Andyjr1515

Thanks, folks - your positive feedback is always hugely appreciated. It hasn't been the easiest of builds, not least for the fact that probably Mick was the only one of all of us who truly knew how this needed to turn out. I have to say that with the curves and lines I'm totally sold on it. In the flesh, it's turning out to be a really beautiful design - not just striking but truly beautiful. Yup - well done, Mick

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1498551293' post='3325366'] Cracking job again Andy! [/quote] Thanks, Kert. Another one that I'll be sad to see go.

[quote name='Saved' timestamp='1498537561' post='3325285'] Very nice job. One question.How will you set up the intonation with non-saddle bridge? [/quote] Like most acoustics, it's fixed. This is why I had to string it up and do the various checks with the temporary bridge described earlier. There is a tiny, tiny chance of fine tuning by filing an angle either at the front or back of the 3mm thick saddle so that the string sits towards the front or the back of the saddle. In effective terms this gives a couple of mm adjustment, but only if you are not on the frontmost or rearmost position to start with. It's why I was so pleased and relieved that it actually intonated....

Next task is levelling and re-crowning the frets. There are dozens of ways people do this but, for what it's worth, this is how I do it: I adjust the trussrod until the neck is flat. I use the back of my levelling beam to check: I then turn the beam over and level the frets. I try not to overdo this. Here you can see the metal dust where the high spots have been taken down: Then this is basically my kit: Decent quality masking tape, a hoscoe crowning file, the wonderful micro-mesh abrasive cloths (2400, 3600, 6000, 12000) and a fret rocker just to make sure! First I mark any flattened tops of the frets with a marker pen (in this case it was the whole fret): The re-file the crown with the Hoscoe, using the marker line to tell me when I've got there: I then wrap the progressively fine grades of the micro mesh round the hoscoe to finish off the shape of the crown and polish out the scratches, ending up with a levelled, re-crowned and polished fretboard :

Thanks for the lead, Matt

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1498468986' post='3324735'] Are we going to get to hear any sound clips? Pretty please? [/quote] Once it's all finished and wired up (although as usual, with my set up - no bass rig - it will only be able to be comparative) Still loads and loads to do before then, though....

Very good progress. You are clambering up that learning curve at an impressive rate

And knock me down with a feather...... it intonates!

And so to the saddle. I used a Dremel with the precision router base and a 3mm bit: I rigged up a simple guide: The veneer strips are to ensure that the guide stays perfectly flat and level when clamped centrally onto the body: Worked fine I then drilled an angled hole, at the end of the slot for the piezo wire - hoping that I got my control cables channel in the right place all those months ago I did ...and one saddle slot cut, ready for the saddle to be shaped and tested out Which - all being well - I'll do this afternoon.

Still the finish sanding to be done all over, but it will be something like this:

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1498307562' post='3323768'] Another beautiful touch.... Love how you've modified an existing piece which didn't do the job into something that does and also looks good.... [/quote] Thanks, Mick. I should be able to smooth those side pieces later this afternoon [i]and no - it's not done yet! [/i]

In terms of operation, by the way[list] [*]first I remove the two secondary clamps that sit on top of the unit [*]thread the stings through , pulled tight and clamped with the primary clamping of the four grub screws facing the volute (hence this side needs to be clear for allen key access) [*]then bend the string ends 90 degrees forward (towards the end of the headstock) and replace the two top (secondary) clamps [*]Then trim the excess level with the clamp [/list] In practice, it's actually very simple and quick to do but seems to be also very effective. Next time I string it up, I'll take some shots

After doing a quick prototype: I chiselled out an incline for the back block and added a couple of side pieces: It will all be sanded round, smooth and flush, but will fit like this. Once it's finish-shaped, it will look like it belongs there rather than just stuck on as an afterthought :

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1498246391' post='3323435'] I thought we were going for the Pink Leopard print.. .. [/quote]

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1498245825' post='3323431'] Obviously the case will have an inset cut to shape and then lined in Leopard print fur. [/quote] Why stick at a print? I was thinking a genuine pelt might be more fitting

[quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1498245602' post='3323429'] So cool [/quote] Thanks, Mel

By the way, a few thread followers are still a bit confused to the actual shape -it is a bit Dali-ish and difficult to stand up to take shots! So while the test strings were on I took some straightforward plan and elevation shots. [b]Bearing in mind that the final sanding and rounding hasn't yet been done, one of the test strings I'm using is a bit short, the hatches are't yet located and there is a carved feature still to put on the back of the headstock! [/b] ...then this might give a better idea of the actual shape: Ref the side on shot - see what I mean about it being very slim. Hence it's very light....

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1498232771' post='3323337'] I think your best option is to get one of those squared-type cases and line it with some foam to make it suit the bass. Something like this: Then add the necessary foam to make the bass sit tight and secure. [/quote] Yes - I think you're right. I went to the local music shop today and talked through with the owner. Although he didn't have any, we came to much the same conclusion. Stunning, by the way, how many respected case suppliers don't put the internal dimensions of their cases on their web sites!

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1498164089' post='3322949'] Just looking at that photo have you thought about how that is going to fit in a hard case, or alternatively what protection it is going to need in a gig bag? [/quote] One of the tasks on the list is to go to the local stockist and see what fits and what doesn't I think the length more than the depth will be the challenge. Remembering that it is super-slim, it is actually only 80mm thick. A slim Ibanez is 70mm and my Les Paul is 110mm!! On the other hand, the severe offset makes it quite long.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1498158650' post='3322900'] I like that a lot. [/quote] Thanks, Twincam

This is how the tuner block is supported, by the way: I've only got two screws on it at the moment and it's solid as a rock (the screws just hold it in position - no side force on the screws at all) The saddle is nearly there. These are closer to the tension of the strings we'll be using and the truss rod and action have been adjusted. I reckon the saddle needs to go back one more mm. I'll try that in the morning...

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1498155344' post='3322873'] It will also let the player bend the e string further down the dusty end - if that was something you wanted to do [/quote] My mum always told me to try to keep away from the dusty end, so I wouldn't know about that....

Thanks, folks. Usually there's madness in my method, but now and again there's method in my madness....

One of the discussions Mick and I had was about fret marker dots beyond where the neck joins the top horn. I think this works quite elegantly....: It's using the smaller 3mm luminlay... Still loads to do but it's another one off the list

Still loads to do but it is starting to come together. One thing that I can now confirm is that the playing position is going to be very good The weight of the tuner block - I'm pretty sure - will swing the body to the right on the strap giving easy reach to the lower notes. The block itself sits a couple of inches clear of, but curving round the player's butt. Control positions appear to be pretty good. The drop-away built into the extended fretboard seems to work well with no feeling of 'tapping the top' while you're playing. It's light, it's slim and and it sits well. The surprise is that over the knee it's pretty damn near perfect - probably the best I've played - again, because the balance gives a slight headstock-up sit, making for very comfortable reach throughout the fretboard. Today I'm going to finalise the saddle position and level / dress the frets. For that I need to use Mick's 'special' strings. I won't photo those until the thing is fully finished