Andyjr1515

Well, it was a delight to have this lovely bass lodge with us for a while, but all things come to an end and now it needs to journey back home. Here it is, all done and ready to return: Will be sad to see this one leave....

That looks good Scalpels are better than Stanley knives for this type of thing but it can be a right PITA all the same. The end result is very effective, though

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1480353555' post='3183635'] I was showing a bass playing friend of mine through Andy's build today - he was extremely impressed. Hoping that he doesn't put in a build request before I sell my Ritter and place another order. Keep up the great work Andy. [/quote] Thanks, Mick

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1480345444' post='3183548'] Ahhh, now I understand. ... Thats a neat solution Andy. [/quote] Nic's inspiration It might be just too hard and too tight dimensionally, but I'm going to see on my test piece if it's possible to rout in the middle of the joined pieces so the unit is actually hidden from obvious view front and back rather than hidden from the front but fully visible from the back. It might be just too tight but worth one more experiment . Whatever, we have a workable solution

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1480283753' post='3183125'] Have checked the sizes and pretty sure your preferred solution is going to work, Nic. I'll see if I can get the mockup finished tomorrow [/quote] Yup - it works just fine. The real thing will be neater but looking from the front of the bass: ...and from the back: and from the rear (the real one will be straight!)

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1480260395' post='3182853'] I still have to find a way of getting the cover back on (and I've got a few tidying jobs left before this will be returned to Stuart) but[b] we now have sound[/b]. In fact, to be precise, we have a zillion - no, maybe TWO zillion - sounds. While I have no idea what controls do what, it does appear that everything is working [/quote] I found a schematic of what each of the controls do and can confirm it all works correctly Even through my inadequate rig, the variety of different sounds is staggering. With the preamp on and varitone on position 6, think Entwistle at his best... Still got to work out how to get the cover on without squashing anything and a bit of tidying up, but it's almost done. I'll post some shots once it's been polished and got the knobs back on

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1480278608' post='3183069'] Another reason for not having the Smoothhound fully enclosed is that I often swap basses so it would be a bit difficult. Also I want to be able to to use a conventional cable. I case of battery issues etc. [/quote] Have checked the sizes and pretty sure your preferred solution is going to work, Nic. I'll see if I can get the mockup finished tomorrow

I still have to find a way of getting the cover back on (and I've got a few tidying jobs left before this will be returned to Stuart) but[b] we now have sound[/b]. In fact, to be precise, we have a zillion - no, maybe TWO zillion - sounds. While I have no idea what controls do what, it does appear that everything is working

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1480242507' post='3182678'] That looks lovely Andy. Just remember what it USED to look like. [/quote] Ah.....good point.... ...that's made me feel better....that and the tranquillisers

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1480226307' post='3182603'] Does having the wireless TX fully enclosed in the body of the bass have any effect on the range then? [/quote] I'm not sure. As it happens, I think Nic's idea is going to work, in which case it will not be covered at the back or side. I think fully enclosed you would need to make sure there was no shielding in any of the chambers which might be an issue with some designs

Good news is that both DiMarzio's appear to be showing continuity on both coils Other good news is that I found the wiring diagram on the Neal Moser web site and I THINK I know which colour to solder to which terminal (the pre-wired loom isn't quite the same but I think I can see how it should be). So, onto the pre-wired loom. And here I always have a love/hate relationship. I love the fact that someone much more skilled and neat at soldering than me has already done the hard work: What I also like is that the brass foil its on is already in Mockingbird layout...unfortunately, though, not quite in the right positions for this particular Mockingbird What I don't like about pre-wired looms is that when you unscrew the pots and switches and lift it from its presentation card / plate (which you always seem to need to do because they are NEVER quite in the right positions for your particular instrument), it becomes the wriggling, twisting bag of spanners that represents its inner self And when you lift the wriggling assembly into the control chamber, you have to position 9 star-washers ALL AT THE SAME TIME!!!!! And then you pray to whichever deity that seems to make a difference that the screw threads are going to protrude through the top enough to at least get one twist of each of the nine nuts [b]so you don't have to lift the now dishevelled mess back out again [/b] Anyway, I've had a rest now, my pulse rate is back to as normal as post-traumatic stress disorder will allow and.... ...it's in: Not wired up yet, and that inductor pack looks a bit higher than the chamber, and the battery is going to be a bit of a squeeze but, compared to the challenge just gone, all that should be a doddle.... ...providing I don't have to take it out again

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1480193857' post='3182476'] I was thinking of something like this. Forgive poor sketching. A rout from the rear of the body (open to the rear). A Tele type socket which in this position would still be accessible for a normal jack lead. So the SmoothHound would plug in from the edge rather than the rear surface. [url="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/gelfin5959/media/SH%20position_zpsgc0nehoo.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/gelfin5959/media/SH%20p2_zpsssq7d8dn.jpg.html"][/url] [/quote] Hi, Nic My assumption was probably correct that you would want direct access, although 3below's thoughts included an easy access hatch which is an interesting idea. Following your sketch above, it can work - the Smoothhound is just about slim enough to ensure the top can retain the Mouradian tailstoch shape even though behind it it is cutaway. It would probably want to be the other way round and that then gets the jack in broadly the right place : It is quite a long unit and, as you can see, passes the centre line by a cm or so. The tail button would therefore have to sit offset from centre, but with the length of top horn you have, this is unlikely to give you any problems with the hang on the strap so in my mind isn't a big issue. I'll do a couple of mockups so we can see better which looks the least intrusive. It's very much turning into the kind of project I like best

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1480182608' post='3182366'] Winder why lol. [/quote]

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1480180042' post='3182327'] Some skilled fingerboard recess routing up ahead I know the feeling about the wimpy scroll saw and band saw. WRT the radio transmitter, could it fit into an internal recess combined with a second internal jack socket. The best way I can describe (without sorting a sketch to upload) is: Imagine a telecaster type control rout, wide and long enough for the radio transmitter. At the 'pickup switch' end of the cavity drill a blind 12mm hole for a jack socket- this is going further into the body, parallel to the body, heading towards the lower bout. Fit the jack socket to the 'blind' hole with parallel wiring to the 'regular' cable type jack socket. Cover the whole arrangement with the rear control plate. The transmitter should work through the 10~ 15 mm of front body timber, an experiment many be needed. Andy if the description makes no sense I will sketch for you. [/quote] A sketch would be great

Getting there. Prototype housing no.1 physically works but misses a detail from the aesthetics. Here it is in use (view from back of bass): Then to remove it for recharge or to put in a conventional jack, flip it up: ...and pull it out: The workings would be covered by a piece of 1/8" mahogany. The other side (imagine the jack is inset into the top rather than sitting flush as in this example): I need to do prototype 2 with the recess in the proper place but, conceptually, I reckon that might work

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1480167099' post='3182169'] He, he, he....another great build taking shape! [/quote] Thanks, White Cloud In terms of the angled approach....well, this [i]might [/i]fit....just.....

After a week of non-building distractions, I've been able to make a bit more progress this morning. I've flattened the notch and brought it down so that the top sits 1.5mm proud. This is because the neck is angled and I want the fretboard end (prob after 24th fret) to be flush with the body top rather than at where the neck meets the body. The fretboard will be set into the body wood to achieve this. By the way - a reminder. I make a lot of this stuff up as I go along. Please remember that these threads simply illustrate how I personally have tackled each of the challenges of a build...never assume that what I do is the right or best way! With the top positioned correctly with the neck, I could then mark out the bottom panels - these will actually be glued first when I get to that stage. With some nursing of my rickety cheap bandsaw, and some cursing of my new but surprisingly limited scroll saw (probably wrong blades for the job), I got both back wings cut out: This afternoon I am going to experiment with the jack options with some of the mahogany offcut. Nic has been able to borrow an early prototype of SmoothHound wireless Tx. The intention is to be able to set this into a chamber at the back, but still to be able to attach a conventional lead if required. I think, given the design and depth of the SmoothHound, there are two basic options: Straight - This is straightforward, but that is a long way into the body....particularly if you think of placing a conventional cable there. Or angled - think Stratocaster or Ibanez electrics - The depth is too great to use an actual stratocaster jackplate (in the back of the bass) at its quite steep angle, but at this angle photographed, it MIGHT fit... Hence the experiments needed. As always, thanks for looking

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1480076703' post='3181469'] I have put on two more coats of primer, and sanded both back this week. I'm thinking one more coat of Primer should do it. Then i'm going to find myself a "catch tray" and start to try and make this bass sparkly. I also have plans to make the pickguard a little more fancy. That may happen this weekend too. Enjoy your weekend people [/quote] Excellent. We're all waiting patiently:)

[quote name='roman_sub' timestamp='1479838031' post='3179708'] looks great so far! [/quote] Thanks, roman_sub

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1479827344' post='3179596'] Yes, it was the Sterling Andy and - yes, wow, it does sound great! That was the P pickup, just rolled back a touch. Gigged with it twice since picking it up last week and I really couldn't be happier. [/quote] That's excellent. Great,great depth to the sound

Nic sent the bridge with other bits and bobs which allowed me to calculate the neck angle (roundabout 1 degree). After battling for sometime with my very cheap (and on the very edge of its capabilities) bandsaw, got the neck rough-cut in side profile: The headstock will clearly be cut down, but at the moment, the far end is absolutely parallel to the top of the neck - useful as a datum I will be cutting the bottom wings and attaching them to the neck before gluing the top on, but this is broadly where the top fits:

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1479824738' post='3179569'] A camera video of 'Bed of Roses' from my new band 'Just Jovi's first gig the other night. Sound is a bit harsh but you get the idea! [url="https://www.facebook.com/739111803/videos/10154730018291804/"]https://www.facebook.com/739111803/videos/10154730018291804/[/url] [/quote] Was that the Sterling 5, Paul? If so, wow...it sounded great! If not........wow, it sounded great!

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1479796234' post='3179284'] Yes I believe it is. They are also very helpful on the phone- well Skype anyway. Really nice people as it goes. [/quote] Excellent. I'll pop a multimeter onto the pickups today and check we have continuity, then start swopping everything over

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1479746851' post='3178934'] Thats looking great Andy. Sterling work as usual. I'm sure you already know, but just in case- there is a pickup blend knob on the current setup, which is not standard, this is replaced in Neals rewire kit with a toggle. which can only be a good thing, IMHO. Best S [/quote] Spotted that but hadn't worked out what all the controls do yet I'm assuming there will be a wiring diagram on the Neals web site. Is this the only mockingbird version they do?

The work on the hand-plane and thicknesser seems to have gone OK, with the neck blank square, straight and the final through-neck width: David Dyke has done us proud with a nice bit of maple and rosewood I draw and check the neck dimensions, etc, directly onto the blank. However, won't do any cutting or routing until Nic and I have firmed up the intended bridge - the dimensions will directly influence the necessary neck angle, which will be built into the body top cutout of the neck: