Andyjr1515

With a couple of spare strings in place to line up with, this is probably where I will position the two pickups. The 'musicman' isn't actually a musicman - it's a much hotter passive lookalike. The Model One is also very hot and very bassy. As such, I've placed the bridge pickup around 1cm or so closer to the bridge than a Stingray or Sterling. They should give a usable spread of tones between the two pickups and in the middle position, especially as they will be wired to go series / parallel and split for each pickup as well as individual volume and passive tone controls.

Decent bit of progress this morning. The bridge has been positioned and fixing screw holes drilled: The neck/body transition is pretty much there: ...and the control chamber has been routed to finished depth: Now the bridge is in position, I can pop a couple of spare strings on loosely to line up the positions for the pickups

That's a GREAT bass to help you get you back into it

[quote name='uzzell' timestamp='1482954419' post='3203757'] Absolutely loving watching your work come along. Out of interest, do you think it would be possible to retrofit an existing neck with these luminlay side dots? [/quote] Hi uzzell Yes - it is relatively straightforward. Exactly how straightforward depends on the thickness of the fretboard and the size and position of the existing dots, if any, and also the existing finish. Nevertheless, in most cases it is eminently achievable.

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1482867946' post='3203220'] I wish that tactic worked on my wife. There again the quantity of alcohol consumed to get to that point would probably mean the use of power tools is unwise to say the least. Tomorrow I'm going to make some sawdust! [/quote] Nic gave me his preferred control layout. There will be also two micro switches but I will finally position those later on. I usually drill the main pot and switch holes before I hog out and rout the chamber: Also managed to hog out the bulk of the chamber before the first set of 'post-Christmas visitors' descended: The template and final rout of the chamber will have to wait until tomorrow

Well, my tactic of sitting for four days, drink in hand, grinning inebriatedly and inanely at Mrs Andyjr1515 finally worked. "Why don't you just go back into the cellar and go back to make lots of noise and dust! ANYTHING would be better than seeing your stupid face gawping everywhere!!!" The luminlay side dots are in. There are cheaper alternatives (and it's a bit of a bind having to order direct from Japan), but the ease of fitment with the neat outer sheath and easy, chip-free sawing makes such a difference. Basically, it's drill the hole; drop of cyano; press the stick in; cut flush: The are neat and great both in daylight and in the dark. Here they are fitted - I've gone for the 5mm ones up to the body join: ...and 3mm where the fretboard is flat against the body top: That's another job crossed off the 'to-do' list

I think it boils down to what you prefer. From a feasibility point of view they are both OK options. Yes, you have a major crack but structurally that would be possible to fix...and there are no structurally critical areas impacted as far as I can see. So yes, more than possible to make that physically sound and then veneer over it to get the forward facing aesthetics looking OK. Successfully removing a set neck and building a new body from scratch is a much bigger job, but also feasible....

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1482571954' post='3201481'] The donor bass has arrived! Pics to follow...... [/quote] Excellent! Mmmmm....although white oak is better than some oaks, I personally would stay well, well clear. In my own experience oak for guitar building varies between 'very challenging' to 'f*****g unusable!' Ref veneers, I can give you some hints and tips along the way on using those if you end up going that direction

[quote name='The-Ox' timestamp='1482526902' post='3201339'] haha, no worries [/quote] Just sent

[quote name='The-Ox' timestamp='1482509438' post='3201203'] brilliant work again Andy! [/quote] Thanks! Haven't forgotten I owe you a PM

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1482414319' post='3200325'] You could make the f-hole opening in the shape of a large swift like on your headstocks that would look cool. I have an Alvarez mini travel bass which i think is 27" scale. It is fitted with black tapewound strings. Bottom E response is questionable but overall it's a very playable little instrument. [/quote] Great minds think alike....I actually did cut out a swift shape too at the time, but actually, the teardrop looked better Thanks for the additional info too

Although physically nothing is likely to happen to this until Nic's Mouradian-style has got to the painting and varnishing stage, I have been pondering and researching and asking about and am now close to crystallising a few more of the thoughts. I checked the relative pitches of bass, baritone and 6 string electric and, as many of you will already know, electric guitar is one octave higher than bass guitar and baritone guitar is tuned differently and pitched somewhere between the two. Therefore, if I get it wrong, at c 25" scale, my piccolo bass will be a....well...guitar! Also found out that, with the bottom four strings of a five string set, you can achieve standard bass tuning with acceptable string tension with a c 25" scale instrument. And so I asked Pete. Did he want a very short bass, or a .... four string guitar? And it's the latter. I now know a bit better where I'm heading. And I'm thinking: - definitely fanned frets...trying to extend the scale of the low end - follow BigRedX's thoughts on string choice - heavy end of the guitar string gauges, wound G - maybe even flat wounds? - investigate the thoughts of pickup...on that scale and to get that bass 'mojo', will piezo cut the mustard better than coil pickups? Mmmm.....more pondering and research coming up while I peel the sprouts.....

I very much look forward to seeing this develop

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1482261025' post='3199058'] Coming along... ...swiftly Seriously though it's beautiful, in an unusual way. And it's progressing well. Thanks for taking the time to share! [/quote] I've heard worse! ..and thanks - very much appreciated

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1482254273' post='3198948'] Has one of the Swifts flown away?? [/quote] No - there were always just two on the fretboard. There are another three on the headstock (and one on the truss rod cover). That's enough swifts...even for me

I've covered the way I do frets in previous threads. In brief: I file a small relief at the edge of the slots with a triangular needle file: I run a small bead of titebond along the tang. Note the fret wire I buy comes coiled, so I don't have to pre-bend: With the back supported, I hammer one side, then the other, then the middle. The squeeze out gives me a good indication that it's properly seated. Every two or three frets hammered in, I 'walk' the radius block up the neck and clamp while the glue sets: Where the frets are next to the body, I roughly pre-finish the ends to minimise the amount of bevelling: Note the dampness where I've wiped off the titebond squeeze-out so it doesn't stain the fretboard. And with a few ends still to trim once the glue has dried sufficiently, done

[quote name='Fabrocker' timestamp='1482235121' post='3198642'] Awesome job! For the Chris Squire! [/quote] Thanks Not a huge amount to show, but two more important items crossed off the list. First the final flattening and radiusing of the fretboard before the frets go on. Now THAT'S what I call a levelling beam : I'm trying to replicate the general feel of Nic's erstwhile Ric as far as possible. That had quite a tight radius of 10". This gets the fretboard end very close and personal to the top, which was another preference of Nic's: It's that much tighter than a 'standard' bass that the fret slots will need deepening! Once I've done that, I can install the frets. The other important progress step is that the Model One has arrived. It's going to look beefy!:

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1482183862' post='3198330'] Luckily, MrsAndyjr1515 knows that the best Christmas present I can be given is being permission to spend another hour in the cellar workshop [/quote] ...and that would be a bit of Christmas present for MrsAndyjr1515 too

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1482182643' post='3198318'] I think a break for Christmas is perfectly justified Andy. [/quote] Luckily, MrsAndyjr1515 knows that the best Christmas present I can be given is being permission to spend another hour in the cellar workshop

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1482170007' post='3198204'] What! No update today?? I'm having withdrawals and it's not even my bass... [/quote] I was doing a 'basschat helping other basschat members' stint today, helping to bring a lovely early 70's Precision back to life The DiMarzio Model One should arrive tomorrow, so there might be a bit more progress before MrsAndyjr1515 insists that I take the rapidly approaching festivity preparations seriously

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1482143043' post='3197893'] Do try the bass first. Despite having the same scale, some basses feel like they have a very long neck compared to others, which is just due to where the neck meets the body and bridge placement [/quote] Very much this ^ Try a few 34" basses where the bridge is set well back...a Cort Curbow is a perfect example (and maybe a perfect bass for you). Although being, and sounding, full scale, the nut is inches closer to you than many other basses...

That's going to look splendid, Kert. I suspect it will take a load of clear to get anywhere near covering the flake but the more that goes on, the better the effect will be

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1482074000' post='3197392'] Neat! [/quote] Thanks, ezbass. Nic's concept, to be honest, but happy to take the plaudits Obviously, there's some tidying up of the curves and edges, but it will look quite good when it's finished

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1482066393' post='3197304'] My old Peavey P bass copy is plywood and it is why I was eventually convinced that the wood of the body does not affect the tone much (hardly at all). The Peavey has a great necl and I was gong to build a new body but I might try this instead. [/quote] That Epiphone Junior turned out to be plywood. One of the best sounding guitars I'd ever had.... Other than the tendency for it to be a bit heavy, structurally there is nothing wrong with plywood at all

Last job off the list for today - sorting the jack/Tx socket and deepening the open-backed chamber. A bit scary, this one If you remember, Nic wanted it hidden from the front but open and fully accessible at the back. With lots of lateral support, I used a couple of forstners to drill the holes for the tele-type jack holder: Then deepened the chamber with a router, roughing out with a guide-ring and then finishing with a roller-guided edge trimmer. From the front it looks like this: From the back it looks like this: and from the end it looks like this: And if the battery goes, just pull it out and plug in a standard jack