Andyjr1515

And so the plan is for me to take out the 2-channel Seymour Duncan EQ and fit @mhoss32 's system and get Matt to do a video with it fitted Two initial challenges were: Challenge 1 Getting it back from Matt Achieved! More than that, before passing it back across, Matt did me a video of the same piece that he will play when the new system's been fitted, as a reference. And here it is back at chez Andyjr1515: Challenge 2 Fitting the 4 knob system into the existing 3 knob control chamber and making it reversible This took a bit of thinking through, some measuring and a fair bit of PM to-and-froing between the two of us. Solution was: - Go V/T/T - Add a blend pot - Fit the above blend pot in a false control cover at the back of the bass Well, got half a chance! That decided, @mhoss32 made up a blend pot loom for me and sent the blend loom, battery loom, volume unit and two tone units on to me while I got on with stripping out the SD EQ from the bass and cutting a temporary control cover:

Hi Anyone who has been following @mhoss32 's stunning build... ...will have been as awe-struck as I was with the sheer depth and breadth of inventiveness in the building and equipping of that amazing instrument. It's worth a full re-read of the thread, whether it is for the immensely impressive wood-working, the top-drawer finishing, the designing and making of his own pickups or for the design and manufacture of his own EQ system!!! So you can imagine how happy was I when @mhoss32 approached me to try out his EQ in one of my basses Hmmm...which bass... ....hmmm....all of my own basses are still with Matt Marriott... Why are they with Matt? Well, he has been doing some videos of a number of my builds - electric, acoustic and bass - and what with Covid, etc, still has them. And it includes 'Kert's Camphor Singlecut': ....hmmm...now there's an idea

Anything in between the pickup and the jack has the potential to change the sound so yes, an extra pot in the chain will have an impact, as does the volume pot itself. Ref the tone pot, as far as I understand these things, the capacitor's job is to bleed off the treble frequencies from the signal. Without the capacitor, the whole signal spectrum is bleeding off through the pot coil and so yes, the tone will be affected, although in a different way than if a capacitor was in the chain. A number of the basses I've done for Tom have had no volume pot or tone pot - the pickup is wired direct to the jack. It makes an interesting comparison to if you add just a volume pot or a volume and tone pot.

Hi @ped Thanks for all your input (and any others involved in the process) in keeping the Basschat site up to date Ref Guitarchat - no, Norton still blocks the site. Andy

Beauuuuuuuuuuutiful....

Good call

That is absolutely gorgeous!

Beautiful

With that stain, this is worth waiting for

From a neck strength point of view or sound, @SteveXFR ? 5 string necks have proportionally much more timber either side of the truss rod slot (assuming one rod) and so I think one semitone either side is unlikely to cause a problem other than maybe the need to tweak the truss rod a touch. Tone-wise, I would have thought that a gauge thickness difference would have more impact than a semitone tension change on the existing gauges, so I personally I would stick with the present strings.

Oh - and worth double checking that the black/white join for both of the two pickups is a good one and that the join is insulated. The black/white join connects the two coils in each pickup and, if the join is poor or is shorting to earth, it will cut out one of the two coils and halve the output.

When you say 'all is smooth' for each individually on max - are they around about the same volume as each other on max? As @Hellzero says, the two pickups need to be balanced volume-wise (done by adjusting the pickup heights) otherwise when you feed in the two together, the volume will tend to drop as the higher output p/u is impacted by the lower one. Usually, the gap between the top of the slugs to the bottom of the strings would be 2mm or more greater for the neck pickup than the bridge p/u (because the string vibration is greater at the neck position). As a starting point, I usually set the bridge at around 3mm and the neck at around 5mm gap and then raise or lower the bridge p/u for optimum sound and finally balance the height of the neck p/u to balance the volume. If the above is OK then there is probably something slightly wrong with the wiring (BTW, your bridge earth position will be fine). It is USUALLY a missing or duff earth - but I find it is worth printing the wiring diagram and then following each wire from the diagram, ticking off each connection point at either end of each wire to check there is not a connection point missing or an obvious dry joint. Oh - and don't worry too much - I've wired dozens of guitars and basses and it's STILL a surprise and joy when it all works as it should first time

I used to use my side clippers (that I use also to cut the fretwire to size with) to cut in c5mm from the end and then at 90 degrees to take out the rectangle, then file flush to the bottom with a needle file

VERY nice

Sounds nice - any chance of a close-up?

Well, to be honest, that plate must be pretty much 5mm+ to start with. In which case, you might be able to use the pieces as they are. Or, at that thickness, yes, you could maybe run a plane over to level any lumps and bumps. At this thickness, if it isn't already warped, then I don't think it's likely to warp much more...

Yes, indeed. I suppose the difference is that if it is just a bow, along the grain, then the multiple fixing screws will generally cope with holding it flat. But a 'wibbly-wobbly-warp' would look wibbly-wobbly however many screws were trying to hold it down

Actually, thinking about it, I'm pretty sure that both timbers are available (though generally hard to find) as 'constructional veneers' And constructional veneers are 2.5mm thick...

^ This. And it needs to be a sander-thicknesser, not a planer-thicknesser which is far too harsh for getting down to the 2-3mm you are probably aiming for. Both woods would be rigid enough and, with wenge and some maples, I don't think splitting is maybe such a big issue...but it might. And warping can be an issue. But if you have someone with a planer-thicknesser, then it is worth a try. If not, then @Grangur 's suggestion of veneering isn't a bad one.

Not at the moment...they'll start thinking I'm stalking them

Forgive the indulgence...but it's time for the final shots I'm pleased how this has come out

Blast! Huge apologies - and a great personal disappointment - but I'm not going to be able to make this after all This year is all a bit complicated on the family front (just normal life events, but unavoidable and unnegotiable ones) and I'm not going to be able to make it. I think this was the last live list, now amended taking me off. @Richard R - Brawley Artemis 4, Brawley Artemis 5, EBS Session60 amp, something to weigh basses with. + son with his Westfield of some sort. @Stub Mandrel - Fender Performer, Hohner Jack Custom V, Deathburger (HB kit build), TE 1110 combo? @petecarlton - Mayones Cali4 "Puzzle" Bass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYAvWZGwc4s&t=13s&ab_channel=BassTheWorld.com; Sterling by Music Man Short Scale Stingray @Teebs PRS Kingfisher bass, Godin Passion RG-4 RN (It haz arrived! ) @SpondonBassed - Jack. (That's not short for Jack all, it's just that I can't decide until nearer the time.) @bassmansam - Rickenbacker 4003s, Eppy Thunderbird Vintage Pro and Ashdown ABM 500 2x10 combo @jebroad - Not-fender jazz (maybe), squire silver series jazz, old Kay SC, Dingwall combustion, Ashdown 8x10 (Maybe) @Jabba_the_gut - 27" mini basses, Short scale telebass, whatever else I build by then, TC RS210 combo. Cakes @Oldman -RUACH NT 35” Unlined Fretless Custom, head and cab @NickA Since the last one.. got a second Wal with an extra string and those weird metal things in the fingerboard ( supposed to help you play in tune I think, but cause all kinds of problems ). So, yes, please. I'll be there; Couple of Wals and some pjb amps. @Geek99 - POSSIBLE ... Ampeg AMP, bass-doc built relic P, homemade jazz with geddy lee pups, zoom b2.1 @bnt - TENTATIVE - Harley Benton MP-4EB Enhanced "Shamberg" w/ EMGs and its own Ryanair seat, tc SpectraDrive. @Sarah5string Count me in. Dean edge pro 5 bass, Ibanez sr505 bass, little mark III amp, ashdown ABM 115 cab @verb Warwick Corvette and a TE Series 6 amp. I'm really disappointed - it's going to be a great bash! Andy

Set up is almost done. It plays nicely. With the action set at a pretty low 1.0mm - 1.7mm there is just one high spot (14th fret A string) that will just need a couple of minutes of the micro-web to sort and no other buzzes at all. I've secured the battery (a couple of silicone-tubed screws keep it in its chamber) and added the all important label: Still left to do is the nut, a bit of final tidying up on the fretboard, the high spot on the 14th, final polish and then in its case ready for the hand over Oh...but just before that, the final arty farty shots

Balances nicely on the strap. This is a slippy seat-belt-material type strap but, even with "look no hands", it stays exactly where you want it to suit your playing style: And we have sounds....and LEDs Humbucker: Single: 'P': So just the final setup, which I will do tomorrow. Time for a cup of tea

Our very own @Matt P There will be a short pause before the next one, but that will be a corker (albeit also across to the dark side...a 6string electric) Details shortly