Andyjr1515

Quite a common issue with veneer is splits and parting along the grain. For a highly figured finish, this can be left to enhance the 'real wood' effect like this entry-level Ibanez refinish: But for a maple headstock, it wants to be visual grain pattern and not textural. The filler I like to use is Metalux 'Timbermate' stainable filler for this: I just mix a drop of the stain into the filler and then you are left with a finish-toned fill (eg just south of the D string tuner hole)...the excess sands off easily. In terms of colour, I use wood dye, not stain. The colour choice, though, is trial and error because it is hugely affected by the wood you are applying it to. For Paul S's Shergold, I used Mellow Pine, but on a sample of the maple veneer, that looked shocking! I had a go with Light Oak ... which should have been all wrong ... and have got a very close match Clearly, you need to do a sample with your intended finish applied because that, also, affects the final colour. Here's the before and after on my sample strips: So the first two coats of dye have been applied and are drying prior to the varnishing, which I will cover in the next bit... Thanks for looking! Andy

Blimey, thanks folks....

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1442135979' post='2864533'] This is absolutely fantastic. I've just read the build thread and it's fascinating to see this emerging from great big chunks of wood. [/quote] Thanks! And to all the other kind folk for their encouraging comments

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1442160642' post='2864768'] I've got some excess veneer, a neck, and some evo-stick wood glue identical to yours. I want to give this a go. I would never have thought of some of your tricks such as the paper guide to find the holes and the iron-on technique. [/quote] Hi, Annoying Twit Yes - as you can imagine - learnt from the number of times I got it wrong

For trimming, I use the Stanley disposable knives - sharp enough but also strong enough to 'saw' the veneer, placing the blade at 45 degrees flat against the headstock edge which acts as the blade guide. This means that you get a good close cut, with the minimum vertical pressure on the veneer but with no chance of digging into the headstock: For a headstock, with a bit of care and edge sanding, it doesn't take long to get to this: The through holes are easy, because you can score through from the other side: Then for the position of the hidden holes (and in the case of a body, the chambers), this is where the paper template comes in Next job is to test some stains and varnishes on some scrap veneer so I can see how close to the original colour I can get. But that will have to wait until tomorrow.... Thanks for looking! Andy

As many of you know - for flat surfaces or simple curves (eg arm relief) I use the iron - on technique. The equipment is simple and cheap (I use an old heatshrink iron from my R/C modelling days, but a normal domestic iron does just as well): [list] [*]as already said, normal domestic iron works just as well [*]foam roller and tray not essential but they are dirt cheap and very good for applying a full and even coat of PVA [*]the little squirt bottle (I think it was £1 from superdrug) contains water [*]Standard Evostick PVA wood glue has never let me down so I always use this [/list] Pop some PVA into the tray and apply an even, thin coat to both the headstock (taking particular care at the edges to make sure there's a coverage) and the back of the veneer: Note on the veneer that it starts to curl immediately the wet PVA goes onto it, as that surface expands with the moisture. If you leave it unattended, it will carry on curving and end up looking like a brandy-snap! : A little spray of water on the other side, flattens it off...this has returned to flat entirely by itself: Leave to dry - about 20 mins Don't worry about any bubbles in the glue - they will melt during the ironing process - but DO make sure there are no bits stuck in the glue - they will show through (even tiny ones!) Then it's a quick dashing away with the smoothing iron, easing and firming the veneer round any curves: Glued, ready for trimming

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1442145178' post='2864631'] I adore your build, finish and repair threads. Looking forward to this. [/quote] Thanks! So the first thing with veneer is to make sure you are going to be able to find any blind holes or chambers you need to use again after it has been covered! Easiest way is to just run your finger nail along the outline and features on a piece of paper: This doubles up as a reverse template for working out the best area of veneer to use...in my case, I want some even vertical lines to match the back of the headstock: I cut out the appropriate area of veneer with scissors. Care is taken here...it is relatively brittle prior to the PVA being applied... : ...and we're ready to veneer

Hi I've done veneering threads before but thought I'd combine a Hayman headstock refurb thread with a quick ABC. This was a spin-off from the slim-down of Paul S's Shergold neck. Another Basschat member contacted me to see if there was anything I could do or suggest to get a Hayman headstock back to looking acceptable. I've got a short gap between builds so suggested that I did a veneer, matched as best as I could. The reason is that holes and dints had needed to be filled and - even if 'pine' wood filler had been used - it's impossible to do an invisible mend through this method. Solid colour painting was another option, but we agreed that trying to preserve the look of the original would be preferable, if possible. I suggested a plain maple veneer, colour toned - as far as possible - to the fretboard This is how it was to start off with: The big round hole at the top is for the logo disc which had been removed pending the work and will be later replaced. The two small holes are for the string trees and, clearly, need to be re-found after the veneering. Just popping down to do the next bit so will continue the thread in a few minutes! Andy

[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1441907865' post='2862889'] Any progress with this? [/quote] Ditto . We all wait with prelibant expectation...

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1442074407' post='2864268'] Sounds like you're working on it! [/quote]

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1442062672' post='2864183'] Congrats on yet another really great build. I think a 5 string version would be even better aesthetically. [/quote] Thanks, White Cloud I'm not sure Basschat could take an even longer epic thread

[quote name='DarkHeart' timestamp='1442071157' post='2864247'] awesome! would fit my curves very nicely [/quote] It's a bass I'm hoping to grow into

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1442014409' post='2863888'] We need another Midlands Bass Bash so I can try this out. And have cake, of course. [/quote] Yes - and especially the cake....

For those that might not have seen the NBD thread in the 'Bass Guitars' section, there's a clip of our very own [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvTWjYQ4t1A"]Chris S playing this here[/url]

Hi, Ian As Jabba says, you do need to router them in - the result is, however, a very satisfying security of both the bridge and the tailstock. It is, compared with the things I've seen you do to perfection, a very straightforward rout - simple MDF template would make it worry-free. The bridge actually comes in two parts to give a secure base to the full adjustability. While you could dispense with the bottom bit (and just adjust with the saddles) it still sits a bit high for some configurations. No option, however, for the tailstock to get the break angle right but, as I say, an easy route with just a simple 'V' template and a cutter the width of the block. The bridge block rout can be done just using straight-edge guides and then tidying up the corners with a chisel or dremel.

[quote name='Naetharu' timestamp='1441884400' post='2862540'] That's a fantastic looking bass! Any chance of a video so we can hear it in action? I just checked out the build diary too and I have to say I am [i]very [/i]impressed with your work! [/quote] Well, after a tough negotiation with his agent (thanks Jo ), it has been agreed the Chris S will indeed feature in an AJRGuitarmods exclusive! With a background of traffic noise and under the admiring gaze of a spellbound audience (ie, Chris's cat), the new bass is put through its paces. I particularly like the bit at 1:41 where Chris says 'Oh, I like this!' The exclusive [url="https://youtu.be/TvTWjYQ4t1A"]Youtube clip is here[/url] Andy (With thanks to Chris, Jo and Tiger the cat)

I like the concept of the bent backplate to give follow-through across the headstock joint. Never knowingly seen that before...is it what you usually do, Ian? Great idea and, once carved, will look very elegant. I look forward to seeing this progress...

[quote name='Naetharu' timestamp='1441884400' post='2862540'] That's a fantastic looking bass! Any chance of a video so we can hear it in action? I just checked out the build diary too and I have to say I am [i]very [/i]impressed with your work! [/quote] Trust me, you wouldn't want any video of [b]me[/b] playing it... Mind you, it's going to be winging its way over to our very own Chris S very soon for a proper going over, and he [b]can [/b]play - I'll see if we can get a clip or two

The arty farty pics are [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/269230-nbd-ajrguitarmods-bubinga-fretless/"]here, in the Bass Guitars section[/url], by the way, if anyone's interested. I adjusted the neck relief this evening and have got to do a touch more routing in the bridge pocket to be able to drop the action a couple of mm. Also going to get a wider and rough-bottommed leather strap tomorrow...it balances pretty level with my thin nylon slippy-slidey one but I prefer to play with the neck high and it is wanting to drop back down. Could go for hipshot lightweights but will try the strap first. I played my VM Jaguar to compare this afternoon...I'm stunned at how bad it sounded in comparison. Well impressed with the SD's Andy

[quote name='Len_derby' timestamp='1441828748' post='2862185'] Well, you've been busy since last week Andy. I got my hands on this beauty last week, before the hardware was added. Even nicer in real life. [/quote] Hi, Neil Yes - I was determined to finish it this week. Still got to rout out the bridge chamber a bit more to be able to drop the action by a couple of mm, but couldn't be more pleased with it! Andy

[quote name='Chris Sharman' timestamp='1441825612' post='2862147'] Oh my! That looks fantastic! I wonder what it plays like....? [/quote] Well, me old China, once I've got it properly set up, you're going to test drive it...

Hi All Some of you will have been following the [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/259782-new-project-bubinga-fretless/"]build thread[/url] on this but, for those who don't want to trawl through the gory detail, here's my new baby. I've always hankered after something with the same look and feel as the Thumb Fretless tribute I built for our band's bassist but wanted to steer clear of any Warwick registered design features. I'm a real Warwick fan and love some of the things they incorporate in their basses so wanted to produce something that followed some of the same concepts but was very much an AJRGuitarmods design (ie with features and ideas stolen from everyone ) . This is the result, and - as it is built for my own use - I'm pleased (and relieved!) to say I couldn't be happier with the result : Ref the spec:[list] [*]34" Scale [*]bubinga body; mahogany / wenge / mahogany neck; ebony fingerboard; ebony face and back plates; mother of pearly 'swifts' inlay [*]Seymour Duncan SJB-2 pups running through STC-2p 2-band EQ [*]Warwick hardware and tuners [*]D'Addario Chromes [/list] Thanks for looking! Andy

In my 'box of bits', I found a smaller stacked pot knob bottom. It needed drilling out to fit the shaft but, to my eye, looks a lot better. I'll probably post the fancy pics in the standard Bass Guitars section so people who don't want to don't have to trawl through another Andyjr1515 endless thread Thanks everyone for the fantastic feedback on this along the way...it means a lot Andy

Thanks folks! Yes - well chuffed

I'll do the arty farty shots tomorrow (when hopefully the light will be better!), but it's basically finished. Bits I'm delighted with:[list] [*]It has absolutely the balance and gravitas I hoped for [*]It is FANTASTIC to play (and not set up yet!) [*]It sounds brilliant (and not set up yet!!) [/list] Bits to tweak or think about:[list] [*]The tone and balance knobs are deliberately separate from the volume. However, when I spaced them, I forgot about the fugly stacked pot knobs SD supply with their EQ so they visually look a bit closer together than I had in my head (I trialled it with 3 standard knobs before I drilled the holes). They are fine in use though . [*]I spotted a tiny bit of filling I've missed at the tailstock [*]I've got to add the strap locks [/list] Overall, I'm happier than a pig in s**t - can't believe how well this has come out...