Andyjr1515

It's beginning to feel like the home straight Last night sorted the nut and shielded the cavities: This morning, electrically connected all the cavities together (easily forgotten!) : Also lowered the bridge a tad and then earthed it. Jack socket has arrived this morning so this afternoon, going to see if / where the electrics are going to fit. After that, I can sort the lowest the pickups can drop to, then how thin the covers can be, then work out how am I going to fix them in place, then 'satin' the neck and then clean up / oil the ebony, and then I think it's done

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1453422248' post='2959479'] It is a beautiful instrument Andy. When you did the Hayman headstock refinish you had Evostik wood adhesive, on this build you are using Titebond. I notice that a lot of luthiers use Titebond. Is there any reason you choose Titebond over the others and which Titebond did you use on the build? [/quote] Thanks, Chienmortbb! It's a case of specific properties for specific jobs. I use Titebond original for most of my builds. There are other good glues about, but this is pretty much the 'standard'. It grabs quickly and dries hard, which makes it easier to sand. It also has good gap filling properties. For longer fiddly jobs, I use the Titebond Extend, that gives 10-15 minutes extra before getting too dry to use. For veneer, ironed on, I need easy to apply thinly, dry quickly but with flexibility and fast and low temperature melt. I find the Evostic version of what is basically standard white PVA ideal. However, for general build, it doesn't grab quite as well and doesn't dry quite as hard or fill gaps quite as fully. Interestingly, Titebond do a 'cold press' veneer glue. Probably thinner but haven't tried it either for cold application or iron on. I'm sure there are valid alternatives for both needs, but it's a case of when you find something that works, there's less incentive to change. Hope this helps

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1453408587' post='2959338'] Just amaze-bops!!! I could imagine a headless version of this design looking rather tasty also. [/quote] Before anyone asks - [i]none[/i] of you could afford it... ...I would make absolutely sure none of you could afford it

[quote name='blablas' timestamp='1453394555' post='2959126'] Looks fantastic! The only thing I'm not really fond of are those gigantic pickup covers, way too big for the design of the bass to my taste. [/quote] Thanks, blabas With the quality and innovation in your own builds, your feedback means a lot The covers will look better when they are lower to the body but there is a lot of area to cover a 'P' split pickup (there's only a couple of mm extra for the seatings) and my mockup didn't look at all right with the option of a smaller one for the 'J'. I wasn't too sure about them when they were plain camphor, but I'm pleased with the ebony inset - it's the old addage that if you've got to have it, then you may as well flaunt it

Thanks, folks I know what this looks like, so I shouldn't need to keep looking at it, but here's the latest mock-ups: What I'm now doing is sorting the pickup heights to allow the pickup covers to have adequate clearance without losing too much of the signal strength. It will be helped by the splendid Seymour Duncan powered EQ - allowing both bass and treble boost through passive pickups. But the covers are big and need to be as low as possible to keep out of the way of the strings and the player. What I will do is rig up all of the electrics, set the pickup heights at their minimum practical through an amp, and then slim down the covers until they are just short of resting on the p/ups. By the way, Kert was keen that - even though this is a single cut - the weight was minimised. It's one of the reasons for such a large back chamber that will nevertheless only be housing a standard Jazz pickup. I'm pleased with the result. All up, it is sitting at 7 3/4 lb (3.5 kilo). That's lighter than my Squier!

I'm onto the final tasks. The most critical one is the bridge positioning and fixing. This really is a case of "measure 15 times and drill once". The tape is to protect the varnish and to avoid the bridge sliding around during the measuring process! And then the really, really scary bit - putting the strings on and tightening them up! So, in terms of the basic checks:[list] [*]Did the neck break? No [*]Did the truss rod break out of the back? No [*]Did I put the right scale length on and the bridge in the correct position? Yes [*]Will it tune up correctly? Yes [*]Is the neck relief correct? Yes [*]Is the action OK? Yes It's actually pretty spot on to my recommended minimum heights. However, the saddles are fully down at the moment so, if Kert wants a super low 'buzzy' action (some players do) I'll check whether the pickups pull them down to any great degree and, if not, file off a touch off the bottoms of the saddles. [*]Is the nut OK? Yes That, on the other hand, is at the top of the adjust-a-nut's travel, so I will pop a sliver to raise the bottom plate a touch before I glue it. I really love adjust-a-nuts. It gives you a degree of control that filing nut slots never does [*]Does it sound OK? Yeeeessssss Actually, it's quite loud acoustically - MUCH louder than my bubinga fretless [/list] Next jobs: Drill hole for bridge earth; trial-fit pups; copper shield cavities; final-fit covers; install electrics; check Kert's preference for neck final finish and 'satinise' if required once the varnish is fully hard

[quote name='deksawyer' timestamp='1453322391' post='2958500'] Andy, I've read a lot of your build posts, but I have to say I've never noticed the shine before. Amazing. I'm considering a refin on my Stingray body - would you be willing to take that on at all, albeit NOT [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]under duress but WITH suitable cautionary words to manage expectations? [/font][/color] Not sure of colours but its natural ATM. And BTW, it's the very first time I've considered having it refinished.... cheers D. [/quote] PM'd deksawyer Andy

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1453324785' post='2958536'] Thanks for this Andy. I've been wondering what to do with an 80s bass with a ply body. You've got me thinking now. [/quote] Why not have a go . You know you want to

Happy New Year and welcome back!!!!! Looking forward to seeing the progress....

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1453294842' post='2958144'] Andy you are a star. I am just about to finish my bass and this is brilliant. I have a couple of questions, 1. What grit do you sand the body to? 2. Can you varnish straight over wood dye or do you need to seal it first? BTW have you tried Rustins Plastic Coating? Thanks [/quote] I've never tried Rustins Plastic Coating...it can produce excellent results but can go horribly wrong too. Also there are some modern water based varnishes that are actually CLEAR and dry properly hard, (although some of the better ones are only available in industrial quantities). I have it in mind to do some experimenting this summer. In the meantime, this technique does me OK with my limited facilities...

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1453294842' post='2958144'] Andy you are a star. I am just about to finish my bass and this is brilliant. I have a couple of questions, 1. What grit do you sand the body to? 2. Can you varnish straight over wood dye or do you need to seal it first? BTW have you tried Rustins Plastic Coating? Thanks [/quote] Hi, Chienmortbb Thanks! I usually take any ridges or debris down with 1000 grit used wet, and ditto for the final flattening, but then take it to 2000 grit used wet before the final few finishing coats. You can seal first or not - in the latter case, it will take 4-5 coats before the true gloss gets there on any end grain. The nice thing is that it is pretty un-reactive - I varnish over plain wood, stained wood, painted wood, primed wood, sanding sealed wood, tru-oil, other varnish, etc, quite happily and personally have never had anything react badly (except, of course, trying to varnish over wax polish or silicon!). Andy

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1453212138' post='2957437'] Interesting - I hear you about the dust. Do you cover the instrument, or just put it in a room where nothing is allowed to deposit dust while it drys? It does seem to be a very good method - I'll probably do some test pieces using this method in the coming months - I think it should produce very acceptable results with great care. [/quote] Just sensible precautions. I try to use a room that hasn't been occupied for an hour or so; take off jumper; roll sleeves up; approach body from each side rather than leaning across it; exiting room slowly (especially door) when varnish applied and leaving room undisturbed for the first 3/4 hour or so...oh...and not letting the f*****g cat get in there!

[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1453213357' post='2957451'] Im keen to try this method aswell, seems to be working very well for you in any case. Do you do front and back all at once or one side at a time? [/quote] Hi, Bastav When it's a bolt on neck, I bolt the body onto a long piece of timber and clamp that in the workmate so I can do all 4 surfaces at the same time. Much easier to avoid runs that way. With a thru neck, it's one side at a time but taking as much care that there are no runs as possible. With wipe on, holding the body horizontally is much more successful than hanging vertically as is more normal for spray finishes.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1453153353' post='2956974'] Looks very nice indeed! Care to share any more details on your finishing process? I've sprayed guitars with both poly and nitro in the past (with a proper compressor/spray gun) and the finish you've achieved is easily as good if not better - no mean feat given the time of year! I've got a bass to refinish and there's no chance I'll even attempt it before about June when it warms up because I also have to work outside or in a cold shed! [/quote] Wipe-on [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/277188-wipe-on-varnishing/"]finish thread is here[/url]

Hi I've had a number of queries about my slightly unconventional approach to gloss finishes. Rather than posting links to threads on other forums, I thought it might be of interest to some of you to cut and paste one of my other threads on the topic here: I use a wipe-on technique for varnishing, using standard old-fashioned household polyurethane varnish. I don't have anywhere satisfactory indoors to spray either cans or spray-guns and needed to find a method that I could in in a spare room rather than having to wait for a dry, still, insect and pollen-free day everytime I wanted to finish a bass or guitar There are a few plus's and minus's:[list=1] [*]It will never look [i]quite[/i] the same as a well applied and properly buffed spray finish [*]It isn't as tough as a commercial poly finish - but it is tough! [*]You can put a couple of coats on per day (One 1st thing in the morning and one in the early evening) [*]For a wood or veneer finish it produces a very acceptable result [*]For a plain colour (just done one in the finisher's nightmare - gloss black), it takes a number of tips and tricks to get it OK (but refer back to point 1!) [*]There are some important differences - the main being that you DO NOT buff to a final finish....in fact you CAN NOT buff to a final finish. The technique is different because the chemistry is different. More on this later.. [/list] The kit I use is simple: Ronseal Hardglaze or Rustins Clear Polyurethane varnish; White Spirits to thin it; hence the jam jar; rubber glove; cheap, disposable microfibre cloths. I am still using the original 'high volatiles' varnishes - simply because I haven't experimented enough with some of the more modern low volatiles ones. That's a summer project for me... I'm sure you have, but if you haven't yet discovered micro-fibre cloths, it's worth doing so. They are:[list] [*]Generally dirt cheap (except the specialist ones, see below) I think these were less than a fiver for 4 in Homebase. [*]COMPLETELY dust free and lint free - but never cut them otherwise there's bits everywhere [*]Soft and fluffy, very absorbent for the varnish [/list] I use one more type of micro-fibre cloth, a particular type, as the best 'tack rag' I've ever used. It's a window-cleaning cloth and I think it cost about £6. My dust bugs issues have vanished since going from decorators sticky tack rags to this: The technique is simple:[list] [*]thin varnish with about 30% white spirits [*]don rubber glove [*]wipe over surface with micro-fibre 'tack rag' [*]take corner of cheapo micro-fibre cloth [*]dip in thinned varnish, squeeze out excess [*]wipe on [/list] This is a heavily figured veneered top after about 5 coats (over 2 days)...note that I'm doing it over a CARPET!! Actually, I forgot to put the newspaper down but got away with it. It only drips if you major-ly overcharge the cloth: Although I said above that it's not the best way for a plain sprayed colour, it still isn't terrible...PaulS of this parish persuaded me (under duress and suitable cautionary words to manage expectations ) to do him a gloss black body...the most challenging of any colours: There are some important tips and tricks, like with everything. I'm sure there are others, but these come to mind:[list] [*]Wipe with a good quality 'tack rag' (see above for my recommendation) to ensure the surface is dust free. Try to keep dust to a minimum! Remember spray finishes dry within seconds...this takes an hour or so and plenty of time for the dust buggies to land and sink in [*]Apply multiple thin coats. Maximum 2 per day (one in morning and one in evening) [*]Flatten with 1000 grit, used wet, every 6 or so coats [*]After 5-6 days, there should be sufficient thickness. Let it cure for at least 3 -5 days [*]Flatten with 1000 grit used wet (if necessary) and finish with 2000 grit used wet [*]Ensure varnish is properly thinned...maybe go up to 40% thinners at this stage. Dip the microfibre in the varnish and squeeze it almost all out then apply a VERY light coat. Let it dry. Apply a second VERY light coat and, if necessary a third. [*]Don't buff - nitro coats 'melt' into previously applied coats. Poly applied like this doesn't do this so buffing will simply wear away the shiny top coat and expose the sanded under coat [*]Leave at least 1 week (2 is better) then polish with good quality, low abrasion auto polish (Macguiers Ultra is a good one) [/list] Hope this helps - if you try the approach let's see how you get on and don't hesitate to contact me Oh - and by the way, it was this present camphor and alder build in Build Diaries that sparked off the interest. Not bad for a pot of household varnish and a cheap rag :

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1453153353' post='2956974'] Looks very nice indeed! Care to share any more details on your finishing process? I've sprayed guitars with both poly and nitro in the past (with a proper compressor/spray gun) and the finish you've achieved is easily as good if not better - no mean feat given the time of year! I've got a bass to refinish and there's no chance I'll even attempt it before about June when it warms up because I also have to work outside or in a cold shed! [/quote] Hi, 6V6 I started doing the wipe-on approach for the same reasons - no workshop, no garage, just the spare bedroom in the house and the outside patio! I've referred to the approach in a number of my threads, but probably worth putting a specific thread into the Repairs and Technical section. I'll cut and paste some stuff I did on another forum and post the link shortly

[quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1452964078' post='2955169'] Cut the scratchplate today from the plastic that was in the back of a notebook - really pleased with it!! I've also done a little bit of rough shaping of the corners. Quite looking forward to seeing how this turns out!! [/quote] I use the same notebook back plastic for all sorts: cutting pads, templates, shims. It's great stuff Never thought of it for a scratch plate, though. Brilliant!

Top drawer stuff Great result...and nice pics Andy

[quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1453155395' post='2957009'] Did some rough sanding to see if this would work and it won't! Shouldn't be too hard to fix - I'll use the router to remove the binding and trim the board a little. Then I'll redo the binding with a little bit more room for error....... [/quote] It's a beggar when you have to redo something like this, but it is always better than a quick fix that, if you're like me, always niggles even if no one else notices...

[quote name='rk7' timestamp='1453112733' post='2956359'] Lovely work! RK [/quote] Thanks, RK ! By the way, folks. Sorry if some of the photos aren't coming through.... Imgur seems to be having some issues this morning!

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1453064316' post='2956127'] Not long now......�� [/quote] Not long at all, Kert It's been a good weekend all round for progress. While the varnish has been drying, I managed to get a bit more done on the dreadnought acoustic 6 string. Did the rosette and soundhole: ...and curved the top braces to the 25' radius: ...and in the last 20 minutes have got the X braces into the go-bar to press the braces and top into the 25' radius dish while the glue dries: So now I'm off downstairs now to have a whisky and continue the warm glow feeling of a successful weekend

Thanks, folks

I fitted the tuners last night. The Hipshot drop D works a treat and the ultra-lites are noticeably lighter: Here's the drop D in 'E' position: ...and in 'D' position: With the frets polished, I couldn't resist a quick mock-up: Always more stuff to do than you think there is, but it really is rapidly coming together now Andy

[quote name='wwcringe' timestamp='1452987723' post='2955406'] The headstock is a crowning glory haha Jokes aside, fab looking bass & I'm keen to hear how it sounds Andy I had one of your instruments out last night (the infamous Afro bodied fretless) and I have to say, soundcheck was one of the best "bass tone" moments of easily the last year! Really excellent, and entirely DI'd so a true testament to the instrument and in particular the 3pce neck you put together for it. Keep up the splendid work! [/quote] Thanks, Tom! I have high hopes of this one too. The SD EQ unit I'm putting in is the same one as my Bubinga fretless. In that one it gives a superb range of tones with a nevertheless straightforward set of controls. Finished the fret dressing last night and fitted the tuners. Not too long now Andy

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1452957533' post='2955069'] Nevermind the whole bass, that headstock is quite beautiful. [/quote] Thanks!