Andyjr1515

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1498245825' post='3323431'] Obviously the case will have an inset cut to shape and then lined in Leopard print fur. [/quote] Why stick at a print? I was thinking a genuine pelt might be more fitting

[quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1498245602' post='3323429'] So cool [/quote] Thanks, Mel

By the way, a few thread followers are still a bit confused to the actual shape -it is a bit Dali-ish and difficult to stand up to take shots! So while the test strings were on I took some straightforward plan and elevation shots. [b]Bearing in mind that the final sanding and rounding hasn't yet been done, one of the test strings I'm using is a bit short, the hatches are't yet located and there is a carved feature still to put on the back of the headstock! [/b] ...then this might give a better idea of the actual shape: Ref the side on shot - see what I mean about it being very slim. Hence it's very light....

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1498232771' post='3323337'] I think your best option is to get one of those squared-type cases and line it with some foam to make it suit the bass. Something like this: Then add the necessary foam to make the bass sit tight and secure. [/quote] Yes - I think you're right. I went to the local music shop today and talked through with the owner. Although he didn't have any, we came to much the same conclusion. Stunning, by the way, how many respected case suppliers don't put the internal dimensions of their cases on their web sites!

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1498164089' post='3322949'] Just looking at that photo have you thought about how that is going to fit in a hard case, or alternatively what protection it is going to need in a gig bag? [/quote] One of the tasks on the list is to go to the local stockist and see what fits and what doesn't I think the length more than the depth will be the challenge. Remembering that it is super-slim, it is actually only 80mm thick. A slim Ibanez is 70mm and my Les Paul is 110mm!! On the other hand, the severe offset makes it quite long.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1498158650' post='3322900'] I like that a lot. [/quote] Thanks, Twincam

This is how the tuner block is supported, by the way: I've only got two screws on it at the moment and it's solid as a rock (the screws just hold it in position - no side force on the screws at all) The saddle is nearly there. These are closer to the tension of the strings we'll be using and the truss rod and action have been adjusted. I reckon the saddle needs to go back one more mm. I'll try that in the morning...

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1498155344' post='3322873'] It will also let the player bend the e string further down the dusty end - if that was something you wanted to do [/quote] My mum always told me to try to keep away from the dusty end, so I wouldn't know about that....

Thanks, folks. Usually there's madness in my method, but now and again there's method in my madness....

One of the discussions Mick and I had was about fret marker dots beyond where the neck joins the top horn. I think this works quite elegantly....: It's using the smaller 3mm luminlay... Still loads to do but it's another one off the list

Still loads to do but it is starting to come together. One thing that I can now confirm is that the playing position is going to be very good The weight of the tuner block - I'm pretty sure - will swing the body to the right on the strap giving easy reach to the lower notes. The block itself sits a couple of inches clear of, but curving round the player's butt. Control positions appear to be pretty good. The drop-away built into the extended fretboard seems to work well with no feeling of 'tapping the top' while you're playing. It's light, it's slim and and it sits well. The surprise is that over the knee it's pretty damn near perfect - probably the best I've played - again, because the balance gives a slight headstock-up sit, making for very comfortable reach throughout the fretboard. Today I'm going to finalise the saddle position and level / dress the frets. For that I need to use Mick's 'special' strings. I won't photo those until the thing is fully finished

[quote name='rk7' timestamp='1498118290' post='3322566'] I haven't done any Basschatting for a while due to ill health, but I thought it was time for 'the return of the eyebrow'. I have therefore just discovered this thread today. On the upside, I had 14 pages of superb Build Diary to read in one go. Incredible work Andy, as ever! Subscribed in an instant RK7 [/quote] Thanks, RK7 Good to have you back I've missed that giraffe!

It's all looking good, Luke ...and worth getting that neck pocket template absolutely right. You do right to abandon the ones that aren't perfect

Oh...by the way, I nearly forgot. I still have to sand it flush, but I DID get the hatch done

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1498060062' post='3322295'] ..and no disrespect to Andy and his work but so do I... I'm beginning to think I might need to worry about being hijacked on the road when I collect it.... If it happens there are currently 38,201 suspects.... [/quote]

[quote name='cheddatom' timestamp='1498057179' post='3322264'] On the one hand I can't wait to see it finished, but on the other I really don't want the thread to end! [/quote] I do...

OK - this is where everyone thinks, "Oh that's that, then - it's finished!" It's far from finished but, to misquote Churchill, we may well at least have got from 'the end of the beginning to the beginning of the end' I have some strings on: It's fitted with some spare strings I keep for the purpose. I will need to string with Mick's favourites to sort out the final saddle position but the less they are messed about with the better. At the moment these are just single clamped at the headstock and it's holding great. Double-clamped will hold excellently.

[quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1498049068' post='3322208'] Outstanding! Proper 'outside the box' thinking [/quote] All credit to Sporky of the other forum. My thinking is quite often 'in a sealed plastic bag'

It's been a good morning so far. Through the post came the mini stacked pot, so now we have the capability for:[list] [*]Master Volume [*]Piezo / Magnetic Blend [*]Piezo Tone [*]Magnetic Tone [/list] Also, I tried out an idea put forward by a member of TheFretboard forum to get a better security on the short-threaded specialist pots I needed to get (which were only available with short thread) - using a threaded bush rather than a nut. Of course, there is no such thing as a 7mm threaded bush!!! (6mm yes, 8mm yes) so I got an old externally threaded machine head bush, bored it out a touch and threaded it to 7mm inside - works an absolute treat!:

Before I start drilling any holes, a quick check of the break angles at the nut. Does ANYONE use cocktail sticks for cocktails?

The thing I've been pondering is the bridge saddle. I'm going to be fitting an acoustic-style saddle with a piezo element underneath it - this is just a scrap 6-string acoustic saddle, but it illustrates the kind of thing: Having built a couple of acoustics in my past, I am acutely aware that the saddle intonation angle has to be accurately predetermined - it's pretty non-adjustable once the slot for it is cut. Because the intonation varies from bass to bass from a number of factors, I need to be pretty certain what this needs to be before I cut the slot. The starting point is usually "G string at 1/2mm behind scale length, bottom E at 3mm behind scale length" but I want to be more certain than that. So what I am planning is this:[list] [*]Drill the string exit holes in the headstock [*]Fit the underside headstock clamp [*]Fit the tuner block [*]String it up with a temporary loose saddle, tuned to normal pitch, fully set-up truss-rod wise, etc [*]Sort the intonation as you would with a floating bridge (like on Hofner Violin Basses) [*]Mark the position [*]Cut the saddle slot [/list] I did consider making a low profile semi-floating bridge, but I think it would detract from the clean lines.... Gosh...there's a lot of sit-and-ponder-while-sitting-on-hands time involved in this project!

Got a bit distracted with exciting stuff through the post (bone for acoustic saddle, battery clips, electrical stuff) and planning the final steps Cover should be cut tomorrow (today's tomorrow rather than yesterday's tomorow... )

Bit of progress on this. I've lengthened the chamber to allow for a bit more space between the knobs and also to allow a comfortable distance between the last knob and the jack. I've also done the cover rebate - the wider areas are to give me room to fit the magnets. After a final tidying up of the rebate shape, I will see if I can cut a nice tight-fitting cover. Probably a 'tomorrow job'

I agree with the others - lovely bit of timber...I look forward to seeing this progress

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1497793643' post='3320576'] Most of that was Japanese to me but it's good to read that the vital organs are starting to go in.... [/quote] Yes - finishing the control chamber shape and its cover means the final sanding can be done and then the finishing started. It's one of the last big steps..the remaining stuff is more routine