Andyjr1515

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1433750501' post='2793504'] A most enjoyable thread, from a readers point of view it's almost a shame it's finished. [/quote] Well, to paraphrase a certain famous politician, "for this bass, it isn't the end....it isn't the beginning of the end...but it may be the end of the beginning!"

So the deed is done Bass is passed over to Tom (our very own wwcringe) to try out in real life. Tom played it quite a bit this morning as we sorted the final action height, etc, and it looked and sounded GREAT . Helped immensely, of course, by Tom's playing but nevertheless a source of great satisfaction We've left the neck as initially carved (a flat-backed D profile) for Tom to play extensively and consider fully how it feels before the possibility of either moving towards a 'C' profile or asymmetric. I think that's wise because it is a relatively unusual scale (34.5") and sits on the strap in a slightly different position to how you would expect - a quick judgement on final profile might turn out to be a rushed judgement. The interesting thing is that is doesn't actually feel like a long scale at all. I thought that but Tom also confirmed the same. We've also left the acoustic strings on. Whether it is the strings or the position of plucking or what, but it sounds very much like an upright double bass to my ears! Anyway, I'm sure Tom will drop a line of how he has found it when he's given it a good going over. In the meantime, here's muggins, the (relieved and) very satisfied builder: ....and here's Tom, the (presently and let's hope it continues that way) satisfied customer Thanks for all of the encouragement over the progress of this most fascinating and challenging of builds Andy

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1433675834' post='2792958'] Been very busy recently and this got left in the shed and forgotten about, unfortunately it fell over and the finish got damaged right down to the wood but I'm looking at it as a positive thing as I wasn't that impressed with my prep work and there were plenty of small dings and dents, so yesterday I sanded most of the finish off and applied more primer and today I've started applying the gold again, it's not perfect but a lot lot more acceptable this time I just have to make sure it doesn't fall over this time! I've ordered some hooks so I can hang it from the shed rafters rather than trying to stand it up. [/quote] Bummer! Happens to us all, though and, as you say, it is sometimes the excuse we all need to prompt further improvement Andy

This really is top quality stuff

Lovely. I have the same problem taking photos of my red jobs....whatever you try to do with the white or colour balance, it always comes out too scarlet. I think you've done well to get a shot that is fairly representative. Fantastic bass...

It just gets better and better, blab las

Fabulous looking bass!

That is absolutely beautiful!

Before bandsawing the neck profile, I need to start creating the datum surfaces. First is to slim it down to the maximum width, ie the neck width where it will meet the body. On the original tribute build, that was at the 22nd fret with a neck width of 65mm. Pretty much the one and only 'luxury' tool I have is a Makita 2012nb thicknesser - quite pricey (I think mine was around £400 and in some places they are more expensive than that) but well worth the investment: It is portable (only just at approaching 30kg), important for me as I have nowhere to permanently set up equipment, very easy to use and VERY accurate. If I had a permanent setup, a planer-thicknesser would be ideal, but most of the timber I but has at least one machined face so generally I can square them up well enough to avoid the 'banana in, banana out' problem For this one, I chose the best side to start, using a jack plane to just take off the slight lumps and the bumps, then ran it through the thicknesser on both sides, checking but the width and the symmetry either side of the wenge strip as I went. Result - completely square and symmetrical opposite sides, at pretty much spot on 65mm and with a good surface finish - ideal to slot into the body rout when the time comes

For the neck, I am using a similar approach for the middle splice to that of Tom's African Wood bass in one of my other threads. I like the additional strength of a scarfe joint, but don't like the external visuals. So the compromise is to do the inner splice with a scarfe joint, but the outer pieces with straight-grained timber. Here's the wenge inner with the scarfe joint cut, ready to glue to one of the outer pieces of Amazaque: Now the two pieces are glued with Titebond and clamped to one of the Amazaque side pieces: Once that was dry, it was sanded with a beam to make sure there was no hardened glue residue, and then the second half was glued and clamped: While I was handling the pieces of Amazaque, I positioned an area that had a few woodworm holes so it would be the side that will be cut away. However, I did also note a number of lengthways cracks which are a little more concerning. I normally leave band-sawing of the side profile of the neck and headstock until I've done all of the routs for truss-rod, etc so it stays rectangular for as long as practicable for ease of clamping, etc.. However, I'd rather know sooner rather than later if I'm going to have an issue with the timber, so I will plane the top surface flat first, but then go straight to cutting the basic neck side shape so I can see what I'm dealing with...

I'm sure folk are getting well bored with me showing my Squier VM Jag. This was second-hand in black. They can be picked up pretty cheaply second-hand (and some of the later models are even cheaper!) and are eminently refinishable. I veneered the top of this one and left the back natural but it's just as straightforward to spray-finish them: Andy

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1432916580' post='2786215'] Nice! I was looking into sharpening things recently because for a uni module we had to start a business to do with something musical. So I decided I'd make some cajóns using purely hand tools and I really couldn't get my oil stone to work (I was lucky enough that my Gramps left behind a whole host of good quality planes/saws etc. which I could use) so I did massive amount of research into the different options. I went with some diamond stones because I found that even with the water stones most people use a diamond stone of some sort to flatten them because with a lot of wear it would obviously hollow in the middle and I didn't want to spent too much. Still spent more than I would have liked though. Your set up is looking good [/quote] Hi, Myke That's what I'm doing, really - the cheap old diamond block (I really do think it was only about a tenner!) is what I use for getting the bulk of the metal out of the way...sandpaper will work just as well...so the waterstones are about getting the surface finish sorted, not the main metal removal. Andy

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1432893901' post='2785906'] What do you use to flatten your water stones? [/quote] Hi, Myke I use a Matsunaga stone (the little yellow one on the pic ) As I say, with the sharpening jig, just wet and dry (used wet) on glass works pretty well (600 to 1000 to 2000 grit). I've been wooed by the japanese stones and this is my set-up: ie, a real cheapo 4-sided diamond plate block (I think it was about a tenner), then a 1200 medium waterstone (the terracotta one), polishing to a mirror finish on a 6000 finishing stone (the buff coloured one). To be honest, neither stone has shown any sign of wear at all, but the Matsunaga stone is useful for keeping the surfaces clean. Andy

[quote name='hayman1010' timestamp='1432898736' post='2786004'] Hi there, I have a Hayman 4040 with a neck pocket of about 57mm dont suppose you came across a neck that would slot straight in? Thought I'd ask as the Shergold & Hayman bodies are basically the same. Ricky. [/quote] Hi, Ricky The neck pockets are, of course, usually tapered. Just measured Paul's original neck and it tapers from 56.25 mm where the body joins the neck, to 58 mm at the far dusty end. Not sure where Paul sourced his replacement but am sure he will pick up the thread. Andy

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1432854464' post='2785725'] Great to see more progress. I'm definitely struggling with tool maintenance. I can't seem to get my plane crazy sharp no matter how many educational youtube videos I watch. All I can do with mine is make dust, never a lovely curly shaving. I need somebody who knows their stuff to just come to my house and show me. [/quote] The thing that changed my life was getting the Veritas sharpening jig http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-mk-ii-honing-system At nearly £60, it seemed a huge investment at the time, but it is orders of magnitude more effective than the cheapo rigs you can buy. The setting jig squares up the blade and sets the exact length for the required bevel and the wide roller means it is completely stable in use. I got fantastic results just with grades of wet n dry stuck with double sided tape to a piece of float glass, but since additionally invested in a couple of waterstones which literally get it sharp enough to cut the hairs on the back of your hand...

This is probably threaded elsewhere but I couldn't find it...well done bluejay and all others who have put in the time for the page in Bass Guitar Magazine - excellent stuff! Andy

Little by little I'm learning how to sharpen hand tools and how to use them. A Workmate on an uneven patio is a bit rubbish for using a plane, but nevertheless, that's what I was able to use to straighten and flatten the two outer neck sections. I finished off with sandpaper on my trusty aluminium beam, but as much to check that it was flat and even as to actually remove material (a couple of strokes will fill any voids with fine sawdust...a great indicator): I was really chuffed that both sections were rendered flat enough using the jack-plane alone This is dry and lightly clamped: If it doesn't rain tomorrow, I'll glue and clamp it all up ready for the final thicknessing...and that will mean I can then route the body slot.... Andy

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1432818655' post='2785273'] Look what just arrived from the US [attachment=192994:SDA.JPG] [/quote] Oooooh - that looks nice

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1432811799' post='2785175'] Cracking job Andy Turned out superb!! [/quote] Thanks, FuNkShUi ! The Bubinga bass is making very slow but steady progress, by the way...got a good feeling about it Andy

[quote name='Jonnyboy Rotten' timestamp='1432803075' post='2785060'] Oh my! That is beautiful! Given that it is difficult to get a unique headstock design without it looking weird or peculiar you guys just nailed it! [/quote] Thanks, Jonnyboy Rotten I'm really pleased with it, although can't take much credit for it...it is essentially all Tom's design Andy

[quote name='Matt P' timestamp='1432804178' post='2785074'] I'm not joking about the les paul uke bass, there are strings available that will go to 26" scale and I've always wanted a double cut les paul, I'm still skint though, maybe if I manage to get a few things sold then i'll give you a shout. Matt [/quote] Sounds like fun PM any time Andy

[quote name='Jenny_Innie' timestamp='1432755946' post='2784727'] Yeah. The handle appears to be held on by two "slide in pins". There doesn't appear to be much holding them in. They're a bit of a snug fit, but not massively so. All done and fixed. Yay!!! But I'll be keeping a weather eye on it as I don't want the P Bass to go bouncing down the road. [/quote] As long as they have been pressed or tapped in flush at either side, I would have thought they should hold OK. Same principle as the latch pin on this [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TOcarNMWb8"]SKB 'How To' Video[/url]

Sounds like a result, Jenny

RickyV may have the answer for you If not, this is what I did to my yucky green RBX270F. Your bass's body (is not guaranteed but) should be of very similar construction: Clearly, this is veneered, but the back is just plain....it will give you an idea of what yours would probably look like if you just stripped and varnished it: I've got a thread somewhere that covers this one as I did it. It covers both the stripping and the veneering. I can track it down if it is of any help? It takes a bit of patience, a bit of graft, a few cheap but important tools and a few important tips and tricks, but it can be done. This was my very first attempt on what used to be a boring red Ibanez: Let me know if you want me to track down the thread. Andy

[quote name='Matt P' timestamp='1432718071' post='2784150'] Maybe in a year or so if he gigs pick up and I need another 5 string as a backup (unless you fancy building a 24"scale solidbody bass uke in the shape of a doublecut Les Paul junior?) Matt [/quote] Now you're talking, Matt...just whittling the mahogany as we speak! Ever tried a Bigsby on a bass uke? Don't worry, I can always burn it off if you don't like it...