Andyjr1515

This is a beautiful build, Jez

Hi Yes - it doesn't look like it is structurally unsound so I think it is eminently fixable. There a number of ways of tackling, but personally I would get a tube of thin superglue (not the gel type and not Gorilla - Gorilla thin cyano is still too thick - more like thin Bostik superglue you can get in Homebase, etc.. Any cyano will do but it needs to be that kind of thinness.) and use it to stop the two cracks creeping any further I would then squirt it liberally either side of where the crack starts. Capillary action will 'suck' the glue deep into the crack and this should stop the crack getting longer. It will suck in quite a lot so I would go for a medium size tube rather than the smaller one. Having stabilised the crack I would then fill with whatever is your preferred filler so that it doesn't show through the final paint finish.

Looks great!

The control chamber is now copper shielded: And I've worked out the heights of the pickups to work out where - and what height - to put the fixing screw blocks. Once I've installed those, I can copper foil the bottoms of those chambers too. I won't need to do the sides as the carbon cases are also earthed through the looms. All of the copper will be electrically connected with a wipe of solder across any joins between the different pieces within and across the multiple chambers and earthed to the same point as the SimS switches.

The SimS switches are the SimS switches...they have the printed circuits on for the pickup options and the clever volume compensation so they are what they are. But the temporary knobs are black But actually, I will be checking with @Jus Lukin whether he wants the nuts and washers in black (same with the nut and washer for the inset jack plate) - the sticks will be chrome whatever. When I say 'clever volume compensation' , seen on @TheGreek 's Silk Bass then what SimS have achieved is actually very clever. In electric guitar circles, multiple coil switchings are common, but most suffer from a common challenge - that when you switch from a 'humbucker' to a 'split (single) coil' option, there is a major volume drop. With these pickups, there is almost no volume change whatsoever between the three options. You can hear Nick demonstrating this on @TheGreek 's bass in the Basschat video at the beginning of this thread. These are the printed circuits attached to the chrome switches (you can see why, at least for the stalks, that they will have to be what they have to be @BassTool ) : This, by the way, is the neatest this will get - there are three 12-wire looms and the standard wires to fit in here yet! It's why the hatch may well need to be fitted with screws rather than magnets... This is how the whole thing is starting to look (presently with chrome nuts and washers for the micro switches): Now all the controls holes are there, I'll start sorting the shielding. The end is in sight!

Lovely

Actually...maybe an opportunity? I'm thinking the three pieces back staggered to get you 2/3 towards the new angle?

This does have to be one of the most innovatively exciting threads to date....

We're going for an oval jackplate, set into the body. It's 6 of one and half a dozen whether this is best done before or after the main finishing. For gloss, I tend to do any holes and cuts after because these kinds of features can tangibly change how well the coats go on the way I do it. If I was doing a spray finish, I would do it before. It never ceases to amaze my just how big a hole you have to drill to fit a standard jack plug! 20mm is pretty much the minimum and even then you often have to taper it to allow the tip contact the required movement: And these jack plates don't have a lot of leeway: A carpenters mallet and two or three different radius curved chisels around the periphery and I can start paring away the wood with a standard chisel. The criss-cross formed by the chisels is useful because it prevents chippings getting too large and deep: And happily, no slips. In the morning, I'll tidy up the edges with some fine emery and finish off with a quick sealing wipe of tru-oil:

Nice for you to offer, @NickA (I just LOVE this forum ) but it's OK - I'm fine with copper foil. I use it on all of my builds. Ref the pickup holes I agree - generally I don't shield those and on guitars it is often a case that you absolutely don't because it can perceptibly change the tone if you do...but Martin SimS says that it is worth doing on these and so it's probably best to follow the advice. I'll be doing copper screening tomorrow - I'll let you know if I have to eat my hat (which wouldn't be the first time ).

This was the switch and pot layout I agreed with @Jus Lukin when I was working out the size of the control chamber. We have some options for the tone, volume and jack, but this is basically where the switches will go. And this really was a 'measure 14 times, drill once' jobee! Especially as the SimS switches are offset! The twenty six more times measuring got me here: Tight! Pots and jack positions next and then it will be the chamber shielding

Thanks, Mick The first time I tried this to get an 'old look' on a full refurb was your very own Silk Bass And I still think your choice of Orange was inspirational! Even though, at the time, I did say "ORANGE???????????"

And to the final finish stage of the body - the tru-oil slurry and buff. "But hang on" I hear you say, "it's stained! You can't slurry and buff stained wood. It'll sand all the stain off!!" Well, that was the conventional wisdom - pretty much up to me looking at my LP Junior that I'd stained in cherry red and thought...hmmm...what if...?? And yes you can. But - like all these things - there are a couple of tips and tricks. And so where we had got to was this - actually bad photo because, other than at the edges, you can't really see the gloss starting to build up. But this, with the wood having now drunk in the oil into the grain, each extra coat of tru-oil starts bringing out a gloss finish: To illustrate, based on the number of coats I put on @Jus Lukin 's headless, just one more coat would give me this level of gloss: But that is not the finish that @Fishman is after. He is after more the 'old bass well looked after' look. And for that look, slurry and buff on stained wood is ideal The method is simple: - proceed in the usual way with the initial coats of Tru-oil. Just wiped or brushed on, allowing it to dry in between coats. First few will be sucked into the end grain. - at the point that each extra coat is starting to leave a gloss finish and the end grain is no longer absorbing more oil, stop. - leave it for 2-3 days minimum to harden - I then slurry and buff a coat. But - unlike normal where the slurry is tru-oil mixed with the wood dust - this time the slurry is the new tru-oil mixed with the hardened tru-oil surface sandings. I use either 1500+ wet and dry or 2500+ Micro-mesh - The original hardened tru-oil coat is actually quite tough and it is not likely, with the above grit, that you will break through into the stained wood (if you do, you will lose the stain in that patch) but - the slurrying is a relatively light one and care is taken at any corners and edges where there is a greater danger of breakthrough. - while it is still wet (ie pretty much immediately) I then wipe off the oil with some kitchen roll and then, with fresh roll or a lint free cloth, buff it dry. And that is it! I went from @Fishman 's slightly gloss body above to this in less than 20 minutes: And it's silky smooth to the touch. If feels like a well-cared for 40 year-old bass... ...which is where we came in

And one of the bigger of the remaining jobs done. Frets are fully levelled, recrowned, polished, fretboard is polished up and fretboard edges are rounded off: I've done the fretboard the same way I do for my own guitars that have ebony boards - it's a variation of the tru-oil slurry and buff. With ebony, you can just polish it up but I find that slurry and buff with fine emery (400 grit) gives a glassy smooth feel and stops the grot getting into the teeny grain lines of the wood with hard playing. I got a pleasingly rapid reply from Martin at SimS and he says that shielding the pickup chambers themselves is OK. An interesting reminder - the Superquad cases are carbon fibre and fully conductive and so are themselves fully earthed. So next job will be drilling the holes for the controls and shielding all of the chambers. But while the Tru-oil and rubber gloves are out, I'll just do the slurry and buff on @Fishman 's Wal save. Oh - and that will give me time to check with @Jus Lukin what kind of jackplate he prefers

Trust us - NONE of this thread is boring....

And yes - the big gap at the back of the joint (the gap on my dreadnought is smaller but is there nonetheless) is essential. The angle of the joint itself pulls the neck into the body as it goes down - it is a VERY strong joint when it is fully engaged. If there wasn't a gap at the back, the tenon would prevent the neck pulling fully against the body and you would have a gap at the sides of the heel and a very weak joint.

Hopefully this will help you think it through. And the tweak on your proposal wouldn't have to be very great to get a joint every bit as sound as the original one. This is what you are seeing, prior to stealing MrsMaude's steam cleaner: And this is what you should see after stealing it: So yes - you could file the 5 degrees-ish angle either side and just follow the angle of the dovetail down - which of course would make the triangle more acute. But, assuming you took a template of the original size of the end shape, you would just have to add two tapering pieces of timber to each side of the resulting tenon to recreate this shape, albeit at a 5 degrees angle to present. Which is, I think, what you said in the first place?

Absolutely. Always the best policy - take one step and then re-assess And yes - with some tweaks, what you say is perfectly feasible. The tweaks are that there needs to be enough strength in the joint at the bottom (which is why the heel block is there) to prevent the bass 'clapping hands' when you string it up But you will be able to judge the best thing to do once it's off.

As they used to say for American Express..."That will do nicely, Sir"

Very plausible - it all depends where, how far, what angle and what's in the way. The ideal is a straight line as @BigRedX rightly says, but sometimes that's not possible. This afternoon has been about frets and fretboard. Not finished but well on with it. The frets had already been levelled with a levelling beam but, to be able to guarantee no buzzes at decently low action heights, it needs to be better than that alone. So I use a rocker across a number of points for each fret looking for high spots: There were around 7 frets that needed some attention in particular spots across their widths...but the 11th fret, hmmm I just wasn't happy with. From halfway across the fret, the 'high spot' was more than I would have expected. I had a real close look and came to the conclusion that it wasn't seated properly. Now, a decent whack from the rubber mallet might have sorted it...but I wanted something a bit more certain than that. So, because I run a small bead of titebond along the fret tangs when I fit them, I first heated the fret with a soldering iron to soften the glue: Then used the fret-removal pincers to ease it out. These are just like any other end cutters, but the end is ground down so that the jaws can get under the tiny gap under the fret wire: Tidied up the slot, checked it was deep enough and then detanged a length of fretwire so that I could leave the tang slot ebony fill at each side in place: A tiny bead of titebond along the tang, fret inserted and then judiciously whacked with the mallet and this is a good sign - the glue squeeze-out means it's seated properly: Wipe clean and then a radius block clamped on for 10 minutes for good measure: All of the remaining high spots were levelled and the fretboard edges rounded over a touch. So tomorrow will be to re-crown /polish any flat spots and then scrape and final sand the fretboard In the meantime, I've emailed Martin Sims to ask whether they advise shielding the pickup cavities or not. The control chamber can be shielded while I'm waiting for the reply and the switch and pot holes can be drilled

By the way, the 'heel block' will be glued to the neck but will usually form a continuation of the dovetail joint. You steam-heat the dovetail and not the heelblock joint and so this will act just as if it had been a solid heel. The sharp edged joint is just that they didn't sand it smooth before fitting the neck

First of all, congrats getting the fretboard off so well! OK - there's sort of good news and bad news here. The good news is that yes, it's a dovetail joint - so, unlike one video about Aria acoustics I've seen where it was dowelled and the guy had to saw it off - then yes, it's perfectly feasible to get the neck off. Worth having a look at the internet and the Stewmac site because you basically have to get steam into the joints to get heat into the glue and soften it just like with the fretboard. Stewmac sell a surprisingly cheap steam 'hose and needle' for the job. If MrsMaude has an old Prestige pressure cooker that can go into your workshop like the iron, that's ideal...but there are other ways of generating steam. The good thing about a dovetail joint is that once you get it moving (when the glue is soft, you basically tap the bottom heel with a rubber mallet to 'crack' the joint), the tapered joint quickly lets go and the neck lifts out. The bad news is...that it's a dovetail joint Because cutting a new dovetail to match the angle and get a half decent joint isn't the easiest thing to do. But you can turn a dovetail joint into a mortice and tenon joint...and that's a LOT easier. I'll try and find some photos of my acoustic builds, where I have used both types, to show you the difference.

The jack socket hole is usually an ideal place. Again, you need a long drill.

There are a number of ways, yes. The challenge is usually what your options of direction are in terms of a drill being in the way and the accuracy of angle and direction - especially if you are trying to join two holes meeting in the middle. Sometimes it's the same with cable runs. The 'standard' way of getting a double humbucker cable run into a solid body is to drill with a long drill though the back of the neck pocket all the way through both chambers. Again, a small amount of drift over that length can result in a large variance from where you were originally aiming. And long drills can bend while they are drilling...

Great tip