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Everything posted by Andyjr1515
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Normal thing by the way....reds and photos and displays. Looking on my iPad, this looks NOTHING like the real life colour. Trust me....it looks OK in real life
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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1474354159' post='3137255'] Well...the bridge will be almost the last thing I fit so plenty of time still to consider. I spoke at length to a contact who has an EB-3 and he explained the issue with the silks and the extender bar or thru-body remedies. The advantage I have is that I can position the bridge anywhere the saddles will let me. If the G saddle is wound fully forward with a mm just-in-case, the furthest rearward position of the bottom E still can leave enough clearance for the silks...just. I'll ponder a little more and also look at the Hipshot option, 3below Also, 6feet7, if you can locate your extender bar, there's a distinct possibility we might be able to broker a deal if I do go ahead with the Gibson and find that my calls are rubbish.... Thanks for the views, folks...it helps enormously with things like this [/quote] What's the phrase - always have a Plan B? I actually also have a plan C I know the Gibson 3 pointer is ugly and functionally flawed...but it IS at least one visual nod to the original (actually, not quite ref the very original unadjustable bar bridge) on a bass where I've changed almost everything else So the plan is:[list] [*]Start off with the Gibson, positioned as planned with the G saddle fully forward which should - unless D'Addario have change the design of their Chromes - just avoid the silk binding [*]If it needs just that extra bit of space (or maybe/probably in any case) fit the extender bar that 6feet7 is generously sending to me free gratis - what a great forum and a what a great guy [*]If it really is pants to set up and play, order a Hipshot 3 pointer and retro-fit. They have an extra 3/4" at the back, they have adjustable height saddles and they look nicer [/list] Also, good job I checked with Pete about the colour. The colour I was originally going for was the same as my Junior Doublecut: Pete was happy with the depth of colour, but wanted it to be more purple. I tried another ink I already had, a raspberry rather than strawberry shade (the doublecut - also on mahogany - was done with the ink on the left): This gets closer, I think to what he is after: The added advantage is that it is a drawing and calligraphy ink so colour fastness should be pretty much assured...certainly should last Pete out
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[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1474308947' post='3137017'] Swoon - be still my beating heart. Absolutely fantastic! ...however, is there anything that I can say or do that will make you reconsider fitting the 3 point bridge??? An instrument of this quality deserves better [/quote] Well...the bridge will be almost the last thing I fit so plenty of time still to consider. I spoke at length to a contact who has an EB-3 and he explained the issue with the silks and the extender bar or thru-body remedies. The advantage I have is that I can position the bridge anywhere the saddles will let me. If the G saddle is wound fully forward with a mm just-in-case, the furthest rearward position of the bottom E still can leave enough clearance for the silks...just. I'll ponder a little more and also look at the Hipshot option, 3below Also, 6feet7, if you can locate your extender bar, there's a distinct possibility we might be able to broker a deal if I do go ahead with the Gibson and find that my calls are rubbish.... Thanks for the views, folks...it helps enormously with things like this
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For the pickup chambers, I used the forstner bit rough-out and chisels rather than router. Both pickups have generous pickup rings so it doesn't need to be pristine but also, little be little, I'm getting better at sharpening and using chisels! First the roughing-out: Note the control wires chamber routed before I put the top on. Then a tidy up with a couple of sizes of sharp stubby chisels and a mallet: and.....done Tonight I'll be checking with Pete that what he terms as Cherry Red is what I term as Cherry Red and, all being well, I should be able to start initial staining and finishing later this week
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If anyone is wondering how Pete will reach the top fret... The original EB-3 was a 20 fret bass at 30.5" scale. This one is 22 frets at 34" scale and with the bridge set rearward to reduce neck dive. Although you can actually quite easily reach the 21st fret, the extra two frets were really put there so that the gap between the bridge and neck pickup could be proportionately close (although probably won't make any perceptible sonic difference) but that visually the neck pickup remained close to the end of the fretboard for at least a passing nod to the look of the original. Luckily Pete rarely tries to reach the 22nd fret on his present basses...
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[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1474289817' post='3136827'] Lovely looking bass - more great work Andy....obviously Mrs R doesn't read this forum otherwise your voice may just get one octave higher... [/quote] Hi, Mick....I have to watch out for the eye in the back of her head, though.....
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Major domestic duty backlog is back under control and we've had our few days away in beautiful but very, very wet Florence so there should be nothing stopping me now other than the normal distractions and infirmities Yesterday managed to finish off the headstock plate - gluing in the inlays with z-epoxy mixed with fine ebony sanding dust: It makes the bass start looking like a bass:
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[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1474027483' post='3135082'] At the rate you are progressing with this build I'd have thought Swift's were more appropriate than Swallows? Lovely work by the way, can't wait until I have time to get back to building stuff myself. [/quote] ...which is just as well as they are swifts I'd better put that down as 'must get better at drawing', then
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[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1473795072' post='3133226'] Niiiiiice I think the Headstock will look great, and will work better with straight string pulls. P.S. Just seen the latest post . . . Hope you have mapped out the clearance between the tuner pegs & those inlays. P.S.P.S. I assume you have! [/quote] Happily, yes. They're fine
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While MrsAndyjr1515 was busy preparing her next set of spells, I sneaked out and did a bit more... I pencilled out and jeweller's sawed out a trio of swifts: Then laid them out and pencilled round them on the ebony: Then got as far as setting the router depth before I was called to stir the cauldron... Oh well....it'll have to wait until Sunday
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[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1473775616' post='3133022'] So, having got back to the UK at the weekend, I finally got to play the bass. I really am over the moon with it. The bass plays beautifully and sounds great. The neck repair and the handy addition of the control cavity cover have been done very well indeed. It was, essentially, a paperweight before Andy worked on it. Now I can't put it down. Sincere thanks for doing this Andy. I cannot recommend your work enough. [/quote] Thanks, Stuart - means a lot
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Slow progress this week - many domestic duties to fulfil and no building likely until the end of the weekend. Mind you, I can still snatch the odd moment to plan the next bit The headstock will have an ebony headplate and I will add the swifts logo before I cut it to shape and attach it. It's a familiar shape but slightly modded to make sure I can maintain straight string runs:
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No idea what it is, but it's a very pretty piece of wood, Bastav
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Excellent work, 3below I also basically do the neck profiles by eye and feel. I actually rough out with a spokeshave first but pretty quickly move onto the humble scraper. Much more controllable and, as you say, it really doesn't take long. The bit where I'm a bit unconventional is that I do the final, final scraping once the bass is finished and all strung up. Then I can really feel whether it plays comfortably. I'm very impressed with your build - top notch
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Thanks, folks Very much appreciated I spent most of today sorting out my new-found cellar space. Having said that, the provision of a proper workbench that's also not on the back patio means that an hour before tea this evening allowed me to:[list] [*]slim down some neck offcut to 12.5mm [*]add a sliver of the wenge veneer [*]glue as wings to the headstock [*]plane and rasp down to size (allowing for a 3mm ebony headstock plate) [/list] Here are the wings in place: That's one job ticked off the finish list
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[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1473537108' post='3131120'] I like the veneer pinstripe under the fingerboard. I've seen it on fancy banjo necks, but not on a bass. [/quote] Thanks I thought I'd created a new 'feature' when I did this on the acoustic build I did last year. Then I met Jez (Jabba_the_Gut) at the bass bash and realised the he does it on all of his basses. His are masterful too...I'm pretty sure the stripe carries on under the nut and headstock. Wonderful stuff Jez - got a photo or two to show everyone?
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[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1473532191' post='3131070'] Is this your best yet, Andy? I am transfixed... [/quote] You are most kind, Paul While every build gets some aspect a little bit better than the previous one ( this one definitely is the best for half decent gap-free joints !) but I think Kert's (FuNkShUi) camphor single cut will take some beating
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de afwerking mk6-6s & mk6-g6 - blablas is doing a double build
Andyjr1515 replied to blablas's topic in Build Diaries
Beautiful job -
[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1473291060' post='3128859'] I think it's a trick of my dodgy photo, the wings are solid (I've stripped the back and most of the sides now) [/quote] In that case maybe mahogany (or similar species). If it's as heavy as hell, it might even be iroko? Whatever - those look to be mighty fine woods. I reckon a clear/natural finish of some description should be there amongst your considered options...
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Wonderful. Love this kind of thing.
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Fretboard has been radiused to 12" using a wooden radius block. Still got to tweak the body join on the treble side for those eagle eyes amongst you : ...and the rough carve of the neck has been done using shinto rask, spokeshave and cabinet scrapers. Didn't take too long - about half the time as a very simple question to the vodafone webchat helpdesk: I will be rounding off the heel transition a bit more and have still got some tidying up to do near the volute, but the basic profile and thickness are in place.
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[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1473324314' post='3129011'] Ooh, this is getting really good now. Love your build threads, Andy. [/quote] Thanks ezbass
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[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1473280462' post='3128725'] Loving this build, also loving your truss rod method. [/quote] Thanks, White_Cloud ! Fretboard is now on: I repeated what I did for the recent dreadnought acoustic - putting a maple veneer between the fretboard and neck - at that time smugly thinking it was a 'new Andyjr1515 feature' only to find at a basschat meeting that Jabba has been doing that for years ... and doing it much better than me Anyway, this is the difference it makes: When it's carved and varnished, it adds a definite touch of class.
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Interesting Much more likely to be ash than oak. In terms of the wings, is that a veneer on top? The edges look much lighter...
