Andyjr1515

I like this build very much

[quote name='Cameronj279' timestamp='1452468106' post='2950292'] I've stayed quiet on this thread but followed the build as it's went along. Very nice work Indeed! [/quote] Thanks, Cameron - and all the other folks who've said nice things about this build

[quote name='Chris Sharman' timestamp='1452467553' post='2950280'] This bass is looking amazing Andy. Now I am back in the working world we may have to have a talk in a bit.... [/quote] Great news...on both counts, Chris

[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1452419672' post='2949693'] Great guide, thanks for that! That guitar is beautiful [/quote] Thanks, Bastav I was pleased with the SG build. It's regularly gigged by one of my old-gits-band members and still looks and sounds great. It was head and shoulders my favourite build.... until Kert's camphor single cut

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1452368413' post='2949370'] brilliant! Thanks for the explanation. The first time you tried fretting, did you balls it up monumentally or is it easier than it seems? [/quote] It went fine .... I just watched every video, read every article, scoured every forum in existence and copied what everybody said [b]to the letter[/b] The SG you may have seen before was my first fret job...thankfully, still playing OK a couple of years or so later (phew!):

[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1452290777' post='2948680'] Looking good! Will follow the fretting closely as that job is coming up for me later on in my build... Im a bit nervous about it tbh [/quote] Hi, Bastav Just a few of the more important hints and tips I've picked up along the way . With the addition of a triangular needle file (of which more later), these are the tools I use: I use the angled diamond file is used to angle the fret-ends after fitting...a bit of a luxury as it can be done with needle files. Having proper ground cutters are more important - it allows you to get right up to the fretboard when you are trimming the excess and are easier to keep sharp. Sharp cutters with decent leverage are quite important so that you are cutting the fretwire and not crushing/distorting it. In terms of preparation, a couple of musts:[list] [*]Make sure the fret slot is deep enough and clear of debris and glue. I use a standard hobby razor saw to do both things. Especially if you have radiused a pre-slotted board, you need to make sure that each side is still deep enough to take the fret tang [*]File the top of the fret slots with a triangular needle file: [/list] Don't go too deep - you are just adding a bit of relief at the very top of the slot to reduce the chance of splitting I buy coiled fretwire: One advantage is that it is therefore already radiused and saves having to buy and use a radiuser Note the little barbs on the tangs - these are quite important relating to how the frets are actually hammered in!: The process I use for inserting the frets is fairly straightforward:[list] [*]Support the neck under where you are going to put the fret on - I use one of Crimson Guitars splendid wooden neck supports [*]Cut a piece of fretwire, allowing c 5mm each side [*]I put a tiny thread of Titebond woodglue along the tangs [*]Press the tang into the fretslot, making sure it is centred and upright [*]Hammer one side of the fret, making sure it is properly seated [*]The hammer down the other side [*]This leaves a raised hump in the middle. This is important. So far, the barbs have gone straight down, furrowing a groove in the wood which would otherwise be capable of furrowing themselves back out again [*]Now hammer down the middle of the fret - this forces the two ends outwards, and thus the barbs now cut [i]sideways[/i] in the slot and securing themselves under firm wood [*]I then wipe the excess glue off with a damp cloth, then place the radius block over the fret and hammer middle and sides a few times to ensure it is fully seated [*]If any more glue has squidged out, I wipe that off too [/list] And that's about it. Leave for the titebond to fully harden, then take off the excess right up to the fretboard with the clippers, ready for filing the ends and levelling, crowning and polishing. Hope this helps Andy

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1452293291' post='2948723'] FuNkShUi must be fairly wetting himself with anticipation right now. [/quote] He is quite excited, yes......

[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1452290777' post='2948680'] Looking good! Will follow the fretting closely as that job is coming up for me later on in my build... Im a bit nervous about it tbh [/quote] Given a few hints and tips, the thought of it is a lot more scary than the doing of it More than happy to post the techniques I've picked up along the way if they are of any interest... Here it is, trimmed and ready for the fret ends to be filed nice and smooth:

[quote name='Harryburke14' timestamp='1452254491' post='2948064'] Does anyone have any experience of buying a bass from Thomann? Juat want to know what they're like for shipping and make sure they don't send a guitar that's bashed up from bad packing and postage. [/quote] My experience has been very good indeed...

With the body now able to take a bit of handling, after the first coats of poly varnish but before the final coats, it is time for the fretting. I re-did the sanding of the fretboard down to very fine grit, checked the slots, opened the tops of the slots slightly with a triangular needle file and started the process: This is pretty much my kit (plus some fairly meaty fret-wire cutters out of picture) I add a fine thread of titebond to the tangs, then hammer one side, then the other side, then the middle, then pop the radius block over and whack that a few times. Lastly, I wipe off the squidged titebond with a damp cloth and use the torch to double check full seating. Here it is done, ready for trimming: I'll leave this overnight for the titebond to fully harden, then trim the ends. Kert has opted for the slightly larger luminlay in blue for the side dots (none going on the top of the fretboard), which I will fit after I've trimmed and angled the fret-ends. Thanks for looking and for your encouraging comments Andy

...also, given a few upgrades, the Harley Bentons seem to be pretty well made at a ridiculous price point. There are a lot of threads that prob give a clue to the better ones amongst their model types...

The Squier VM models are all, in my opinion, great basses for their price point. Some of the Ibanez basses are also worth a look...

[quote name='wwcringe' timestamp='1452179673' post='2947321'] very classy, very nice headstock very AJR...!! Nice one Andy, another fantastic bass in the works. I'd love to hear/play it when finished [/quote] Hi Tom !!! Happy New Year! When are you going to let me re-tweak your neck profile? Yes - really pleased with this one. Some of the finishing coats are going on prior to final sand of the fretboard and then fretting. It's looking better and better: You will have seen the cut out in the headstock....now WHERE would I have got that idea from?

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1452172828' post='2947235'] Thanks chaps, you have saved me some money. Regarding straight edges, is a 600mm steel rule straight enough or do I need an ultra accurate straight edge? [/quote] That's what I use...

Looking nice. Can't remember - what finish will you be going for?

Looking good from here...

That looks nice

I agree with Manton Customs that you don't really need a notched straight edge, but ref G&W, yes, ive used them a few times for different stuff and personally found them reliable and selling decent stuff. The acrylic templates they recently sent me are top notch...

Yup - I'll be there too

[quote name='Matte_black' timestamp='1451853083' post='2944098'] What makes those neck feel huge is the shape, not the front-to-back thickness. Work on sides and you'll be happy. Besides, there's not much material left before you dig into the truss rod routing so don't remove material from the center, if you decide to do it. [/quote] ^^^^ pretty much what Matte_black says. Taking material off the haunches makes a significant difference to the feel of a neck. Nowadays, particularly on my own 6-string guitars, I often use a cabinet scraper to move away from a C profile towards a soft V profile. Makes the neck feel a lot slimmer, but you still have the depth for barre chords and, of course, to stop the truss rod poking out of the bottom. I wouldn't take anything off directly under the truss rod if it was mine. Also, ref your original issue of the neck protruding beyond the fretboard - has it always been like that, or is something moving??

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1452030387' post='2945785'] well, it's VERY effective! I can't see any screws, though. Do these just sit on top with friction after you've set the pickup height? [/quote] Thanks! And no - there will be small screws when it's finished. It would be possible to use magnets, but those might well interfere with the pickups, so small black crossheads is what I'll go for.

[quote name='roman_sub' timestamp='1451985652' post='2945152'] Looking really special :-) [/quote] Thanks, roman Andy

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1451984008' post='2945142'] Once again I'll throw this in, only to be told it doesn't count for some obscure reason [/quote] Absolutely counts as far as I'm concerned

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1451940287' post='2944895'] Wow, this is really coming together. Mind if I ask about your process for pickup covers? [/quote] Thanks, alittlebitrobot To be honest, my process is pretty much 'make it up as I go along'. Basically, I took some offcut of the camphor top, routed out the chambers to within a couple of mm of breakthrough, then cut out the external shape - 3 to 4mm bigger all-round than the chambers - with a fine razor saw. To inset the ebony, I used a dremel with precision router base and a 2.5mm router bit to VERY carefully take off just over a mm of the 2mm top for the thin ebony piece to slot into. This last step was pretty scary! Damn accurate those Dremels can be!!!!

Here's the single cut I'm building for Kert (our very own FuNkShUi ) I always thought of single cuts as interesting but a bit f'ugly, but I'm getting really excited by how I think this one is going to turn out For anyone interested, [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/271204-single-cut-camphor-and-alder-pj/"]the ongoing build thread is here[/url].