Andyjr1515

I lightened an HB a few years back. You do have to remove a LOT of wood, but it can make the difference between being an 'occasional play' and an 'all-night gigger' I'll see if I can find the thread.

I do know where you are coming from. If you do want to carry on trying first, then take the neck off again and put a thicker shim in from the back of the pocket (neck pickup side) to the first set of screws. Be prepared to end up trying this a few times. - Try an old credit card or similar - usually more than plenty but it will give you an idea where you are starting from. Plastic is better than card as it won't compress. - Make sure that there is no obstruction in the pocket and that the neck heel at the front of the pocket is fully seated so that you are gaining the full advantage of the shim - Bolt it all back up and restring. - If the action is now close to OK, then OK. If the strings are flat against the frets at the end of the fretboard, then will the saddle block adjust enough for a decent action without it looking like it's sitting on stalks? If not, then take it off and find a thinner piece of plastic. If the action is still way too high and the neck is seating properly in the pocket, take the neck off again and add a second piece of credit card When you are there or thereabouts, fine tune the truss rod relief and compensate by lowering or raising the saddle block. Many of the Basschatters on the list will do this sort of thing for nowt or close to nowt, so if there is one local to you...

What part of the country are you in @Dankology ? There's a permanent thread at the top of the Repairs section here of Basschatters round the country who can offer help to other Basschatters. It wouldn't take long for someone experienced to diagnose the issue...and I'm always bothered when a majorly high action is put down to truss rod (and yours is a majorly high action). Agreed, the rod may well be not adjusted correctly but, as @BigRedX says, this starts as a neck angle problem and, generally, that is easily fixed.

Just noticed that you replaced the bridge - and the Staytrem doesn't have springs. Ignore my suggestion.

I would certainly contact the supplier and see what they can/will do. Explain to them what you have said in your opening post. You can just about get away with an aberration with a fretted bass but it never works satisfactorily with a fretless - the tolerances between buzz and no buzz are infinitesimally small!

That's the way I would go too.

Does the saddle have a spring behind it? If it does, then removing the spring can get you a few more mm backward movement...might be just enough

It looks lovely.

Yes - fascinating. This is going to be a very cool bass. Might start a trend....

Not sure how I missed this in January! Yes - I like oak too and have used it in a number of builds, including one using oak for the back of a 6 string electric which is the lightest of any of the builds I've done so far (5 1/4lbs including double humbuckers!) Will be watching this one with interest, @benh

Nothing to do with rookies - we've all done it...

That body carve is a delight with the wood choices...

Looking very good.

This above ^ And this might help for us to interpret the problem. It's the nut that's stuck?

There are a few ways of going about this, assuming that you are trying to tighten the hex nut of the jack socket itself against the rugby ball shaped "jack plate", which is then screwed to the body of the bass. - If there is enough length of wire to pull the whole assembly out (which is what you appear to be trying in the photo), then it is usually a case of rotating the jack to relieve any wire twists and you will also probably find a position where the connectors or spring clips of the jack can be eased out of the hole. That allows you to be able to hold the jack while you tighten the nut up. - If there isn't enough wire, then - in that all you are trying to do is stop the jack twisting while you tighten the hex nut - is screw the jack plate back on and hold a screwdriver or similar at the base of the one of the connector lugs of the jack from inside the chamber to stop the jack turning while you tighten the hex nut from the other side. If the wire inside has been twisted too much from the jack turning round in previous attempts, then unscrew the hex nut completely, pull the jack out of the jack plate into the control chamber, untwist the wires and then carry on with one of the two methods above. Where in the country are you? As @PaulThePlug says, there's a sticky thread in this section which is Basschatters happy to help other Basschatters. If you are still stuck, there is likely to be someone on the list within easy travelling distance.

Lovely job

Just looked it up. It was @allighatt0r who originally commissioned it. Over 7 years ago! I was but a lad...

Me too! It's like meeting an old friend

You are right...that can make all the difference

The bax music web site reckons 9.5" I'm pretty sure all modern Squiers are 9.5

Yes - very interested

I love the look of jaguar basses I'm pleased your workshop's done. Lots more goodness to come, I'm sure.

If you want to be able to 'do the whole thing and do it like a pro', then ignore this, @Joe Nation , but if you want to improve a fretboard that has a few high spots - and in the process start to understand the liberties you can and can't take with frets along the way - have a look at the 'quick and dirty' method I outlined in @Geek99 's thread a few months ago: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/455828-12-fret-action-on-p-bass/page/6/#comment-4588058 Andy

We were typing the same thing at the same time

Scotchbright (think panscrub) is better to use than wire wool as there is no danger of fine iron filings stuck to the pickups. It comes in various grades - builders and decorators merchants usually have a wide range, but you can pick up a pack of three grades from most DIY stores nowadays.