Andyjr1515

Excellent! A great build and something that will stay in your and your son's memories for life

I do it too...and usually on my own threads

OK - one scary bit done - cutting the taper. I cut around 2mm oversize and then slowly sneak up on the final size with planes and sanding beams. This is at the 2mm oversize stage: Tomorrow, I will finish-size it and start on the fretting.

Hmmm...trouble is, the items I cover in oil and varnish aren't usually subjected to steam, splashes and hot mugs on a regular basis (well, other than those played in heavy metal bands) But if it was a bass that I knew would be caught in a rain shower every now and then... ...in terms of an oil finish for the timber colour and surface finish and then a polyurethane finish for the waterproofing, I would personally use Tru-oil followed by a decent polyurethane gloss. I would use the Tru-oil first as the grain filler by wet-and-dry wet sanding the piece, probably using around 300 grit where tru-oil is the 'wet' and then wipe off across the grain while still wet. This produces a slurry that very effectively fills voids and fissures. I would leave this overnight to harden off and repeat. I would then do a couple of 'slurry and buff' sessions - using 600-1000 grit wet and dry doing the same, but here I would wipe off ALL of the excess and immediately vigorously buff, along the grain, with a clean cloth to bring up a sheen. Again, I would leave a day after each. I would then leave it around a week to fully harden and then add the polyurethane varnish finish. But that's if it was a bass. And I wanted high gloss. If I wanted a satin finish, I would look at the Osmo Polyx range, especially the 3032 clear satin version, checking the water-resistance on their specs (I think it's probably good, but I've never had to consider it in a bathroom scenario). It is SUPER easy to apply (wipe on); low odour; brings out the depth of colour and ends up super tough. For best results, follow the application instructions ref drying times, etc.. I would NOT, however, recommend their gloss version. Used it once...'nuff said.

Well, maybe - but as most decent neck woods are quarter sawn, then I'm less sure about that. What we need is that guy in the video doing us a demo

Oh...and the grain direction of the timbers also makes a big difference. As I say - everything affects everything

Interesting video but, of course, only just touches the surface in terms of the decision making process. It's a big and fairly complicated topic because, like many things in a bass construction, everything affects everything (another way of putting my oft-quoted belief that 'guitars and basses are a series of compromises held together by hope' ) Absolutely. Two problems with going to or below 19mm: - A player issue: quite a few players will end up with hand cramp due to the position of the thumb and resulting muscle pull directions of the fingers. Some of that, of course, depends on your hand size - A practical issue: a truss rod slot is, as a rough minimum, 10mm deep at the adjuster position underneath the nut. The fretboards are usually around 6mm deep in the middle. The amount of wood underneath the trussrod for a 19mm deep is, therefore, 3mm max in the centre and less either side of the truss rod slot due to the curve of the neck profile. And just under the 1st fret is where the truss rod is applying all of its force downwards. And yes - trussrods sometimes come through the bottom of the neck... Not quite. If the laminate wasn't there, then it would be the base wood. So if it is a maple neck, then a mahogany or walnut splice will reduce the stiffness because those timbers bend more easily than rock maple. If it is a mahogany neck, then maple inserts will increase the stiffness. If it is a maple neck, then ebony inserts will increase the stiffness. Ditto the fretboard wood. And that - although how much of this is detectable to the average player (and almost always not detectable to the average audience ) is the topic of many debates - is why adding mahogany inserts to a maple neck is thought to add a touch of warmth and adding ebony inserts to a mahogany neck is thought to add a touch of mids and treble.

Never! And so am I, most of the time This is actually the first time I've worked with it so I am on a 'journey' as they say. Well - a quick look up on Google, it's clear that this type of product has been around for years and, I think, used in worktops, etc.. So you never know.

And running out of excuses to do the scary bit of cutting this to shape. Slots are deepened and the board is off the template: Oh - and a 'by the way'. I've promised @fleabag luminlays for the side dots. My small stash is running low and so I went onto the Luminlay site in Japan to order some more (they still haven't set up any distributor arrangements, as far as I can find out, in UK and Europe but the shipment from Japan is usually quick and efficient) but no...they can't ship to UK or Europe at the moment due to the flight route sanctions resulting from the invasion of Ukraine. I've spotted some on ebay shipping from the USA - I'll have to try that, costly or not.

I've learnt over the years that a stop-and-review approach is by far the best in this hobby. So before I cut the fretboard to shape - which means taking it off the fretting template - I'm going to do one additional thing. I'm going to put the board back into the mitre block and deepen the slots by a mm. The reason is that, because the Richlite is so tough, any slot that is even a smidge shallow would mean that the fret just isn't going to seat. With a wooden board, a decent enough whack with a hammer would sort minor variances (or so I'm told ) - but this would just bounce off. So that is what I'll be doing between naps today

I'd forgotten just how glorious this build is. No excuses now - we need to see this finished!

I think Richlite is, essentially, Ebonol. They are both paper based. The confusing (maybe intentional, maybe not) Rocklite Ebano is wood based. I actually own the first-in-the-world top back, sides and fretboard Rocklite Sundari guitar (the rosewood-look version) and it's very impressive. However, I've come across issues with some of the Ebano fretboards and personally hate the binding - I find the wood fibres are short and are almost impossible to bend without the fibres springing out, even on the non-taxing curves of an acoustic dreadnought. That said, Tonetech pretty much only sell that nowadays some presumably many folks find it OK. So far, though, for an ebony fretboard alternative I actually prefer this Richlite material even though it feels and looks less like wood than Rocklite. But for a rosewood alternative, the Rocklite takes some beating.

They recommend epoxy. No ironing this one off

No - he's far too busy trying to help Doncaster Rovers hold onto their position in the League

Looks nice stuff Today was a bit of experimenting. Because we are leaving a full overhang on the neck, there wasn't a lot of offcut - just the two ends I used to screw the board to the radiussing jig. Happily, I'd already radiused one of the ends when I was checking out how well the double sided tape worked. So I tried my conventional fretting technique. Started with a light file of the slot edges with a triangular needle file: Then, after detanging the ends, ran a teeny bead of titebond along the tangs followed by a whack both sides and a whack in the middle with my fretting hammer: The glue squeeze-out doubles as an indicator of whether the fret is fully seated. If not, it is a few more whacks! Then I clamp a radius block on while I (usually) move on to the next slot: Looks OK to me...

Yes - it does. And here you can play some tunes (if you excuse the pun). You can take a stiff timber species for the mains and bendier splices or vice-versa. You can add a touch of warmth or a touch of grit. Mind you, judging the best combinations takes a hefty dose of guesswork... But there's a maker I seem to remember who market this with loads of choices of mixes of timber for necks on their custom top line (is it Warwick? Can't remember. Someone here will know).

Yes - and the Pro 1 (?) had that flat wide one (which, given the above, was an 'unusual' choice) , although that seems to have been also relatively quickly dropped. You can see the plate in the thread I have just posted above of @Fishman's Wal save/rebuild a couple of years back.

Hmmm...I've just thought of someone who might still have a genuine Wal fretboard that he may not have a use for Long shot, but I'll contact him

The area of cross section isn't the key factor when it comes to stiffness. It is the depth. The neck works a bit like a steel 'I' beam - the deeper it is, the less it's going to bend As the construction of a standard neck and fretboard at normal neck depths is plenty strong enough to counteract the tension of the strings, then this means you have a huge amount of leeway of how much wood you take off the 'haunches' either side of the spine. This affects the feel (the 'chunkiness' ) and the weight...but not the stiffness. Stiffness for a timber neck will be predominately affected by: the total neck depth; the neck and fretboard timber species; the trussrod and slot; any stiffening inclusion, such as carbon 'rods' (the most effective being actually not rods but solid or hollow rectangles where, again, the depth, not the width, is the critical factor)

That's what I use

Excellent news!

Well, part of this is right. @fleabag did send me the gen and so I am aware.

That joy is yet to come. And much too soon, I suspect

In the end, I agreed a compromise with the Defibrillator Team. They agreed to standby ready as long as they could do that watching Sky Sports in our front room. Bargain!

Splendid! Newtone Strings will make any length you want