Andyjr1515

Any progress? Any pics?

I love that walnut, Ian Black hardware or not, the satinwood one looks fabulous!

[quote name='scojack' timestamp='1434404943' post='2799346'] you read my mind,. Muchos Cahoonas .. all i'm sayin [/quote]

[quote name='scojack' timestamp='1434401137' post='2799297'] Would have been good with a template, but freehand , nice work Andy Ian [/quote] Some would say reckless

[quote name='roman_sub' timestamp='1434384490' post='2799097'] Andy, Thanks for explaining. Don't think Warwick use mahogany (much) so interesting how this one is going to turn out tonally (maybe somewhat deeper/warmer tone?)... May be wrong, but is mahogany softer than the more "typical" Warwick neck woods, e.g. wenge / ovangkol- so does the mean any changes in terms of the finish you are planning to apply? Roman [/quote] Hi, Roman The change to mahogany is because of the factors above...I had two separate pieces of Ovangkol , both with problems. Mahogany was in the end the safer option. It will be interesting to do a side by side with my tribute build (which I will be able to do)...although the p/ups are also different - the tribute p/ups were MECs and this one will be Seymour Duncans. It's 'essence of' rather than a dead copy of a copy Andy

[quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1434371359' post='2798953'] Looking great [/quote] Thanks, Joe

[quote name='roman_sub' timestamp='1434374111' post='2798982'] Andy, this is looking really great, and I look forward to seeing this progress :-) Just a question re: hardware, did you choose "W" hardware because of a particular characteristic / tonal quality? Would be interested to hear a builder's perspective here .... Cheers, Roman [/quote] Hi, Roman That's a sort of 'Yes and No'. The intention is to have a bass that has the same feel, balance and sound as the thumb tribute I built but without it trying to look like a copy. As such, by and large, the dimensions, woods and hardware are going to be the same where practical. The other reason is that I like some of the features of Warwick hardware and it is really not comparatively expensive in terms of bang-for-buck. It is remarkable how reasonable the prices are considering that this is what they put on their very expensive German-made models. I like the adjust-a-nut...especially for a fretless...and I like the mass and height adjustment options of the bridge (the top half is adjustable for height as a block, and then additionally each of the saddles. Particularly for a homebuilt set-neck, that means that - in the event of the action needing to be higher - I don't end up with the rather unnerving 'saddles on stilts' . Instead, the whole block is adjusted for the correct general height and then the saddles simply adjusted to match the radius. Andy

Started on the bridge and tailstop routing so I can determine the angle and position of the neck. I'm using Warwick hardware which is set into the body, so both needed chambers routing. Although you see a Dremel here, I used predominately my little Bosch trimmer router - bubinga is very hard and the Dremel kicks too often to be used for the main rout - even for most of the trimming...I just use it for the tight radius corners. Because this build is for my own use, I took a risk and freehanded it. For people I build for, I always cut a template and use a bearing router-bit. Although clearly I ignore my own advice, I wouldn't recommend doing it freehand - again, one kick and suddenly you have a slot where you didn't want one As it happens, I got away with it. Here's the tailstop slot: ...and then the height-adjustable bridge: ...and here they are snugly in place Next job, sorting the neck angle and cutting the angled dogleg in the neck...

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1434196411' post='2797521'] Just curious but what did the final assembly weigh in at? [/quote] In the rush to get it all sorted for Tom's visit - and with the expectation of slimming the neck down when he was here - I forgot to weigh it! Perhaps Tom will be able to at some stage...

Thanks, folks I'm waiting for the first 'used in anger' report from Tom. It will be interesting to know how well it performs live

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1434125536' post='2797010'] Nice. The bubinga is lovely, and it will no doubt look even better with finish and the shades of the neck & fingerboard to set it off! [/quote] Hi, PlungerModerno - yes...it's a lovely piece of bubinga. I know this one is a slow build, but I've got high hopes for it

Hooray! I'm further on than I was, in spite of redoing the neck. I got the Makita thicknesser out and set about slimming the neck blank down to the 63.25mm slot I'd previously routed in the bubinga. I just LOVE that thicknesser Aided by the superb quality of the mahogany blanks, I slimmed it down quite quickly by around 6-7mm each side, then was able to take a further one eight of a mm (!!!) off each side to get it to fit like a glove: It doesn't often happen but immensely satisfying when it does! This is it the right way up: The neck will have a notch taken out, angled to create the neck angle and to bring the fretboard surface up level with the top of the top. But before I do that, I've got to position the bridge, height and distance from the back. Check, double check, triple check...... Thanks for looking Andy

[quote name='scojack' timestamp='1434096544' post='2796561'] Back on track Andy , I used to do that with neck splices myself but just find it easier using a router table to hog out the channel now. Any time i've used DD the quality of timber has been absolutely first class, that's lovely looking mahogamananny ...real stuff too and not just an african brown wood in disguise. [/quote] Yes - top supplier! I don't have a routing table but yes - that would be easier. To be honest, it's not much bother with a fence guide but somehow I always end up with a slightly wiggly line which makes capping the rod just a little more tiresome. I hear there are some dirt cheap routers and routing tables going in Aldi...maybe it's time to invest. My big router, typically, has non-standard fittings (not even the Trend 'Universal' plate will fit!!!! ) so me getting a table will always mean getting a new router as well.

So this is the bit where you all either say "Wow, great idea Andy!" or "Well.... yeah ..... duurr-brain!" Does anyone else do this? That is, add together the fact that inner neck splices are often 6mm wide to the fact that most truss-rods are, yes, 6mm wide?? : So I offset the inner splice by c.11mm from the top face for the truss rod plus cap. The added advantage is that it means you can get two necks out of one piece of splice... Anyway - here's the 'there's no such thing as too many clamps' shot: ...and here's the ready-made truss rod slot: I have to say, superb service from David Dyke. Placed the order late Tuesday evening, paid yesterday, received two planed, straight and beautifully matched mahogany timbers this morning! Tomorrow, I will pop it in the thicknesser to slim it down to suit the body slot Andy

Only just picked up this thread, Mark. Lovely looking bass and a VERY familiar looking neck Andy

50% back to where I was - I cut another piece of wenge at 10 degrees to act as a central scarfe joint and it is glued and clamped to one of the mahogany sides ready for the other half which I will do later this afternoon: Then it just needs to stay dry enough tomorrow for me to put it through the thicknesser again and the job's a good 'un...I will be then ready to calculate the neck angle and cut the neck dog-leg I don't know if anyone else uses centre splices to save a bit of work with truss rod slots? When it's unclamped, I'll take a shot to show you what I mean Andy

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Couple of lovely even straight and flat pieces of mahogany arrived from David Dyke this morning - I reckon I'll be back to where I was on the neck by tomorrow lunchtime [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] [/font][/color]

LOL - posted that on the wrong thread!

Couple of lovely even straight and flat pieces of mahogany arrived from David Dyke this morning - I reckon I'll be back to where I was on the neck by tomorrow lunchtime

[quote name='blablas' timestamp='1433947519' post='2795345'] It's not that black and white with a NT neck, you can always modify the bass to a bolt on or set neck. But if possible, don't risk it and just make a new NT neck while it's still easy to do. [/quote] Yes - that's my logic too

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1433927539' post='2795067'] nutbags. Is it totally lost? Can't it be stabilised with the help of modern day liquid plastics or some such? [/quote] There's no point in risking it, alittlebitrobot - the trouble with through necks is that once they are glued in, if there are any further issues at all you're basically b******d I'm sure Kirk will refund me and it's only a couple of hours work gone west. In the re-order I've opted for mahogany with the wenge centre splice rather than Amazaque / Ovangkol. I reckon by the end of next Monday I'll be back to where I was Andy

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1433921562' post='2795006'] That's a real shame [/quote] Not the end of the world, though. It's given me a bit more practice in using a jack plane which is no bad thing

A bit of 'two steps forward, one step back' on this. The two steps forward is that the body rout for the neck is done. I used the little Bosch again, just with a straight edge: The body will be 1.5" thick and will curve (as seen from the back here) concave, so the slot was cut to leave 0.75" of bubinga in the middle. This was the resulting slot: The one-step back bit is the neck itself...as I feared, I'm going to have to scrap it and start again. The cracks I was bothered about have just continued to spread. It is also now very clear what the problem is - they are emanating radially from what must be a relatively small branch that has been cut. It's that prevalent and deep that it even has cracked through some fairly thick grain-end paint: Along the length I think you can see why I've had to abandon it: Pity....that's a nice wenge middle splice gone, but - with a through neck - if the neck had been glued in, it would have been everything gone... so now is the time to consign it to the BBQ and not when it's too late . I'll talk to Kirk at Exotichardwoodsukltd...I'm sure he'll do right by me. Andy

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1433862475' post='2794646'] And here it is, now fitted on the bass. Andy - you are a genius. [attachment=193940:marathonnewneck1.jpg] [/quote] It looks great, Paul. I'm really pleased Oh, and yes...the Luminlay charging torch will be in the post first thing Andy

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1433768036' post='2793743'] I'm assuming lefty option included of course! :-) [/quote] With some of my builds, I'm not convinced that you'd notice much difference whichever way round you strapped it on