Andyjr1515

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1479141472' post='3174268'] So this is being done for one of my fellow Hatfielders - looks like I'll have to sneak round to Charlie's to have a closer look when it's done. Charlie's actually a very accomplished drummer.. [/quote] Ahah....the mystery solved

Thanks, folks Still some bits of PVA there - I've added a quick wipe of cellulose sanding sealer and that REALLY brings it out as yellow: But, the general look of the stained ply is, to my eyes, not bad at all ! : The sealer has probably left it at its final depth of colour, but the varnish top coats will give it its texture. Here's how the colour is beginning to look (prob more orange than the photo shows): ...and here's the rear cutout. Again, not bad for ply :

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1479130405' post='3174134'] That quilt is lovely! Quite like the colour! [/quote] Thanks, Bryan As the final finish goes on, it will darken a touch too...I think it's going to look quite something

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1479094228' post='3173877'] Looks lovely Andy. As usual.... [/quote] Thanks, Stuart While W1_Pro's bits are coming over the Channel from Schaller and gelfin's wood trundles its way from David Dyke, I should be able to get this to the point where I can start the final varnishing on this veneer job. That is good news because final finishing involves 2% time doing stuff and 98% time waiting for said stuff to dry I did the edge sanding of the veneer. Two main objectives, sanding ALONG the join line:[list] [*]getting a nice clean, smooth feathering of the edge join [*]getting rid of all the PVA - which does not and will not accept stain [/list] Finished result should be something like this: Then started the staining. The owner wants orange with the ply sides flaunted Well - that looks pretty orange to me : Nowadays, I do a cursory look for stray PVA (or, in the case of the sides, where there is still some original undercoat I've missed) but let the first coat of stain find the rest. You can see what the PVA does here - the patches on the join line is PVA and the light patches where I've started to stain the wood in the cutout is original undercoat: It's easily fixed - which is why I use the stain to find the patches! I just let it dry and then resand and restain For unstained, I just wipe with a damp cloth - the PVA still shows through. The quilt is starting to show nicely Bling or not, it will be stunning when the varnish is on!

[quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1479081633' post='3173842'] excellent stuff Andy. [/quote] Thanks!

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1479065747' post='3173682'] Hocus Pocus...Andy performing more of his magic...lovely job mate...just what we've come to expect from you.. [/quote] Thanks, Mick Just found out I may have you to thank for the lead on this one I'll PM you

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1479064815' post='3173669'] Watching this one as I may be a future customer to have a veneer job done. Think that's one of the veneers you emailed me pics of Andy. [/quote] ....and I've held back a couple of sheets 'just in case' for you Mind you, PRS have blinged the quilt maple look quite a bit...I think a walnut burst or similar could be maybe less cliché'd... It'll be interesting how this comes out, though. Quilt is, PRS or not, a spectacular figuring. It's impossible to look at it in the flesh and convince yourself it's not actually rippling. I ironed this two or three times more than I needed to simply because I was convinced it was lifting...which, of course, it wasn't.

Just had an email from Schaller's Managing Director (yes, I know ) - the parts are on the way. Great, great service

Apols if this is a bit picture-heavy! Before I start, I do a quick paper impression of all the screwholes and chambers. You'll never find the screwholes again once you've veneered, otherwise I also razor cut the joining edges of the veneer pieces using a long steel rule to ensure the mating edges are exactly in line. This is basically my kit. The rollers I use are the small foam gloss paint rollers from Homebase, etc.. plus a little water spritzer (actually a travel atomiser I think I got from superdrug): I use the foam roller to apply an even thin coat of PVA to both the veneer and the body wood, with particular attention to the edge rollovers... I use the spray to dampen the other side of the veneer, which will immediately start curling once the dampness of the PVA starts expanding the glued side. A light water mist on the other side will counteract that effect. I let the PVA dry - 20mins or so Then I lay the first half on, carefully positioning to the centreline, then iron firmly, starting with the join line then radiating outwards. I am particularly careful to ensure that the edges are well ironed down. I then lay the second piece, butting right up to the join and ironing into the join - at first the veneer floats and shrinks slightly with the heat so you are trying to push it up to a tight joint as you fix it. Once on and the edges are secure, I rough-trim the excess with a very sharp modelling knife (I use the Stanley disposables), using the body as the blade guide and always cutting 'downhill' so any splits occr away from the body rather than into the body. This took about 30 minutes total: ...and the front, with the extra cutting, around 40 minutes: Next week's jobs are edge sanding, general sanding (all traces of PVA must be sanded away!), fill (if necessary) and stain (with ink, of course )

[quote name='v8bass' timestamp='1479046394' post='3173490'] Just found a black 3d Schaller shim if it's of use lads I do love a BC Rich with the Moser set up Look forward to seeing this one up and running Drop a pm if you need the shim sent Gary [/quote] That's very good of you, Gary. It looks like Schaller are going to be able to send me the gold ones (it will need 2!) but I'll possibly shout if there's a glitch Cheers Andy

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1478986766' post='3173210'] Will look forward to seeing the progress. Always interesting to see your projects and marvel at your skill level Andy. [/quote] Thanks, Gary I'd better not c**k up the final finishing.... that really would let the crown slip We're going really bling on this one. Quilt maple in orange Maple can be a bit problematic with the veneering (some varieties are prone to stress cracking) but, if I don't use it all up just on the top, I've got enough of this to do front and back : Just got to check I've got enough Evostick PVA and, if so, veneering should be done today

Hi It's been a busy week. Kicked off gelfin's full build, finished off Paul S's Stingray 5 ready for return, on with W1_Pro's Mockingbird...and this weekend / week ahead in between I'm doing a quick strip and veneer job for someone on their 'cheap and cheerful' P bass body. It's been a while since I've done a veneer job but, in case anybody's interested in how I do them, I'll post the essentials. There are some much more detailed threads from previous builds I can point anyone who wants more info... or just ask if you're interested And Kert - this might clarify some of the stuff I've referred to in [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/294212-shortscale-and-sparkly-on-a-budget-by-a-beginner/"]your sparkly thread[/url]. For stripping, if it's nitro, I generally just sand, but if it's poly, I use a heatgun and decorators scraper for starters: Quite often, particularly for cheaper models, the top colour is a thin coat over a much tougher clear poly undercoat. This is the point you think - OH THIS IS EASIER THAN I THOUGHT!: Then it occurs to you that actually, the underneath isn't wood, it's - OH C**P! THIS IS GOING TO BE TRICKY!!!! This layer you see here below is ridiculously tough: I use LOTS of heat, but moving all the time and scraping small continuous areas. It is very easy indeed to scorch the wood. With practice, though, this can be got off relatively quickly (except on Ibanez bodies where this underlayer is unbelievably tough...it takes time and great patience). On this one, though, bit of sanding still to do on the back here, but most of what you see here is wood after around 20 mins: The sides and, especially, round the cutaways are a bit trickier. Here it is very easy to burn the wood and it is easy for the decorators scraper to dig in. So...I generally use a cabinet scraper: Now this also illustrates something else that is important - you can never be sure what you are going to find underneath. And MANY cheaper guitars and basses, even some advertised as, say, 'Alder', are actually ply (albeit in that example, 100% alder ply laminates). And my view is there's nothing wrong with ply...sometimes a bit heavy but usually very rigid, stable and often produce a perfectly decent tone. From a finishing point of view, it then depends on preference - flaunt or hide. We're going to flaunt this one - it will be veneered back and front, but the sides and rear cutaway will be simply stained, ply 'n all This is now stripped waiting final sand down before ironing on some veneer, which I will cover (sorry about the pun) in the coming days :

OK - Schaller, a company I already respected, has gone up to the very, very top of my list of "suppliers with great customer service as well as very good products." Their website wouldn't take my order for the spacers this afternoon. They make it clear on their website that they actually do not take direct orders from UK and most other European countries but, instead, give a list of authorised wholesalers and retailers. So when I kept getting a server error at the point I confirmed my UK address for delivery of the order - although I thought it a bit odd it was a server error - I assumed the error was linked to the fact that the site would probably block me anyway. Anyway, as Touchstone Tonewoods (their nominated UK retailer) didn't show them in stock and weren't open until Tuesday, I thought I'd drop an enquiry to Schaller's customer service email address. I did this late afternoon today. I've just received an email back (it's Saturday evening) from a Dr Bünning.... the owner and Managing Director of Schaller.... apologising, asking for screen shots of the message I'm seeing and letting me know an alternative way of placing my order with them. Now that's what I call GREAT customer service

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1478971896' post='3173077'] No problem. Funnily enough the guy I was talking to replaced the original bridge on one of his NJ basses with a Schaller roller bridge & used spacers on it, so it should work OK. [/quote] That's great info, Rhys I LOVE this forum

Also I think it must have been a different design originally on the bass - Stuart's is three screws at the front and two at the back. This one is two at the front and three at the back. Very grateful for the info, though. I now know that there is nothing wrong elsewhere. I am also pretty certain I am going to be able to get hold of the spacers for the Schaller - and it seems a well put together piece of kit. I've checked on the Schaller site again and am pretty sure they won't sell direct to us in the UK but they do say their designated retail outlets (touchstone tonewoods) have access to their complete range. So, although the spares are showing out of stock, I think touchstone will be obliged to order them for me - I've dropped them an email. If the worst comes to the worst, Stuart would be able to order them direct from Schaller from Sri Lanka! (Just think how much more complicated this is all going to get post Brexit!!!!) I therefore probably won't be following up the US bridge opportunity, RhysP, but I'm very grateful indeed for the info and research!

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1478970257' post='3173063'] Here's the pictures of the bridge (on a rather lovely NJ Wave bass): [url="http://s86.photobucket.com/user/RhysP/media/NJ%20bass%20bridge%201_zps7lualads.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s86.photobucket.com/user/RhysP/media/NJ%20bass%20bridge%202_zpsjhjsjnvc.jpg.html"][/url] [/quote] Ah....I think Stuart will want to stick with gold... Nice bridge, though and, as you say, very nice bass

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1478958131' post='3172963'] My US Mock has an original Badass on it with the very thick bass plate. They didn't use Badass bridges exclusively but they did use them a lot. I've got some very knowledgable friends both here & in the US who are vintage BC Rich collectors, do you want me to see if I can find out what the original bridge on this would have been? [/quote] That's very interesting, RhysP ...the base plate answers the question! ...and yes - VERY interested in the bridge your contact has for sale! Very, very interested!

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478950498' post='3172884'] Great info, Stuart. I'll have a look. Certainly I'm getting nowhere yet ref spacers - the Schaller site keeps crashing (and I think only go through distributors in UK but those distributors don't seem to hold them!) I'm sure we can get some spacers if necessary, but a Badass would be better [/quote] Looked into this and the Hipshot equivalent doesn't get anywhere high enough. I think getting hold of the spacers is the key!

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1478949700' post='3172878'] Ahhhhhh. Good to know I was totally wrong about the original bridge.... So after a bit of manly googling, I[i] think[/i] the original bridge -on the USA ones at any rate- and I'm happy to be corrected given my already abysmal strike rate, was a badass. I notice that hipshot do a badass replacement that looks ...erm...tall. Happy to look at one of those Andy, if you think there's any mileage in it. The wiring is terrifying, eh? I have to say, thank god for Neal Moser! [/quote] Great info, Stuart. I'll have a look. Certainly I'm getting nowhere yet ref spacers - the Schaller site keeps crashing (and I think only go through distributors in UK but those distributors don't seem to hold them!) I'm sure we can get some spacers if necessary, but a Badass would be better

OK - raising the bridge SHOULD be straightforward. It's a Schaller 3D-4 that has a 3mm unterlegplatten (shim) If I can work out how to order from Schaller, the great news is that they sell the shims at around 19 Euros a piece. Two should do it, raising the bridge by 6mm and allowing the saddles to be lowered about half of their present extensions. It has also allayed my other concern - why would it be SO far out? Simple. Although Stuart simply swopped a gold Schaller for the black one that was on it when he bought it, this itself was clearly a retro-fit: And, reference Stuart's comments above, I had a peep under the control chamber cover: ...and quietly put it back on

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1478935671' post='3172779'] Here we go Andy. All set for another triumph! [/quote] Hope so and fingers crossed ! I will be giving the bridge a look this morning. I've got a few ideas how it can be raised but it is doing it without it looking like a bit of a bodge that will take some thinking through. I think it will need raising around 8mm! Although I describe this as a small project, it is going to be a fascinating one. If I can get the bass playing as good as it looks and feels, I will be well, well chuffed

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1478886385' post='3172500'] Wonderful instruments. If you look at my avatar you will see the incredibly sexy neck transition carve of my own 1979 USA Mockingbird Standard bass. [/quote] Lovely job

Hi I always like to have a second smaller project on the go when I'm running a full build (and I only do full builds one at a time). There are many times when you are waiting for bits, stuff to set and dry, etc, and it's useful to have something to fill in the time gaps. So as the time gap filler for gelfin's really exciting new build, I'm also running with some tweaks on our very own Stuart's (W1_Pro) wonderful BC Rich NJ Mockingbird. You know when you pick up and instrument and just INSTANTLY go "WOW"? Now, before picking this up out of its case, I would never have said that a Mockingbird would be my first pick of design appearance. But, goodness, this is a beautiful and beautifully made bass: Just look at the neck transition: The neck is simply wonderful - I WILL be taking profile measurements of this because if I could ever emulate it! The finish is silky organically smooth. The weight is just right. It's one of those basses where in my imagination [i]even I [/i]am sure I could play wonderfully well. And trust me...I don't play [b]any[/b] bass [b]at all[/b] well Trouble is, and the reality is, it's pretty much unplayable at the moment.[list] [*]The truss rod works OK, but the frets/fretboard are pretty much all over the place with high areas either side even when the neck has been straightened [*]The saddles are at the very, very end of their travel: [/list] ...and yet the strings are flat against the fretboard - so the bridge needs to be at least 4mm higher than this[list] [*]This crack on the headstock was a worry: [/list] ...on closer inspection, I'm pretty sure that is is just a crack from the trussod cover screw in the headstock plate and not the headstock itself. However, those logo transfers are VERY close to the surface and must be protected at all costs! [list] [*]The other cosmetic issue is an odd one. There is a line of filler, white or gone white, across the centre beam: [/list] ...odd. There's a grain difference either side too and yet there is no evidence from the top or back that there is a splice of any sort. Anyway - it's on e the back and my advice is to leave well alone [list] [*]There is an enhancement too - fitting this excellently presented replacement electrics loom from Neal Moser: [/list] I'm very excited - Nic's (gelfin) intriguing new build and Stuart's (W1_Pro) wonderful upgrade. Bass tinkerer's bliss

Still not a huge amount to photo but quite a bit of activity on this. Although the body will be covered in cream paint, I have suggested that we go for 2-layer mahogany (a bit like Pete's recent EB3-ish) for the 'gravitas' and sustain. It will be chambered to keep the weight under control. It is clearly a VERY long body and I feared we might have been looking at some expensive oversize blanks but then had a look through some planks of great mahogany I bought a few years ago. There's one there ample for the four long pieces of the wings And it's lovely tight grained stuff too - perfect. I've ordered the neck splices from the excellent and reliable David Dyke - two plain maple outers and a rosewood 6mm central splice - this should make the neck very similar in look to Tom's African bass (which and who is still doing splendidly and regularly playing in front of big and notable crowds!): Tom's centre splice is cocobolo but it will be a similar contrast (unless, of course, we paint the neck too!?) In the meantime, Nic is sending me all sorts of goodies. Won't be long before there's some cutting and gluing going on

[quote name='mcc' timestamp='1476712541' post='3156522'] I guess I just wanted to know if anyone has changed the nut on their basses for a narrower option and if intonation and everything (after setting up the bridge) was OK. The issue about the zero fret is that the nut only functions as a string guide for the width not for the height. [/quote] Yes - I've narrowed spacing and widened spacing at the nut. It won't affect intonation, tone or anything else as long as the strings never go beyond where the fret starts rounding off at the fret ends. As dyerseve says, there may be grooves in your zero, but if the new nut slots are properly cut, that shouldn't give problems. If the grooves are that deep, then the zero probably needs replacing anyway (a not-uncommon occurrence in general)