Andyjr1515

Oh dear! What has gone wrong? It was looking great...

It's OK. We've got Boris on the case... ...oh, c**p

I quite like the Seymour Duncan STC pre-amps. The 3-band version STC-3P uses 4 holes and I've fitted those to two basses - and I've also fitted the 2-band version, the STC-2P to my own fretless. Easy to fit, not overly expensive and work a treat...

Lovely job

It's great to follow up hunches and "I wonder what would happen if"'s. I will be one among many following one of your own "I wonder what"'s

Can you post a picture of the present one? Assuming it's a BTB-300FM, a number of the photos on Google show a Neutrik locking jack. A quick shot of the jack and folks here will be able to tell you exactly what to buy

Splendid

Hi There's a lot of good sense mixed in with a decent amount of confusion in this thread! Let me try to crystallise the bits that are right and the bits that matter: With a bass, pretty much everything affects everything. So, more specifically to your particular issue, the tension of the strings affects the bend of the neck which affects the action height which affects the intonation. And so there is an important sequence when you are starting with an unknown quantity - that is, a bass whose set up is unknown 1. Fit the strings that you plan to use 2. Tune up to pitch 3. Check the neck relief (simplest way that is 'near enough' is: Hold down the G at the 1st fret; Hold down at the 17th fret; tap the string in the middle (8th fret); there should be just perceptible movement. Repeat for the bottom E string. Choose whichever has the least gap. Then: a gap up to the thickness of a business card is close enough - more than that, the truss rod needs tightening; a tiny gap is fine but if the string is hard against the fret at the 8th, the truss rod needs loosening - there has to be at least a perceptible gap) 4.Now you can check your action height 5. Adjust the action height at the saddles. Don't worry about them being high on their grubscrews - once they are up on the grub screws, it makes NO audible difference how high they are as long as you haven't run out of thread 6. If you have, indeed, run out of adjustment, then you may need to add a thin shim to slightly change the angle of the neck. Let us know the results of steps 1 - 5 before doing this 7. Once you have set your action height, you can set your intonation. I can explain why it has to be in this order, but this is the order it has to be (which is what most folks above are saying too). Hope this clarifies.

Rewired to series (Tom's preference) which has evened out the string differential nicely. As many of you know, I'm no bass player - but here's a clip:

And...it's finished!!!! Here are some shots:

I should be able to find a much more recent one. That was the first veneer job I did! You did well to find it

The walnut veneer will be fine if you go for that. I'll try to dig out the thread of 'veneers without the tears'.

Hmmm...another can of paint? Veneering a headstock like this is pretty straightforward, but matching, as you say, would look pretty good...

Not just an addict but a fast worker too! That's a lot of instruments in a relatively short time. I like the designs and choice of woods - they all look like well looked after older instruments rather than brand new stuff. Great job.

Sounds like you've done a good job on it.

Just waiting for some info from Tom to do the side dots and then it's pretty much done Neck finish is all done, bridge elements are all earthed and the pickups are wired up to the jack. Getting individual bridge elements earthed can be a problem - it's one reason why some folks use a ferrule block rather then individual ferrules. So how I have solved it is like this: I will earth the G string ferrule with a wire into the chamber and then daisy chain an earth from the G bridge block to the others. So a hole is drilled from the ferrule hole to the jack chamber and a stripped wire end wrapped round the ferrule and led through to the jack chamber: So, once the blue wire is earthed to the jack, that is the G string and bridge block earthed. Then I put some copper foil in each of the bridge-block recesses and soldered a shunt running through a small drilled channel between each: And a G string threaded through the ferrule should mean earth continuity between the blue wire and the E-string bridge block. And we have continuity: So now the jack can be wired up direct to the humbuckers. Here it is just ready for the final earth connection from the blue wire to the jack. I have a choice of parallel or series across the two humbuckers - I'll decide once it's all strung up and playable through an amp but for starters this is parallel. And all done (including a tap test through the amp) And so - just the side dots, re-assemble and its done

Still one of my favourites, @fleabag

@BreadBin and @fleabag are very kind. It's not my speciality, to be honest (I can't actually remember how I made @fleabag 's ! ) but if you want to PM me, @Basinski , we can go through what it is you are looking to do and whether I can help.

Those will work but I prefer the ones with an allen socket in the top. By the way, the slot in these are not for a screwdriver - the slot goes downwards in the hole. The are inserted by fitting a screw with a nut, winding the nut up to the insert and then using a spanner to screw them in...which is why I prefer the ones with an allen key slot

They tend to be single size for each screw diameter. There are generally two types also, those with a flange on the top and those without. Both are OK but I tend to go with the flangeless ones as it is easier to ensure that they are not at all standing proud of wood surface when screwed in.

"So remaining jobs: - fit luminlay side dots - fit the pickups - install the Dunlop inset strap locks - string it up with the new Status strings - take the arty-farty shots" And the one I forgot - earth the bridge blocks Pickups are in: And a blurry picture of the inset strap locks installed:

OK - we're on the final furlong. - Grandparenting duties done and a clear run until Christmas (and maybe beyond!) - MrsAndyjr1515 sufficiently irritated with my week-long presence in the daylight to actively encourage (ie, push) me back down the cellar - Frets levelled, re-crowned and polished - loads of 'air-bass' playing on the test strings to confirm action heights and intonation ranges - final bits all on hand (I'm pretty sure) to finish the job And today I sorted the truss-rod cover magnets: The wenge cover will match the colour and sheen of the headstock once they have both had the same number of finish coats. I have chiselled a tiny nail relief at the apex for easy removal: The finishing of the neck (silky smooth Tru-oil slurry and buff as done on the other basses of Tom's I've worked on) has also started. So remaining jobs: - fit luminlay side dots - fit the pickups - install the Dunlop inset strap locks - string it up with the new Status strings - take the arty-farty shots - wait for a Covid-secure time corridor for Tom to be able to pick it up!

I know someone who did...

Because it will be under the bridge, there's no real danger in drilling the hole, but that does seem to be a neat and pragmatic solution if the pickup chamber is shielded.

Many congratulations on the baby and bass