Andyjr1515

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1503436942' post='3358324'] When I've done other refinished I've used paint that takes ages to dry - it's chestnut's melamine lacquer this time and I'm a bit out of kilter by how quickly it dries - I could be going way faster! I've now got a completely flat surface of lacquer! with a bare minimum of tiny shiny spots - there are about 4 spots where i went through the finish to the wood so doing a quick restain and then will give it a couple more layers before the final sand back and polish....! The good thing is that the burst to black means that going though the finish at the edges looks like it was almost planned! [/quote] Can't wait to see the finished finish

Somewhere along the line, I seem to have missed the pickup covers. They are inspired! And the reasoning for doing them is just as inspired Nice fingerboard, too.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1503040274' post='3355187'] actually learning from you about not putting any 'finishing' pictures up when in progress. Sanding sealer on, tried to work out the grain filler but it didn't seem to work so don't think that was too successful. also managed to run through a couple of places - on the back thankfully. Couple of layers of laquer on now - waiting a bit then will flat down and do more layers... [/quote] That's my boy, that's my boy Hoisted by my own petard, then, I wait patiently with only a soft drumming of fingers on the table....

The engraving looks pretty neat to me...is that all freehand?

[quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1503260966' post='3356824'] Setback 2 as you thought it looks like the bridge mounting screws will be at the point where the neck meets the body the centre two screws would be in solid neck wood but the outer two would be in the gaps you can see in the pictures. [/quote] This one should be a reasonably easy fix. If it was me, I would drill a decently sized hole (10mm dia minimum) to the screw depth with a forstner bit and glue in a hardwood dowel. There will be enough surface contact with the dowel for the gaps not to be critical. Most of the force on the bridge screws is sideways so it should be perfectly secure enough.

[quote name='winterfire666' timestamp='1503063732' post='3355453'] very nice job, love the green, thanks for all the info and pics, i think im going to bite the bullet this weekend and give it a go :^) [/quote] If you are doing the artwork over the present finish, then actually you wouldn't need to strip the present finish off - just matt it off with fine wet and dry to provide a key, paint the artwork, then spray clear over the top?

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1502312141' post='3350660'] fairly - I think the most exciting bit just happened though... So building up layers of stain starting blue grey and getting darker and adding more of the black.... so I just painted the edge black and then hopefully blended it in - the middle though lifted some of the deep black showing a more bluey black colour - if it dries as good as it looked wet I think I've managed a pretty cool burst effect! [/quote] Any pics yet?

One of the pleasing things of doing my own builds is that i am getting better at envisioning the end result of other builders projects. These two are going to be jaw-droppingly good

Excellent buy, ped I'll be watching this with GREAT interest

Hi again, winterfire666 The basschat thread has gone (it was 2014!) but I still have the photos. This was Bryan's (allighatt0r) Thunderjet: The finishing turned out to be:[list] [*]Top colour coat - easily removeable, over [*]Poly-coat - tough as old boots, over [*]Black primer [/list] I used heat gun and scraper: Here you see the poly under the top coat. It really is VERY tough stuff: However, once you break through the poly (for this, for me, heatgun is the only way. Sanding is a quick route to insanity), the black primer is easily sanded off: On Bryan's, there was a thin ply veneer over the body-wood laminations...a number of makers do this, including some Squier models: Where there are cutaways (beer-gut carve at the back, arm relief carve on the top pictured here) you are down to the base timber but you can see in the above shot the ply on the flat surfaces. Same on the back. In my case, I was veneering the flat surfaces on the top and the back, but this was how it ended up: The veneer is over the top of the ply - the cutaway is the just the underlying wood, stained and varnished Hope this helps!

I refinished allighatt0r's Westone a few years ago. I'll have a peep at the photos when I'm next on the desktop - I might be able to find the thread too...

Very clever stuff. It is rare that folks explain the relicing process as comprehensively as this. It's fascinating!

Lovely job I bet it sounds fabulous...

And with the glue dry, the top is cut out. This is it slightly dampened to show how the figuring will come out: There are some rich colours in there, probably better seen in this sunshine shot: This is going to tone and contrast with the mahogany back beautifully... Talking of sunshine, the camphor laurel is a very 'hole-y' wood. It's very stable but many of those burrs are actually gaps. Here's the sunshine shining through: These will be filled with epoxy mixed with ebony dust - I keep a jar of ebony sandings just for this kind of job. When it's done, it will look like it was always there and, indeed, further enhance the look of the burls... Next job is to finish-thickness the neck beam and cut out the two necks from it

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1502437006' post='3351361'] Can't see the pics from here....which is frustrating because I can't wait to see the progress!!!! [/quote] I see them! And they look GREAT

Can't see the pics from here....which is frustrating because I can't wait to see the progress!!!!

[quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1502392428' post='3351208'] I'd love to be able to get a lacquer check finish like that on some of my relic jobs I say keep it original if you can [/quote] I think that puts us in the majority view...so far

Hi Joe Someone said earlier you'd get loads of different views So, for what it's worth... Having seen how much trouble some builders go to to create exactly that kind of crazing, my inclination would be to leave it alone. It's what old finishes do.... And what mojo! Where there are complete chips and wood fully exposed, I would just subtly dirty the fresh exposed wood - literally wiping it and rubbing it with unwashed hands usually does the job nicely. But whatever you choose to do with it, it's going to be one special instrument

I've been finishing off a fretted alternative neck for a lovely Wal which has distracted me for a few days, but all of the main components for this are now sorted ready for cutting to shape, that is - neck (maple / purpleheart / mahogany); back (mahogany); top (bookmatched camphor laurel): You can probably see how I'm going to get a second neck out of that beam!

Looking good, lel Andy

Thanks, folks

Yes - that's going to work

Thanks for your kind words, folks . Always hugely appreciated! Andy

No competition for me - flamed maple and ebony Voted

I would say that modesty forbids..... ....but pants to that old rubbish I GOT A HAT TRICK OF NoTreble 'BASS OF THE WEEK' with Mick's Psilos!!!!!!!!!! [url="http://www.notreble.com/buzz/2017/08/07/bass-of-the-week-ajr-guitarmods-psilos-bass/"]The NoTreble article is here[/url]. And while you're there, it's worth a look around - it's a GREAT e-zine (even ignoring that fact that I would say that wouldn't I ) Andy