Andyjr1515

Attendance list: TheGreek Bassface 2k10 Lozz196 Sibob NickD Truckstop Gary mac Andyjr1515 (who seems to have lost the bold typeface...)

Great job. It looks fantastic and I'm sure that it sounds just as good Oh - and I say this simply because I forgot once - did you remember to solder-join and earth the shielding? I love that copper shield material....so, so much better than conductive paint in my personal opinion. Nowadays, I solder all of my earth wires to the shielding itself and let the spring washers do the job for the pots - means none of those horrible blobs of solder and trailing earth wires on the back of the pots

What's on the other side of the board, LowMoFo? It looks to me that the wide track is actually the metal baseplate rather than a specific electrical track, in which case cutting into it would be no big problem...but there might be a copper trace track on the other side. Can you take a photo?

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1489998104' post='3261258'] Oh no. He's not been caught up in real life has he?! [/quote] No - you can't get rid of me that easily.... Bit of real life, but in parallel, gearing up for head and shoulders the most ambitious project yet. Could be one bridge too far, of course Won't be cutting wood for a few weeks and still finalising the design so a bit too early to start the thread...

Also - if you used a standard surface mounted jack/jackplate, this gives you a few more mm: Generally, this gives you 6-7mm proud of the surface of the instrument so the jack will only project 26mm from the surface of the bass - that will fit won't it? As long as you go for a Switchcraft jack, it will last a LOT longer than a barrel jack. Like stated above, the hole will need to be widened for the extra width of the jack itself. I'm assuming you would need a 'stereo' version so that the power to your pre-amp is switched on and off by inserting the jack? [url="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Allparts-EP-0155-000-Switchcraft-Input-Stereo/dp/B000NZVWVI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489914248&sr=8-2&keywords=switchcraft+stereo+socket"]If so, it's one of these you need[/url]

The piccolo bass I've just finished for our band's bassist: Wood for headplate and trussrod cover taken from offcut of body top wood. 26" - 25" variable scale; tuned one octave higher than standard bass. Mahogany back, black walnut top and head, maple neck with mahogany splice, snakewood fretboard Oh...and do I get a prize for linking the cutout of the headstock to the neck and a matching control chamber plate too?

Sounds like it's all slotting into place, James Andy

Yes - looking very good

[quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1489533006' post='3257787'] Cheers Andy. It has been pretty fast so far - I've faffed around a lot less with the design this time!! I've also had practice on previous builds making templates so that has been much quicker this time too. I'm not sure how long but I'd guess I've probably spent a day actually building so far. I'll try to keep a track of material costs as well for this one out of interest. Won't be a true cost as such as I'm using some off cuts I already have but here's an approximation so far: Sapele wood for body £20 Truss rod £10 Tuners £6 Bridge £7 Neck wood £0 (offcuts) Central block on body £0 (rejected from another project) Fretboard £0 (recycled) Spalted beech £0 (offcut - I paid £15 for the piece this came from which also made the top in the previous post) Wenge veneer £4 (cut from a larger piece bought for £16) EMG pickup £5 (from bargain bin in local guitar shop) Nut £4 Still need a few bits of hardware like pots, strap buttons and fret wire. Haven't decided on the finish for this yet. [/quote] Wow! That's quick! ...and cheap (in a very good way )

[quote name='Chris Sharman' timestamp='1489526854' post='3257722'] Ah haa! Midlands bass bash eh? Count me in for that. May bring a couple of basses down with me including the new one (courtesy of Jon Shuker, the London Bass Guitar Show, and a spectacular lack of self control). May also be able to encourage the wonderful Mrs S to flex her baking muscles again... [/quote] Great news - on all counts

By the way, [url="https://soundcloud.com/andy-rogers-6/piccolo-bass-sound-comparisons"]there are some sound clips here, matched against my gigging 6-string electric on neck pickup[/url]. The six string has SD P-rails fitted and is in humbucker mode on this recording. It's a subtle difference but in real life a significant one...

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1489502898' post='3257476'] Looks great! I'm not sure if this question has already been asked, but... What is Pete planning to do with a Piccolo bass? [/quote] Thanks, Bryan Primarily, Pete wants it to be able to 'noodle on the sofa' and practice, work out new riffs, etc, without risking concussing family or friends with a flailing 34" neck and headstock Having now heard what it sounds like, I think it actually has gigging potential. He will get his sticky mitts on it for the first time this evening so I'll see what he thinks. At the moment I haven't fitted the straplocks because, unless he wants to gig it, there is no point in adding an extra lump of bling on the end of the top horn. I have to say, it is a delight to handle. If ever there was a bass that would encourage you to play more, it must be this one!

Excellent to see another one of you builds, Jez Great concept and I just love that shape. In elepsed time, how long so far to the stage you've got to? It looks fast work to me

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1489476930' post='3257163'] Another quality bass. Getting a bit good at this Andy [/quote] Thanks, Kert

Thanks, folks - you are all too kind

The best finish, in my personal view, is also one of the easiest - Tru-oil slurry and buff. This is my preferred finish on my own instruments as well as those I build for other people. The neck ends up SILKY smooth, keeps the dirt out, still feels like wood. What's not to like Nic's (gelfin) Moradian neck was done like that: The piccolo bass I've just finished also done like that: It's well documented in various places, but basically:[list] [*]Apply a decent coat of the tru-oil with a rag and let it dry at least overnight [*]Lightly sand and add another coat - leave that overnight to dry too [*]With some 600-800 wet and dry, use it wetted with tru-oil and create a fine slurry as you work up the neck (wear latex gloves - it's messy!). Wipe off the slurry after just a few minutes with a mircofibre or similar lint-free cloth. [*]Repeat after a couple of hours [*]And again [*]Then do the same with 800 grit, but this time, wipe off the wet slurry with one cloth and with a dry, unused cloth, immediately buff vigorously. You should get a satin smooth surface almost immediately. It will be a little tacky to touch for an hour or so but will dry to a very decent protective surface [*]You might want to repeat for an even smoother satin finish, but it will be usable after one [*]After an overnight, once it is fully dry, give it a final buff up with a clean cloth [/list] So - a couple of days and can all be done in the spare room! Personally, I do the same for my fretboards (and certainly for the all in one maple ones) and it's the same process for a satin finish on a body wood if that's the sort of thing that appeals. You just have to FEEL this silky smoothness to understand just how good this technique is. There has been no other finish on this walnut, mahogany, maple or snakewood than what I have described above:

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1489420311' post='3256760'] Lovely work again Andy. Was there meant to be a Swift in the truss rod cover? [/quote] No - I thought it might be one bling too far

OK - brass nut cut and installed and arty-farty pictures taken so I now pronounce this project finished! Please forgive the self-indulgence :

[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1489398414' post='3256509'] That looks very tasty indeed [/quote] Thanks, Bastav. Much appreciated

[quote name='stearstree1304' timestamp='1489396940' post='3256497'] Absolutely top notch build. Lovely looking instrument. Its new owner will be chuffed to bits to receive that!! [/quote] Thanks . I will be passing it across to him next week

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1489332143' post='3256081'] Fixed.. [/quote] Of course...what else?

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1489333034' post='3256091'] Best build yet, Andy - truly magnificent. [/quote] Thanks, Paul. I have to say I well chuffed with it

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1489331082' post='3256073'] Love the shots of the rear....the gold hardware certainly complements the colour of the timber. Pete must be feeling tortured watching this thread.. [/quote] He doesn't follow the threads, so I can say whatever I like about him

I'll do the arty farty shots when the brass nut has arrived and I've decided which strings I like best (at the moment I've got 2 jazz flatwounds and two acoustic bronzes on ), but it's pretty much done. Here are a few shots:

I agree with Harry. The ones I've bought or worked on have been superb value for money and perfect for selective modding.