Andyjr1515

Round wounds on: One last photo before..... ...it gets put in its case to go to it's new home It's like when the kids leave home...... .... WHAT ARE WE GOING TO DO WITH ALL THE SPACE???

Sometimes I add details on these build threads to remind myself of things. Such as, "I must remember to tell Paul_S where his wires went from the battery box!": I shielded the P-pickup chamber and scratchplate area: ...and then installed the pickups: The passive pots, etc, have arrived so just got to wire it all up and hope it sounds OK

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1477836393' post='3164728'] I reckon they'd appreciate this on the MM forum... :-p [/quote] I'll show my ignorance here .... I didn't know there WAS a MM forum!

I think you've done well for a first attempt with a heat gun. 'Finding the Goldilocks speed' is a very apt phrase . Small scorches are usually sand able even with plain wood finishes so with glitter it will be no problem. Go carefully with the sides, though. Much easier to scorch and/or dig in, particularly round the cutaways and at the corners. Patience is definitely a virtue for this bit

Great stuff . Look forward to seeing the results. My wife has reminded me that it is a method of spraying pottery glaze onto pots that can be done the hand blowing method. I'll try to dig out the details in case the shaker approach isn't any good.

As said earlier, I know nothing about spraying glitter....other than having two semi-arty daughters who used to use glitter for tattoos and art projects. There might be some art-based YouTube clips like this https://youtu.be/1ghJ3jlYdnY that have very low cost ways of applicating glitter evenly. By the way, I can lend you/give you a cheapo and basically a disposable airbrush if you want to rig it up to an air-can. I also have somewhere in my distant memory an artists trick of rigging a straw over a jam jar for a mouth blown airbrush??

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1477884845' post='3165030'] That is a very pretty bass Andy. Well done! [/quote] Thanks, Stuart

Your comments and encouragement mean a lot, folks Very much appreciated - thanks

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1477863899' post='3164960'] Well, I was joking...but then again [/quote] So was I....but then again

Thanks folks - very much appreciated [quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1477851475' post='3164841'] Nicest EB3 I have ever seen - stunning build! Now, how about a Wal lookalike for me [/quote] Well, White Cloud...you know your wish is a mere king's ransom away

[quote name='EliasMooseblaster' timestamp='1477827938' post='3164631'] On that note, can I ask a stupid question? Are these extenders for solving string tensions issues, or intonation/scale length? I can see how it would help to add extra length to the string's total run, but then I always thought the fine-tuning of the scale length was determined by the position of the bridge saddle. (And just to add to everyone else's comments: I've been following this thread in earnest anticipation of any photo updates - this truly is a thing of beauty!) [/quote] It's mainly to get a bit more distance between the ball end and the saddle. As designed, the ball end clasps are so close to the saddles that the silk and windings actually go over some of the saddle slots with most makes of strings and intonation set-ups! The other thing many original EB3 owners did was drill to go for a thru-body/ferrule approach (bit like a telecaster 6 string) to achieve the same end. The second advantage 6feet7's extender bar gives me is that, when I had to slot the saddles so low to get a decent action (ref my c**k up on neck angle calcs), the bar brings the back of the strings to a steeper angle and therefore achieve an OK break angle

Thanks, folks [quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1477824949' post='3164604'] Spectacular! Whilst the three point bridge was a pain in the proverbial and isn't the most user friendly piece of hardware, it just looks so right; well worth the perseverance. Another masterpiece by the maestro. [/quote] Would've been even more of a pain in the proverbial without 6feet7's kind gift of that very nicely made extender bar!

FINISHED!!!!! Well - other than fitting the roundwounds that should be arriving tomorrow.... Forgive the self indulgence :

I'm putting a Stingray 5 down to passive and adding an Aquilar P to it for Paul S at the moment (thread in Build Diaries). Sometime next week I should have wired it up if you want a view of how it sounds. As it happens, I also have a VM Squier Jag (my avatar). They are super basses for trying mods. Fantastic value for money

Now for the strip down. Neck off - making note of the shim: I'm afraid all these beautiful electrics are coming out. Paul's preference with the addition of the P pickup is to go all passive: The pots will need to be changed anyway so, for the cost of a new switch and jack, we will make this basically fully reversible, ie keeping the original scratch plate and also removing the electrics as a complete unit: Paul also has asked for me to take as much weight out as possible in the process. As such, we agreed that I would go medium 'swimming pool' under the plate. To avoid the possibility of router 'incidents', I opted for a rough out with forstner and chisel for starters. Here it is in progress: Although in the area outside where the pickups will fit I could go deeper, I have opted not to because this body is VERY light wood (presumably swamp ash) and a deeper rout will only further reduce the weight a negligible amount while perhaps adding other unwanted issues. This size of rout has offset the weight of the pickup to a reasonable extent, but not reduced the overall weight of the bass much, if at all. While it's off, it's worth a look at the Music Man bridge pickup in all its glory : Lovely, isn't it

Any further progress on this, Ian? Pics! Pics! Pics! Pics!

If it's modern poly, which I assume it will be, I think it is unlikely that Nitromors will touch it (although by all means try it). For me, if it's nitro I reach for the sanding block and if it's poly I reach for the heat gun!

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1477579075' post='3163143'] What do you think about putting the two types of flake together Andy? Potential? Or too much? [/quote] Really no idea. It could look great....or it could look yuk I'm leaning towards yuk at the moment ...but you could always try it on some scrap

Watching with great interest, Kert. I'll be interested in the metallic application suggestions and tips and techniques from basschat members - it's not something I've ever tackled myself.... Andy

...and just as a going away present - scary bit, ie the pickguard, is now done: Just the routine attack with 18000 revs of tungsten carbide and 400 degrees of soldering iron to do now Andy

Same technique and the reversed P slots are cut and trimmed. Also the screw holes actually line up!! I know....surprising and shocking in equal measure :

[quote name='samhay' timestamp='1477553649' post='3162883'] I got the issues with the zero fret, but was wondering more on the choice of nut material - brass vs. bone vs. synthetic stuff, etc. [/quote] Ah...I made a needless confession I used to always go for the graphite/synthetic...and still do for 6 string electrics where tuning stability is the main need. However, for basses, the edge is on the tone transfer of a solid nut (in my personal view). Bone is good but brass looks better on this kind of build

Looking good to me I had so many 'incidents' pulling the router away while the rotor was still turning that now I really HAVE learnt my lesson

[quote name='samhay' timestamp='1477515147' post='3162776'] Looking and sounding good. Did you use the brass nut for the sake of authenticity, or is it your/Pete's preference? [/quote] Neither - I think c**k up is probably a closer description I cover a few pages back that I suspect I over sanded the very end of the fretboard. Whatever the reason, certainly the zero fret was low. I could have put in a higher fret in place, but as I needed a nut anyway for lateral guidance it was easier just to fit a nut. Pete didn't know he might have had a zero fret anyway so no harm done there

...and wait... In the end, I suggested to Paul that I make a start using the remainder of pickguard material I used for the practice run. Although the cellophane protection is a bit worse for wear, it might be OK underneath and either can act as the finished article, or as a template for a second, new, piece of blank material. I've opted to cut this by hand - I reckon for a one-off, by the time I'd made an accurate template I may as well have made an accurate real one. Positioning is clearly critical. For the MM pickup, the neck detail and the holes, I have the existing pickguard. It was easier scoring the outline on the back of the sheet. I used forstner bits of the appropriate size to pin down the critical datum points: Double checked that those critical curves lined up with the original (upside down) pickguard: Then used an upside down fret saw to 'join the dots': Then finished with an assortment of coarse-ish files: I daren't take off the cellophane yet until I've cut out the P pickup hole...but you can see why it's needed!!!: I'll be attempting to position the P pickup and cut that tomorrow. Because it's reverse, it is not possible to put it exactly at the 'sweet spot', but I have agreed with Paul that we will position the B;E;A side at the 11" position :)n I'll let you know how I get on