Andyjr1515

Agreed - it doesn't look good. Happily, it is fake (well, if the US President can run a country on that basis for 4 years...). I can only take a one handed photo on the SLR with my right hand, which unfortunately is the hand I drill with. So this is held in the left hand and is not drilling. "And that, m'lud, is the reason we are not paying the insurance for the totally forseeable accident."

The original board is 5.7mm but, with the radius, reduces to around 4.5mm at the edges. This board is also 5.7mm but is flat, so it gains that extra thickness at the edges.

I've been spending a bit of time getting @Jus Lukin 's headless to the finishing stage - probably another couple of days to do - but while I was doing the Luminlay on that one, I used the same equipment (such that it is) to also add the luminlay to @Fishman 's Wal neck I won't repeat the full how to (that is covered fully in the other thread), but it basically involves: drilling an accurate hole; popping a drop of superglue on the end of the Luminlay 'stick'; inserting said stick; cutting flush to the fretboard; trimming with a sharp chisel. Couple of the above steps: And done: When I've rounded the fret-ends and filled the tang slots, I will give the edge a final sand and then add a very thin wipe-on finish to the edge, including the wood exposed when blending the new fretboard to the original Wal neck. If I get it right, it should be a durable and invisible blend With the headless soon moving into the 'add a coat of finish and then leave for 24hours' stage, the build progress on this one will accelerate over the coming week

Love the colour of the bass, btw.

Or feed the edge of a thin duster or old T-shirt under the knob and wrap it/twist it around a touch so that you are getting even tension all around then pull firmly but steadily the twisted fabric directly upwards.

Hmmm...seem to have missed this one. Thanks for posting the link

Love that double cut, by the way @WilliamV

You are right - there are no hard and fast rules, but when you are buying strings (and here there are still a decent number of exceptions) then the 'convention' drifts towards 30" being short scale; 32" being medium; 34" being long scale (and as you say, some would say is standard scale). Above 34" is usually classed as Extra Long if you are buying strings. But not always

Ooooh...I like the sound of this. I'll be watching with great interest.

In pictures, @BassTool : Here's basically what I use: I position with the steel rule: then I use a sharp ended punch to mark the entry point for the bradpoint drill bit to avoid any wander: then drill a few mm deep - taking care not to 'wiggle' the drill: After a dry test fit - ideally it is a tight push fit - a drop of gel superglue on the end of the stick: Then it is pushed fully home and the excess glue wiped quickly away: Personally, I find the x-acto modellers razor saw the best to cut it off: Finally, I trim it flush with either a very sharp chisel or a single-edged razor. With an unfinished neck, I would just sand it flush as part of the final sanding but I don't want to accidentally catch the varnish on this Wal: 2 1/2 done, 8 1/2 to go! :

I like that a lot

Looking great from here

I forgot to photo this time round, but it's basically this: These particular luminlay sticks are 3mm dia, so after pressing a sharp punch spike to mark the spot, I use a decent quality 3mm bradpoint drill bit in my little battery powered hand drill and drill to around 3mm deep. The luminlay diameter is accurate and the drill point and diameter are also accurate and so you end up with a nice tight, gapless fit (this one is a previous build). I buy the type with a black sleeve around the luminous core - it make the finished result look great: So after a trial fit, I then I just pull it out again, put a teeny spot of gel superglue on the end and push it firmly back in. After a few minutes I can use a modeller's razor saw to cut it fairly flush, then either use a sharp chisel or just a sanding block to sand it flush with the board: And because there are no gaps, that's it! Nothing to fill - it's done. It is one of the reasons I stick with Luminlay even though you have to buy it from Japan and, with VAT and the inevitable customs handling charge, it ends up pretty pricey for a teeny stick...but the accuracy means it is very easy to fit. I'm probably doing @Fishman 's Wal neck tomorrow - I'll try to remember to take shots of the whole process

And the Luminlays are in:

Purposely asymmetrical

I've started the neck carve and the final sanding. With the neck I still have probably 1mm to take off the thickness and I have to move from a U profile to a D. With the sanding, I have to do the cutouts, the tail, anything I've missed and then re-establish the edge radii. But, as many of you will know, I find it very useful to apply a quick coat of Tru-oil as a 'revealer'. I don't know about other builders, but I find it exceptionally difficult to spot sanding marks, dips and dints in a dry sanded body. So still loads to do here, but that sealing coat gives a decent indication of the wood tones that will be there in the finished article. So it's time for a mockup : I think that's very promising

Well what I've done is this: I've set in a piece of ebony into the top under the tuners to act as a visual balance. I've been looking at this propped up in the evenings the past week thinking, 'there's something missing and I'm not sure what'. Now I've done it, I know that is, indeed, what was missing: Fingers crossed that @Jus Lukin likes it too! And so, the plan for today and tomorrow is to get this to finishing stage. Tasks: - Putting in the luminlay side dots - Starting the neck carve - cutting the control chamber hatch - sanding all of the glue blobs, router burns and general lumps and bumps away ready for the first finish coats

Unscrew the large screw at the back which will release the gear wheel. Then pull the whole peg with its flange out from the top. Then you should be able to get a spanner on the bush

So what is Andyjr1515 up to now?? I will reveal tomorrow (assuming it's worked - or in a day or so if it hasn't ) And polished frets and rounded fret-ends:

Looking really good. Those chips will fill no problem with the sawdust, as you say.

So all three of those pedals don't work at all? OK...that's weird

Try taking one out of the loop at a time. Might be that the bypass signal isn't getting through either because of a pedal or faulty patch lead/jack.

Looking really good

Adjusting action with the trussrod is a 'quick fix' in certain situations (generally if your frets aren't level) but isn't the way to do it all other things being equal. Ideally, the neck should be within a gnat's whisker of flat in any case.