Andyjr1515

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1431457498' post='2771609'] Slightly unusual technique for .... [/quote] You want to see some of my other 'techniques'

It's all day digging the daughter's garden tomorrow, so I've done as much as I can today. That has included tackling Paul S's Shergold neck slimming (thread in Repairs and Technical) and the next vital step in the bubinga fretless - squaring up the mating sides of the 2-part body blanks. I don't have a workshop (or even proper workbench!) but I live in hope and, in anticipation, have been learning as many woodworking skills as I can. That has included how to sharpen a plane blade, and set up a plane to cut properly. For the mating surfaces, I would normally use a router - guaranteed right angles to the top face but I know that carpenters use a plane and shooting board. So...why not try... Here's my makeshift shooting board: It's basically a piece of marine ply on top of the patio table Not the best way round for using the plane, but it was the only way I could clamp it. Bubinga is b****y hard! Nevertheless, and chasing the patio table round the garden, it seemed to be starting to square up and straighten up I've NEVER been able to do that before....old dogs, old tricks With a final short sanding using the aluminium beam with some 120 grit stuck on, this was the result: That's free standing....no daylight anywhere....slightly gobsmacked....never done THAT before, usually takes me all weekend... Next job, joining the two halves and band-sawing the shape out. Thanks for looking Andy

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1431353625' post='2770349'] Going by the thread title I was expecting a bit of a bodge, but this is top, professional work! Nicely done. [/quote] Or as one of my colleagues once said '... you know, when you [i]really[/i] put your mind to it, you are capable of almost adding a touch of elegance to your bodge jobs...' Thanks - very much appreciated....especially when I saw just how FANTASTIC some of our basschat members 'little projects' are at last weekend's Midlands Bash. Now if you are talking top, professional work, that was where it was at (there were loads of examples but Jabba the Gut's were simply sublime...) Andy

For the frets, first job was to re-establish the chamfer: This is a great but inexpensive tool - a diamond file (removable and reversable) in a hard-rubber block. Then taking off the sharp corners and edges: The frets themselves were impressively accurate for an unfinished neck. I didn't have to do any general leveling - just half a dozen high spots in various places on various frets, and a couple of re-seatings of the fret ends. Next was to take off the finish off the fretboard - I will be staining this 'essence of original' (ie as close as I can reasonably get) and, unlike the neck itself, the fretboard had been coated or waxed and that would have stopped the new stain soaking in. I use a single edged razor for cleaning / light refurb or stanley knife blade for heavier scraping (in use, two handed when not holding camera as well!). By the way - DON'T use a blade for a fretless! Only radius block and appropriate sandpaper for that job This then gave me a correctly slimmed neck, of the right profile, tarted up frets ready for staining: I did a couple of experiments with different stains I've used in the past - the stains react quite differently with different pieces of wood even of the same species so it can't be assumed that if it worked once before it will give the same result again . Found one that - when finished - I think will be the closest I can reasonably get to the original (not sure it will quite have the WONDERFUL honey glow of the original, but it will be closer than, say, purple!!!) This is only indicative, because the clear finish makes a significant difference to the final look but here it is: I have some Luminlays airmailing their way from Japan for the side dots and need to discuss with Paul his preferred finish but I'm really pleased so far how this is coming out Thanks for looking, folks Andy

The replica neck sat at 42.5mm at the nut, with the target width a 'Jazz' 38mm. That's the same as my Squier. Interestingly, at the heel, the Shergold is quite a bit [i]slimmer[/i]than the Squier...both the replica and original sit at 55.8mm vs the Squier at 59.9. Bearing in mind that Paul's preference was to go for functional rather than replica, we had already decided to scrub the binding. As it turns out, that was easy!: Two minutes and some careful thumbnail work later: That took 2mm off the fretboard width for starters In terms of the nut fret itself, it left therefore a very small amount to sand off: I started with 80 grit sandpaper on a sanding block to get the fretboard and frets the correct width up to the heel: Then - because maple is rock hard and life is too short - a cabinet scraper to re-establish the profile curve: Finally, sanded the profile smooth the old-fashioned way: This, by the way, is a fantastic way of getting a 'C' profile and an absolute bum way for getting to my personal preference (esp for 6 string electrics) of a 'V' profile Luckily, this is a 'C' Final lengthways sand to get rid of the sandpaper scratch marks got me to this: Next thread, onto the frets and fretboard... Andy

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1431287195' post='2769689'] How do you adjust the truss rod on the replica? On the original (or the Hayman 40/40, anyway) you went through a slot on the rear of the body with a special tool which was a cranked piece of metal and turned the wheel with that. The wheel isn't visible on the replica. [/quote] Hi, Tauzero & PlungerModerno Yes - as you say, the original has a 'capstan' accessible in a slot under the heel. And as PlungerModerno rightly says, the replacement has a conventional allen-key access at the headstock....I need to find out what Paul's preference is with that in terms of leaving it as is or covering it with a bent cover. In the meantime, great progress this morning on this...thread coming shortly Andy

Had a great time! Nice to meet you all, folks Thanks also for the driving, Mr Sharman, and the cakes, Mrs Sharman Andy

Ahah! That Moriarty is a cunning blighter!

Hi I don't know if any of you saw [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/259471-neck-reduction-proscons/"]Paul S's recent post[/url] enquiring about slimming down the neck of an old favourite of his, a lovely Shergold Marathon. Problem was - and I think we've all had this at one time or another - it wasn't being played because it wasn't a comfortable fit for him. In this case, it is because the neck at the nut is the more 'traditional' 44mm...very wide compared with most of the more modern 4 strings at around at c 38mm. (There is a small irony here, because the 'under-wraps' project I'm working on at the moment has a 44mm neck). I thought it was worth posting the thread because it is a common issue many of us face...mod or sell? Also, it's a way of keeping Paul up to date with the progress. The challenge here was - and you can see the thread:[list] [*]To slim down the existing neck is a one-way trip [*]To do it 'properly' is expensive. Frets out, binding off, slim down, re-fret, re-bind. Impact on the resale value but less than the next option... [*]To do it the cheap way - lose most of the binding and just sand it, binding, frets 'n all. Takes the value off both the neck and the bass. [/list] Paul's solution is none of the above and is rather elegant:[list] [*]Buy a modern replica replacement neck [*]Give THAT one to the crazy bloke in Derbyshire to attack with his sanding block. Go for functionality rather than authenticity - ie, lose the binding [*]Play what is now a comfortable bass but which still retains the vibe until... [*]...sometime in the future, simply refit the original neck to keep, or sell, an original beauty. [/list] So, on the back of that, Paul HAS sent it (and the original as a template for the pocket measurements, etc) to the crazy bloke in Derbyshire who is now rummaging around for the biggest sanding block and coarsest sandpaper any self-respecting bass has ever been subjected to Here are the two necks: Clearly the new neck is unfinished and a basic copy, but there are a number of things in its favour:[list] [*]It does have the same 'vibe' I particularly like the use of thin, period correct, frets [*]The name badge, while just a printed sticker (the original is a thick perspex piece that is [i]nailed [/i]onto the headstock) is actually a perfect replica of the original's logo [*]Fret dots are spot on [*]It is bound and side dotted, albeit this will be largely sanded off [*]It has a modern accessible truss-rod (the original is in the heel) [/list] Head shape isn't exactly the same and is a little narrower but definitely good enough. The heel also appears to be the correct size. A detail - not sure of the functional value - is the unusual shape of the heel: Here's the original: ...and here's the replacement: Won't affect the performance but intrigued to the purpose of the extra machining. Then again, on the original, what on earth is this great big hole for?: It'll be a few days before I attack the poor little thing but I'll post the carnage when I do Andy

If it was my bass and I didn't want to bother with recutting slots, I'd put a thin shim under the offending side. To remove the nut first score with a sharp knife along the sides to cut through any varnish, find something to act as a drift and give the nut a sharp hammer tap from the side. It should come right out. Pop a sliver of hard plastic (Dunlop 0.6mm picks are good for this), cut to the width of the nut under half of its length. Drop a tiny spot of super glue onto one side of the nut at the other side to the sliver. Pop the sliver in, press the nut back in. Done.

Lovely job

It's become a bit of a cliche, but this is what 'truly awesome' really means Don't think I've ever seen anything like it...

You've finished that very nicely There's some great figuring coming out... Andy

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1430582084' post='2762861'] Well, actually, my legal team are currently busy suing [i]me [/i]for forgetting to pay them, so I'd say you're safe enough to just go ahead. Incidentally, I see your SG has a Warwick cavity cover. Did you buy that or what? I'm not sure how to approach covering the cavity of my build. I might buy one (but they seem expensive) or make one out of mdf with a body-wood veneer. [/quote] Yes - I bought a Warwick cover from Thomann - I liked the ease with which you could open them...until I twigged that, with passive humbuckers, why would you WANT to open them??? Last few I've done, I've used a headstock plate-thickness piece of the same wood as the body back:

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1430567740' post='2762683'] I'll pass this under the nose of my legal team, but it all seems good to me. I just ordered a router and spent a few days making templates so I'm less concerned with imposing myself on other peoples builds now [/quote] So, I know it's hardly a start but I've rough cut out the template for this: If alittlebitrobot's legal team would please note:[list] [*]I've used his lower horn [*]I've ignored his upper horn (mine now looks like a 'thumb' that's recently spent a day in a brewery...) [*]I haven't [i]exactly[/i] ignored his angled transition from upper horn neck join to lower horn neck join, it's just that - with my crazy way of building these things - I would only rout it away anyway. What I [i]will[/i] do is put that angle into the back of the neck at the transition. The SG 6-string I did (below) has the same construction method, so this is where you will see that angle... [/list] I trust alittlebitrobot's legal team will begin preparations to sue me for every penny I've got...won't cost me much, then Andy

Life, they say, is all about grabbing opportunities when you can...so, while I'm cutting some MDF for a 'little job around the house' I've been stalling for the past 32 years, I just may as well cut the template for this I'm going to stick with my design for the top horn, but use alittlebitrobot's design for the bottom horn. As such, the soldering-iron burnt-in logo across the front of the bass will now read 'alittleb..'. Seem fair? If it stays dry in the morning, I'll also straighten up the joining faces of the body wood. Andy

They are great kits and eminently upgradeable. I built their 6 string electric offset last year and it's my main gigging guitar now...

The 'under-wraps' project is getting very close to completion so I'm moving back to this one in the spare moments (it's going to be a long job!). This morning I got the thicknesser out and skimmed the bubinga to see what the figuring is like under the crud. It's very nice This is the one side: ...and this is the other: I've got a couple of commissions coming so this will continue to take the 'do bits when I can' priority... Andy

[quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1429720310' post='2754285'] So body is on the way should be here in a couple of days so will add pictures then. I'm also now seriously looking at pickups and I'm considering a plug and play thunderbird set from EMG as no soldering model is TBTW can be single coil or humbuking. Also quite fancy fitting a Sims quad coil? Does any have any experience with either of these setups? [/quote] No experience here, I'm afraid, but sounds interesting. Will be following your thread

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1429738043' post='2754541'] Excellent [/quote] ...about the hardware arriving, not the absence of the fancy pickups and nut...

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1429697404' post='2753991'] Great stuff. I just received a packet of black hardware too. No fancy pickups or nut, sadly. [/quote] Excellent

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1429632940' post='2753454'] I used to own a lefty Thumb BO4 and found the neck would dive so be interesting to see if your body design tweaks will alleviate the issue whilst still keeping to a compact body shape. Another small body shape you could consider blending into the mix could be that of a more symmetrical SG but with contouring or is that just impractical? [/quote] Hi sblueplanet The tribute I built didn't suffer from neck dive....although I fully expected it. I tend to build a bit weighty (never cross a bridge I've designed - it is likely to collapse through pure weight!) so I suspect that is why . Time will tell...I'm starting my exercises already

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1429455628' post='2751512'] Andy, you're a bloomin' wizard Congrats on an awesome bass Chris! [/quote] Takes off pointy hat and bows low enough for long grey beard to curl round on the floor... ...mind you, starting off with a f*****g lovely bass helped.

[quote name='Chris Sharman' timestamp='1429444683' post='2751382'] Thanks, it's also a beast. The pickups are so hot that it blew an active USA Jazz into the weeds last night! the sound is just EPIC. When we were setting up last night I got this out of the case to put it on the stand and heard the support band guys behind me whisper a collective "F**k Me!" when they saw it. ...and then they heard it... It looks like my Jazz may be hitting the marketplace soon as I can't see this ever leaving my hands. Again, thanks to Andy for his work, and thanks to those on here who contributed to my decision to purchase it. [/quote] It's great to hear, Chris! I told you that it was the best sounding bass I've heard through my own amp... Excellent - can't wait for the next one Andy

Sort of committed now - got the p/ups, EQ and hardware: Thomann seem to have stopped doing the MECs so I've gone for SD SJB-2s with a STC-2 EQ. The hardware is Warwick...still impresses me that their hardware is so relatively affordable I've used the Just a Nut before and I think they are good. For the 'under-wraps' we've gone for the brass one...but for this one I've stuck with the composite but - having now seen the brass one - I'm really tempted... Andy