Andyjr1515

OK - I now pretty much know how I want to proceed with this. First I wanted to compare:[list] [*]Freshly sanded wood (left) [*]Osmo Polyx Raw treated (middle) [*]Untreated wood simply dampened with a cloth (right) [/list] Well - it certainly does do what it says on the tin! : The next was to see the effect of applying some Crimson White Stain - significantly thinned - on the figuring. So:[list] [*]Left has the thinned Crimson stain, left to dry then coated with a single wipe of Osmo [*]Right is raw timber with a single wipe of Osmo: [/list] As expected, even though the Osmo does itself supress the flame figuring a tiny bit, the Crimson stain completely masks it. I was expecting this but, with the Crimson stain being so watered down, I'm surprised that the flame is completely gone! So conclusion - stick with Osmo only. Next experiment was whether the Osmo would 'slurry and buff'? The answer is yes - and the resulting finish is so much nicer than the usage recommendation of just wipe on. I'm going to let the test area dry overnight but even not fully set, it feels silky... All being well, I should be able to sand it all back down in the morning and apply the first of the final finish coats

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1499262088' post='3330366'] Sounds like you've had too much paint fumes... no one in their right mind should be getting this excited [/quote]

Top left area is the Osmo, top right is Tru-oil and bottom is unfinished: End grain is even more impressive - top is Osmo, middle is Tru-oil and bottom is unfinished: And this has had a quick trial coat all over, including the fretboard to see how it performs: I have to say, this is a bit of a revelation Next check is to see how quickly, how well and how non-tacky it all dries. I also am using the thin trial coat to show up any sanding scratches or missed bits before I do the proper coats. The whole thing will be sanded down one more time before then. Other checks and trials include:[list] [*]Will this slurry-and-buff in the same way as, say, tru-oil? [*]If you do that, do you lose the lightening? [*]I also have received the Crimson White Stain. Can this be used under the Osmo? [*]How much does that then lose the figuring? [/list] Going to have a busy and interesting afternoon!

I'll post some pictures later today, but first impressions using the Osmo finish is that it is SUPERB!

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' timestamp='1499101566' post='3329185'] When I tighten the truss rod, I tend to straighten the neck with hand pressure to make the operation easier. Loosening the truss-rod reduces the pressure anyway, so I did not think it was a problem. I only remove one string at a time, because I'm working on the basis that a truss-rod force with no counter-acting string tension is as bad as string tension with no counter-acting truss-rod force. You have much more experience, and you do it differently, so what is the rational behind your advice? David [/quote] Decent question, David. I'm not sure my experience counts for much but the conventional wisdom is probably based on historical failures of truss rod threads, nuts and allen sockets. The problem isnt as much the rod itself, but the forces involved in turning the nut when it is under maximum tension is always going to be much higher than when it is under less tension. If everything is spot on, it will be OK - the nut or allen socket not soft, the correct and unworn spanner or allen key, the threads on the rod and nut to correct hardness and no dirt, corrosion, etc.. But sometimes one or more of those is not spot on and if the thread strips or breaks or the allen socket rounds off...well then there's a very serious problem. All that slackening off the strings does is reduce that risk. And it's perhaps more about how serious the consequence of failure is than how likely it is to happen. As an aside, there are some basses and guitars where I personally don't slacken off - you can generally tell by how stiff the nut feels whether it is a potential problem. There are others where I would always slacken off. And sometimes it depends on the value - the beautiful and valuable '86 Wal I'm doing some neck work on at the moment is one of those...

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1499085623' post='3329023'] Is it a uv blocking finish to stop sunlight changing the wood colour over time? [/quote] I think to a certain extent - it's designed to try to retain the 'just sanded look' long term. Having said that, I'm a bit sceptical of some claims or some suppliers....

Don't get too excited, folks! The specialist finish should be with me by the end of tomorrow, so we shall see how that goes. I've sanded off the tru-oil back to the wood so that it has the best opportunity of working: You can see how much the figuring disappears against this one when the tru-oil was on it - but also the 'wetting' effect of the oil (albeit against the most contrasting background): It's subtle, but I'm hoping the Osmo will be too The hope is that I get a bit more of the figuring with a bit less of the darkening. I'll let you know Wednesday / Thursday

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1498930390' post='3328091'] I hope you've kept some offcuts to practice on (Ever sucked an egg? ) [/quote] Actually, you're talking to someone who time and again has chucked 'stuff getting in the way' only to realise it was offcuts for currect projects In this case, however, I've kept them all!

Like pretty much everything else related to this build, there's a lot of experimentation and testing with the finish. What I'll be trying to do is to balance the figuring (which is quite something on the sycamore) against the lightness of colour. The standard 'slurry and buff' produces the most glorious feeling smooth, silky, organic result. It also brings out nicely the quilting on the sycamore. It does, however, darken the wood (pretty much to the same extent as if you wet it with a damp cloth). How much that is depends on what you contrast it with. Against dark, it looks pretty light and whitish: But against lighter backgrounds, it looks more tinted: For the sake of a little bit of experimentation, I'm going to try a specialist wood finish - Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044). I've got some on order that should be with me on Tuesday. It has the reputation of lessening the 'wetting' effect of wood when you apply the finish and leaving it [i]closer[/i] to the sanded look. Now the reason I need to experiment is when you read how it does that. All finishes 'wet' the wood. Trouble is it wets more - and therefore darkens more - wherever there is end grain. The Osmo has a tiny bit of white in it which fills the more open pores and therefore darkens a bit less in those areas. Sounds good, you think. But of course the figuring is enhanced by the very same phenomenon. So using this [i]might[/i] reduce the figuiring. Only one way of finding out.... I'll let you know

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' timestamp='1498854064' post='3327630'] Looking at your truss rod cover, is it shallow enough to allow it to be removed while the strings are on? It looks quite thick in the picture. David [/quote] You have to slacken them off at the back tuners and just pull the strings clear either side of the nut but you don't have to unclamp them. Not a problem really because you need to have the strings slackened off before you adjust the truss rod in any event.

While pondering on that, though, the exciting bit (for me at least) is that I've started the finishing. I make it a general rule not to show the shots for the first couple of coats, but it bodes well. Yes - it's darkened it, but what a lot of figuring there is in that wood! I should be ready show a couple of shots sometime tomorrow...

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1498833270' post='3327458'] Could you inset some brass washers where the strings thread through the headstock? [/quote] I want to retain the 'teardrop' opening if I can. Hence me thinking in terms of brass tube sunk into the vertical holes, but with and angled top cut peened over and sitting in the teardrop. Hmmmm....maybe a picture would be a bit clearer than that description

[quote name='blablas' timestamp='1498831025' post='3327427'] Brass tubing - Steampunk. [/quote]

[quote name='Si600' timestamp='1498813520' post='3327186'] Are the grooves from the string holes a byproduct of stringing it and is there a way of having a ferrule to protect the wood? [/quote] Some is the original filing, but there are string marks too. As I mention above, I haven't decided yet whether to put ferrules in or not. I'm going to get some brass tube and have a play with a curved lead-in of brass first.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1498765313' post='3326960'] Bass is looking great. And I pretty much level, recrown and polish frets in a similar manor. Although I use various grades of sandpaper wet and dry, then autosol, which does a great job. However I wonder if I should start using a combo of paper and micromesh as autosol can be messy and on some very hard fret material a few more grades would really take out any microscopic imperfections. [/quote] Hi, Twincam Thanks! Yes - Autosol is great, but you can imagine the problem on this in terms of staining... I've never tried using my method for stainless steel frets (which I avoid wherever I can) but it works for me for standard fret material.

Next job was fixing the trussrod cover. It will be held with a single pair of neodymium magnets. Because it has been cut out of the headstock plate itself, it's a very close fit and is quite thick, it needs some method of getting it out easily! Enter, one fingernail slot: And one fingernail groove in the headstock plate: And a neat, tight fitting cover that can nevertheless be removed easily when necessary: While this shot is here, worth mentioning that I still haven't decided whether to put in some hidden ferrules or not. Also, ignore the couple of gaps around the swifts - I haven't done the filling yet!

And here it is, with all the magnetic catches and screening in place ready for sanding. If you look at the back edge, you can see where the concave curve will be sanded into the cover:

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498738234' post='3326704'] Yes - twice baked salami. Your memory is better than you thought Although any finish will darken the wood, the intention is to keep it as light as possible. So, to enhance the feel, I'm opting for the tru-oil "slurry and buff" all over - it leaves the wood protected but SILKY smooth and yet very organic. It should also be pretty much the minimum of darkening of all of the finish options. [/quote] And then add the pink leopard skin, of course...

[quote name='Daz39' timestamp='1498736094' post='3326671'] *sniff* it'll suffice questione - because it's been many pages and I have forgotten. Will there be a finish on the instrument? Oil, poly, cold pressed olive oil, twice baked salami etc.? [/quote] Yes - twice baked salami. Your memory is better than you thought Although any finish will darken the wood, the intention is to keep it as light as possible. So, to enhance the feel, I'm opting for the tru-oil "slurry and buff" all over - it leaves the wood protected but SILKY smooth and yet very organic. It should also be pretty much the minimum of darkening of all of the finish options.

[quote name='cheddatom' timestamp='1498735391' post='3326659'] I really hate it when it says there's a new post on this thread but it's just a load of compliments for Andy and no new photos for me to salivate over [/quote] Is that better?

Continued rain means the final sanding probably will be done tomorrow. Nevertheless, there is plenty, plenty, plenty still to be done! The control chamber cover will not only need to be sanded flush, but also with a slight concavity to match the body. Before doing this, therefore, I need to know exactly where it's going to sit. And to do this, I need to:[list] [*]Double check the depth of the deepest components (battery + clip and the stereo jack) [*]Deepen where necessary [*]Line the chamber and cover with copper tape shielding [*]Install the magnetic catches [/list] This is where I am so far:

[quote name='roceci' timestamp='1498731989' post='3326606'] Like others, been following this thread quietly and like other others, don't usually like [s]anything other than fender shapes[/s] single cuts, but this is absolutely stunning. Loving the tradecraft, the decision making, the quality of the work...the whole thing is fascinating and what a beautiful instrument it's turning out to be! Well done Andy, you're a very talented bloke [/quote] Thanks, roceci ...and Mick's got a decent eye for a design...

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1498685330' post='3326406'] What, no updates, no pictures??? You do realise I won't be able to sleep tonight... [i]Is it done yet??[/i] [/quote] NO! I was defeated by the rain today - I need proper light for the final sand so the cellar is no good. There should be a decent amount of progress tomorrow, though. And NO - it's not going to be finished tomorrow!

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1498612793' post='3325904'] Really? I was hoping for a short scale acoustic five string with thunderguts on it..... [/quote] Oh, acoustic! Well, you should have said that in the first place! OK, I'm sweeping up the workshop now ready to bring the logs in. I'm assuming, of course, that we are talking all carved from a solid billet? If you'd like to pay the advance into my Bank of Nigeria account we can get the ball rolling

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1498525975' post='3325279'] You have to love the sparkling frets in that last pic. Top job Andy. [/quote] Good to hear from you, Stuart. And no....I'm NOT going to build you one