridge and ferrule drill holes (it's thru-body stringing) and, after trying both in a mock-up, settled on black pickup rings with gold screws rather than the other way round. I'm doing all of the jobs that might dint the soft finish before a final flattening and the last couple of gloss coats on the body. This is how it's starting to look. Pretty sure, by the way, that the slightly skew look of the pickups is the wide angle lens and not the actual fitting - although, with me, anything is possible :

It's looking good @Jimothey . Neat job with filling those cavities.

We're on the same page. I too like 34" scale basses but prefer them to either sit well to my right (ref the strap position) or with the bridge well back and therefore the nut that much closer to my hand

Forgive me for teaching granny to suck eggs Yes - as long as the bridge is on solid flat wood then yes - it can be right back to the edge. However, just be aware that the playing position of your hand will be in a different place to some other basses. I personally like a rearward bridge because it reduces the 'apparent' scale length - which with my short arms is a great advantage! The Cort Curbow I played for a bit (I was putting a replacement body on it) felt like a short scale but sounded like a long scale (which, of course, it was)