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Andyjr1515

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Everything posted by Andyjr1515

  1. [quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1487855491' post='3243556'] Cool! Looking good, Andy [/quote] Thanks, Bryan!
  2. [quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1487783925' post='3242883'] Good thinking - reduces weight (probably won't matter too much on this though) and the profile makes it easier to play - no jamming in the ribs (good album title?). Looking good... [/quote] Yes - and thanks My other thought, which was actually where I started in my thinking, is to do a proper top binding on it, and with the curvy/ comfortable back. Now I can actually pick the thing up, it makes it easier to visualise...
  3. With everything internal routed, I stained the inside of the 'f' hole chamber and glued it all up. Then a quick wizz round with a top-bearing trimmer using the walnut top as the template, and then finish off the last bit with a bottom bearing trimmer bit with the bass the other way up. It looks deceptively complete at this stage... : And from the back, a similar arrangement to Nic's Mouradian, albeit this will be left natural mahogany: Note that the mahogany is at the moment deeper than the neck. I'm probably going to go for a scoop at the back and curve at the top as Mick's 'Silk' bass or my bubinga fretless: There's a lot of carving to do!
  4. [quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1487693938' post='3241906'] Visitors interrupting a man's bass build!!?? How dare they!! Have they got no manners?? [/quote] I know! Truly shocking
  5. Got visitors over the next few days so I've tried to make some decent progress while I can. Basically I've done all of the machining I need to do before gluing the wings and top onto the neck: As you can see, the control chamber and cable run to it from the pickup position; the pickup cutout in the walnut top, the 'semi' chamber under the teardrop f-hole; the truss-rod slot. Final thing I have to do before anything gets glued is cut the neck plan-view shape. I'll do that once I've checked the positioning of everything...again....!
  6. Sounds a very good way of making sure. I'll bear that method in mind in case I ever get asked to do one...
  7. Now we're talking! Excellent - it's come out pretty well! I like the colour - much more defined than I think I expected. And, presumably, if your nails get too long you can file them down during the gig? Seriously, though - well done! That was a bigger challenge than I would normally want to take on and it's worked. How 'stuck' is the glitter?
  8. [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1487594559' post='3240982'] Ahhhhh gosh yeah, was getting all mixed up with fret spacing. Mea culpa! Don't panic! LOL What threw me was the board looks wider on the right so I'd imagined that was the body end! [/quote] Actually, it's a poor photo - the wide angle lens has made the left hand side look narrower - it's actually a rectangle at the moment. I've tried a fret at the far end where I've got a bit of spare and it took it very well (I thought with it being so hard, it might have been brittle...) . Radiusing it is going to be a joy, though
  9. [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1487582255' post='3240812'] This is going to be a lefty? [/quote] I hope not! What have you seen that I haven't?
  10. [quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1487524267' post='3240445'] And if it ain't right.... Lined fretless anyone? [/quote] Ah...but first I turn it round and do it better on the other side. And if that isn't right, then the mosaic look, then the....
  11. Well, with the normal warning that these threads are always simply about how I personally go about things and never that this is the way you [i]should[/i] go about things, I'm into totally new territory: multi-scale and hand-cut fret slots First thing I did was get everything out into good light! I then clamped a ruler to the fretboard to the workbench, at the angle that the strings will run at and starting at the angled nut position: Then a double-check, triple-check, quadruple-check measure against the treble scale and a sharp tap with a hardened metal point: Then ditto for the bass string run. Then clamping with a squared piece of wood, that has been cut at a height to allow 3mm blade exposure, using the saw's blade clamp strip to prevent the blade to cut too deep: Then gentle sawing against the wood block until the slot was formed, then hard sawing to depth. And yes, blablas, you were right...this is my exercise for the week sorted! And, if I've got everything correct...this should be a 26" to 25" fanned set of slots!: Only time will tell...
  12. [quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1487436781' post='3239818'] ... or even some of my boring ones.... [/quote] Yours are ALWAYS interesting, Paul
  13. [quote name='Matt P' timestamp='1487432146' post='3239775'] i'm loving this build, the more i see of your work the more i want to commission a build from you. This body shape is rather nice as well, can imagine it as a 5 string 34" bass, if i ever have some money for another bass i think you might get an email! Matt [/quote] Always happy to talk through interesting projects
  14. [quote name='blablas' timestamp='1487432789' post='3239782'] Your fingerboard looks almost like it came from the same piece of rough lumber as mine did a few years back. Cutting fret slots in snakewood is a tough job, it's seriously hard (harder than ebony!), when I cut the slots in my board the saw tended to clog up, minimized it a bit by putting candle-wax on the saw. The block method you mention is how I always cut my fret slots. [/quote] Very useful tip - thanks, blablas
  15. Fretboard has now been trimmed and squared up ready to hand-cut the slots: Because it is multi-scale, some of the frets will be angles. As such, I will just use a perpendicular block as a blade guide, clamped to the fretboard and bench and a fine-bladed japanese pull-saw. It will take a lot longer and much more care than using a fret-cutting jig, but jigs are generally not capable of cutting angles. The snakewood is a good few inches longer than I need, so I'll be doing a few trial cuts first to make sure the method is going to work OK.
  16. I ran the mahogany sections through the thicknesser to get rid of the saw chatter and then cut the sections, slightly oversize: With these kinds of top, I usually use the top as the routing template for the mahogany sections underneath once they are glued up and in place The next task is probably the fretboard. I build these things slightly unconventionally and will be cutting a notch in the neck so the wings and body section of the neck become the flat surface for the top to be glued onto. However, the notch will be angled slightly to accommodate the neck angle, and the neck angle needed depends on the height of the fretted fretboard... One of these days I will build conventionally...I'm sure it must be more straightforward...
  17. Another yes here. If you remember at all 'Toms African Build', the body wood was so thin there wasn't any room for pots so the pickup's directly wired to the jack. It sounds great.
  18. [quote name='Dazed' timestamp='1487369952' post='3239433'] Oh I don't know, Rob Allen, Rick Turner, Bolin and a few others have all done ok with piezos. [/quote] At bass pitch, I may well be quite incorrect (not an unusual situation ). However, this will be tuned at guitar pitch. I have three 6 string electrics with piezos - two with ghost systems and one an acoustic shadow system, and all three are limited on piezo only. I found the same with a Carvin hybrid semi acoustic I had for a while. On the other hand, adding the piezo blended with the other pickups is great. This piccolo is probably a bit small to try to fit both into. I'm probably wrong here too....
  19. [quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1487355979' post='3239306'] Exciting stuff. Would a piezo work on a bass like this? [/quote] I did consider it...but in the end, I'm just not convinced about piezos in their present stage of development. Mixed with a magnetic pickup they are stupendous but, and maybe this is just me, by themselves they always seem just a tad disappointing. Am I the only one who thinks that?
  20. [quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1487356236' post='3239311'] The position of the 'hidden' jack socket is just inspired. Well done. Chris Squire would have gladly played this one. [/quote] Thanks, sblueplanet. Means a lot
  21. [quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1487327593' post='3238948'] Looks fantastic. Congratulations, Andy for another superb example of your craftmanship, and Nic for getting the bass you've always wanted! Glad its met your expectations otherwise i may have felt a little responsible [/quote] Thanks, Kert ...and yes, we both blame you
  22. [quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1487262889' post='3238486'] Cheers Andy. We'll see what's happening nearer the time. [/quote] No probs - I'll save you a seat just in case
  23. Got some time yesterday evening and this afternoon to start the build proper. The neck wood arrived from David Dyke - some wonderfully grained plain maple and a centre mahogany splice. Before I cut that, I needed to work out where the body was going to sit in relation to the neck. I've firmed up on a 26" to 25" multi-scale at 24 frets. This is basically how it will fit: I will make one adjustment - this version has the 'vertical' fret at the 12th fret and this makes the angle at the nut quite marked. Because I have plenty of space at the bridge end (Black Dog individual bridges) I will probably bias the steeper angles towards the bridge and have the angle at the nut less acute. Having worked out the basic positions, I was able to cut the side profiles of the neck splices. Here are basically the components: ...and it's NEVER too early to do a mock-up! Now that's what I call wings! I'm sure Pete will get used to them! The ebony faceplate was just because I had it there handy. I haven't decided out yet whether I go faceplate or not, and if so, what wood. I'll see what it looks like when the fretboard and neck have been slimmed, etc..
  24. [quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1484808912' post='3218556'] Noted. Please give me an update when you can confirm? [/quote] Hi Only just caught up with the thread. I'll probably be taking Neil (Len_Derby) and between us we'll have a decent number of basses but there still should be a seat left if Dave_the_bass can't make it
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