Andyjr1515

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476391793' post='3153979'] Hard to tell from the pictures, Is the extender bar pulling firm against the metal of the bridge and not indirectly into the body? I found I had to be careful with my home made one, it seemed very easy to ding the body with the bar and the ball ends (mine were not significantly countersunk). It was a wise move not attempting the recessed bridge approach, in that route (pun intended) lay potential disaster. [/quote] No - I had a brief flash of clarity and set it so it's level with the bottom The one good thing about the three pointer (there had to be one good thing!) is that the front can still be screwed right down so the action was still low enough. Yes - sinking the bridge would have been,,,,er....bold

OK - I think we have a workable solution for the three pointer. I've got a bit more filing to do, but basically it has gone like this: On average, the bridge was 4.5mm too high. Being a fixed neck, the standard solution of adjusting the neck angle is clearly not an option. Sinking the whole bridge into the body - a la Warwick - was a non-preferred option because it would be really tricky to do without it looking like a bodge. A new bridge? Yes, possibly, but if possible I wanted at least a passing nod to the original - especially since so much else is nothing like it (cue me passing the finished bass to Pete, "Here is your Jack Bruce replica, Pete (based on Pete's non-comprehending look, tries to stifle sniggers). No - trust me....the old photos are a bit misleading...it was JUST like that in real life!") So the first approach to try was to slot the saddles 4.5mm deeper. I used a triangular needle file and appropriate sized nut file, rounding off the corners with a round needle file The next challenge is break angle. I filed an appropriate angle onto the back of the saddle, but with the standard clasps, there would be almost no back angle. I could drill it for back loaded ferrules, but thought I'd try the extender that John (our very own 6feet7) very kindly sent to me 'just in case' (and wouldn't even take the postage for it...what a forum...what a great guy ) I haven't filed the back of the bridge yet to relieve the strings - and so the strings are still too flat in this shot - but I can already tell that the extender bar is in the right position to give it the required angle It's a lovely piece of machined steel, too - thanks again John! The action has been transformed and the strings are ringing out clear and beautifully I think it's a goer. I also think it looks fine: Don't worry that the strings seem to be a bit offset - the positioning nut isn't glued in and was a bit skew with the differential pull of the strings. This evening's jobs will be filing that bridge relief angle and fret levelling. It's all starting to get quite close

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1476307416' post='3153292'] That should be fine, I use 10 as my standard and I believe Rickenbacker use 6 degrees. [/quote] Excellent

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1476305215' post='3153269'] What angle did you go for? Gibsons tend to be excessive (usually 14 or even 17) and there's really no need for such a steep angle. [/quote] It's 8 degrees. I think I read somewhere that 7 degrees is the lowest angle for practical purposes. The one that might be an issue is the bottom E where there isn't much of a run before it gets to the tuner. Then again, it might be fine

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1476288847' post='3153086'] If the zero fret isn't doing its thing properly, is that not just a case of cutting the slots a little deeper in the nut to allow the string to 'break' over the zero fret? [/quote] No - it's firm against the zero fret. As you say, with a zero fret, the nut is cut fully deep as it is just providing lateral positioning and not vertical. I think Manton Customs has probably explained the causes of what I'm experiencing above. There is, having said that, the possibility of a slight issue with the nut area - for a bit of a construction-related experiment, I have left the headstock angle at pretty much the minimum that would normally be recommended. I was aware this might prove to be a bit too shallow for a decent break angle. No point in assessing it until the other bits relating to the set up are sorted. There are a number of ways round it if it is an issue. ....and you all thought this was one of my more conventional builds

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476295923' post='3153174'] Hipshot supertone 3 point bridge fitted to SG bass: Baseplate is 7.95mm E & G string, 8.65mm A & D string. Saddles are 7.7mm deep (base to bottom of saddle notch). Approx 15 mm will be the lowest string height above the body (body to underside of string at saddle). Hope this is of some use. [/quote] That's great info, 3below - thank you very much Hopefully it won't take you 6 months to get all the heights back to 'just right' after fiddling with it for me

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1476291212' post='3153119'] As you've found out, the zero fret should be a fraction higher, just as a nut slot is a fraction higher. This is because of the way the neck arcs (or doesn't) around the first fret. So a little bit of "relief" is needed from the zero fret, as the truss rod won't provide it in this area very effectively. Simple to fix though, just don't level the zero when you do the others, if that doesn't give enough clearance just pull it and install a higher fret. It's looking great and no build is complete without a few obstacles to overcome [/quote] Ah - that makes sense. I thought it might just be my rubbish fret job As you say, when I do the levelling, I'll leave the zero fret alone. Thanks for the feedback Andy

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476223024' post='3152544'] Side angle on strings prevents rattling / spurious vibration in nut slots ☺ Measurements to follow on return to Mid Wales. Are you contemplating a routed recess for the whole bridge to lower into 📥? That would be very skilled and brave 🚫 The zero fret is an interesting issue. Logically (unless I am missing something) the zero fret is no different to any other fret in the near vicinity. Why does the zero fret need to be higher but the first fret does not? Is the amplitude difference between zero and first fret that great? [/quote] You are quite right about the zero fret. It's that logic why I've always used the same height for 6-string electrics and, logically, it must hold true also for basses. Maybe I've just got a high spot on fret 1...I haven't levelled them yet. I've discounted the possibility of recessing for the bridge...a sure way for it to end in tears with this particular shape. The thought is to slot the saddles (prob need about 3mm) and the go for the tried and tested through body stringing. That's why measuring a replacement bridge could be useful

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476202148' post='3152269'] Looking good, commiserations about the blunder. I keep hoping I will not drop a serious one in my build. I could measure the lowest and highest string height available on my supertone 3 pointer if that would help. Am away from bass until Weds. [/quote] Actually, 3below, a check of the lowest height would be very useful as a fallback in case my fiendish idea comes to nothing. Later in the week is fine...still got plenty to do With a slight compromise to allow the outer strings to bend a bit from the nut, I might also have sorted the tuners with an invisible fix!

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1476206372' post='3152345'] As for the 3 point bridge? Cest la vie...you gave it a go and it wasn't to be (Phew ) [/quote] Actually....I have a fiendish idea....I'm going to check it out tomorrow....the three pointer [i]might [/i]be staying....

OK - first the bullsh*t photo, then the truth.... This is looking pretty good? Wrong! There are presently a number of fatal flaws, some unfortunate, some where I deserve all I get and some where you all roll your eyes and say 'told you!' In no particular order:[list] [*]Yes - the three-pointer is rubbish and has got to go. Yes, yes, I know . Let me drop my defences and say "You were all right and it wasn't even worth trying it" . Main issue is - in unexpected ways - it sits too high. And to sort it would be major, major surgery. I'll go to plan B and go for a standard flat, chunky bridge that should cover all the evidence [*]The zero fret needs to be a little higher than the standard frets. For 6-string electrics, I always use the same fret height (many builders put in a higher one even on these) but on a bass, the bottom E just doesn't have enough clearance to let it do its stuff without buzzing [*]Total, idiotic schoolboy error. Two of the tuners are in the wrong place. Plotted the string runs for zero deflection like a good boy; put the pilot hole the wrong side of the peg, like an eejit I'll have to see if it will hide without having to replace the headstock plate... [/list] The good news is that total weight is around 8lb 6oz and it is going to balance on the strap beautifully.... And it does look rather splendid....

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1476135447' post='3151738'] I would have a bit of fun and make that dial go all the way up to 11 [/quote] Well, in the old gits 5 piece, Pete, being the bass player, will be quite stunned that he has two more than the 4 he was expecting. Paul the lead guitarist, on the other hand, would have expected 11 as a basic right

Cut the holes for the controls...and for the infamous 3-pointer : Actually, although there's a twist drill in the shot, all the lead-in holes were done with a Forstner and then expanded where necessary with a twist drill (don't have an 11.5mm forstner!) Here it is mocked up, with the three-pointer fully fitted. Yes - I know... :

Oh...and in case you were wondering, yes... the headstock's fine now

The good news is that I've probably done the last gloss coat. After it's fully hardened, I am hoping it will be able to be polished to a high gloss: The bad news - and it's a bit of a shocker - I think I may have to abandon Ronseal No doubt for the good of the environment, the Ronseal Hardglaze changed its formulation around a year ago. It went from 'Very High' volatiles to 'High' volatiles. The difference in use appeared to be subtle and manageable - a little thinner; a little more prone to creating little bubbles. But I've come across the showstopper. It appears to be much less compatible with thinning with white-spirits...essential if using a wipe-one approach. This effect, mentioned and explained earlier: ....always a small issue if the coats were too thick on an un-roughed substrate, seems to happen regardless of the substrate - and to an unuseable degree with the way I work - the more white spirit is used to thin. I was applying the 'final, final very thinned ' coat and it started pulling away like crazy. I brushed it with a very fine laquer brush that had been in some white spirit and it literally globuled. I had to immediately wipe it off. As such, the above hasn't had the final final - although I think it will polish up just fine. Bit of a beggar, though. I will do a few trials on an old body with Rustins Gloss Polyurethane, which I often use as an alternative. It's the same sort of stuff but is a different formulation - even in its lower volatiles version. I think I've used that relatively recently and not suffered the same issue. I'll check it out. I'll also have a try of Chestnut Melamine - can't remember who it is here that uses it but one of our Basschat colleagues does with fantastic results. In the meantime, the EB-3 is ready for the final steps

Personally, I put Tonerider Classic IV's in all mine in preference to p/ups 2 or 3 times the price. But...it depends what sound you are after....

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476049244' post='3150891'] What I have found strange in this build is my obvious mistakes. All have been foreseeable but have still happened. I am working on getting it right 2nd time as I regain long lost skills. [/quote] I find that with the more builds I do, I don't necessarily reduce the number of silly and foreseeable mistakes as much as I simply get better at fixing them afterwards

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1475958487' post='3150142'] Photos tomorrow [/quote] Great - can't wait

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1475955505' post='3150113'] Slow progress, the day job uses time up. Tidied up the 'bad router day' issues. Sliced up various bits of mahogany into 2 / 3mm slices, bandsaw and file to fit the divots. Epoxied in and then routed flat. Started on the bridge, ebony slab planed and chamfered. String holes carefully measured and subsequently drilled. Today's lesson is - if you need reading glasses for close work, you should wear them. I got the measurements and hole locations spot on, not quite that good using the pillar drill making the holes. I should be able to 'lose' the slight misalignment issue. Next up, routing the 3mm bridge slot, have had several trials on this, still not really happy with the quality of what I can attain. [/quote] Any photos, 3below? Don't worry too much about slow progress. Every part of a bit of a job done is a part of a bit closer to finishing

Close...but no cigar, yet. Looking quite good full on: ...but when you look at the reflection, there are too many furrow lines showing: What I DO know, however, is that is is quite close. A further full flattening, followed by progressive micro-web down to around 6000 grit, and I'll try a couple more 'last coats'

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1475910973' post='3149635'] Mine has been gigged most weekends since I've had it, and it's been brilliant. I was a bit worried to take it gigging because of how pristine it was. Once I got over that, it's seen a lot of gigs, and gone through the usual wear and tear. No problem at all. Doesn't dent or damage easier than my other bass. In fact I think it is still completely undamaged. So it's fared well! Always have comments on how "pretty" it is too [/quote] Thanks, Kert (phew!) In terms of the present one, each coat now is 'could this be the final one?' But to be honest it often isn't. This has just been done and is wet, but the reflections are cleaner than previous coats. Trouble is, as it drys, any imperfections start showing through. Now then - for anyone even mildly interested in finishing with polyurethane-type varnishes, sprayed or wiped on - there's a VERY important reason why I'm covering this bit of the process in a bit more detail, and that is [b]the fundamental difference between nitro finishes and poly varnish finishes.[/b] Many of us have seen clip after clip of the buffing down to the final finish. [b]Warning - this absolutely does not work with polyurethane varnish finishes![/b] The difference is simple chemistry. Each new coat of nitro 'melts' into the previously applied coat. As such, the finished coating - maybe 20 coats in all - acts and behaves as one homogeneous layer. Here, therefore, you can then buff, sand and polish down to your desired high gloss finish. Polyurethane coats do [b]not [/b]melt into each other. Therefore, if you do need 20 coats (or 3 or 5 or 7) you will have in the final coating 20 bonded but separate layers. If you then buff or t-cut past the final layer, you will end up with contour lines of each of the layers you are cutting into...and they will not polish out. Therefore the trick is to get the sub surface as smooth as possible and then finish off with a couple of thin top coats that provide the final gloss. Yes - you can polish - and use very mild cutting polishes such as Meguiers Ultimate Compound (t-cut is too abrasive) because that final finish, once cured, is very tough, but the polishing will be of that very top layer. Don't know if that makes sense but it is something that finishing tutorials and discussions often miss full explanations of - and I suspect many attempts have been binned with people buffing, suffering the above effect and thinking they've done something wrong and irresolvable....

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1475875497' post='3149518'] Thinking about it a bit more I'd have drilled the one for the varitone switch since it will have the large surround with the position makers on it which might help disguise any finish blemishes around the hole. [/quote] I could offer a reason why the edge one is better....but it would probably be luthier bulls**t

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1475863486' post='3149391'] Thank you, I had a lovely time reading through that thread again. Lovely outcome there! Do you use a cloth to apply it? [/quote] I use the cheapo microfibre cloths you get in Homebase / Sainsbury's / etc - 4 for £2.00 or something like for applying the ink and the varnish. There's a detailed article on how I go about the varnish [url="http://www.projectguitar.com/tutorials/finishingrefinishing/bedroom-builders-wipe-on-varnishing-r67/"]here on projectguitar.com[/url] [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1475861067' post='3149365'] That finish is looking amazing. I see you have drilled a single hole through the top from the control cavity. Why just the one at this stage? And why that particular one? [/quote] I've just finished off the routing of control chamber depth to finished thickness before the (possibly) final gloss coat. I prefer to varnish without the pot and jack holes because you tend to get streaks as the cloth goes over the holes. However, I also prefer to have at least one through hole before I route the chamber down to 5mm thickness just in case I have my datum or level wrong. It's a lot easier to confirm the thickness when you've got a hole there rather than using calipers or similar. So, the compromise is to have one hole, at the end where a streak shouldn't be too long or obvious. It's the jack hole.

The varnishing is going well. It's a bit unpredictable at this stage - I stop when I think "that's OK" . Sometimes that is after very few coats and sometimes more. It is certainly at least possible that one more coat (ie after just one flattening) might do it. This is the first coat of the top after the first flattening: ...and here's the back after the first coat following the first flattening: What often happens is a smudge, or a sanding mark, or a dust bunny, in which case it will need another flattening and then at least another two top coats. It is at least possible, though, that the varnishing will be complete by the end of the weekend....

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1475836046' post='3149064'] Looking great. Love the finish on this too. Trying to find a reason/justification for another build..... [/quote] Always happy to talk about builds.... By the way, with reference to 6v6's question above, Kert, how do you find the ruggedness of the varnish on your single-cut? You are actually a good point of reference because I know you regularly gig it...and much more than I gig my own (For those of you who didn't follow Kert's single cut build, this had the same Ronseal finishing approach, albeit on unstained wood: