Andyjr1515

I used to use my side clippers (that I use also to cut the fretwire to size with) to cut in c5mm from the end and then at 90 degrees to take out the rectangle, then file flush to the bottom with a needle file

VERY nice

Sounds nice - any chance of a close-up?

Well, to be honest, that plate must be pretty much 5mm+ to start with. In which case, you might be able to use the pieces as they are. Or, at that thickness, yes, you could maybe run a plane over to level any lumps and bumps. At this thickness, if it isn't already warped, then I don't think it's likely to warp much more...

Yes, indeed. I suppose the difference is that if it is just a bow, along the grain, then the multiple fixing screws will generally cope with holding it flat. But a 'wibbly-wobbly-warp' would look wibbly-wobbly however many screws were trying to hold it down

Actually, thinking about it, I'm pretty sure that both timbers are available (though generally hard to find) as 'constructional veneers' And constructional veneers are 2.5mm thick...

^ This. And it needs to be a sander-thicknesser, not a planer-thicknesser which is far too harsh for getting down to the 2-3mm you are probably aiming for. Both woods would be rigid enough and, with wenge and some maples, I don't think splitting is maybe such a big issue...but it might. And warping can be an issue. But if you have someone with a planer-thicknesser, then it is worth a try. If not, then @Grangur 's suggestion of veneering isn't a bad one.

Not at the moment...they'll start thinking I'm stalking them

Forgive the indulgence...but it's time for the final shots I'm pleased how this has come out

Blast! Huge apologies - and a great personal disappointment - but I'm not going to be able to make this after all This year is all a bit complicated on the family front (just normal life events, but unavoidable and unnegotiable ones) and I'm not going to be able to make it. I think this was the last live list, now amended taking me off. @Richard R - Brawley Artemis 4, Brawley Artemis 5, EBS Session60 amp, something to weigh basses with. + son with his Westfield of some sort. @Stub Mandrel - Fender Performer, Hohner Jack Custom V, Deathburger (HB kit build), TE 1110 combo? @petecarlton - Mayones Cali4 "Puzzle" Bass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYAvWZGwc4s&t=13s&ab_channel=BassTheWorld.com; Sterling by Music Man Short Scale Stingray @Teebs PRS Kingfisher bass, Godin Passion RG-4 RN (It haz arrived! ) @SpondonBassed - Jack. (That's not short for Jack all, it's just that I can't decide until nearer the time.) @bassmansam - Rickenbacker 4003s, Eppy Thunderbird Vintage Pro and Ashdown ABM 500 2x10 combo @jebroad - Not-fender jazz (maybe), squire silver series jazz, old Kay SC, Dingwall combustion, Ashdown 8x10 (Maybe) @Jabba_the_gut - 27" mini basses, Short scale telebass, whatever else I build by then, TC RS210 combo. Cakes @Oldman -RUACH NT 35” Unlined Fretless Custom, head and cab @NickA Since the last one.. got a second Wal with an extra string and those weird metal things in the fingerboard ( supposed to help you play in tune I think, but cause all kinds of problems ). So, yes, please. I'll be there; Couple of Wals and some pjb amps. @Geek99 - POSSIBLE ... Ampeg AMP, bass-doc built relic P, homemade jazz with geddy lee pups, zoom b2.1 @bnt - TENTATIVE - Harley Benton MP-4EB Enhanced "Shamberg" w/ EMGs and its own Ryanair seat, tc SpectraDrive. @Sarah5string Count me in. Dean edge pro 5 bass, Ibanez sr505 bass, little mark III amp, ashdown ABM 115 cab @verb Warwick Corvette and a TE Series 6 amp. I'm really disappointed - it's going to be a great bash! Andy

Set up is almost done. It plays nicely. With the action set at a pretty low 1.0mm - 1.7mm there is just one high spot (14th fret A string) that will just need a couple of minutes of the micro-web to sort and no other buzzes at all. I've secured the battery (a couple of silicone-tubed screws keep it in its chamber) and added the all important label: Still left to do is the nut, a bit of final tidying up on the fretboard, the high spot on the 14th, final polish and then in its case ready for the hand over Oh...but just before that, the final arty farty shots

Balances nicely on the strap. This is a slippy seat-belt-material type strap but, even with "look no hands", it stays exactly where you want it to suit your playing style: And we have sounds....and LEDs Humbucker: Single: 'P': So just the final setup, which I will do tomorrow. Time for a cup of tea

Our very own @Matt P There will be a short pause before the next one, but that will be a corker (albeit also across to the dark side...a 6string electric) Details shortly

I agree with @Richard R - that's very nicely conceived and done

Oh - there were two other targets. One met, one missed a bit. Will it fit into an Hiscox electric guitar case? Yes it will: Did I meet the target of 7 1/2lbs? No - not quite. It's actually closer to 7 3/4lbs. I'm surprised that the strings and pots (the only things added since the last check) added 1/2lb! That said, because it balances well, it's going to feel feather light on the strap...

Wiring isn't soldered up yet but all the components are in place and hatches are on Still to finish: soldering (what little there is); strap buttons; setup Here's how it's looking:

Tasmanian Blackwood is a stunning timber. This will look very special indeed!

Tomorrow is a family day and so I've concentrated on the doing rather than the explaining. I'll fill in the middle bit on Sunday, but it starts with the levelling beam: And finishes with the levelled, re-crowned, polished and fretboard finished The set up will take a little longer, but I can't see why the remaining assembly jobs won't be finished by the end of Sunday

Just clarifying what I meant by 'a wipe of solder across the copper foil joints' - it's just to make sure that there is electrical continuity in all parts of the shielding. The "conductive glue" claim for many of these sticky-backed foils sometimes isn't very I simply pop a small bridge of solder anywhere along each joint. I wipe it across the joint so there isn't a thick blob of solder that might interfere with, say, the fit of the pickup in the chamber: I then check for earth continuity across various points in the shielding, including between the back chamber and the pickup chamber. The SimS cover is conductive and earthed too, so there should be a pretty good faraday cage protection against HT interference. Next job is levelling and recrowning the frets and tidying up the fretboard so that anything that has iron filings around is all sorted and vacuumed before any of the electronics or magnets are fitted

Just weighed it, by the way. 7 1/4 lbs with just the pots and strings to add.

That's enough for one day...SimS holes are drilled

No apologies needed. My threads tend to meander anyway - and usually it's me doing the meandering It's also useful your comment about the low B with a 30" - because it is something that a number of folks do wonder about. But, like you, I've never had an issue. And we have all marvelled at @Jabba_the_gut 's very short scales at various Bassbashes where they seem to defy gravity with such hefty strings played so low on such small instruments. Short-scale is by far the most frequent requests I have been getting over the past three or four years and there is a lot to be said for them from a player's point of view.

Yes - given a few precautions to ensure electrical continuity, a lot of folks (and most volume commercial manufacturers) have great results with conductive paint.

Just a couple more tips and tricks I have reminded myself while I've been doing the pickup chamber and cable tunnel, @PatrickJ . I generally add an overlap and find it easier to pre-bend the edges before I take the backing off: Now, of course, these mostly disappear when you take the backing off, but the lines act as a datum for placing the main shape in the right place. Then I smooth from the middle towards the edges, finishing off running my fingernail into the corners and securing the overage. If I get a split (the double rout in this chamber was a bit too much compound bending for the large piece I was trying to put in) I just fit a covering strip. Again I prebend and aim to get that corner into the corner of the wood first: The tags of wiped solder will ensure that the continuity is maintained so it's no problem that the one-piece is now a two-piece of copper And...shielded: And, even though I say it myself - looking very pretty

I have a couple of dental scrapers for the same job!