Andyjr1515

Just noticed that you replaced the bridge - and the Staytrem doesn't have springs. Ignore my suggestion.

I would certainly contact the supplier and see what they can/will do. Explain to them what you have said in your opening post. You can just about get away with an aberration with a fretted bass but it never works satisfactorily with a fretless - the tolerances between buzz and no buzz are infinitesimally small!

That's the way I would go too.

Does the saddle have a spring behind it? If it does, then removing the spring can get you a few more mm backward movement...might be just enough

It looks lovely.

Yes - fascinating. This is going to be a very cool bass. Might start a trend....

Not sure how I missed this in January! Yes - I like oak too and have used it in a number of builds, including one using oak for the back of a 6 string electric which is the lightest of any of the builds I've done so far (5 1/4lbs including double humbuckers!) Will be watching this one with interest, @benh

Nothing to do with rookies - we've all done it...

That body carve is a delight with the wood choices...

Looking very good.

This above ^ And this might help for us to interpret the problem. It's the nut that's stuck?

There are a few ways of going about this, assuming that you are trying to tighten the hex nut of the jack socket itself against the rugby ball shaped "jack plate", which is then screwed to the body of the bass. - If there is enough length of wire to pull the whole assembly out (which is what you appear to be trying in the photo), then it is usually a case of rotating the jack to relieve any wire twists and you will also probably find a position where the connectors or spring clips of the jack can be eased out of the hole. That allows you to be able to hold the jack while you tighten the nut up. - If there isn't enough wire, then - in that all you are trying to do is stop the jack twisting while you tighten the hex nut - is screw the jack plate back on and hold a screwdriver or similar at the base of the one of the connector lugs of the jack from inside the chamber to stop the jack turning while you tighten the hex nut from the other side. If the wire inside has been twisted too much from the jack turning round in previous attempts, then unscrew the hex nut completely, pull the jack out of the jack plate into the control chamber, untwist the wires and then carry on with one of the two methods above. Where in the country are you? As @PaulThePlug says, there's a sticky thread in this section which is Basschatters happy to help other Basschatters. If you are still stuck, there is likely to be someone on the list within easy travelling distance.

Lovely job

Just looked it up. It was @allighatt0r who originally commissioned it. Over 7 years ago! I was but a lad...

Me too! It's like meeting an old friend

You are right...that can make all the difference

The bax music web site reckons 9.5" I'm pretty sure all modern Squiers are 9.5

Yes - very interested

I love the look of jaguar basses I'm pleased your workshop's done. Lots more goodness to come, I'm sure.

If you want to be able to 'do the whole thing and do it like a pro', then ignore this, @Joe Nation , but if you want to improve a fretboard that has a few high spots - and in the process start to understand the liberties you can and can't take with frets along the way - have a look at the 'quick and dirty' method I outlined in @Geek99 's thread a few months ago: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/455828-12-fret-action-on-p-bass/page/6/#comment-4588058 Andy

We were typing the same thing at the same time

Scotchbright (think panscrub) is better to use than wire wool as there is no danger of fine iron filings stuck to the pickups. It comes in various grades - builders and decorators merchants usually have a wide range, but you can pick up a pack of three grades from most DIY stores nowadays.

The folks above are right to raise the issue of intonation, @mojobass as the intonation adjustment range on bridges can vary enormously. None of the saddle apexes are going have to be set shorter than the scale length but the G will usually be the closest to the scale length (usually around a mm longer). The saddles for thicker strings are usually set at progressively longer positions with the bottom E often 4-5mm longer than scale. So to set the bridge, what I usually do is: - I wind the G saddle fully forward and then back off a mm or two to allow a bit of wiggle room for fitting inaccuracies - I check that the other saddles will adjust at least 4mm further back than this (if they don't, then sometimes that means the bridge will need to be tilted - but this is rare for bass bridges) - I then set bridge so that the forward-wound G saddle apex is at scale length - I pop a piece of easy peel masking tape along the front edge of the bridge so I don't lose that position and then hold a string from the G nut slot to the G saddle and the same between the E nut slot to the E saddle to make sure that the sideways position is central and that the strings are going to be equidistant from the fretboard sides. - I double make sure that the front edge of the bridge is still exactly in line with the masking tape (it's very easy to knock the bridge off position when checking sideways position) and mark my drill hole positions That way, I can be sure that all the saddles are going to be capable of adjusted back far enough to intonate correctly and that the top and bottom strings are equidistant from the fretboard sides

Education is a wonderful thing When I order electrical components like switches from places like mouser/rs components/ etc, there are usually a dozen specifications associated with every item, that I have no idea what they mean. As long as things have the right number of poles and positions then most other stuff is not really relevant and so I don't worry about it. And so - when buying rotary switches in the past - the terms 'shorting' and 'non-shorting' hidden deep in the spec sheets will have gone right over my head. And now I know - through wise folks round here - that 'shorting' is indeed 'make before break'. And I've checked. And, by total toss of a coin luck, the rotary switch I already have in my bits box...just happens to be 'shorting'. And so, theoretically at least, I should be able to sort a pop free solution! Wouldn't have got there without the above wisdom and associated pm's - great forum, this - many thanks, folks

And this too! I knew this was the right forum to ask the question!