Andyjr1515

There's a fairly comprehensive installation guide on the East web site.

Just to avoid confusion - in the context of guitars and basses, 'active' means 'powered'. So to clarify, the pickup circuitry on the SuperQuad toggle switches is not active, it is fully passive. The only thing that is powered are the LEDs in the pickup. So yes, you can disconnect the battery and all three tones for both pickups will be unaffected (assuming that you don't have any other powered circuitry anywhere else )

None at all. They are totally passive pickups so it is no different to adding a powered EQ to a standard Jazz Bass

Ah OK - so it has a front rout and standard Jazz metal controls plate in addition to a rear rout for the two super-quad switches? If so, then by far the simplest is to use the fitted battery on the J-retro plate assembly. At the end of the day, it is presumably only 3 screws to lift out the whole assembly to replace the battery (which often last over a year as long as you remember to pull the jack lead out when not in use)

I can give a view on most of your queries, but I'm a bit confused here, @Beedster First of all, which model of Enfield do you have? And do you mean you want to fit the John East preamp with the same spec as fitted in the J-retro products into the existing rear chamber? Or are you planning to use a top-loaded J-retro with its plate and all? I'm assuming you are looking at the former option - which is fairly straightforward. The latter is more difficult and more extreme, with no sonic advantage. John East is very responsive to enquiries and will be able to tell you if that particular pre-amp spec is available as a separate unit to fit in the existing chamber. He will also be able to tell you how big it is from which you can work out if you can fit it, and a second battery*, into the chamber, removing some of the excess wood to make room but leaving of the magnets in place so that your back hatch is unaffected. Ref your original query, for what it's worth these are my thoughts: - *While I'm pretty sure that one battery would run both the two sets of SIMs LED's and a pre-amp, personally I would generally fit two batteries. This is because a flat LED battery in the middle of a number in a gig means the LED lights go out...but a flat pre-amp battery means the bass goes quiet! Or worse - before it goes quiet, they usually start squelching and squeaking as the pre-amp utters it's dying cries. Been there, done that! That said, if as with the Lionheart, you fit a push pull to the volume to switch between passive and active EQ, then at least you will be able to keep on playing - but it will still be a problem because it will probably still squeak and squelch until you realise what's happening and, in any case, switching to passive your amp volume will not be set right. - the SIMS Super Quads are totally passive. The circuit boards on the toggle switches simply add mini resistors and the like into the circuit for certain of the combinations to balance the resistance and avoid the usual volume jumps and drops when changing between the three permutations of the four coils. It's VERY clever stuff, but (or because) it is totally passive. - the preamp simply takes the passive signal and boosts or modifies it through the powered EQ. So yes, @Owen is quite right that you could simply buy an EQ pedal to achieve the same thing unless you want to adjust on-the-fly.

I'll be bringing: my SWAAPATWTBWADS* Bubinga Fretless, probably Pete's Swift lightweight piccolo build and maybe also his (not lightweight) EB-3 tribute build *Same Woods And Proportions As A Warwick Thumb But, Wisely, A Different Shape

Really good video and interesting stuff

The more I look at this, the more I think it's going to be an absolute beauty! There are some splendid details - the exposure of the core wood at the cutaways and sides, the join of volute and back headstock plate, the fretboard (generally) and inlays (specifically) to name but three. And the soft curve of the body carve to add a fourth. Once the finish is on it is going to be spectacular.

Lovely!

It's no problem if they've worked OK but, in addition to the issue that @Jabba_the_gut raises there are two other advantages: - they are quite thin and lightweight and they can crack open with the force of the allen key, especially when they are cutting a thread through something like rock maple (which often they are) - it is easier to keep them straight. You keep the position of the bolt with fingertip of one hand on the top and do all the heft with the spanner with your other hand. So, it's not a crime, but it has advantages

I've thrown my hat in the ring for this - but it is on fairly long leadtimes. If anyone's itching to sort it sooner, then I'm sure @PaulThePlug would be happy with that. I would be happy to finish the top with a veneer whether or not I do the fill and rout too

Top job. This is getting into 'Master Craftsman' territory

I'm pretty sure Hipshots will be Imperial threads, not Metric. The guitar saddles are 4-40 UNC (ie, 40 threads to an inch): https://hipshot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360027039471-What-size-hex-wrench-Allen-key-do-I-need-to-adjust-the-height-on-a-Fixed-Bridge- Can't be sure whether the bass saddles will be the same size but, as they are made in USA, they are almost certain to be imperial threads too. A quick question to the Hipshot zendesk would confirm.

Love the look of that

Loving it

Wow - that's special!

But back to @Stub Mandrel's topic. The first bass I bought myself was this lovely red Ibanez I bought for a song from a guy in Gloucester: And my first pimp-yer-bass attempt was on this one and was also my first attempt at veneering. Admittedly, beginners' luck! And it was this that led to me having a go at all the other stuff As a post-script, I eventually sold this to a Nepalese Buddhist who played in a Heavy Metal band in Luton and who was 'spiritually drawn' to the bass. A niche market, admittedly

Hmmm....consider that design stolen

It was when @TheGreek told me he also wanted the cross-section to be like the cross section of a contact-lens that I thought 'WTfffffff?????' I think we got close on that too. And it was an inspirational request from @TheGreek ...

Great, great choice, @funkle - @Chopthebass's builds are consistently superb...and he has a special Wal interest too

Almost certainly will be fine - and on the strap, absolutely.

Worth dropping a note in the 'Repairs and Technical' section. There are probably metal hobbyists amongst us as there are wood hobbyists like me - and they may well be happy to knock one up for the cost of a pint!

Here's a pic of the components: For your needs, then the main slider would want to be much shorter (on the Gibson, the pull tab is behind the raised bridge with the slide plate under the bridge - for a Fender, you would want it the other way round and in front of the bridge)...but the basic idea of the mechanism would be the same

Found it! It's the Gibson one - fitted to EB-0's and the like. Very simple mechanism - pull the tab and it applies the mute and push it back, the two springs return the mute back off the strings. I would have thought someone with a basic metal workshop could knock one up of a similar principle that would fit under your cover?