Andyjr1515

I've lost days in there in the past...

Love those, @Jimothey

Yes - looking good

Slurry and buffed tru-oil works well on many fretboard woods.

I think this one is rosewood. Pau Ferro is generally quite orange.

There you go - brain back in gear and...yes I had got it right in any case! So, theoretically, if you loosened it 'x' number of turns then it should tighten back 'x' number of turns without maxing out (on a single action rod, maxing out is usually where it runs out of thread). From the above text, I assume you have taken the neck off. If so (you can do this method fitted, but it's much easier off) try this: - Build two piles of books or magazines (couple of inches high is fine) and space them apart at a distance equal to 1st fret to 16th fret - place the neck upside down (fretboard at the bottom) on the two piles, lined up broadly with the 1st and 16th frets - with one hand, press vertically down on the neck in the middle of the unsupported length - hard enough for it bow a couple of mm of so - while still holding it down, use your other hand to see if the adjuster will now tighten a touch **basically, your hand pressure is now doing the job that the truss rod was trying to do and relieving the tension on it. This should make the adjuster much easier to turn ** - if, with that hand pressure, the nut is still stuck fast, then STOP and seek further thoughts here. - if, though, it now will move, then repeat the above process until you reckon it is back to where it was before you first loosened it. Then string it up, tune it up and then see if your relief is back to where it originally was

**deleted** might have got my up's and down's the wrong way round! Will repost when I have a moment

Great job indeed! Looks lovely

Standard 0.6mm veneer will normally work fine.

Because the original P-basses always had maple necks (with either rosewood or maple fretboards) I'm pretty sure a mahogany one would be an out and out special. The cheapest I know where I have yet to come across a duff one are the two (maple and rosewood fretboarded) shape-your-own-headstock offerings from Gear4Music: https://www.gear4music.com/bass-guitars/accessories/parts-spares?page=1&filters[238]=3363&_gl=1*vcm0je*_up*MQ..*_ga*OTUxOTMxNjYyLjE3MTkzMzU1NzY.*_ga_0WF1R5QW3K*MTcxOTMzNTU3NS4xLjEuMTcxOTMzNTYwNS4wLjAuMTE4MDQ5MjE2Ng.. In that it usually costs me getting on for £200 just for the uncut timber for a neck, these - at £55 and £45 respectively - are stunning value...

Yes - if it's a relatively new bass, it is worth talking to them sooner rather than later in any event. It is very unusual for a truss rod on a relatively new bass to seize. Let us know how you get on.

If it's outside warranty, then my advice would be to just carry on playing it. It is entirely possible that the rod will not need adjusting over the life of the bass - especially if you tend to use the same gauge and make of strings. If the relief subsequently becomes a problem, then that will the time to consider doing something about it.

Many thanks for the endorsement, @3below Sadly, I am going to have to pass on this one but yes - if the nut is stripped and it's still seized, then that is probably the only way round it.

Great to see it on a guitar!

Superb

Wow - that's a thread from the past. It's entirely optional. A good quality beeswax polish can add some extra 'zip' if the player does a lot of quick movements up and down the fretboard. On some of my own fretboards I've used it, but most of the time I find the standard slurry-and-buff fast enough.

And so to the levelling, re-crowning and polishing. The fretwire I have used was a touch higher profile than the originals and so there was quite a bit of levelling to do to get them down to the levels of the original frets. The good thing, though, was that there would be negligible loss of overall fret height from the original in the final levelled board. I used my levelling beam and a radius block with emery cloth stuck on with two-sided tape to do the initial levelling. Because the fret gaps were now so small, my usual fret rocker was not much use and I had to improvise with a cut-up old store-card: For the fret re-crowning, I started with a Hosco crowning file and then used one of the excellent Chris Alsop diamond crowning files, first just by itself, and then with 400 & 800 emery papers, using the same file as a former, and then 4000; 6000; 8000; 12000 micromesh cloths** done the same way: Hard work** but a pleasing result: Finally, I mixed some macassar ebony dust with some clear epoxy and filled the new tang cut gaps at the fret-ends: So a bit of tidying up and re-oiling of the fretboard and a final check that the fret levels are all as they should be and it should be ready to return to @PaulThePlug **So that's 42 frets each having treatment from 8 passes - a total of 336 passes altogether. Many of you know that : 1. I play sax 2. I have hand arthritis slowly creeping up on me which is already starting to impact on 1. above 3. With 1. & 2. combined, I usually reckon that a normal fret job puts me out of action on the sax for a week Well, 336 passes - I reckon that will probably knock the sax out for the rest of the month! Word has got around and my local Village Community Association have asked me to pass on their sincere gratitude and thanks for this unexpected but welcome period of peace to @PaulThePlug

Probably something similar to what your lad will say when he tries to find Am. Or more like OFH!!!!

Frets in and new fret-ends being filed: So, with that done we have all the frets now ready for levelling, re-crowning and polishing. Oh, goodness...HOW many frets???????

Paul and I had a number of online discussions about the fret arrangement. Some players pick the microtones at particular fret positions so that they are usable for specific scales and this makes it easier not to get lost on the fretboard, but Paul has opted for the full set For hand cutting frets, I use a radius block clamped to the fretboard giving me an accurate 90 degree face for the saw to be positioned up to. Done it a number of times before but that first cut is always a bit scary! : Phew! This part of the project went fairly quickly: Next job, fitting the frets

OK - confession time. When @PaulThePlug asked if I could convert a Squier guitar neck to a micro-tonal my answer was, of course, 'Yes!' Followed very quickly by the question, 'Er...and just what is a microtonal neck??' And there began a journey into a world previously unknown to me. Bands like King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard and their album Microtonal Flying Banana, Turkish traditional string instruments, etc, etc. Fascinating. The practicality...adding a half pitch between each semitone. I used the excellent on-line github FretFind2D program to work out the fret positions: Being non-standard (from a Western point of view) arrangement, it was going to need to be hand marked and slotted. We discussed whether it was easier to just ad a fret bang in the middle of each fret pair but, even though the human ear probably isn't capable of hearing the difference, nevertheless - as all measurements need to be done from the nut in anycase - it was just as easy to measure the correct scale positions. The hand marking was done with an accurate steel rule and a very sharp point! Next job would be cutting the frets!

There's nothing cheating about that!

Older (especially non LED) domestic dimmer switches and the old-fashioned fluorescent lights are notorious for buzzing, however well an instrument is shielded and grounded. There used to be a venue that our band had to turn down gigs from because everything buzzed (yes - even humbucker-fitted guitars!). When they had a refurb and replaced all of the overhead lighting all was good.

Many thanks to @JPJ @Happy Jack and @Matt P for your endorsements Count me as truly flattered However, with both bass/guitar and general life commitments, I'm not able to take on any new 'larger' projects at the moment. I've pm'd @d_g to that effect and given him a couple of names (including the one he mentions in his first post) who I regard as "true builders' builders" to try. I will follow the thread - sounds an exciting project

What a clever way of getting that angle accurate! Consider the idea stolen