Andyjr1515

Blimey, Paul - that's quick work. Looking good . I look forward to seeing it fully reassembled!

I like that, Paul! I particularly like the reverse neck and block inlay combination

I know you're all getting a bit bored with this and just want to see the finished article, but I'm so excited at getting to the closing stages of the varnishing : Goodness - hope it's going to sound OK to match how it's beginning to look! Just applied this morning what MIGHT be the final coat on the back and the neck (you can never be quite sure until it's dried), then leave it a week to harden and then finish the final bits. While the varnish has been drying, I've been progressing the 6-string acoustic build a little bit. It's as surprise 'special' birthday present for our old-gits-band's vocalist. I've got until July to build it, cock it up, rebuild it, wreck it and build it again...should be plenty of time

Lovely job, Ian. I particularly like the slim look of the lower bout.

[quote name='paulnb57' timestamp='1452798780' post='2953654'] Just when you think that looks good, you post those few absolutley stunning photos! I would give you a wow on the other forum, but, well, have a Wow! here! Top drawer stuff there! Paul [/quote] Thanks, Paul Andy

[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1452793769' post='2953594'] Looking good! How much did that camphor top set you back if you dont mind my asking? It really is pretty. [/quote] It was quite expensive - around £150 if I remember correctly

With my slightly odd way of gloss finishing (wipe-on using standard household clear polyurethane varnish), the trick is knowing when to stop. Often you think, "OK, just one more coat" and then it goes horribly wrong . On this basis, for the top, I think it's time to stop: As it happens, the back does genuinely need "just one more coat", which I should be able to do tomorrow. The top will now wait a couple of weeks to harden properly before a final rub over with micromesh and Macguiers. Within a few days, however, it will be hard enough to be handled and so the process of fitting tuners, shielding of cavities, fitting bridge, fret levelling and crowning, fitting p/ups and setting the final thicknesses of the pickup covers should all be able to be completed during next week

Very interesting design. I suspect it will be very comfortable to play...

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1452631415' post='2951913'] Very happy with your work...many thanks... If/when my Ritter sells I may be looking for a headless custom build.....spent the money before I've even got it... [/quote] That would be great...another opportunity for me to make it up as I go along

Hope you sort a solution because, my oh my, that's a neat looking neck job!

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1452621876' post='2951787'] Would it be rude to ask how much this is?? [/quote] Not at all rude for you to ask, Mick... ...but as it is a commissioned build, it would be VERY rude for me to answer Hope the reshaped headstock is still doing the the biz Andy

Final finishing process has started: ...and Luminlays are fitted:

[quote name='paulnb57' timestamp='1452607117' post='2951539'] Me too! Something to aspire to Andy? Just kidding! [/quote] Many a true word, Paul I always look at other people's builds and think "DAMN! I wish I'd thought of that" The last time I thought that big-style, as it happens, was when I saw Jabba's builds at last year's Midlands Basschat bash and thought how much better his builds looked than ANY of mine, particularly with his use of demarcation veneer. Look familiar with yours truly's latest build? : I was stunned at the quality of Jabba's builds that he brought to the bash. Truly inspirational and aspirational! Mind you, Jabba....I'd like to see you beat that camphor

I like this build very much

[quote name='Cameronj279' timestamp='1452468106' post='2950292'] I've stayed quiet on this thread but followed the build as it's went along. Very nice work Indeed! [/quote] Thanks, Cameron - and all the other folks who've said nice things about this build

[quote name='Chris Sharman' timestamp='1452467553' post='2950280'] This bass is looking amazing Andy. Now I am back in the working world we may have to have a talk in a bit.... [/quote] Great news...on both counts, Chris

[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1452419672' post='2949693'] Great guide, thanks for that! That guitar is beautiful [/quote] Thanks, Bastav I was pleased with the SG build. It's regularly gigged by one of my old-gits-band members and still looks and sounds great. It was head and shoulders my favourite build.... until Kert's camphor single cut

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1452368413' post='2949370'] brilliant! Thanks for the explanation. The first time you tried fretting, did you balls it up monumentally or is it easier than it seems? [/quote] It went fine .... I just watched every video, read every article, scoured every forum in existence and copied what everybody said [b]to the letter[/b] The SG you may have seen before was my first fret job...thankfully, still playing OK a couple of years or so later (phew!):

[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1452290777' post='2948680'] Looking good! Will follow the fretting closely as that job is coming up for me later on in my build... Im a bit nervous about it tbh [/quote] Hi, Bastav Just a few of the more important hints and tips I've picked up along the way . With the addition of a triangular needle file (of which more later), these are the tools I use: I use the angled diamond file is used to angle the fret-ends after fitting...a bit of a luxury as it can be done with needle files. Having proper ground cutters are more important - it allows you to get right up to the fretboard when you are trimming the excess and are easier to keep sharp. Sharp cutters with decent leverage are quite important so that you are cutting the fretwire and not crushing/distorting it. In terms of preparation, a couple of musts:[list] [*]Make sure the fret slot is deep enough and clear of debris and glue. I use a standard hobby razor saw to do both things. Especially if you have radiused a pre-slotted board, you need to make sure that each side is still deep enough to take the fret tang [*]File the top of the fret slots with a triangular needle file: [/list] Don't go too deep - you are just adding a bit of relief at the very top of the slot to reduce the chance of splitting I buy coiled fretwire: One advantage is that it is therefore already radiused and saves having to buy and use a radiuser Note the little barbs on the tangs - these are quite important relating to how the frets are actually hammered in!: The process I use for inserting the frets is fairly straightforward:[list] [*]Support the neck under where you are going to put the fret on - I use one of Crimson Guitars splendid wooden neck supports [*]Cut a piece of fretwire, allowing c 5mm each side [*]I put a tiny thread of Titebond woodglue along the tangs [*]Press the tang into the fretslot, making sure it is centred and upright [*]Hammer one side of the fret, making sure it is properly seated [*]The hammer down the other side [*]This leaves a raised hump in the middle. This is important. So far, the barbs have gone straight down, furrowing a groove in the wood which would otherwise be capable of furrowing themselves back out again [*]Now hammer down the middle of the fret - this forces the two ends outwards, and thus the barbs now cut [i]sideways[/i] in the slot and securing themselves under firm wood [*]I then wipe the excess glue off with a damp cloth, then place the radius block over the fret and hammer middle and sides a few times to ensure it is fully seated [*]If any more glue has squidged out, I wipe that off too [/list] And that's about it. Leave for the titebond to fully harden, then take off the excess right up to the fretboard with the clippers, ready for filing the ends and levelling, crowning and polishing. Hope this helps Andy

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1452293291' post='2948723'] FuNkShUi must be fairly wetting himself with anticipation right now. [/quote] He is quite excited, yes......

[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1452290777' post='2948680'] Looking good! Will follow the fretting closely as that job is coming up for me later on in my build... Im a bit nervous about it tbh [/quote] Given a few hints and tips, the thought of it is a lot more scary than the doing of it More than happy to post the techniques I've picked up along the way if they are of any interest... Here it is, trimmed and ready for the fret ends to be filed nice and smooth:

[quote name='Harryburke14' timestamp='1452254491' post='2948064'] Does anyone have any experience of buying a bass from Thomann? Juat want to know what they're like for shipping and make sure they don't send a guitar that's bashed up from bad packing and postage. [/quote] My experience has been very good indeed...

With the body now able to take a bit of handling, after the first coats of poly varnish but before the final coats, it is time for the fretting. I re-did the sanding of the fretboard down to very fine grit, checked the slots, opened the tops of the slots slightly with a triangular needle file and started the process: This is pretty much my kit (plus some fairly meaty fret-wire cutters out of picture) I add a fine thread of titebond to the tangs, then hammer one side, then the other side, then the middle, then pop the radius block over and whack that a few times. Lastly, I wipe off the squidged titebond with a damp cloth and use the torch to double check full seating. Here it is done, ready for trimming: I'll leave this overnight for the titebond to fully harden, then trim the ends. Kert has opted for the slightly larger luminlay in blue for the side dots (none going on the top of the fretboard), which I will fit after I've trimmed and angled the fret-ends. Thanks for looking and for your encouraging comments Andy

...also, given a few upgrades, the Harley Bentons seem to be pretty well made at a ridiculous price point. There are a lot of threads that prob give a clue to the better ones amongst their model types...

The Squier VM models are all, in my opinion, great basses for their price point. Some of the Ibanez basses are also worth a look...