Andyjr1515

Hi, I think I've tracked down the right ones for both - they will both be Switchcraft (IMO the best quality) and shouldn't cost much more than £12 for the pair. I've got to place an order with that supplier anyway, so will add those on to save you the postage. I'll be in touch next weekend with an indication of when I can get across next to Chelt Andy

I'll find out exactly what it is you need and contact you sometime over next week / weekend Andy

Hi How urgent is your need? I visit Cheltenham quite often (we have a main factory there) and could do it for you but it might be a week or three before I'm next there during an evening Happy to do it for free. Andy

Sawdust mixed with a hard setting glue (eg superglue or epoxy) can work well. I personally wouldn't use PVA because I find it a b****r to sand (it can remain very plastic) - but that might be my technique! However, I do find with the darker colours of woods, the result can sometimes be lighter than the original and, preferably, the fill should be slightly darker. The best commercial filler I've found is Timbermate (sold in UK as Metolux) 'Premium Joiners Grade 1 Part Wood Filler'. It comes in various colours, but also as 'stainable', where you just mix in your stain into the paste to make it the colour you want. There are some good Youtube video clips of it (search under Timbermate). I recently used it to fill some dark walnut and used Camp Coffee as the stain - bit of a mistake as it took ages to set but my guitar is now visually gap free and smells just like a good like a good cup of Starbucks

I think I saw a thread on this one - is it hollowed out with a laminated thru neck and thick, chambered, laminated cocobolo wings? Just a guess It is indeed a beaut. Anyhow, I reckon you could get something pretty close-looking with veneer - it would just need a bit of vigilance and searching on the internet to get the right size and bookmatch. Why not give it a go? More than happy to [s]heckle from the wings [/s] offer ongoing hints and tips Andy

Great road(ie) test

You mean like this? [url="http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/Products/Veneering-Veneer-Packs-CocoboloVeneer-14881.aspx"]http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/Products/Veneering-Veneer-Packs-CocoboloVeneer-14881.aspx[/url] I've never used it (or this particular supplier), and I'm not sure how the bookmatching would go, but these sheets are plenty big enough for a bookmatched bass

For what it's worth, I agree with all of the above. Our band progressively started using small Behringer mixers etc after one or two of us tried out their pedals and other items - nothing we couldn't live without, just in case. Now our whole sound (bar the drums) comes through a Behringer Mixer Amp (Europower PMP6000 - absolutely fabulous) and we are just about to ditch our Yamaha speakers and upgrade to the 'cheaper' Behringer ones. I've built pedals myself and recently looked under the bonnet of a pal's Behringer distortion pedal - they use tiny, tiny components that should be c**p. That said, it has been 100% reliable and sounds MUCH better than an extremely expensive Blackstar valve job at around 5 times the price and whose slightly weird (16v AC), newish, well-cared for, power supply packed up in the middle of a gig. Might be luck of the draw but...well, it makes you think... I think the only thing to be aware of is that the equipment is generally not built like the proverbial tanks that some manufacturers achieve and therefore they can't be thrown around by roadies; p****d or p****d off band members; adoring fans jumping onto the stage; etc; etc in quite the same way as some of the others.

[quote name='JohnFitzgerald' timestamp='1319192098' post='1410983'] You're a gent sir. Duly noted and having a gander as we speak. Your Ibanez GSR200 on your website. I've just had what I believe the victorian referred to as a "crisis" of the trouser area. THAT'S what I'm talkin' about baby !! Sorry, turned all Nooyork there. [/quote] I've used Camp coffee in the past as a woodstain and also Quink ink - but never thought about using c**p . It works for leather, so.... The Ibanez was my first attempt - came out great. I left the veneer cracks showing which radiate out from the centre. What is surprising is that it looks like a carved top now when it is clearly a flat top. It was sold to a Nepalese Buddhist who plays bass in a heavy metal band who was 'spiritually drawn' to it. Just got to find a few more of those kinds of customer and I could make a fortune....

Hi I agree with Jondeeman that it needs stripping down to see if the body is cracked (which I suspect it is ) I did a thread last year of tips and tricks about veneering that might be helpful [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/142149-veneering-an-ibanez-gsr200-tips-tricks/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/142149-veneering-an-ibanez-gsr200-tips-tricks/[/url] I've done quite a few - both basses and 6 strings - ( see www.ajrguitarmods.co.uk ) and it really isn't as hard as it looks (although there are the aforementioned tips and tricks that make all the difference) Shout if you have any specifics you aren't sure about - whatever it is, I've probably already done it, got it wrong, started again and then found out how to get it right Andy

Looks pretty good to me One tip someone from this site gave me which worked well (forgotten who...but thanks anyway) was to pop a chrome pick-up ring around the pickup - hides all the scratches and dints and looks very professional! Other than that, I agree with Liam - it's the sound that'll be the winner Andy

Hi, Nibody Sorry to hear of your bad experience - we've all had them from time to time, but thankfully they are the exception rather than the rule. Have a peep at my website ajrguitarmods.co.uk - I would be happy to discuss if you want a particular look and sound to see if I can be of any help. I'm almost certain I could get a cadbury's purple and blue sunburst look. I do it more as a hobby than a business so it might not be anywhere as expensive as you might think...all but the body finishing would be at cost only. PM me if you are interested and no probs if you aren't Andy

[quote name='bassman2790' timestamp='1318769330' post='1405939'] I've got most of the paint off now. Still not sure which way to jump as regards the finish. It would be a shame to hide the grain [/quote] Stain (almost any colour) and clear varnish would still show the grain through like a good old trans-red / trans-blue, etc

How's this coming on, Mark?

[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1318689445' post='1405258'] aah yes. That dust is a bitch. [/quote] It certainly is . Mind you, it all cleaned up and polished up nicely - the chap I did it for was (phew!) delighted with it By the way, I found another useful household item - 'Camp' liquid coffee (you know, the one in a bottle your mother used to make coffee cake with) - great to mix in with Timbermate stainable wood filler and I reckon would make a pretty good antique stain in its own right. Anyone want to offer their beloved bass as a guinea-pig?

I LOVE Teal on a guitar . Did one one on a (wash my mouth out) 6 string a couple of years ago and it's still one of my favourites - what will you use to stain it?

Hi To be honest, the ink absorbs so well and the colour is so strong that an even finish isn't a problem. I just use a piece if rag pulled round into a ball, give it a good soaking and then just smooth it on. Each coat deepens the colour and evens out any variations. Mind you, best to wear the Marigolds! The strat just needed two coats, one straight after the other.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1317568083' post='1391815'] It might be just the photos, but it does just seem to look round the edges as if it's not quite as smooth as it could be? [/quote] You are being very diplomatic but yes - absolutely - the edges are a little rougher than they should be Nothing to do with the photo, I'm afraid, but happily hardly noticeable on the real thing unless you hold to the light in a slightly odd way. The reason is simple - in our slightly dusty house (cat, kids, etc, etc) getting the final coat on the top without any dust bugs is a pain and I have to make a decision every time of 'leave it now Rogers, the top isn't going to get any better', regardless of small flaws elsewhere. Before this is handed over, I will be using some flour-paper to take the tops off and polish with Auto Glym car polish... (General please note - I find Auto Glym is great for polishing areas of poly or nitro, but never use it more generally with a Tru Oil finish - it's OK to hide very small blemishes but on larger areas takes the shine right off ) Andy

Hi I've been asked for a few more details and the answers might be of general interest so...here goes. Ref the veneering, I added a thread earlier in the year of some of the tips and tricks [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/142149-veneering-an-ibanez-gsr200-tips-tricks/"]http://basschat.co.u...00-tips-tricks/[/url] Ref staining and finishing the back and sides - which were a plain Ash - this is how it came out (again, the colour is a bit squiffy on the photo - it is a real deep blood red in real life) [attachment=90549:IMG_1874s.jpg The grain on the Ash shows through great. With a grainy wood like this and stained, there are two options: Have grain showing or Have grain completely filled This example has the grain showing (it is just a hint, as much of the grain is filled in any case with the varnish). The process there is: stain with ink or dye; apply enough coats of tru oil to allow very fine sanding (1000 grit) without breaking through into the dye. Apply more coats of Tru-Oil until the desired gloss is reached, sanding very gently between coats with 2000 grit. Grain not showing is easy with plain wood - just use either the Tru-oil sealer /filler, sand down then Tru-Oil as normal. Stained wood is a little more involved as the grain filled parts need to be coloured. Here, the simplest process is: stain; grain fill with Tru-oil sealer / filler (which dries see-thru); sand down to bare wood; restain; finish as above. Larger fills need a proper paste grain filler - use Timbermate (sold in UK as Metolux 'Premium Joiners Grade 1 part wood filler' Stainable (either light or med/dark) and mix a little of your stain with it. Apply, sand, stain, varnish. Hope this helps Andy

Hi Apologies for those who are rightly offended by 6 strings, but the attached might be useful for basses too! I was recently asked if I could make a strat based on some's Hank Marvin signature neck - they wanted it red, but a little bit different top the normal Fiesta Red we all know and . I got an Ash body, veneered it (as described in earlier threads) in Myrtle veneer, then looked for a suitable red stain. After dismissing Dylon fabric dye (wrong shade), I firmed up on calligraphy red ink! No other stain needed, just needed finishing in the usual way with Tru-oil. The photos don't do it justice - it's less yellow in real life and absolutely STUNNING. [attachment=90534:IMG_1868s.jpg] [attachment=90535:IMG_1852s.jpg] [attachment=90536:IMG_1851s.jpg] I'm going to try something similar on an Ibanez bass, but maybe try turquoise Quink!!! Maybe I'll call it my Parker Range I've put some of the shots and some of the other basses and 6 strings I've done on my website (see signature) - and no...I'm not a commercial builder. I just get a kick out of how these things sometimes turn out and have a master plan to eventually try to simply fund what I like dong best - playing them!! Found a damn good grain filler too - shout if you want some more details

This looks the business - lovely job!

Great! Well done

That looks really, really nice

[quote name='JimBobTTD' post='1339359' date='Aug 14 2011, 09:52 AM']I'm no expert, but surely the Stew Mac will be 110V?[/quote] Hi, I think the router charic refers to is the router attachment for a Dremel 4000 (the latter which, as you rightly say, needs to be sourced in the EU). charic - have you forgotten the cost of the Dremmel in your calcs or do you already have one?