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Andyjr1515

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Everything posted by Andyjr1515

  1. You will be able to see when you take the fretboard off. It really depends what kind of joint it is.
  2. And you can see why MrsAndyjr1515 is always so angry!
  3. OK - I'm paying attention. This is getting real and exciting So, the Aria FEB is this one? I've just re-read the thread. Just a thought - and do feel free to ignore it I've got the wrong end of the stick. I've read your musings on getting the right kind of angle of the board to give you a floating overhang and I'm not convinced that there is enough wiggle room to get the board a steep enough angle with the sanding and building up approach (if I've understood those musings properly). The amount of thinning down and building up tends to be impractically high for any major change in angle. On the other hand, a small change of the angle at the heel can make a huge difference (think of how thin a shim needs to be on a bolt-on neck to correct the action if the bridge is over its adjustment range). Once you've got the board off, you should be able to see the neck joint... Because all that got me thinking. And I remembered that years and years ago - I bought a cello neck And to my surprise, I've just found it (MrsAndyjr1515 is, as you can imagine, delighted) : ...and realised just how small that heel angle has to be (5.5 degrees)... ...to produce this effect at the overhang: ...and you might have access to that neck joint soon.....
  4. And what a pleasure that was. If I had to choose the favourite bass I've ever held in my hands, it would be - without doubt, that one. Couldn't tell you why. It just felt magical.
  5. They look like DiMarzios to me...
  6. Looks great, @W1_Pro ! Always had a soft spot for Washburns. And yes - this fits nicely in this section Hope all well with you and yours
  7. Yes - that second coat looks a lot better. It is always a surprise just how much hard work it is to actually sand fully back to the wood! Great stuff - look forward to seeing the result
  8. Like the sound of this Mad as a box of frogs - Love it!
  9. It's @Fishman 's request but - with there being so much black on the pickguard pickups, etc - it looks right to me.
  10. Ideally (if I get my drill holes the right size ), just an interference fit. You only really need them not to drop out when you are changing strings...
  11. Most of the reveal coat of stain and tru-oil is off. One last job before the final hand sand and 'watching paint dry' stage is the string-through ferrule recesses. For this I use my Proxxon drill press for accuracy (it is small but it has very little runout - spindle wobble - that affects many drill presses) and then the old channel-tunnel trick of drilling from both sides and meeting in the middle to ensure that the entry holes and exit holes are individually lined up visually, but also actually meet in the middle to allow you to get the string through . The holes at the back are recessed to ensure that the tops of the ferrules are flush with the back. With ferrules, it's best not to 'try them and see if they fit' before you are ready to fit them permanently
  12. I haven't. I suspect that wooden binding would loosen in places and have to be reglued on reassembly and acrylic binding would distort and need to be replaced.
  13. Just wipe on and buff off will certainly darken the exposed wood at the same time as removing any on the lacquer.
  14. I'd like to take credit, but this was how the blank was delivered to me One of the best suppliers in the UK
  15. No gloss on this one - we're going for the slurry and buff satin And yes, you can do slurry and buff with stained wood - but there is a very specific sequence you have to do which I'll cover when I do the reveal next week
  16. So that's all the excitement over Now it's a case of stripping it all back to the wood and starting the full finish. As it won't look tangibly different to the mockup on the previous page for a few days I won't do a 'watching paint dry' step by step. Instead I'll just summarise once it's looking even and satiny.
  17. Specifically here: ...so I think @durhamboy gets the prize... ...which is... ...a big cheesy grin from Andyjr1515 :
  18. Pretty close. It's easy to see at the back: But quite skillfully matched by David Dyke's team at the front:
  19. I woke up this morning and thought...what's better than Tusq XL for a nut. Another root around in my (chaotic) bits box and I found what was just one step better - a piece of bleached bone. Life's too short to work out the 'string thickness compensated' separations so I use a commercial plastic one as a guide where I can I ground it down to height and added the dropaway and with my trusty Hosco nut files got on with it. I don't use this vice very often but for this it is perfect: And done. Ready to box up over the weekend and ship back to @Raslee first thing Monday :
  20. It is actually a 2 piece - although from the front view I defy anyone to say where the join is... Swamp Ash one-piece blanks are like hens teeth at the moment - I understand from David Dyke that logging has stopped due to the impact of Ash die-back.
  21. @Fishman asked me if I could do a quick mock-up to see how the rest of it looks with this stain. Seems mean to keep you all from a gratuitous mock-up Going to look alright, I reckon
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