Andyjr1515

I think it was [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Micro-Mesh-Micromesh-Cushioned-Abrasive-Polishing-Kit-9-Sheets-6-X-4/141378195269?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140407115239%26meid%3D22f4b9be51ae404ca00c9cea94628fd5%26pid%3D100204%26prg%3D20140407115239%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D20%26sd%3D131249123251"]this stuff I got[/url]

Micromesh is the way to go. When I get a moment, I'll add a link.

[quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1414288005' post='2587953'] Precisely. Even the nagnets aging takes decades. You'd need a time machine to chevk on the sound difference, and then it wouldn't be great. [/quote] ...and during that time, your hearing shifts anyway. Mmmm...a tricky conundrum this one...

I think you've got yourself quite a challenge there! Because the pickups are mounted on the surface of the top, rather than the now almost universal approach of sinking into routed chambers in the top, the bridge is going to be much higher than most commercially available ones. The simplest way would be to mount a standard modern bridge on a block of wood. Not elegant but, if you can still use the existing string retainers, you wouldn't at this stage even have to bolt it down. Also have a look at the bridge that hofner use on their violin basses. They are also high and free floating. When I have a moment I'll send you a link. But before you spend a lot of time and effort, find someone who can confirm the pickups are still working...

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1413753298' post='2581620'] I really like it. I've been meaning to build a Yew capped guitar for a while as have some nice stuff stashed away but haven't got round to it yet. One of those woods where the cracks and knots really add character....Anyway, sorry for the de-rail, good luck with the re finishing, I'm sure it'll turn out great having seen your other stuff . [/quote] Thanks. It was my main gigging guitar until I had a go at another forum's summer challenge to take a cheap kit and turn it into something special. Now THAT is my main gigging guitar The Yew one came out well. I've done a violin too in Yew - it really is a nice looking wood and easy enough to work. But you have to be VERY careful with the chippings and dust. It is very poisonous...

If it's brand new then yes - get the shop to sort it

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1413738717' post='2581406'] Yew can't be serious . Very nice! [/quote] Ouch ...and thanks

It stayed dry enough for me to do a bit of grouting (tactics) and get the bulk of the remaining black paint off the Thunder Jet. I won't be sanding the structural veneer any more than this - it would make it too thin for my cunning plan. Getting deep enough on the back and sides to eliminate the soaked in black usually takes HOURS of extremely tough sanding but I took a gamble and recently invested in an Abranet sander - first time I've used it and it's ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC It's pictured on the table above. It attaches to a vacuum cleaner and uses velcro to hold the micromesh in place. As it sucks all the sanding dust away, it is claimed to make sanding much quicker and extend the life of the sandpaper at the same time. Well, I always approach these things with a healthy dose of scepticism and yet I reckon it took 70% off the time to do this bit of sanding. Wonderful invention. It also, of course, makes sanding almost dust free. I started the sentence with Mrs Andyjr1515 and got as far as 'Hey - that's a thought, when it's raining...' The answer was as quick as it was brutal...'No!'

[quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1413633270' post='2580348'] Following with interest [/quote] Thanks, Mel

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1413631244' post='2580311'] Looks crackin'!!! How much gunk did you have to scrape off? ;-) [/quote] Not too much, Bryan I don't think the bass has been hammered in its past - for its age, the fret wear was not too bad and not too many round-wound impressions in the fretboard either. Simply had to get beyond the string depressions of the lower strings at the lower frets. Just about to go out while it's dry and finish sanding the body ready for the veneer when it arrives. I lose most of my evenings this coming week with the day-job travel but hope to come back to the veneer waiting for me next weekend! Andy

Daylight again! This is how the fretboard is looking

You could be my PR man :-) I presume you know that's one of mine...

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1413584688' post='2580000'] Okay, the headstock may be a little wonky, but otherwise that looks fantastic!! [/quote] Just making sure no one could ever try to pass it off as the real thing.... Mind you, Pete, who I made it for, is apparently going to have it buried with him :-)

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1413575517' post='2579855'] I'v obviously made it seem more complicated than it is! Don't have a photo as I don't have a bass with W locks at the moment, but:- 1. Put strap on bass as you normally would without strap locks. 2. Then, click the strap locks into the button as your normally would if they were fitted to the strap And that is all I mean. So the strap (and the weight of the bass) is actually on the buttons and not on the lock itself. [/quote] Ah! So using the strap lock like a mechanical Grolsh washer?

It has to be the design... To my shame, I've never tried a real one, but I made our band's 'main' bassist (I'm the spare) a tribute to Jack Bruce's fabulous Warwick signature fretless. I am sure my building skills are not a patch on Warwick's and the EQ is a Seymour Duncan 3 stage rather than an MEC, but the rest of the materials and hardware are pretty much the same. It feels divine on the strap. As others have said, the body is really small but the bubinga weighs a tonne so it balances beautifully (mine's a thru-neck). The curve of the body makes it sit just right and the fretboard and neck is like playing a top quality cello. Added to that, even with the SD EQ, it sounds - what's the word - wholesome! Has to be the density of the wood (yup, I know...the wood can't make a discernible difference,etc,etc). I can only assume a real Warwick Thumb 4 NT fretless is a world-beater. As they say, what's good enough for Jack... My poor attempt at a tribute is here:

Bit more progress this evening - I'll post some shots tomorrow:[list] [*]The ebony dust /epoxy repair for the neck dint didn't hold well enough (it's a very small dint and there wasn't enough of a key to make it bond well enough) so I used my next favourite - ebony dust and superglue. Basically a tiny drop of superglue into the dint, covered by ebony dust and squeezed into the glue and dent. Let it set then micro-mesh down to smooth. Not quite invisible but now it cannot be felt at all. [*]Fretboard scraped clean with a one-sided razor-blade, micro-meshed smooth, oiled, cleaned, oiled and buffed - looks beautiful [*]Frets polished with 2400, then 4000 then 6000 micro mesh [/list]

Hi, PlungerModerno Well - if it came out anything like that I think both Bryan and I would be eating our respective hats ...but yes, conceptually that kind of thing but with a fancier veneer underneath (and a less perfect finish on top!). The veneers that Bryan has chosen are both stunning so, if either works, it should be quite something. The choice is also Tru-oil to give more of a satin look and quicker to 'age' naturally. I think you'll be really pleased with the micro-mesh - it's so much better to use than normal wet and dry for the kinds of things you're talking about. Thanks for following the thread! Andy

Ah - misunderstood... I think you might be right. There are some effects which are already multi-effects but I think you are right, you can only use one of the various selections on the knob at a time. It's like the modelling amps - my Vox Valvetronix is the same. It's a twist knob for the effects like the pod with choices of various single or pre-set multi effects but you can only use one choice at any one time What you're after, if I've understood correctly, is an effects chain. I think these only started coming in with the newer generations of pedals Andy

Veneers are ordered; new ink samples received and look promising; frets confirmed as level and polishing started; ebony/epoxy dint fill on the back of the neck will be tried this evening; primer and touch-up paint for the top edge of the headstock should be able to be bought in the morning...nothing much to show but pleasing progress all the same

Does this not do the trick. Paul? 1. Get an amp or effect you love happening on your POD. 2. Hold Save, and press Manual. Save, Manual, A, and B lights flash. 3. Use Up/Down arrows to select A (Amps) or B (Effects). 4. Press Save to complete the deed. It's from section 6.4 onwards[url="http://line6.com/data/6/0a060b316ac34f0593e5054cc/application/pdf/Bass%20POD%20User%20Manual%20-%20English%20.pdf"] in the manual[/url]...I'm sure what you are trying to achieve is do-able Andy

..but back to the thread ...do you know which model it is, mentalextra? If it has block inlays, it will definitely be long scale. If it has dots, it could be either (the 'special' is 34" and the 'special SS' is shortscale) ...and have you bought it yet???

[quote name='DrBike' timestamp='1413469443' post='2578556'] Aren't Jaguar basses short scale? (rinses mouth out with soap and water) IGMC [/quote] The 'Vintage Modified Jaguar Special SS' is - it is 30" The normal 'Vintage Modified Jaguar Bass (wot mine is) is 34"

[quote name='mentalextra' timestamp='1413466544' post='2578506'] ...... noticed a Fender Squier 'Jaguar' bass. Had some age to it, looked like it had been played; ie the 'newness' had worn off. The ticket said £99, got a feeling they might take an offer? But do I [s]need[/s] want it? [/quote] Even to ask that question, you KNOW you do. I love mine...

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1413460540' post='2578415'] I think I'm about as excited as you and Bryan are in seeing this bass reborn [/quote] Great, isn't it! It's why this could never be much more than a breakeven hobby for me....I just love trying to make things better than they were :-)

Here's the headstock. Still some vestiges of the over-varnish (bottom edge) but 'satin-ing' up nicely: And here's the back: Still a lot of work to do with the neck. There are a few dints that I will ignore, but one deep one that you feel as you run your thumb up the fretboard. A couple of ways this can be tackled, but I will first try the method I use to hide inlay gaps in ebony. I mix ebony dust (collected last time I radiused an ebony fretboard) into epoxy and then fill the dint with that. Once it's been sanded with micro-mesh, it should be pretty invisible.