Andyjr1515

[quote name='Lorne' timestamp='1407747927' post='2523468'] Most of you probably won't like this, but anyway I have always been a fan of a particular bass, and the original sold for $5000 3 months before I joined the internet, and I actually had the money to buy it back then as well !!!! [font=Calibri]So roll forward a few years and I buy a brand new 2007 one, and it cost a LOT, and was too nice to turn into a replica, but then I found a 1994 USA Handmade, cheap, that someone had aready altered, it's the one on the left[/font] [font=Calibri]I had inlays cut for me, got Grover Titans and a Chrome Badass II for it, and I hand cut the 16 pieces of Brass and had them Chromed, Chris Eccleshall ballsed up the rest, inlays don't touch at the tips, headstock overlay is 2 pieces not one, and it is 2 different colour blacks![/font] [font=Calibri]The Finished article[/font] [/quote] Stunning!

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1407435734' post='2520572'] I love this and want the same done to my RBX270F! [/quote] Thanks dannybouy ! Well, for a mere king's ransom.... Seriously, I'm pretty sure I've still got some of the same veneer. Drop me a PM if you want to explore the options...

Beautiful!

Really, really smart . Great job

I look forward to seeing the photos - I think it's going to look tremendous

[quote name='Dolando' timestamp='1407436860' post='2520580'] The Plastic Coating worked and I had good results, I just wasn't happy with the dye finish I did. I'm much happier with the new finish. Yea, I read up a lot on what works with what, but its always best to test anyway. I've been told tru oil over dye usually causes it to run, but I will be testing it first. I may have to resort to spray cans if not. I've done a few spray can finishes with good results, so I'm ok with that. Oh and thanks for the inspiration, thats a lovely looking bass. [/quote] Although I use truoil less now, I don't recall ever having the dye run or leach as long as it has properly soaked into the wood (which yours will have done or it would have all gone with the sanding!) and is fully dry. Try it first on a bit of scrap - but obviously make sure the dye is properly soaked in and dry before you apply the truoil.

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1407149087' post='2517710'] My modified Telecaster Bass... [/quote] That's a significant number of pickup sound options!!! Does it sound as good as it looks?

Yes - I agree with Roland. Necks are generally much easier to sand down than bodies and are also usually as hard as nails (except mahogany ones) so you can stop with the coarse in time as you get down to the wood. Take care with the binding - ever so easy to sand too quickly as it is usually MUCH softer than the wood. Pics?

[quote name='Wil' timestamp='1407228508' post='2518448'] I havent really looked that far into using binding, but I did read this which made me think it would be possible to do after the fretwork - http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Binding/How_to_bind_a_fretboard_Gibson-style.html Really I'm not fussed on the look of binding, I just figure it'll look neater than my slightly wonky fret tangs and slightly-too-deep-in-places-but-now-filled-with-superglue fret slots [/quote] Hi Wil The trouble is that the neck ends up wider than the frets. Some people are ok with that but some find it very off putting. Also, you will have a chamfered edge where it blends into the neck. With a decent edge filing of the fret ends, I'm sure it will look fine :-)

Glad this is back on the go! It is looking great. Your accuracy ref your planing is more than impressive. What's the weight like? Your comment about binding - body or fretboard? The former I would have thought unnecessary, the latter pretty impossible with frets already in and, again, don't think you need it Keep the thread going - it's brilliant! Andy

[quote name='antnee' timestamp='1407007699' post='2516669'] Holy shikaka. That is the best looking Fender I've seen. [/quote] Thanks Andy

Oh my ...... That looks fabulous ...

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1406476281' post='2511755'] Hi uk_lefty Getting the paint and poly off is sometimes a challenge but most of the veneer jobs I've done for basses and guitars has been to take an existing finish, strip down and go from there. I've got an old thread here somewhere which goes through how I do it - I'll try to find it and post the link. By the way I've just spotted your pm - I'll respond shortly Andy [/quote] This was one of the threads from this forum. I have some more detailed ones from another forum if anyone wants to see how it's done in a bit more detail. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/224207-another-veneer-job-yam-rbx270-fretless/

[quote name='namefail' timestamp='1406445087' post='2511447'] Squier VM Jaguar Bass [/quote] Thanks . That's my own bass and was one of the early ones I did (the first attempt, by the way, was the Ibanez above it - eventually sold it to a neplalese buddhist who plays in a heavy metal band...admittedly, a limited market). Unfortunately I've never found any veneer quite like the one on the Jaguar since and I'm not exactly sure what the wood is. I keep looking, though...

Hi uk_lefty Getting the paint and poly off is sometimes a challenge but most of the veneer jobs I've done for basses and guitars has been to take an existing finish, strip down and go from there. I've got an old thread here somewhere which goes through how I do it - I'll try to find it and post the link. By the way I've just spotted your pm - I'll respond shortly Andy

Most of these have been posted before in various topics so tell me if you're getting bored Ibanez entry-level GSR200 - was red: Squier VM Jaguar Bass - was black: Yamaha RBX270F Fretless, was metallic yucky green: Can't remember what this one was - a cheap import that someone had modified to make fretless. Was basic sunburst: I know they're not to everybody's taste, but I think they generally look more than the £150(ish) entry level basses they started out as! Andy

Bummer about the veneer, JPJ. Sorry it didn't work out. Great that you're back on with the project again, though. Intrigued by the bending of a thick maple cap - let us know how it goes Andy

[quote name='RAY AGAINST THE MACHINE' timestamp='1406058823' post='2507974'] Great customer. Relations Andy great to see [/quote] You are a sweetie, RAY AGAINST THE MACHINE Thanks - appreciated.

That looks really good. We knew you were in safe hands! [quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1406045248' post='2507828'] Wow. That looks great. Can anyone explain to me how a transparent quilt top refinish like this works? It must be a lot more complicated than a solid colour refin. [/quote] Yes and no. You take it down to the bare wood, stain the wood and then build up layers of clear varnish. A solid, done well, is also down to the wood, fill, prime, colour paint then varnish. Each has its challenges. This one looks a really professional finish Andy

Hi The first rating on the thomann link above quotes the dimensions

Hi, Mornats It's worth one more go with the relief. For checking the relief, you really need to get two bits out of the equation:[list] [*]The nut [*]The bit of neck that is fastened flat to the pocket [/list] Humour me and do the following:[list] [*]put a capo on the 1st fret (or get a friend to hold it down...mmm...could have phrased that better...). [*]Hold the bottom E or the top G down at the 17th fret [*]There should be JUST PERCEPTIBLE movement if you tap / press the string down at the 8th fret. [*]Adjust the truss rod until you get to that point. Let it settle overnight and check it again and, if necessary, tweak it again. [/list] The neck relief can make a significant impact to the action height when you are dealing with such a long neck as a bass which is probably why it went so askew when the weather changed. Let us know how you get on. If the neck relief is correct with the above method and you still cannot get the correct action height, then there is another factor involved. Andy

Actually, the blurb is talking about something different but this is the stuff to use

This is the sort of stuff often used. As the blurb says, tends to act also as a dampener for unwanted harmonics. http://www.cdguitars.co.uk/neoprene-foam-rubber-sponges-2-for-bass-pickups---pu-6944-023-289-p.asp

Hi Yes - quite normal to mount bass pickups on stiff foam, then you can adjust the screw depth to raise or lower the pickup to the correct distance from the strings. Sometimes, the foam packaging the pickups come in is usable ( if it came in packaging) although often that is too soft. Andy

Relief first - it can make a massive difference to the action. I don't measure the gap - as long as there is a just-perceptible gap at the 8th when you are holding down at the 1st and 16th. No gap is no good and big gap is no good. It wants to be just the right side of straight...