Andyjr1515

Sounds great @ped! Excellent band to use for the track too

Sorry - it's me being an idiot I was flicking through the posts on the tablet and thought your post was @Mylkinut's so I thought we were looking at a picture of your own bass!!!! Yes - the distance behind the bridge screw holes is still irrelevant and can be misleading. Go for the 35" to the screw centres - that will put the bridge in the correct place (as long as it's a Fender standard bridge).

Just a post-script...not sure what you mean here. The channel leading to the bridge earth wire hole is where the bare wire sits to make electrical contact with the bridge while still allowing it to sit flat on the bass top. The holes at the back are the bridge screw holes.

The critical measurement is from fretboard face of the nut to the bridge and, according to the excellent Stewmac Fret Calculator, that is 35" to the centres of the rear fixing screws of a standard Fender bridge for a 34" scale bass - so yours is spot on. The distance from the holes to the tail is irrelevant in terms of the strings, tuning and intonation.

Yes - great venue. Spot on!

Yes - you're right! Blimey, that is a long time ago!

Yes - Bicarb for your burps; baking powder for your nut; Tineafax for your nuts

I think maybe you ought to repeat that a few times!

And then repeated it three times! Apols it didn't seem to have posted... Admins - feel free to delete the duplicate posts!!!

This is the bit where Andyjr1515 is telling everybody that to raise a nut slot, you can pop some bicarb into the slot and add a drop of CA.... What Andyjr1515 MEANT to say was, "To raise a nut slot, you can pop a small amount of BAKING POWDER into the slot, then add a teeny drop of thin CA and it will set solid, allowing you to then recut down to the desired depth." Apologies if anyone rushed home, used bicarb instead of baking powder and then saw their bass reach a greater height than Elon Musk's latest rocket launch 🚀

Pretty sure that will have been @Marillionred's beautiful 5 string Thumb. We compared my 4 string SWAPAAWTBWADS (same woods and proportions as a warwick thumb but, wisely, a different shape) side by side with it too

Yup - back too. Great to meet up with the folks I already know and the folks I've not met before Many thanks to Peter and Richard - and anyone else I may have missed - for organising and running. Great venue!!! Perfect. Thanks also to listening to my ramblings about bass set up...and apologies to anyone whose bass I tweaked and when they got it home and tried it exclaimed 'W*F????' I realised when I got back that I hadn't taken ANY photos. Hopefully, some folks did - and there should be the group photo shortly too

Looking absolutely splendid!

Yup - spot on an all counts

A modern two-way without a sleeve at the adjuster end* is my recommendation. I get mine from Tonetech. They do a number of lengths, but this is an example: https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/english/truss-rod-2-way-adjustable-bass.html If your centre splice is 6mm wide and set at the correct depth, then there should be very little fettling needed with the slot. Assuming a headstock adjustment, choose your length (from the nut) to where the neck isn't going to bend (ie where it thickens at the heel in the case of a through neck, or from the start of the neck pocket in the case of a bolt-on) + 30mm or so. Exact doesn't matter as long as the end is anchored in the area that isn't going to bend. By the way, two way truss rods are very often photographed upside down on commercial sites. When fitting, the steel strip goes on the top, flush with the top of the fretboard, with the adjuster therefore deeper in the slot. *The reason I don't like the ones with the sleeves around the adjuster, such as the ones that (decent supplier) Northwest Guitars supply, is that the sleeve adds quite a bit of extra width that then needs chiselling out at the nut end. If you do a cross section drawing of the neck at the nut end, you realise just how little timber there is left holding the headstock on (one of the reasons for the scandalously common head breaks on the earlier Gibson Les Paul's) - so every mm there counts!

I don't know, but I suspect that... And, if so, who can blame them - it is a very good design that works beautifully.

I quite liked the blue...but that green is gorgeous!

You can do. Then again, you will get glue squeeze out which will need to be fully cleared, and there maybe slight misalignment that would also need to be cleaned up so it's debateable whether it saves much time or effort.

Two strips joined would be fine. Orientating them so that any direction of end grain is broadly mirrored will help to eliminate warping.

I've never made an oak neck, but I've used oak in a number of builds. The oak I've used (English Oak) has been actually quite nice to work with. Yes - tough, but pretty cooperative with all standard hand and power tools. It has a reputation for being heavyweight, but the lightest full scale 2xhumbucker electric guitar I've ever made (5 1/2lbs) has an oak back:

There's still a lot of it about. Well done for thinking about doing a test. Look after yourself, Frank

Not a criticism on Sandberg because at least they have configuration options...but it is fairly basic. It only lets you choose the colour for hardware. So the Ida Nielsen base model V in the configurator does have the drop (you can see the lever below - but the only option for hardware you can change in the configurator is the colour): ...but many/most/all other base model V's don't have the drop (and, again, the configurator only lets you choose the hardware colour)

Hmmm....I was looking at this: I'm sure this is Hipshot and it is rivetted. Is the BT3 reverse or reversible (most of the more expensive Hipshots are)? And if the former, then I may have got the number wrong but almost certainly they will then do a non-reverse. But, on the other hand, the stock Thomann pic seems to have a different one. Pretty sure it's still Hipshot, but agreed, it's not the same rivetted plate:

Hi @Aidan63 From the photos, I'm pretty sure that I can see the Hipshot stamp on it - it looks like a 20300G Gold Hipshot BT3 to me, although it would be worth you double checking with Sandberg themselves.

Excellent stuff. Yes - moving those poles down will lower the volumes for it to balance nicely