Andyjr1515

And...with the magnets fixed to both hatches: It's finished It's too dull and dark to take the final arty-farty shots - I'll do that in the morning

Not at all bland to my eye. Both options would work well IMHO...

Excellent!

Here's a full shot, by the way. The colours have really toned down what originally looked like a large headstock. I really like the look of this - you need to join the Fender Custom team, @scrumpymike

Bit of cable tidying to do but - WE HAVE SOUND!!!! Just the hatches and final set up left to do

No - it will be fine. Feels quite light on the strap, although there is not a huge amount of reduced weight... There is still lots of spaghetti sticking out of the back, but the front view won't change from this other than the lipsticks height balanced during the set up: Looks nice, doesn't it Just the pickup wires to resolder to the switch, the magnets to put onto the hatches and then the final set-up.

Yes - second version has pulled it all together. Looking good Will be watching with great interest to how this continues to develop

Pickups are in and strap buttons fitted. It balances very well on the strap:) If I can squeeze a couple of hours iin between all the other seasonal duties tomorrow...this might get finished!

That is flippin' gorgeous

I've heard of reaching into one's feminine side but I see you're reaching into your 'My Little Pony' side Yes - it was a decent objective for both Mike and I to work against but I suspect it will never quite become a Rascal again

In the brief respite between two sets of relatives taking time and attention over Christmas and New Year, I managed to fit the machine-screw inserts that arrived on Christmas Eve (I'm sure Santa had something to do with it ) So this is reversible for the original Fender screws to go back in the original screwholes if fitted back to the original Rascal body, the easiest option was to simply reposition the anchor points for the machine-screws so 'this body=machine screws, original body=Fender screws': And in action on the new body, using stainless steel allen-socketed screws: So this is where we are with a fully-fitted neck: And from the back it looks like this - note the darker stain for the hatches Mike asked for: So, from memory, that leaves: Tidy up of hatch recess fit Fit magnetic catches to hatches Fit pickups and pots Fit strap buttons Set up

Ooooooooh...Dakota red and Cream. We'd be into little red corvette territory....sounds perfect

I can see another masterpiece coming on. Curses!

I don't really know enough about this aspect (ie, achieving mwah!), but logically the nut won't have any effect because the mwah is created as you run a 'fretted' point up the fretboard, and the neck likewise won't. I'm personally sceptical that the fretboard would make too much of a difference, assuming that it is a relatively hard wood. Action height will and therefore neck relief will - if it is too high, then you won't get the vibration of the string interacting with the fretboard at the 'fretting' point. And string tension will - lower tension will vibrate more and therefore hit the fretboard more. The pickups and /or eq might...piezo's and some other pickups emphasise the higher frequencies better and, logically, the mwah frequencies are the higher ones? But maybe there are other factors. If it was me, i'd check the action height, I'd try low tension strings and then, because it is probably the cheaper option, spend a day in a well stocked shop and try other basses. Anyone else got a view?

There may be other factors in play. The most likely is string tension...I'm guessing (anyone know for sure?) that string makes or types with lower tension will mwah more than those with higher tension. There is a table somewhere (google should find it) where someone has put down the actual tension values for different makes and types of bass string. I'm not sure the neck itself will be the main factor....

Ref nut and truss rod for fretless, I set the truss rod exactly the same as a fretted bass and the nut so that the strings are just touching the fretboard. If in doubt, a gnat's whisker above the fretboard is better than a gnat's whisker digging into the fretboard. Personally, I use D'Addario Chromes for fretless to reduce the fretboard ridges that round-wounds can sometimes quite quickly leave.

Great job

Thanks, John. Waiting for some replacement captive screws that were wrongly sent and, irritatingly haven't arrived yet to then finish it off. I've still got a few other jobs on it which I will hopefully clear over the next two or three days in between the 'Christmas preparation help' task list (which is quite a long list!)

Flattery is always welcome but I'd be well pleased if that was one of mine...

I think that looks GREAT! Well done

Lovely job And matching headstock, I also reckon

Go for the second option. You need the length of pocket to spread load from the upward pull. The pocket wood itself will be strong enough without the wood from the cutaway being there (think bottom horn of a stratocaster - it's just the same)

There's a video of one of the Herts Basschat bashes here with Nick Smith demo-ing the Super Quads - including playing Mick's that I had delivered to him earlier that day

The Sims site is a bit misleading. The info on the Super Quad is on their main site, not their Super Quad or Sims Pickups site... Anyway - it's here There's an installation video on that page too. Can't recall offhand which of the single coil pairs cut. Trouble with turning them round is that the 'P' bass setting will also be reversed (as well as those large connectors ending up on the far side of the pickup chamber. I would stick with how they are designed - the sound options were pretty good.

Good to see yet another build on the go, Jez. I stole that 3-sashclamp trick from last time you posted it. Great tip And that's got me thinking. I'm on nodding terms with a few hospital surgeons. Hmmm....bone acoustic saddles?