Andyjr1515

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1429128596' post='2748398'] Great but, actually, I insist that I be given due credit in the form of my name, scorched into both the front and back of the bass.... and really big too. [/quote] That seems fair...

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1429104123' post='2748034'] Another build! Woohoo! I'm sorry if this is impertinent but I was just thinking about your shape. If it was me, I'd thin the lower horn a bit to match the change to the upper horn a bit. Something like this [url="http://i.imgur.com/B5brGLu.jpg"]http://i.imgur.com/B5brGLu.jpg[/url] Just putting it out there... [/quote] Hi, alittlebitrobot Hmmmm - yes quite like that. Might shamelessly steal that thought Thanks Andy

I won't steal Chris's Thunder of any piccies of the full bass, but I've posted a [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/260067-tidying-up-an-old-fretboard/"]quick thread on tarting up an old fretboard here[/url], if anyone's interested Andy

Hi All Just a quick hints and tips thread of how I go about a well-used fretboard. Chris Sharman's new/old Aerodyne is in my maniacal clutches to tidy it up, look it over and tweak it up a bit. I won't steal his glory, suffice to say it's a LOVELY bass, albeit in need of some TLC - particularly in relation to the fretboard. The frets are not worn, but were very tarnished, gummed up with old finger-grease. The fretboard again was pretty mucky and with quite deep 'wound-round-string-marks' in a number of places. I'm sure other folk do this in other ways, but for what it's worth, this is how I go about it. First is to clean the years of gunk off the rosewood, and also get rid of the string marks. I use a single-edged razor blade as a scraper: Clearly, you don't do this many times in a fretboard's life - unless you want to go scalloped - but for a fresh base to start from it is a very effective way. The razor movement always follows the grain, stopping and starting butted right up to the fret. Because there is no fret wear, I am spared having to get the crowning files out. Like an eejit, I forgot to take a photo of the frets as they originally were but, trust me, they didn't look great! First off was a fret-polishing rubber (I used the 1000grit one) and an old trigonometry template that is perfect for a fret-guard! I then did an initial dousing of lemon-oil, letting it soak in then wiping off the excess: Then, final polishing with a micro-mesh cloth. I used the 8000grit one: Final lemon oil applied and buffed off: ...and photograph the *sparkle* I'll let Chris post the finished shots when it's all done Andy

It looks great, Chris. I might be seen going on a long long holiday soon, taking with me only one suitcase....a long black thin one...

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1429047839' post='2747488'] Don't worry, before I hit reply I had to check what I was telling you was right LOL [/quote] Me too - that's why Howie beat me

Howie beat me to it

I've probably completely mis-understood, but if it is sharp, then presumably you want to bring the saddle back a bit (ie towards the back strap button)...which side of your bridge are your intonation screws on?

Lots of people do it lots of ways, but there is little point going much smoother than 600 before the first oiling because the wood grain will be lifted in any case. After the first few coats, however, once the oil is properly in the grain, you will the want to be sanding down to progressively finer grades, certainly to 1500 (or 2000 even better). Sand wet for all the finishing coats. Andy

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1428940385' post='2746182'] Look at the curve on that body, fantastic! [/quote] It's a great place to hide a beer belly

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1428929738' post='2746003'] Aside from the upper horn, the silhouette is pretty close to a Warwick thumb bass - but with different contouring the finished body could look a lot different. FWIW for a I'd suggest having a long upper horn (reaching to or beyond the 12th fret) for a standard 34" scale - to get a good balance, even if the bubinga is fairly light when shaped, or is so heavy you end up doing something like a chambering system. As I'm sure you're aware - some people have found the thumb layout (especially the bolt on ones?) a little neck heavy. If it comes to it, you can always shorten the horns if the bass sits too far to the right (or move the strap button). EDIT: P.S. I agree with scojack, the upper horn no your body design, at least in outline / silhouette, is less "awkward" than the thumb one. Kinda like a cross between a status and a jazz upper horn. Tasty. [/quote] Hi PlungerModerno I know where you're coming from but the aim is to pretty much replicate my Thumb tribute but without it being shaped like a Thumb (apart from anything else, is it just me that thinks the Thumb is a little bit...er...suggestive? Oh, it is just me!...'nuff said... ) What I like about the original build was the weight, balance, compactness as well as the playability. Of course, there's no guarantee that ANY of that will be the same with a second build Thanks for the feedback, folks...much appreciated Andy

[quote name='scojack' timestamp='1428911691' post='2745745'] Good start Andy, loving the Bubinga ! Think the body shape is an improvement ...was never keen on the top horn, giving it a bit more shape looks much better. Looking forward to seeing this progress ...what's the neck spec? IanM [/quote] Thanks, Ian The neck is going to be Amazaque (Ovangkol) spliced with mahogany. It will be a thru' neck, done my strange way (I don't glue the wings to the neck, I slot the body with a router, cut a notch out of the body section of the neck and slot it in. That way, I have a continuous (albeit 2 part in this case) body top rather than a third piece to cover the neck.) It's how I did my Tribute, pictured above: Then in slotted the neck and eventually it came out like this at the back: People think I'm bonkers but I find it a lot easier to accurately cut a routed slot than producing gap-free flat and square butt-joints Andy

Thanks, folks Committed myself now with an order in place at Thomann for a couple of SD SJB-2's, an SCT-2 Equaliser, Warwick bridge, tuners and 'just a nut' . Thomann don't seem to do the MEC's anymore and I wanted to try out the SBJs in any case... What's the view on the body shape? It's trying to be 'familiar but different'... Andy

Hi All The 'under-wraps' project is progressing well so I am starting to work out the what next. It's a few weeks away before any physical progress, probably, but I am planning to make a start on an 'essence of thumb' thru-neck fretless. As I've discussed before, I built a thumb tribute for a band mate who idolises the late Jack Bruce and asked if I could build something like JD's own fabulous Warwick NT Thumb. The build went very well and it is fantastic to play. Construction method was quite different to the original, and it has my moniker inlaid 'swifts' on the headstock for all avoidance of doubt but is clearly a copy not only of the materials but also the shape. I've had a few enquiries about building another, but building a bass to sell is quite different to building an at-cost tribute for a mate and I have no interest in encroaching on Warwick's products which, I think, are fabulous. I also use my mate's bass now and again and the green monster always gets to me 'want it...want it...keep it....keep it....steal it.....steal it....' because, regardless of the shape (which does polarise views a bit) it has a great (quite full-on) weight, great tone, great playability. My answer is to design my own shape but with the same overall dimensions and timbers as the last one I did. May turn out to be a lemon, but worth a try This is the shape I have in mind... ...and this is the bubinga I've got maturing like a good wine in the shed: I won't know until I start slimming it down how good the figuring is going to be, but based on the grain, it should be nice: As I say, it'll probably be a few weeks before I start on it in earnest but I'll let you know when I do for them's that might be interested... Andy

Hi, Paul Out of my experience zone (and you know my philosophy...I always try to do something new on one of my own guitars, not on someone else's pride and joy) but, to do it properly, I think it's quite involved. Someone correct me but - with it being bound - the 'proper' way would be to take the frets out, sand, rebind and refret. If it didn't have binding, you'd probably get away with just sanding the sides and frets and all, re-curving the neck profile and then re-finishing the fret ends. Probably wrong and probably doesn't help a jot Andy

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1428266880' post='2739815'] It just gets better and better. One of the most attractive guitars I can ever remember seeing...really... Andy [/quote] When I say 'guitars'....you know what I mean

It just gets better and better. One of the most attractive guitars I can ever remember seeing...really... Andy

[quote name='donslow' timestamp='1427827651' post='2734822'] I think the point I was trying to make was, even the cheapest of build your own kits are a great place to start building your skills but bodies, necks and all other parts, quite often better quality than the kits, can be picked up on eBay sometimes for literally peanuts, it also gives you the option to be picky and get exactly what you want [/quote] Yes - that was a shorter way of putting it . And yes, quite agree

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1427793215' post='2734200'] Slight error in my thinking and a school boy error TBH! decals are clear [u]not[/u] white and you can't print (on an inkjet) in white so what looks like grey with the backing paper in place is actually a light tint of black, when in place on the headstock the centre section of the decal only has the effect of slightly darkening the headstock colour, it actually looks OK but is pretty cheap and cheerful compared to a properly printed decal. I'll take a snap of it later, I varnished the decal before applying it but haven't varnished over it on the headstock just in case I change my mind and want to replace it. [/quote] Hi Rumple Nowadays, I use these stick on labels rather than waterslide decals: Now the thing is, I know these are clear (and hence same problem) but [b]I'm almost certain they also do them in white. [/b] I got these from Staples and am sure I saw also white ones next to them... This is how the clear ones come out...and MUCH easier than the water slides. They are fully varnishable with the varnishes I use, although I didn't bother on this one: Worth a try? Andy

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1427814371' post='2734557'] What tempts me to do a self-build would be Andyjr's learning more about how a bass goes together. I was seriously (and am still) considering a cheap Jazz bass kit, solely to give me something to practice doing fret jobs on. The rest of fettling a bass seems fairly simple, levelling and rounding frets looks more difficult. But, if I could learn to do it, I'm sure that I would save the purchase of the kit through being able to do it myself on future basses. [/quote] Go for it - perfect way to start and, if you get the bug, it could easily lead onto full builds

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1427814521' post='2734560'] Can I just mention that, before each gig we play, our drummer builds his own kit? [/quote] - and in the middle of each of our's, our's destroys his...

[quote name='donslow' timestamp='1427639338' post='2732550'] Currently have a bee in my bonnet about a new project if for no other reason just for fun Am looking for a hollow body gretsch esque build your own kit, does anyone have any experiences with these or know where would be a good place to get a decent quality one for less than just buying one off the shelf? [/quote] There are almost two opposing objectives here... Doing a kit self-build is great fun, the source of immense personal satisfaction, a great way to learn how a guitar or bass goes together, the chance to decide totally what colour and finish and the ability to choose - to a point - what hardware or electrics you would like to change from the stock offer (which, if it is a decent kit, is usually a very acceptable build & machining standard, but 'economical' bits that go with it...think Sainsbury's Best Buy rather than Taste the Difference ). It will not be any cheaper than a built bass and, for equivalent standard, will be quite a bit more expensive. Its resale value will be very low. If you want a very nice bass at a very reasonable cost, go for the reputable entry-level suppliers (Thomann's Harley Benton; Squier; Epiphone; Cort, etc..). Resale will be normal second-hand rates If you want a very nice bass that sounds fantastic, at a reasonable cost, buy one of the above and upgrade the things that make the most difference. Resale, however, will usually NOT be enhanced by doing this but you can often end up with something that, for your own use, knocks spots off basses of significantly higher RRP's So basically, the first decisions are, do want this for: the fun OR to keep and to use yourself OR to save money / retain value...they are sort of mutually exclusive... I can give you a worked cost example if it helps...a kit build 6-string electric that is now my go-to 6 string, cost a small fortune but is fantastic and unique. Let me know if you want to see the comparisons which are fairly illustrative of the norm... Hope this helps rather than further confuses!!! Andy

Yup - the decals look great...

It looks magnificent! A real 'old school' look. I used to have a transistor radio that had the same vibe....

Can't really describe just how great that looks to me...speechless...