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Everything posted by Andyjr1515
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I'm flattered! ...but it's a bit out of my realm, to be honest That said, I'm sure I've come across something on an old bass in the distant past that had something similar. The video above about the (excellent) bassmute said that the original Fender covers used to have mutes in them - and maybe that's what I'm remembering - and those are, presumably, 'always on'? But I'm sure the thing I have in my mind was switchable. I'll have a dig around and try to remember what it was on/how it worked. Ref magnets, I think that might be problematic. I think such magnets would have to be pretty strong - and that seems to me to be something you would want to avoid so close to the pickups and strings (and you certainly wouldn't want your cover to become magnetised). I'll have a dig around in my memory banks for whatever it was I've seen in the past, but don't hold your breath...I generally can't even remember what I did an hour ago. What were we talking about?
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Stingray pick up without a pre amp?
Andyjr1515 replied to Waddo Soqable's topic in Repairs and Technical
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Stingray pick up without a pre amp?
Andyjr1515 replied to Waddo Soqable's topic in Repairs and Technical
One thing just to be aware of is that, unlike most humbuckers, the coils in the Stingray pickup are wired in parallel and use the preamp for the tone and boost in output. That's not a problem because it is a 4 conductor pickup but you will probably want to wire it up in series if you are going to go passive to get a 'normal' output level. There's an interesting article in the Seymour Duncan blog here https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/latest-updates/the-history-of-the-music-man-stingray-bass-pickup-1976-2021 I did a conversion to passive on @PaulS's Sterling where he asked me to also add a reverse P at the neck. I had to wire up the coils in series to get anywhere near the P output as, in its standard parallel configuration, the Stingray/Sterling pickup had a surprisingly low resistance. -
No more or less than if you were using standard woodscrews. As long as the inserts aren't at all proud of the heel bottom, they won't affect the angle.
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There's this too - stated to be a Bartolini part - not sure where it is, though?? Payment in SGD - singapore? https://tymusiccenter.com/bartolini-50k-push-pull-pot
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You can get linear 50k pots with a pushpulls on ebay to swop one of the other tones with.
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Hi, Si A few pictures are worth a thousand Andyjr1515 words. For Happy Jack's Lull, I checked the bolt length and insert length first to make sure that the bolt would use all the threads in the insert: So that also gives me how deep a hole in the neck heel I need so that the bolt doesn't bottom before it's fully tight. Machine bolts don't have the 'flex' that wood screws have - the inserts have to be fully in line with the hole. I use a brad point of the body/ferrule hole size as a centre punch with the neck clamped in the correct position to mark where the centre point of the ferrule brad-point drill needs to be: The drill hole in the neck heel should be the same diameter as the widest part of the inner (usually tapered) cylinder of the insert's external thread. They should be inserted using a bolt and couple of nuts used as locknuts and a spanner. Even if the inserts have a hex slot DO NOT use an Allen key to insert them. Only use an Allen key if you need to take them out again: These above happen to be flanged inserts. Because the join needs to be flush, there is the added complication of having to create a rebate. Normally, I would use the flangeless ones...but still only insert them to the flush depth. You can go deeper, but need to allow for the longer bolts you will need to use to ensure that all of the internal thread is utilised. Hope this helps
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An M4 insert is usually around 10mm long.
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I use the ones without a flange and go just a gnat's deeper than flush. Just make sure that the hole it is going into is deep enough for the bolt you are going to use or you will discover the 'quick but brutal' way of removing inserts
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Yes - that's the kiddie, Simon. Thanks! And it's actually better playing now than it was then. For the bash, I'd only just got it back from a pro-musician friend that I occasionally make and/or lend guitars and basses to and he'd experimented with the great feature of the Warwick bridge where the high-mass base carrying the saddle blocks is actually two part. The top half of the base that carries the saddles is fully adjustable in height and side/side/front/back tilt. I'm pretty sure he'd raised the action using this feature to use it as a bowed instrument - bit like a cello. Since the bash, I've brought it back to full 'normal bass player' spec with a pleasingly low and slick action and plenty of mwaah. The great thing is that, for players who aren't looking for that mwaah, you can raise the whole block easily without having to lift the saddles onto stilts. It's an largely unsung feature of the Warwick system...
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Happens to me all the time Just to expand. It depends what you are using the router for but, basically: - If you are rounding, say, the edges of the body outline, you would use a top bearing bit and use the cut edge of the body as your template for the bearing to follow... - ...which is the same method that you mention for the truss rod slot, where the bearing is following the side of the neck blank - If you are fine-tuning the body outline from a rough shape cut, you would generally use a mdf or similar template and use a bottom-bearing bit to follow the template. Here, though, it is essential that you are only removing a couple of mm on each pass (general rule for all uses of routers) - for chambers, then again a template can be used but it is essential to hog out the bulk of the material with a Forstner bit or similar so that, again, the router bit is both captive with the bottom bearing and also the bit is removing very small depths of timber.
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You really, really don't want to go freehand with a router unless you are very experienced in their use, @Smanth I am pretty experienced and I still wouldn't ever go freehand...probably because I am also experienced in what can and often does happen when you do
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From a finished article and player's point of view, it's fine. I've played both basses and guitars with Richlite and they have all played, looked and felt good. From a builder's point of view - hmmm, it's in the category of 'jolly hard work'
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Try the brass one first....
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I know it's just one note on one string, but that is remarkably close. It is a teeny bit of treble that seems to be the missing link (whether enough to actually hear it is a different matter). The only thought I have in terms of the body is that I would have expected a mahogany body, if anything, to reduce the treble further. Might be an interesting experiment to fit a high mass bridge to the present donor body and see what difference that makes. My guess is that it would boost treble...
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@Norris !!!! Great to see you back here
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Well, Leicester isn't far away...you could always pop over and try it out . As the little known poet Albert Thring once said, 'Dreaming is just ethe-re-al Buying is where it all-gets-real' - which has nothing whatsoever to do with basses, but it does go some way to explain why Albert Thring never made it as a poet... Drop me a PM if you want to pop over - you would be very welcome.
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Those who frequent the Build Diaries section will be familiar with the builds and mods I've done for fellow band members, fellow Basschat members and, as with this one, for myself. Yes, it's a self-built - but bass-wise, I have been pleased to have been awarded the 'No Treble' Bass of the Week five times over the past few years. Some of the instruments I have built over the years can be seen on my website www.ajrguitarmods.co.uk And those who have been to some of the more recent Bassbashes may well have seen this very bass, the: "SWAPAAWTBBWADS" bass (Same Woods And Proportions As A Warwick Thumb Bass But, Wisely, A Different Shape). Spec is: 34" Scale through-neck 4-string Solid Bubinga body Mahogany/Wenge 3-part neck Black ebony fretboard Luminlay side markers (1/3/5/etc., at fret positions) Seymour Duncan SJB-2 pickups (passive) Seymour Duncan STC-2 2-band EQ Warwick bridge, stop-tail, tuners and Just-a-nut Mk3 Fitted with D'Addario Chromes Schaller strap buttons (others can be fitted on request) 8lbs 7oz playing weight Background is that I built a tribute Jack Bruce Thumb-ish for our band's bassist (which he still plays) but l ended up playing it myself that often that he suggested I build one of my own. Not wanting to head down a plagiarism route, I made one with the same key dimensions and timbers as the Thumb (although lighter than most I have played) but a different body and headstock shape. There is a build thread on the forum - it's missing some emojis from the various forum format changes but has pretty much all of my original build photos on it if anyone is interested: Why am I selling it? Well, the hand arthritis has got me to the stage where my bass and guitaring days are basically over. The bass sits in a gig bag in a cupboard which is not what basses are made for... Here are a few shots of it. Those with a black background are from when it was first made, those with standard room backgrounds were taken this morning. It is in 'as built' condition: ***Someone asked me to add a close up photo of the body now rather than when it was built. It's here: I'm open to offers - my main priority is getting this to someone who's going to play it. I won't use couriers but more than happy to meet halfway up to 100 mile radius from Derby.
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Great addition to a very nice build
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Excellent news on all counts @funkle. They both look great I look forward to the videos. Andy
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Ibanez BTB556MP twin truss - advise needed
Andyjr1515 replied to glassmoon's topic in Repairs and Technical
Assuming that the neck isn't twisted (and if it is, it is maybe that in its past it has been adjusted wrongly) then yes - 'tweak evenly'. As always, small adjustments at a time -
Fitting a neck to a body - screw hole size
Andyjr1515 replied to Jono Bolton's topic in Repairs and Technical
I also find it helps to go 'two twists forward, one twist back' to ensure that the threads in the screw are cutting clean threads in the wood. This is also a pretty essential technique with small wood screws, like those used on tuners, to avoid the nausea-inducing head shear (which usually happens on the last one you try to put in ) -
What...who...where... ...and why is everyone in my bedroom????? I do most of my finer carving with a simple set of card scrapers. Pretty much all of the neck carve with these and quite a bit of the body carve. There are various sets but you need at least one rectangular one (2-3 in different sizes is ideal) and a goose neck one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Marples-M2450-Cabinet-Scraper/dp/B0000DD4NQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=card+scrapers&qid=1672263585&sr=8-6 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Proops-Cabinet-Carbon-Scraper-Postage/dp/B00AIN9Z8C/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=card+scrapers&qid=1672263585&sr=8-15 They generally come with the essential burr already on (they act like mini planes) and that would last long enough for a build so you can avoid the black art of reapplying the burr. ....zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz