Andyjr1515

OK - Schaller, a company I already respected, has gone up to the very, very top of my list of "suppliers with great customer service as well as very good products." Their website wouldn't take my order for the spacers this afternoon. They make it clear on their website that they actually do not take direct orders from UK and most other European countries but, instead, give a list of authorised wholesalers and retailers. So when I kept getting a server error at the point I confirmed my UK address for delivery of the order - although I thought it a bit odd it was a server error - I assumed the error was linked to the fact that the site would probably block me anyway. Anyway, as Touchstone Tonewoods (their nominated UK retailer) didn't show them in stock and weren't open until Tuesday, I thought I'd drop an enquiry to Schaller's customer service email address. I did this late afternoon today. I've just received an email back (it's Saturday evening) from a Dr Bünning.... the owner and Managing Director of Schaller.... apologising, asking for screen shots of the message I'm seeing and letting me know an alternative way of placing my order with them. Now that's what I call GREAT customer service

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1478971896' post='3173077'] No problem. Funnily enough the guy I was talking to replaced the original bridge on one of his NJ basses with a Schaller roller bridge & used spacers on it, so it should work OK. [/quote] That's great info, Rhys I LOVE this forum

Also I think it must have been a different design originally on the bass - Stuart's is three screws at the front and two at the back. This one is two at the front and three at the back. Very grateful for the info, though. I now know that there is nothing wrong elsewhere. I am also pretty certain I am going to be able to get hold of the spacers for the Schaller - and it seems a well put together piece of kit. I've checked on the Schaller site again and am pretty sure they won't sell direct to us in the UK but they do say their designated retail outlets (touchstone tonewoods) have access to their complete range. So, although the spares are showing out of stock, I think touchstone will be obliged to order them for me - I've dropped them an email. If the worst comes to the worst, Stuart would be able to order them direct from Schaller from Sri Lanka! (Just think how much more complicated this is all going to get post Brexit!!!!) I therefore probably won't be following up the US bridge opportunity, RhysP, but I'm very grateful indeed for the info and research!

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1478970257' post='3173063'] Here's the pictures of the bridge (on a rather lovely NJ Wave bass): [url="http://s86.photobucket.com/user/RhysP/media/NJ%20bass%20bridge%201_zps7lualads.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s86.photobucket.com/user/RhysP/media/NJ%20bass%20bridge%202_zpsjhjsjnvc.jpg.html"][/url] [/quote] Ah....I think Stuart will want to stick with gold... Nice bridge, though and, as you say, very nice bass

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1478958131' post='3172963'] My US Mock has an original Badass on it with the very thick bass plate. They didn't use Badass bridges exclusively but they did use them a lot. I've got some very knowledgable friends both here & in the US who are vintage BC Rich collectors, do you want me to see if I can find out what the original bridge on this would have been? [/quote] That's very interesting, RhysP ...the base plate answers the question! ...and yes - VERY interested in the bridge your contact has for sale! Very, very interested!

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478950498' post='3172884'] Great info, Stuart. I'll have a look. Certainly I'm getting nowhere yet ref spacers - the Schaller site keeps crashing (and I think only go through distributors in UK but those distributors don't seem to hold them!) I'm sure we can get some spacers if necessary, but a Badass would be better [/quote] Looked into this and the Hipshot equivalent doesn't get anywhere high enough. I think getting hold of the spacers is the key!

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1478949700' post='3172878'] Ahhhhhh. Good to know I was totally wrong about the original bridge.... So after a bit of manly googling, I[i] think[/i] the original bridge -on the USA ones at any rate- and I'm happy to be corrected given my already abysmal strike rate, was a badass. I notice that hipshot do a badass replacement that looks ...erm...tall. Happy to look at one of those Andy, if you think there's any mileage in it. The wiring is terrifying, eh? I have to say, thank god for Neal Moser! [/quote] Great info, Stuart. I'll have a look. Certainly I'm getting nowhere yet ref spacers - the Schaller site keeps crashing (and I think only go through distributors in UK but those distributors don't seem to hold them!) I'm sure we can get some spacers if necessary, but a Badass would be better

OK - raising the bridge SHOULD be straightforward. It's a Schaller 3D-4 that has a 3mm unterlegplatten (shim) If I can work out how to order from Schaller, the great news is that they sell the shims at around 19 Euros a piece. Two should do it, raising the bridge by 6mm and allowing the saddles to be lowered about half of their present extensions. It has also allayed my other concern - why would it be SO far out? Simple. Although Stuart simply swopped a gold Schaller for the black one that was on it when he bought it, this itself was clearly a retro-fit: And, reference Stuart's comments above, I had a peep under the control chamber cover: ...and quietly put it back on

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1478935671' post='3172779'] Here we go Andy. All set for another triumph! [/quote] Hope so and fingers crossed ! I will be giving the bridge a look this morning. I've got a few ideas how it can be raised but it is doing it without it looking like a bit of a bodge that will take some thinking through. I think it will need raising around 8mm! Although I describe this as a small project, it is going to be a fascinating one. If I can get the bass playing as good as it looks and feels, I will be well, well chuffed

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1478886385' post='3172500'] Wonderful instruments. If you look at my avatar you will see the incredibly sexy neck transition carve of my own 1979 USA Mockingbird Standard bass. [/quote] Lovely job

Hi I always like to have a second smaller project on the go when I'm running a full build (and I only do full builds one at a time). There are many times when you are waiting for bits, stuff to set and dry, etc, and it's useful to have something to fill in the time gaps. So as the time gap filler for gelfin's really exciting new build, I'm also running with some tweaks on our very own Stuart's (W1_Pro) wonderful BC Rich NJ Mockingbird. You know when you pick up and instrument and just INSTANTLY go "WOW"? Now, before picking this up out of its case, I would never have said that a Mockingbird would be my first pick of design appearance. But, goodness, this is a beautiful and beautifully made bass: Just look at the neck transition: The neck is simply wonderful - I WILL be taking profile measurements of this because if I could ever emulate it! The finish is silky organically smooth. The weight is just right. It's one of those basses where in my imagination [i]even I [/i]am sure I could play wonderfully well. And trust me...I don't play [b]any[/b] bass [b]at all[/b] well Trouble is, and the reality is, it's pretty much unplayable at the moment.[list] [*]The truss rod works OK, but the frets/fretboard are pretty much all over the place with high areas either side even when the neck has been straightened [*]The saddles are at the very, very end of their travel: [/list] ...and yet the strings are flat against the fretboard - so the bridge needs to be at least 4mm higher than this[list] [*]This crack on the headstock was a worry: [/list] ...on closer inspection, I'm pretty sure that is is just a crack from the trussod cover screw in the headstock plate and not the headstock itself. However, those logo transfers are VERY close to the surface and must be protected at all costs! [list] [*]The other cosmetic issue is an odd one. There is a line of filler, white or gone white, across the centre beam: [/list] ...odd. There's a grain difference either side too and yet there is no evidence from the top or back that there is a splice of any sort. Anyway - it's on e the back and my advice is to leave well alone [list] [*]There is an enhancement too - fitting this excellently presented replacement electrics loom from Neal Moser: [/list] I'm very excited - Nic's (gelfin) intriguing new build and Stuart's (W1_Pro) wonderful upgrade. Bass tinkerer's bliss

Still not a huge amount to photo but quite a bit of activity on this. Although the body will be covered in cream paint, I have suggested that we go for 2-layer mahogany (a bit like Pete's recent EB3-ish) for the 'gravitas' and sustain. It will be chambered to keep the weight under control. It is clearly a VERY long body and I feared we might have been looking at some expensive oversize blanks but then had a look through some planks of great mahogany I bought a few years ago. There's one there ample for the four long pieces of the wings And it's lovely tight grained stuff too - perfect. I've ordered the neck splices from the excellent and reliable David Dyke - two plain maple outers and a rosewood 6mm central splice - this should make the neck very similar in look to Tom's African bass (which and who is still doing splendidly and regularly playing in front of big and notable crowds!): Tom's centre splice is cocobolo but it will be a similar contrast (unless, of course, we paint the neck too!?) In the meantime, Nic is sending me all sorts of goodies. Won't be long before there's some cutting and gluing going on

[quote name='mcc' timestamp='1476712541' post='3156522'] I guess I just wanted to know if anyone has changed the nut on their basses for a narrower option and if intonation and everything (after setting up the bridge) was OK. The issue about the zero fret is that the nut only functions as a string guide for the width not for the height. [/quote] Yes - I've narrowed spacing and widened spacing at the nut. It won't affect intonation, tone or anything else as long as the strings never go beyond where the fret starts rounding off at the fret ends. As dyerseve says, there may be grooves in your zero, but if the new nut slots are properly cut, that shouldn't give problems. If the grooves are that deep, then the zero probably needs replacing anyway (a not-uncommon occurrence in general)

[quote name='Gibbo9876' timestamp='1478798500' post='3171755'] Hi everyone I am looking to mod up a 96 Squire p bass. I want to change the pickups but the circuit in the bass at the moment is a little weak. What would people recommend as a good all round P bass pickup-circuit Combo? I tried the EMG active pickups but didnt find them too amazing, does this indicate that the bass itself is not worth it? All input would be great, Thanks [/quote] Hi I'm sure that there will be many great suggestions (for what it's worth I've been very impressed with the reasonably priced DiMarzio P pickup) but the Squier P bass is a perfectly acceptable framework to put a decent pickup into...

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1478679164' post='3170761'] Nice work Andy [/quote] Thanks, Rumple

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1478680888' post='3170789'] A bit far for me to come, unfortunately [/quote] I think I'll let you off, Bryan Actually, it's a tiny venue. It's the place we practice at nowadays so this is a part 'thank you' gig for them and part charity fund raising

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1478642736' post='3170635'] I can hardly wait! Yet another lovely job, sir. [/quote] Thanks, Paul

[quote name='Len_derby' timestamp='1478629711' post='3170471'] The ever-modest Andy is a bit coy. The gig is at the Milford Social Club, Milford, Derbyshire. Just off the A6 and about 5 miles north of Derby. I plan to be there. [/quote] It would be great to see you there, Neil

Done The wiring is fairly straightforward - standard 3-way switch stuff: ...polished, and the original scratchplate and wiring loom popped in the case in the event that Paul wants to revert to original spec (very easy to do): Quick sound check - absolutely fine. Some VERY interesting sounds in the middle position with small tweaks on the Music Man volume The neck-only and bridge-only positions are utterly different in character to each other but balance very nicely volume-wise. Looks good doesn't it? I'll be passing this back to Paul next week Thanks for the feedback, folks Andy

Got the opportunity to play this at tonight's band practice . It sounds great in full band context. The Model One is a cracking pickup....I noticed Pete only used one of the six settings on the rotary (no surprise, it was the 'neck only') and when I got to play, I never got past that setting either. At the gig on 10th Dec, it will be a bit special because I will have built every guitar and bass used in the band . The fully tally will be the lead guitarists tele and spare, the vocalist's dreadnought acoustic, Pete's EB3 bass and SG six string, my own own design six string. Must remember to get someone to take a photo

It depends what sound you're after, and I love P90s, but for me a Les Paul needs humbuckers...and as a number of folk have said, for me the Tonerider Alnico IV Classics have just got it. Personal thing of course...

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1478470407' post='3169311'] I was relying on you for this one It is time someone invented 'perfect finish', you just spray it on after 80 grit sanding, it self levels and fills large flaws, no runs and it sets in 1 hour. After that buffing with T cut or similar results in a gloss finish that is rock hard yet impervious to dings. [/quote] I'm working on that....it involves a significant amount of alcohol and shellac. You drink the alcohol and then who the f***cares what you do with the shellac

(Ref gelfin' pic) Isn't that great, folks! (well - the bass anyway )

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1478461339' post='3169204'] It will be 'interesting' getting the finish inside the curves. I look forward to finding out how it should be done [/quote] Yes - I agree, 3below. I also look forward to finding out how it should be done Certainly got no idea at the moment!

[quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1478454122' post='3169138'] A hidden Smoothhound...what a brilliant idea!! [/quote] Entirely gelfin's, I have to confess...