Andyjr1515

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1476694665' post='3156268'] As expected, looking fantastic. You wouldn't believe how many comments i get about the birds that you use on the headstock. People ask me what they are, and as i cant remember what you said (Swifts or Swallows??) i make a new one up everytime I do always point them in the direction of your website though [/quote] Thanks, Kert! They're swifts - my favourite bird and one which, to our family, hails summer. We have had swifts nesting in the eaves since we moved in here (30 odd years ago). We were bothered in the last couple of years because we were down to two nests of which one was abandoned. This year, though, we've had four If you've never been close to a flock of swifts when they are tearing round the buildings at crazy speeds screaming away (probably scaring themselves s******s) then it's something to put on the bucket list. Nearest natural thing to the sound of a full and fast rollercoaster Sometimes they miss you so close you feel the waft of air as they go past

I love these basses. Great restoration project, Grangur

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476684551' post='3156182'] I suspect the 0.02uF is a consequence of the Gibson notch filter design intention rather than a 'standard' tone capacitor. Do you know what the inductance of your choke is?. I would be interested in modelling what the circuit is intended to do. [/quote] The full primary is 1.5H (I have the data sheet and will look at the other coil and option details also). The resistor is 100k

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476651374' post='3156058'] Choke capacitor 0.02 uF which translates to 20nF. I wonder if a 20pF would have any audible effect (it is too late in the evening to do the maths out and work it out ). Soundclips awaited [/quote] Thanks, 3below Glad you posted this. The 0.02uF is one of the 'standard' tone values? I thought the one I'd put on the board was the same (pretty sure it was out of a PRS), but looking closely, it's marked 0.22uF. Weird! Anyway, I'll swop it for a 0.022uF orange drop in the morning just in case

Phew - nice to have a sit down I've been standing up in my cellar / workshop pretty much all day. Some of these 'little jobs' take so long! Made decent progress, though. The c****d up tuner positions have been corrected with only a modest angle of the E and G strings (ignore the cobbled up nut - waiting for the brass nut to arrive): Control and pickup chambers have been screened and earthed: The wiring diagram has been redrawn in component form: ...and all but the p/ups themselves have been wired up: I've got to insulate the couple of veroboards with the notch filter components, but then just solder the pickup hot and grounds in Everything here is earthed via the copper screening - including the bridge. It makes for a much tidier control chamber! I've got grave doubts that I have the correct value of capacitor in the notch filter (I think I may have mixed up my nanos and picos) but that is a 5 minute swop of components if it's wrong). I should be able to try out the sounds tomorrow

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1476552561' post='3155177'] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Witch...WITCH!!! Burn the witch!![/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Another amazing piece of work Andy...that finish is beautiful...I'm sure that if Pete isn't happy there'll be a queue of BCers happy to take it off your hands.[/font][/color] [/quote] It's turned out not half bad hasn't it, Mick

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476552764' post='3155180'] Alternate zero fret / nut thought. You could widen the zero fret slot to (3mm? 1/8" ?) and fit a Fender type nut at the zero fret. Not in keeping with the EB3 vibe but probably a simpler solution. If you used black acetal (aka Delrin) it would not stand out much and could be followed by whatever nut you were originally planning. Other alternatives to acetal could be nickel silver or brass plate. If this was slotted (and probably glued) in it could be levelled and crowned. Apart from the side view in the fingerboard it would present as a higher fret, same frontal profile and appearance. [/quote] Decent thought but I think I will just go for a nut. As I say, if the fretboard slotting hadn't had the zero fret datum, I'd have done that happily enough anyway. That way I can also ignore that the fretboard itself is probably lower than it should be and fit it in the time honoured way of measuring the gap at the 1st fret when fretted at the second On that basis, I have ordered a brass nut that should be with me early next week. I've tru-oil slurry and buffed the neck, I've smoothed, oiled and buffed the ebony fretboard and I've final-polished the body and so I THINK it's just the electrics to do now... This coming week should see completion

In our old gits five-some, I play rhythm guitar, alto sax and tenor sax. But the last 5 numbers, Pete the bassist passes me his bass and plays lead (very well, too). I LOVE it! It's my favourite bit of the gig. I'm no bassist but you get into the driving beat. Very, very satisfying

[quote name='CaptainBlackarm16' timestamp='1476400490' post='3154070'] Would you be up for it mate? Ive seen some of your work is stunning... [/quote] I'd love to say yes, but relicing is something I've never tried and I have a principle not to experiment on other people's instruments - I would always try out new techniques and approaches on my own basses and guitars first.... WezV is very approachable - I really do think he's your best first point of call. If it's not for him, I know he has a very wide contact group...

Onto fret levelling, crowning and polishing - and a mystery solved The levelling and crowning is pretty standard stuff. I straightened the neck (nice to confirm that the truss-rod works ), then levelled with a combination of a full length beam and a shorter diamond file and finishing off with a radius block with 800 grit on it: Then crowned with a hosco crowning file, wrapped in various grades of micro web from 1500 to 12000 grit: The mystery solved is that, having missed out the zero fret from the levelling, I expected the levelled frets to balance out the 1st fret buzz. Nah..........and on further investigation, the zero fret is at least 0.5mm lower than the levelled first fret. All the frets are fully seated so I suspect that when I was sanding the fretboard radius, I fell into the 'rocking either end' error in my sanding motion technique. The impact of this at the nut end is greatly exaggerated because it is that much thinner. 2nd schoolboy error on this build I have a choice to either replace the zero fret with a very tall one (if they do them that tall!) or just fit a standard nut. I'll have a ponder on that one - only really went for zero fret because the slot was already there and in someways, as you need a string positioning nut anyway, it would be easier to fit a standard nut now that I have to change it anyway. Despite the (fairly usual) batch of de-snagging issues, I'm still pleased with this build and I know Pete is going to be very happy with it. Going to try to sort the electrics this weekend That'll test pretty comprehensively whether Andyjr1515 knows his choke-based notch filters from his elbow! (and the answer is probably a resounding NO! )

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1476419874' post='3154094'] Lovely job as usual Andy. [/quote] Thanks, Stuart

WezV on this forum (not sure how active but you can also contact him on The Fretboard forum) is a very experienced and skilled builder and finisher. Some of the recent relic work I've seen has been superb. I'm pretty sure he lives in Burton-on-Trent

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476391793' post='3153979'] Hard to tell from the pictures, Is the extender bar pulling firm against the metal of the bridge and not indirectly into the body? I found I had to be careful with my home made one, it seemed very easy to ding the body with the bar and the ball ends (mine were not significantly countersunk). It was a wise move not attempting the recessed bridge approach, in that route (pun intended) lay potential disaster. [/quote] No - I had a brief flash of clarity and set it so it's level with the bottom The one good thing about the three pointer (there had to be one good thing!) is that the front can still be screwed right down so the action was still low enough. Yes - sinking the bridge would have been,,,,er....bold

OK - I think we have a workable solution for the three pointer. I've got a bit more filing to do, but basically it has gone like this: On average, the bridge was 4.5mm too high. Being a fixed neck, the standard solution of adjusting the neck angle is clearly not an option. Sinking the whole bridge into the body - a la Warwick - was a non-preferred option because it would be really tricky to do without it looking like a bodge. A new bridge? Yes, possibly, but if possible I wanted at least a passing nod to the original - especially since so much else is nothing like it (cue me passing the finished bass to Pete, "Here is your Jack Bruce replica, Pete (based on Pete's non-comprehending look, tries to stifle sniggers). No - trust me....the old photos are a bit misleading...it was JUST like that in real life!") So the first approach to try was to slot the saddles 4.5mm deeper. I used a triangular needle file and appropriate sized nut file, rounding off the corners with a round needle file The next challenge is break angle. I filed an appropriate angle onto the back of the saddle, but with the standard clasps, there would be almost no back angle. I could drill it for back loaded ferrules, but thought I'd try the extender that John (our very own 6feet7) very kindly sent to me 'just in case' (and wouldn't even take the postage for it...what a forum...what a great guy ) I haven't filed the back of the bridge yet to relieve the strings - and so the strings are still too flat in this shot - but I can already tell that the extender bar is in the right position to give it the required angle It's a lovely piece of machined steel, too - thanks again John! The action has been transformed and the strings are ringing out clear and beautifully I think it's a goer. I also think it looks fine: Don't worry that the strings seem to be a bit offset - the positioning nut isn't glued in and was a bit skew with the differential pull of the strings. This evening's jobs will be filing that bridge relief angle and fret levelling. It's all starting to get quite close

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1476307416' post='3153292'] That should be fine, I use 10 as my standard and I believe Rickenbacker use 6 degrees. [/quote] Excellent

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1476305215' post='3153269'] What angle did you go for? Gibsons tend to be excessive (usually 14 or even 17) and there's really no need for such a steep angle. [/quote] It's 8 degrees. I think I read somewhere that 7 degrees is the lowest angle for practical purposes. The one that might be an issue is the bottom E where there isn't much of a run before it gets to the tuner. Then again, it might be fine

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1476288847' post='3153086'] If the zero fret isn't doing its thing properly, is that not just a case of cutting the slots a little deeper in the nut to allow the string to 'break' over the zero fret? [/quote] No - it's firm against the zero fret. As you say, with a zero fret, the nut is cut fully deep as it is just providing lateral positioning and not vertical. I think Manton Customs has probably explained the causes of what I'm experiencing above. There is, having said that, the possibility of a slight issue with the nut area - for a bit of a construction-related experiment, I have left the headstock angle at pretty much the minimum that would normally be recommended. I was aware this might prove to be a bit too shallow for a decent break angle. No point in assessing it until the other bits relating to the set up are sorted. There are a number of ways round it if it is an issue. ....and you all thought this was one of my more conventional builds

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476295923' post='3153174'] Hipshot supertone 3 point bridge fitted to SG bass: Baseplate is 7.95mm E & G string, 8.65mm A & D string. Saddles are 7.7mm deep (base to bottom of saddle notch). Approx 15 mm will be the lowest string height above the body (body to underside of string at saddle). Hope this is of some use. [/quote] That's great info, 3below - thank you very much Hopefully it won't take you 6 months to get all the heights back to 'just right' after fiddling with it for me

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1476291212' post='3153119'] As you've found out, the zero fret should be a fraction higher, just as a nut slot is a fraction higher. This is because of the way the neck arcs (or doesn't) around the first fret. So a little bit of "relief" is needed from the zero fret, as the truss rod won't provide it in this area very effectively. Simple to fix though, just don't level the zero when you do the others, if that doesn't give enough clearance just pull it and install a higher fret. It's looking great and no build is complete without a few obstacles to overcome [/quote] Ah - that makes sense. I thought it might just be my rubbish fret job As you say, when I do the levelling, I'll leave the zero fret alone. Thanks for the feedback Andy

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476223024' post='3152544'] Side angle on strings prevents rattling / spurious vibration in nut slots ☺ Measurements to follow on return to Mid Wales. Are you contemplating a routed recess for the whole bridge to lower into 📥? That would be very skilled and brave 🚫 The zero fret is an interesting issue. Logically (unless I am missing something) the zero fret is no different to any other fret in the near vicinity. Why does the zero fret need to be higher but the first fret does not? Is the amplitude difference between zero and first fret that great? [/quote] You are quite right about the zero fret. It's that logic why I've always used the same height for 6-string electrics and, logically, it must hold true also for basses. Maybe I've just got a high spot on fret 1...I haven't levelled them yet. I've discounted the possibility of recessing for the bridge...a sure way for it to end in tears with this particular shape. The thought is to slot the saddles (prob need about 3mm) and the go for the tried and tested through body stringing. That's why measuring a replacement bridge could be useful

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476202148' post='3152269'] Looking good, commiserations about the blunder. I keep hoping I will not drop a serious one in my build. I could measure the lowest and highest string height available on my supertone 3 pointer if that would help. Am away from bass until Weds. [/quote] Actually, 3below, a check of the lowest height would be very useful as a fallback in case my fiendish idea comes to nothing. Later in the week is fine...still got plenty to do With a slight compromise to allow the outer strings to bend a bit from the nut, I might also have sorted the tuners with an invisible fix!

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1476206372' post='3152345'] As for the 3 point bridge? Cest la vie...you gave it a go and it wasn't to be (Phew ) [/quote] Actually....I have a fiendish idea....I'm going to check it out tomorrow....the three pointer [i]might [/i]be staying....

OK - first the bullsh*t photo, then the truth.... This is looking pretty good? Wrong! There are presently a number of fatal flaws, some unfortunate, some where I deserve all I get and some where you all roll your eyes and say 'told you!' In no particular order:[list] [*]Yes - the three-pointer is rubbish and has got to go. Yes, yes, I know . Let me drop my defences and say "You were all right and it wasn't even worth trying it" . Main issue is - in unexpected ways - it sits too high. And to sort it would be major, major surgery. I'll go to plan B and go for a standard flat, chunky bridge that should cover all the evidence [*]The zero fret needs to be a little higher than the standard frets. For 6-string electrics, I always use the same fret height (many builders put in a higher one even on these) but on a bass, the bottom E just doesn't have enough clearance to let it do its stuff without buzzing [*]Total, idiotic schoolboy error. Two of the tuners are in the wrong place. Plotted the string runs for zero deflection like a good boy; put the pilot hole the wrong side of the peg, like an eejit I'll have to see if it will hide without having to replace the headstock plate... [/list] The good news is that total weight is around 8lb 6oz and it is going to balance on the strap beautifully.... And it does look rather splendid....

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1476135447' post='3151738'] I would have a bit of fun and make that dial go all the way up to 11 [/quote] Well, in the old gits 5 piece, Pete, being the bass player, will be quite stunned that he has two more than the 4 he was expecting. Paul the lead guitarist, on the other hand, would have expected 11 as a basic right

Cut the holes for the controls...and for the infamous 3-pointer : Actually, although there's a twist drill in the shot, all the lead-in holes were done with a Forstner and then expanded where necessary with a twist drill (don't have an 11.5mm forstner!) Here it is mocked up, with the three-pointer fully fitted. Yes - I know... :