Andyjr1515

[quote name='scojack' timestamp='1434096544' post='2796561'] Back on track Andy , I used to do that with neck splices myself but just find it easier using a router table to hog out the channel now. Any time i've used DD the quality of timber has been absolutely first class, that's lovely looking mahogamananny ...real stuff too and not just an african brown wood in disguise. [/quote] Yes - top supplier! I don't have a routing table but yes - that would be easier. To be honest, it's not much bother with a fence guide but somehow I always end up with a slightly wiggly line which makes capping the rod just a little more tiresome. I hear there are some dirt cheap routers and routing tables going in Aldi...maybe it's time to invest. My big router, typically, has non-standard fittings (not even the Trend 'Universal' plate will fit!!!! ) so me getting a table will always mean getting a new router as well.

So this is the bit where you all either say "Wow, great idea Andy!" or "Well.... yeah ..... duurr-brain!" Does anyone else do this? That is, add together the fact that inner neck splices are often 6mm wide to the fact that most truss-rods are, yes, 6mm wide?? : So I offset the inner splice by c.11mm from the top face for the truss rod plus cap. The added advantage is that it means you can get two necks out of one piece of splice... Anyway - here's the 'there's no such thing as too many clamps' shot: ...and here's the ready-made truss rod slot: I have to say, superb service from David Dyke. Placed the order late Tuesday evening, paid yesterday, received two planed, straight and beautifully matched mahogany timbers this morning! Tomorrow, I will pop it in the thicknesser to slim it down to suit the body slot Andy

Only just picked up this thread, Mark. Lovely looking bass and a VERY familiar looking neck Andy

50% back to where I was - I cut another piece of wenge at 10 degrees to act as a central scarfe joint and it is glued and clamped to one of the mahogany sides ready for the other half which I will do later this afternoon: Then it just needs to stay dry enough tomorrow for me to put it through the thicknesser again and the job's a good 'un...I will be then ready to calculate the neck angle and cut the neck dog-leg I don't know if anyone else uses centre splices to save a bit of work with truss rod slots? When it's unclamped, I'll take a shot to show you what I mean Andy

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Couple of lovely even straight and flat pieces of mahogany arrived from David Dyke this morning - I reckon I'll be back to where I was on the neck by tomorrow lunchtime [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] [/font][/color]

LOL - posted that on the wrong thread!

Couple of lovely even straight and flat pieces of mahogany arrived from David Dyke this morning - I reckon I'll be back to where I was on the neck by tomorrow lunchtime

[quote name='blablas' timestamp='1433947519' post='2795345'] It's not that black and white with a NT neck, you can always modify the bass to a bolt on or set neck. But if possible, don't risk it and just make a new NT neck while it's still easy to do. [/quote] Yes - that's my logic too

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1433927539' post='2795067'] nutbags. Is it totally lost? Can't it be stabilised with the help of modern day liquid plastics or some such? [/quote] There's no point in risking it, alittlebitrobot - the trouble with through necks is that once they are glued in, if there are any further issues at all you're basically b******d I'm sure Kirk will refund me and it's only a couple of hours work gone west. In the re-order I've opted for mahogany with the wenge centre splice rather than Amazaque / Ovangkol. I reckon by the end of next Monday I'll be back to where I was Andy

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1433921562' post='2795006'] That's a real shame [/quote] Not the end of the world, though. It's given me a bit more practice in using a jack plane which is no bad thing

A bit of 'two steps forward, one step back' on this. The two steps forward is that the body rout for the neck is done. I used the little Bosch again, just with a straight edge: The body will be 1.5" thick and will curve (as seen from the back here) concave, so the slot was cut to leave 0.75" of bubinga in the middle. This was the resulting slot: The one-step back bit is the neck itself...as I feared, I'm going to have to scrap it and start again. The cracks I was bothered about have just continued to spread. It is also now very clear what the problem is - they are emanating radially from what must be a relatively small branch that has been cut. It's that prevalent and deep that it even has cracked through some fairly thick grain-end paint: Along the length I think you can see why I've had to abandon it: Pity....that's a nice wenge middle splice gone, but - with a through neck - if the neck had been glued in, it would have been everything gone... so now is the time to consign it to the BBQ and not when it's too late . I'll talk to Kirk at Exotichardwoodsukltd...I'm sure he'll do right by me. Andy

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1433862475' post='2794646'] And here it is, now fitted on the bass. Andy - you are a genius. [attachment=193940:marathonnewneck1.jpg] [/quote] It looks great, Paul. I'm really pleased Oh, and yes...the Luminlay charging torch will be in the post first thing Andy

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1433768036' post='2793743'] I'm assuming lefty option included of course! :-) [/quote] With some of my builds, I'm not convinced that you'd notice much difference whichever way round you strapped it on

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1433750501' post='2793504'] A most enjoyable thread, from a readers point of view it's almost a shame it's finished. [/quote] Well, to paraphrase a certain famous politician, "for this bass, it isn't the end....it isn't the beginning of the end...but it may be the end of the beginning!"

So the deed is done Bass is passed over to Tom (our very own wwcringe) to try out in real life. Tom played it quite a bit this morning as we sorted the final action height, etc, and it looked and sounded GREAT . Helped immensely, of course, by Tom's playing but nevertheless a source of great satisfaction We've left the neck as initially carved (a flat-backed D profile) for Tom to play extensively and consider fully how it feels before the possibility of either moving towards a 'C' profile or asymmetric. I think that's wise because it is a relatively unusual scale (34.5") and sits on the strap in a slightly different position to how you would expect - a quick judgement on final profile might turn out to be a rushed judgement. The interesting thing is that is doesn't actually feel like a long scale at all. I thought that but Tom also confirmed the same. We've also left the acoustic strings on. Whether it is the strings or the position of plucking or what, but it sounds very much like an upright double bass to my ears! Anyway, I'm sure Tom will drop a line of how he has found it when he's given it a good going over. In the meantime, here's muggins, the (relieved and) very satisfied builder: ....and here's Tom, the (presently and let's hope it continues that way) satisfied customer Thanks for all of the encouragement over the progress of this most fascinating and challenging of builds Andy

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1433675834' post='2792958'] Been very busy recently and this got left in the shed and forgotten about, unfortunately it fell over and the finish got damaged right down to the wood but I'm looking at it as a positive thing as I wasn't that impressed with my prep work and there were plenty of small dings and dents, so yesterday I sanded most of the finish off and applied more primer and today I've started applying the gold again, it's not perfect but a lot lot more acceptable this time I just have to make sure it doesn't fall over this time! I've ordered some hooks so I can hang it from the shed rafters rather than trying to stand it up. [/quote] Bummer! Happens to us all, though and, as you say, it is sometimes the excuse we all need to prompt further improvement Andy

This really is top quality stuff

Lovely. I have the same problem taking photos of my red jobs....whatever you try to do with the white or colour balance, it always comes out too scarlet. I think you've done well to get a shot that is fairly representative. Fantastic bass...

It just gets better and better, blab las

Fabulous looking bass!

That is absolutely beautiful!

Before bandsawing the neck profile, I need to start creating the datum surfaces. First is to slim it down to the maximum width, ie the neck width where it will meet the body. On the original tribute build, that was at the 22nd fret with a neck width of 65mm. Pretty much the one and only 'luxury' tool I have is a Makita 2012nb thicknesser - quite pricey (I think mine was around £400 and in some places they are more expensive than that) but well worth the investment: It is portable (only just at approaching 30kg), important for me as I have nowhere to permanently set up equipment, very easy to use and VERY accurate. If I had a permanent setup, a planer-thicknesser would be ideal, but most of the timber I but has at least one machined face so generally I can square them up well enough to avoid the 'banana in, banana out' problem For this one, I chose the best side to start, using a jack plane to just take off the slight lumps and the bumps, then ran it through the thicknesser on both sides, checking but the width and the symmetry either side of the wenge strip as I went. Result - completely square and symmetrical opposite sides, at pretty much spot on 65mm and with a good surface finish - ideal to slot into the body rout when the time comes

For the neck, I am using a similar approach for the middle splice to that of Tom's African Wood bass in one of my other threads. I like the additional strength of a scarfe joint, but don't like the external visuals. So the compromise is to do the inner splice with a scarfe joint, but the outer pieces with straight-grained timber. Here's the wenge inner with the scarfe joint cut, ready to glue to one of the outer pieces of Amazaque: Now the two pieces are glued with Titebond and clamped to one of the Amazaque side pieces: Once that was dry, it was sanded with a beam to make sure there was no hardened glue residue, and then the second half was glued and clamped: While I was handling the pieces of Amazaque, I positioned an area that had a few woodworm holes so it would be the side that will be cut away. However, I did also note a number of lengthways cracks which are a little more concerning. I normally leave band-sawing of the side profile of the neck and headstock until I've done all of the routs for truss-rod, etc so it stays rectangular for as long as practicable for ease of clamping, etc.. However, I'd rather know sooner rather than later if I'm going to have an issue with the timber, so I will plane the top surface flat first, but then go straight to cutting the basic neck side shape so I can see what I'm dealing with...

I'm sure folk are getting well bored with me showing my Squier VM Jag. This was second-hand in black. They can be picked up pretty cheaply second-hand (and some of the later models are even cheaper!) and are eminently refinishable. I veneered the top of this one and left the back natural but it's just as straightforward to spray-finish them: Andy

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1432916580' post='2786215'] Nice! I was looking into sharpening things recently because for a uni module we had to start a business to do with something musical. So I decided I'd make some cajóns using purely hand tools and I really couldn't get my oil stone to work (I was lucky enough that my Gramps left behind a whole host of good quality planes/saws etc. which I could use) so I did massive amount of research into the different options. I went with some diamond stones because I found that even with the water stones most people use a diamond stone of some sort to flatten them because with a lot of wear it would obviously hollow in the middle and I didn't want to spent too much. Still spent more than I would have liked though. Your set up is looking good [/quote] Hi, Myke That's what I'm doing, really - the cheap old diamond block (I really do think it was only about a tenner!) is what I use for getting the bulk of the metal out of the way...sandpaper will work just as well...so the waterstones are about getting the surface finish sorted, not the main metal removal. Andy