Andyjr1515

Was it stored with strings on and at full tension? If the strings were slack in storage, then the truss rod will have bent the neck into a back curve which may have temporarily set in. Whatever the cause, the timbers may have adjusted and fixed into a new set curve when the bass was in storage. One way is to loosen the strings fully and loosen the truss rod fully too and leave it for a few days for it to settle back to its natural shape. Then string back up and adjust the rod basically from scratch. What make is it / do you know if it is a single action or two way?

Hmmm...not sure. I can't see that is any different to the first fret when you fret the second etc. My guess is that the string is always under tension on the fret, plus maybe a sawing effect over time of tuning adjustments. But it's just a guess...

Well, my take on it is: - They are both fine to use - The best time to put a zero fret in is before the neck is finished, during fret slotting and before a nut slot has been cut. To convert a nutted neck to zero fret is a lot of work for questionable gain - and it would have to be done properly and accurately (and you still have to cut an extra slot for the all string-spacer-nut unless like, in this case, it is a headless clamp being fitted which is self-spacing!) - One advantage of zero fret is that you get spot on 'nut height'. But a good nut slotting job can match as near as makes no difference. - Another advantage of zero fret is that you get very little energy loss of the string's vibration for open strings - but I defy anyone to be able to tell the difference between that and, say, a brass or bone nut. - One disadvantage - maybe less so with basses - is that for some weird reason, the zero fret tends to wear quicker than the other frets - and any differential wear that way round will lead to string buzz. It is not unusual for a zero fret to have to be replaced after a couple of years hard playing (though that is not a difficult job)

Well guesswork - and trial and error - are, after all, the staples of our trade Adding guesswork, trial and error to the physics of it all, I reckon for balance and sit, especially with the extra neck length of a bass, headless is pretty hard to beat.

Interesting thread. And the weight distribution, strap positioning, etc, interaction is a complicated topic! No - it's a VERY complicated topic... I found with my series of lightweight guitar and bass builds a few years back another factor I hadn't really considered before - the effect of the horn strap pin and weight distribution on not only whether the neck dives or not, but also the left/right position that the instrument hangs on your body - which can make a long scale feel like a short scale, a short scale feel like a long scale and every combination in between! I'll draw a few diagrams to illustrate when I get a free moment. One thing is for certain, though: cutting off the headstock removes a major leverage factor. Putting the tuners at the back adds a smaller but useful bit of leverage the other way. Both will change the position of the fretboard relative to the player.

Splendid!

Very kind for the mention @Maude - and gosh - that is a super, super job you've done there!!!

That is top-drawer. Beautiful build.

Great! There's a distinctive rasp on one or two of the notes that simply stood out. Great stuff - and great circuit work

My guess is that the 3rd one is the Wal circuit

Splendid! Well done

Splendid concert!

Yup - there's a number of Youtube videos around...

Never tried it but I think that I remember a few years back seeing someone online who did. But I agree - I can't quite remember or see how that can work with the shape of a guitar or bass...

Yes - me too. I've used both the Warwick injection moulded and brass versions and happy to use both types. They are also fitted to the most expensive guitar I've ever bought (a Gillett 6-string) so, if it's good enough for them...

Well, you can get some good results and, if it doesn't work right first time you can always sand off and try again... Remember to either do it outside or to have PLENTY of ventilation and use of a proper spec'd face mask

A strip and stain: Most of the refinishing threads seem to be in Build Diaries rather than the Repair and Technical. There's 83 pages of history so you may need a few more cups of coffee

Here's a strip and refinish:

Here's a fairly recent example of a spray-over-finish:

There are a number of ways to refinish - and there are many examples on these pages (Repairs & Technical and Build Diaries) if you scroll back through the history. The good thing is that many folks cover in the threads quite a bit of detail for their methods and the results so its well worth your while to pour yourself a beer/make yourself a flask of cocoa and spend an evening perusing through. In very broad terms, you can: Strip and varnish Strip and oil Strip, stain and varnish Strip, stain and oil Strip and paint Sand and over-paint Strip/semi strip and veneer And in terms of methods you can: Spray Airbrush Wipe Brush It's well worth having a look through the past threads, choose the look or method that appeals and, between us, I'm sure we can give you the 'tips / techniques / pros / cons / successes / disasters' stuff towards something you are going to be ultimately happy with

Well, all done, set up, sounds great, still weighs a ton I'm meeting Jack and Silvia tomorrow to pass it over. To protect the car the bass for the journey, I've popped it in one of my bass gig bags. Clearly it wants to have a peep to see where I'm taking it:

Very kind of the both of you. As the saying goes, you can never have too many swifts

One of the remaining tidying up jobs was this - the router cut from narrowing the neck heel: And I had an idea. And yes, @Happy Jack - there was always going to be at least one swift A trick I stumbled on a number of years ago was, with a 3-layer pickguard, you can rout through the top layer and expose the middle layer. Like this: And it's just the right thickness: Tidied up, it adds maybe a little je ne sais quoi?

And we have sound! And it sounds great!! Here's the chamber, complete with the CTS push/pull: The second set of strings that Jack had sent also sound and feel great Looks pretty cool as well as sounding pretty cool: Just a few finishing tweaks and final set up and it will be ready to pass back

Top notch.