Andyjr1515

Hurrah! First piece of wood cut! These are the two mahogany blanks I have cut lengthways from an extra-wide mahogany plank. The saw is just a prop - I'm not fit enough or mad enough to cut that by hand I used an old circular saw...and that struggled! It's good dense stuff The marks you can see are just a couple of surface stains which will disappear when I put them through the thicknesser later today. Also today, I will rout the mating faces - essential before cutting out the shapes and, if all that goes well, cut out the basic blanks

[quote name='niceguyhomer' timestamp='1479364222' post='3175925'] I don't understand this truss rod but I think it works OK. I've ignored the fact that it tightens as you turn it counter clockwise and after about half a turn, I've now got more relief in the neck which is what I was trying to achieve. I guess you live and learn. Thanks for your help fellas. [/quote] Great stuff I think the string pull probably wasn't enough to bow the neck enough for you when the truss rod was at its loose mid point, and as you carried on turning, the truss rod is now simply giving the string pull a helping hand, albeit in the opposite direction to "normal". Whatever, it's working

If it's a dual action, it's probably just at the middle point. If you carry on turning clockwise, does it then start getting tighter again? If so, then what is happening when it feels tight on the anti-clockwise is that the truss rod will be starting to form a back bow in the neck.

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1479334958' post='3175825'] Lovely looking wood Surely pre-slotted is cheating. As BC builds develop I would be expecting tree felling at the least, and following the example of [url="https://paulsellers.com/"]Paul Sellers[/url] (who I find inspirational about hand tools) filing your own saw blades. [/quote] It's OK....I'll be finish sanding it with the stubble of my chin

OK - I haven't actually started cutting any [i]wood [/i]yet....but I have cut some paper These are the paper templates for cutting the mahogany over the next couple of days. I will be cutting it oversize by a few mm and then file and sand down to final size by hand. The other thing that has arrived is the neck and fretboard wood: Not a great photo but David Dyke has once more supplied some excellent timber. Matched maple outers, rosewood inner splice and a lighter toned AAA rosewood fretboard. I got David to slot it too...just £10 to remove all the worry of c*****g it up. Bargain! By the end of the weekend, we should have a joined neck blank and the body sections thicknessed, flattened and cut out.

If you buy DPDT switch, dual pole dual throw, you basically have two switches in one. Each humbu ker will use one side of the switch wher the middle pole is where the joined leads from the humbu ker goes and the top or bottom goes to earth depending whether you want up to split the coil or down. These switches are on-on, though rather than on-off- on

Thanks folks All this means a huge amount...

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1479247642' post='3175115'] Doesn't it look posh in the write up! Gorgeous [/quote] My first reaction was, "Is that really the one I built??? Surely there must be some mistake!"

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1479208029' post='3174710'] Annnnnnnd finally we have worldwide recognition [url="http://www.notreble.com/buzz/2016/06/20/bass-of-the-week-ajr-guitars-singlecut-bass/"]http://www.notreble....singlecut-bass/[/url] [/quote] This came as a complete surprise. Still haven't wiped the silly grin off my face! Many, many thanks to Kert for putting this forward

I'm trying a different finish...with the environmentally-led formulation change, the Ronseal polyurethane varnish gave me some issues last time. Having seen someone's fabulous build (was it here? Can't remember who...) who used Chestnut Melamine, I thought I'd give it a whirl. This CANNOT be used in my cellar workshop, even with mask and extraction, but is very quick and so far very impressive. This is after one sanding sealer coat and one top coat:

[quote name='martthebass' timestamp='1479149062' post='3174360'] Now that's just taunting! The bass is currently in Advanced Guitar Solutions in Sheffield having phase one of its beautification treatment....the horrible black gunky varnish is being stripped and the headstock sprayed over. The rear of the neck is having a vintage gloss tint applied. Not cheap, hopefully it will be worth it. Phase 2 will be removal of the 'cinnamon artex' that passes for paint on the body. I expect final cost will be more than if I'd bought a full fat Sterling but the sub is basically a 3 band stingray with the pup in series - a much better sound (to my ears) that the stock US Sterling. [/quote] Interesting stuff . Did you see my Sterling 5 thread for Paul_S? Just fitted a P pickup and put that to passive with a standard 3 way switch. Interestingly, to balance the volumes of the two p/ups, I rewired that also to series. To my ears it sounds great.

[quote name='martthebass' timestamp='1479144399' post='3174303'] Watching with interest Andy. I Think you could really help turn my ugly duckling MM usa Sterling sub into a swan. [/quote] Sounds interesting

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1479140221' post='3174252'] How about a thread dedicated to Andy's work? [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/295232-andyjr1515s-custom-builds/page__pid__3174264#entry3174264"]http://basschat.co.u...64#entry3174264[/url] [/quote] You do know that flattery will get you absolutely anywhere, don't you

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1479141472' post='3174268'] So this is being done for one of my fellow Hatfielders - looks like I'll have to sneak round to Charlie's to have a closer look when it's done. Charlie's actually a very accomplished drummer.. [/quote] Ahah....the mystery solved

Thanks, folks Still some bits of PVA there - I've added a quick wipe of cellulose sanding sealer and that REALLY brings it out as yellow: But, the general look of the stained ply is, to my eyes, not bad at all ! : The sealer has probably left it at its final depth of colour, but the varnish top coats will give it its texture. Here's how the colour is beginning to look (prob more orange than the photo shows): ...and here's the rear cutout. Again, not bad for ply :

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1479130405' post='3174134'] That quilt is lovely! Quite like the colour! [/quote] Thanks, Bryan As the final finish goes on, it will darken a touch too...I think it's going to look quite something

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1479094228' post='3173877'] Looks lovely Andy. As usual.... [/quote] Thanks, Stuart While W1_Pro's bits are coming over the Channel from Schaller and gelfin's wood trundles its way from David Dyke, I should be able to get this to the point where I can start the final varnishing on this veneer job. That is good news because final finishing involves 2% time doing stuff and 98% time waiting for said stuff to dry I did the edge sanding of the veneer. Two main objectives, sanding ALONG the join line:[list] [*]getting a nice clean, smooth feathering of the edge join [*]getting rid of all the PVA - which does not and will not accept stain [/list] Finished result should be something like this: Then started the staining. The owner wants orange with the ply sides flaunted Well - that looks pretty orange to me : Nowadays, I do a cursory look for stray PVA (or, in the case of the sides, where there is still some original undercoat I've missed) but let the first coat of stain find the rest. You can see what the PVA does here - the patches on the join line is PVA and the light patches where I've started to stain the wood in the cutout is original undercoat: It's easily fixed - which is why I use the stain to find the patches! I just let it dry and then resand and restain For unstained, I just wipe with a damp cloth - the PVA still shows through. The quilt is starting to show nicely Bling or not, it will be stunning when the varnish is on!

[quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1479081633' post='3173842'] excellent stuff Andy. [/quote] Thanks!

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1479065747' post='3173682'] Hocus Pocus...Andy performing more of his magic...lovely job mate...just what we've come to expect from you.. [/quote] Thanks, Mick Just found out I may have you to thank for the lead on this one I'll PM you

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1479064815' post='3173669'] Watching this one as I may be a future customer to have a veneer job done. Think that's one of the veneers you emailed me pics of Andy. [/quote] ....and I've held back a couple of sheets 'just in case' for you Mind you, PRS have blinged the quilt maple look quite a bit...I think a walnut burst or similar could be maybe less cliché'd... It'll be interesting how this comes out, though. Quilt is, PRS or not, a spectacular figuring. It's impossible to look at it in the flesh and convince yourself it's not actually rippling. I ironed this two or three times more than I needed to simply because I was convinced it was lifting...which, of course, it wasn't.

Just had an email from Schaller's Managing Director (yes, I know ) - the parts are on the way. Great, great service

Apols if this is a bit picture-heavy! Before I start, I do a quick paper impression of all the screwholes and chambers. You'll never find the screwholes again once you've veneered, otherwise I also razor cut the joining edges of the veneer pieces using a long steel rule to ensure the mating edges are exactly in line. This is basically my kit. The rollers I use are the small foam gloss paint rollers from Homebase, etc.. plus a little water spritzer (actually a travel atomiser I think I got from superdrug): I use the foam roller to apply an even thin coat of PVA to both the veneer and the body wood, with particular attention to the edge rollovers... I use the spray to dampen the other side of the veneer, which will immediately start curling once the dampness of the PVA starts expanding the glued side. A light water mist on the other side will counteract that effect. I let the PVA dry - 20mins or so Then I lay the first half on, carefully positioning to the centreline, then iron firmly, starting with the join line then radiating outwards. I am particularly careful to ensure that the edges are well ironed down. I then lay the second piece, butting right up to the join and ironing into the join - at first the veneer floats and shrinks slightly with the heat so you are trying to push it up to a tight joint as you fix it. Once on and the edges are secure, I rough-trim the excess with a very sharp modelling knife (I use the Stanley disposables), using the body as the blade guide and always cutting 'downhill' so any splits occr away from the body rather than into the body. This took about 30 minutes total: ...and the front, with the extra cutting, around 40 minutes: Next week's jobs are edge sanding, general sanding (all traces of PVA must be sanded away!), fill (if necessary) and stain (with ink, of course )

[quote name='v8bass' timestamp='1479046394' post='3173490'] Just found a black 3d Schaller shim if it's of use lads I do love a BC Rich with the Moser set up Look forward to seeing this one up and running Drop a pm if you need the shim sent Gary [/quote] That's very good of you, Gary. It looks like Schaller are going to be able to send me the gold ones (it will need 2!) but I'll possibly shout if there's a glitch Cheers Andy

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1478986766' post='3173210'] Will look forward to seeing the progress. Always interesting to see your projects and marvel at your skill level Andy. [/quote] Thanks, Gary I'd better not c**k up the final finishing.... that really would let the crown slip We're going really bling on this one. Quilt maple in orange Maple can be a bit problematic with the veneering (some varieties are prone to stress cracking) but, if I don't use it all up just on the top, I've got enough of this to do front and back : Just got to check I've got enough Evostick PVA and, if so, veneering should be done today

Hi It's been a busy week. Kicked off gelfin's full build, finished off Paul S's Stingray 5 ready for return, on with W1_Pro's Mockingbird...and this weekend / week ahead in between I'm doing a quick strip and veneer job for someone on their 'cheap and cheerful' P bass body. It's been a while since I've done a veneer job but, in case anybody's interested in how I do them, I'll post the essentials. There are some much more detailed threads from previous builds I can point anyone who wants more info... or just ask if you're interested And Kert - this might clarify some of the stuff I've referred to in [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/294212-shortscale-and-sparkly-on-a-budget-by-a-beginner/"]your sparkly thread[/url]. For stripping, if it's nitro, I generally just sand, but if it's poly, I use a heatgun and decorators scraper for starters: Quite often, particularly for cheaper models, the top colour is a thin coat over a much tougher clear poly undercoat. This is the point you think - OH THIS IS EASIER THAN I THOUGHT!: Then it occurs to you that actually, the underneath isn't wood, it's - OH C**P! THIS IS GOING TO BE TRICKY!!!! This layer you see here below is ridiculously tough: I use LOTS of heat, but moving all the time and scraping small continuous areas. It is very easy indeed to scorch the wood. With practice, though, this can be got off relatively quickly (except on Ibanez bodies where this underlayer is unbelievably tough...it takes time and great patience). On this one, though, bit of sanding still to do on the back here, but most of what you see here is wood after around 20 mins: The sides and, especially, round the cutaways are a bit trickier. Here it is very easy to burn the wood and it is easy for the decorators scraper to dig in. So...I generally use a cabinet scraper: Now this also illustrates something else that is important - you can never be sure what you are going to find underneath. And MANY cheaper guitars and basses, even some advertised as, say, 'Alder', are actually ply (albeit in that example, 100% alder ply laminates). And my view is there's nothing wrong with ply...sometimes a bit heavy but usually very rigid, stable and often produce a perfectly decent tone. From a finishing point of view, it then depends on preference - flaunt or hide. We're going to flaunt this one - it will be veneered back and front, but the sides and rear cutaway will be simply stained, ply 'n all This is now stripped waiting final sand down before ironing on some veneer, which I will cover (sorry about the pun) in the coming days :