Andyjr1515

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1480180042' post='3182327'] Some skilled fingerboard recess routing up ahead I know the feeling about the wimpy scroll saw and band saw. WRT the radio transmitter, could it fit into an internal recess combined with a second internal jack socket. The best way I can describe (without sorting a sketch to upload) is: Imagine a telecaster type control rout, wide and long enough for the radio transmitter. At the 'pickup switch' end of the cavity drill a blind 12mm hole for a jack socket- this is going further into the body, parallel to the body, heading towards the lower bout. Fit the jack socket to the 'blind' hole with parallel wiring to the 'regular' cable type jack socket. Cover the whole arrangement with the rear control plate. The transmitter should work through the 10~ 15 mm of front body timber, an experiment many be needed. Andy if the description makes no sense I will sketch for you. [/quote] A sketch would be great

Getting there. Prototype housing no.1 physically works but misses a detail from the aesthetics. Here it is in use (view from back of bass): Then to remove it for recharge or to put in a conventional jack, flip it up: ...and pull it out: The workings would be covered by a piece of 1/8" mahogany. The other side (imagine the jack is inset into the top rather than sitting flush as in this example): I need to do prototype 2 with the recess in the proper place but, conceptually, I reckon that might work

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1480167099' post='3182169'] He, he, he....another great build taking shape! [/quote] Thanks, White Cloud In terms of the angled approach....well, this [i]might [/i]fit....just.....

After a week of non-building distractions, I've been able to make a bit more progress this morning. I've flattened the notch and brought it down so that the top sits 1.5mm proud. This is because the neck is angled and I want the fretboard end (prob after 24th fret) to be flush with the body top rather than at where the neck meets the body. The fretboard will be set into the body wood to achieve this. By the way - a reminder. I make a lot of this stuff up as I go along. Please remember that these threads simply illustrate how I personally have tackled each of the challenges of a build...never assume that what I do is the right or best way! With the top positioned correctly with the neck, I could then mark out the bottom panels - these will actually be glued first when I get to that stage. With some nursing of my rickety cheap bandsaw, and some cursing of my new but surprisingly limited scroll saw (probably wrong blades for the job), I got both back wings cut out: This afternoon I am going to experiment with the jack options with some of the mahogany offcut. Nic has been able to borrow an early prototype of SmoothHound wireless Tx. The intention is to be able to set this into a chamber at the back, but still to be able to attach a conventional lead if required. I think, given the design and depth of the SmoothHound, there are two basic options: Straight - This is straightforward, but that is a long way into the body....particularly if you think of placing a conventional cable there. Or angled - think Stratocaster or Ibanez electrics - The depth is too great to use an actual stratocaster jackplate (in the back of the bass) at its quite steep angle, but at this angle photographed, it MIGHT fit... Hence the experiments needed. As always, thanks for looking

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1480076703' post='3181469'] I have put on two more coats of primer, and sanded both back this week. I'm thinking one more coat of Primer should do it. Then i'm going to find myself a "catch tray" and start to try and make this bass sparkly. I also have plans to make the pickguard a little more fancy. That may happen this weekend too. Enjoy your weekend people [/quote] Excellent. We're all waiting patiently:)

[quote name='roman_sub' timestamp='1479838031' post='3179708'] looks great so far! [/quote] Thanks, roman_sub

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1479827344' post='3179596'] Yes, it was the Sterling Andy and - yes, wow, it does sound great! That was the P pickup, just rolled back a touch. Gigged with it twice since picking it up last week and I really couldn't be happier. [/quote] That's excellent. Great,great depth to the sound

Nic sent the bridge with other bits and bobs which allowed me to calculate the neck angle (roundabout 1 degree). After battling for sometime with my very cheap (and on the very edge of its capabilities) bandsaw, got the neck rough-cut in side profile: The headstock will clearly be cut down, but at the moment, the far end is absolutely parallel to the top of the neck - useful as a datum I will be cutting the bottom wings and attaching them to the neck before gluing the top on, but this is broadly where the top fits:

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1479824738' post='3179569'] A camera video of 'Bed of Roses' from my new band 'Just Jovi's first gig the other night. Sound is a bit harsh but you get the idea! [url="https://www.facebook.com/739111803/videos/10154730018291804/"]https://www.facebook.com/739111803/videos/10154730018291804/[/url] [/quote] Was that the Sterling 5, Paul? If so, wow...it sounded great! If not........wow, it sounded great!

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1479796234' post='3179284'] Yes I believe it is. They are also very helpful on the phone- well Skype anyway. Really nice people as it goes. [/quote] Excellent. I'll pop a multimeter onto the pickups today and check we have continuity, then start swopping everything over

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1479746851' post='3178934'] Thats looking great Andy. Sterling work as usual. I'm sure you already know, but just in case- there is a pickup blend knob on the current setup, which is not standard, this is replaced in Neals rewire kit with a toggle. which can only be a good thing, IMHO. Best S [/quote] Spotted that but hadn't worked out what all the controls do yet I'm assuming there will be a wiring diagram on the Neals web site. Is this the only mockingbird version they do?

The work on the hand-plane and thicknesser seems to have gone OK, with the neck blank square, straight and the final through-neck width: David Dyke has done us proud with a nice bit of maple and rosewood I draw and check the neck dimensions, etc, directly onto the blank. However, won't do any cutting or routing until Nic and I have firmed up the intended bridge - the dimensions will directly influence the necessary neck angle, which will be built into the body top cutout of the neck:

[quote name='martthebass' timestamp='1479736108' post='3178836'] Same question from me Andy [/quote] PM sent

...and we have a playable bass Here it is with the extra two spacers...SURELY it doesn't need to be that high?? Well - even with these I've had to raise the saddles 1-2mm to get to my nominal action height. But it plays. Nicely and buzz-free. The extra height of the bridge doesn't show at all on the fully assembled instrument: Later this week I'll have a go at putting the new electrics ... and, assuming all goes well, it's then pretty much ready to return to Stuart

Wow - this is so much like a finished bass, it's spooky Next job won't show much of a difference but is super-critical .... squaring-up the top surface of the neck. I'll do that by hand-plane and sanding beam and then run the back through the thicknesser to square that up too. That way, I should have perfectly square datum surfaces to do the follow-up routing operations.

Here's what the headstock looks like. Not perfect, but the main objective - to soften the look of the crack without jeopardising the very delicate decal is, I think, achieved: The Schaller spacers are due today so we will soon know if we have a physically playable bass

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1479659579' post='3178206'] I'll PM you Andy [/quote] PM sent Just for general interest, by the way, here is the same veneer - this time applied to one of my own 6-strings electrics - dyed red :

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1479659130' post='3178204'] Looking at the supplier you mentioned I can see why you would want to see the exact piece as there is so much variance. I haven't really thought about this before but do love that green birch burl finish. What sort of money are we talking about to do one? And how long does it take? I won't be able to afford it in the short term but would be interested once I have collected all the other bits I need. And you are close to me too (I grew up in Spondon and still visit my Mum yo there at least once a month). Feel free to pm me if you don't want to put figures on an open forum. [/quote] I'll PM you Andy

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1479658245' post='3178186'] There's a couple of good places in London that I've used. [url="http://www.exotic-veneer.co.uk/"]http://www.exotic-veneer.co.uk/[/url] [url="https://www.capitalcrispin.com/"]https://www.capitalcrispin.com/[/url] Both have an amazing stock of veneers including impressive burls. They vary in prices. The burls can get quite expensive (IMHO). [/quote] Yes - they are good suppliers. too. With veneers, I always like to see the actual piece I'm buying and tend to avoid 'generic' photos suppliers. To be honest, some of my best veneers have been got just by keeping a weather eye open on ebay for ones that catch your eye

Veneers done this way work great for flat-topped basses and guitars with simple (ie, curved in one plane only) curves such as arm relief, etc.. For compound curves (think of the multi-plane curves of the carve of, say, a Les Paul 6 string) this way doesn't really work - you are generally into vacuum presses or similar. Always happy to talk about any project you might have...or help to pick up the pieces if you want to have a go yourself Seriously - if anyone does have a go themselves, feel free to contact me anytime for hints and tips along the way.

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1479657489' post='3178173'] They are beautiful, what veneer is the green one? [/quote] It's a birch burl. Bryan found the supplier with a web search (DesignHolz, based in Germany). The quilted maple I used on this orange one was ordered at the same time. They've got some great veneers and they are delivered, flawless, rolled up in an impossibly small box! I haven't done much veneering recently but they would be my first port of call...

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1479655310' post='3178148'] That looks stunning, would there be other options for the curved edges if the ply didn't look as good? [/quote] Not really with veneer. If the sides and/or back aren't great you'd usually stain it dark and do a back and front burst, or a dark back and sides and burst for the top. This is Bryan's (allighatt0r) Westone: Depending on the state of it, it is sometimes even possible to leave the back and sides original paint job on and just do the top. I did that with this Epiphone Junior: Doing that does tend to lose the illusion of a solid fancy wood, however. Even if you ignore the stripes, it is clear this is a thin veneer on top

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1479652326' post='3178118'] Lovely - I'm sure that Charlie will be more than happy.... [/quote] Thanks, Mick

[quote name='blablas' timestamp='1479645802' post='3178037'] Fantastic transformation! [/quote] Thanks, blablas !

Finished and, waiting a week to let the varnish cure properly, ready to go back to its owner. In the end, I did a single wipe of Ronseal over the excellent tough and quick surface-finish the Melamine gave me. It would have taken me too long to learn how to achieve high gloss with the melamine...I'll try that on one of my own guitars in the future rather than risk someone-elses. Not bad for an entry-level jobee. This: Becomes this: