Andyjr1515

I should be able to find a much more recent one. That was the first veneer job I did! You did well to find it

The walnut veneer will be fine if you go for that. I'll try to dig out the thread of 'veneers without the tears'.

Hmmm...another can of paint? Veneering a headstock like this is pretty straightforward, but matching, as you say, would look pretty good...

Not just an addict but a fast worker too! That's a lot of instruments in a relatively short time. I like the designs and choice of woods - they all look like well looked after older instruments rather than brand new stuff. Great job.

Sounds like you've done a good job on it.

Just waiting for some info from Tom to do the side dots and then it's pretty much done Neck finish is all done, bridge elements are all earthed and the pickups are wired up to the jack. Getting individual bridge elements earthed can be a problem - it's one reason why some folks use a ferrule block rather then individual ferrules. So how I have solved it is like this: I will earth the G string ferrule with a wire into the chamber and then daisy chain an earth from the G bridge block to the others. So a hole is drilled from the ferrule hole to the jack chamber and a stripped wire end wrapped round the ferrule and led through to the jack chamber: So, once the blue wire is earthed to the jack, that is the G string and bridge block earthed. Then I put some copper foil in each of the bridge-block recesses and soldered a shunt running through a small drilled channel between each: And a G string threaded through the ferrule should mean earth continuity between the blue wire and the E-string bridge block. And we have continuity: So now the jack can be wired up direct to the humbuckers. Here it is just ready for the final earth connection from the blue wire to the jack. I have a choice of parallel or series across the two humbuckers - I'll decide once it's all strung up and playable through an amp but for starters this is parallel. And all done (including a tap test through the amp) And so - just the side dots, re-assemble and its done

Still one of my favourites, @fleabag

@BreadBin and @fleabag are very kind. It's not my speciality, to be honest (I can't actually remember how I made @fleabag 's ! ) but if you want to PM me, @Basinski , we can go through what it is you are looking to do and whether I can help.

Those will work but I prefer the ones with an allen socket in the top. By the way, the slot in these are not for a screwdriver - the slot goes downwards in the hole. The are inserted by fitting a screw with a nut, winding the nut up to the insert and then using a spanner to screw them in...which is why I prefer the ones with an allen key slot

They tend to be single size for each screw diameter. There are generally two types also, those with a flange on the top and those without. Both are OK but I tend to go with the flangeless ones as it is easier to ensure that they are not at all standing proud of wood surface when screwed in.

"So remaining jobs: - fit luminlay side dots - fit the pickups - install the Dunlop inset strap locks - string it up with the new Status strings - take the arty-farty shots" And the one I forgot - earth the bridge blocks Pickups are in: And a blurry picture of the inset strap locks installed:

OK - we're on the final furlong. - Grandparenting duties done and a clear run until Christmas (and maybe beyond!) - MrsAndyjr1515 sufficiently irritated with my week-long presence in the daylight to actively encourage (ie, push) me back down the cellar - Frets levelled, re-crowned and polished - loads of 'air-bass' playing on the test strings to confirm action heights and intonation ranges - final bits all on hand (I'm pretty sure) to finish the job And today I sorted the truss-rod cover magnets: The wenge cover will match the colour and sheen of the headstock once they have both had the same number of finish coats. I have chiselled a tiny nail relief at the apex for easy removal: The finishing of the neck (silky smooth Tru-oil slurry and buff as done on the other basses of Tom's I've worked on) has also started. So remaining jobs: - fit luminlay side dots - fit the pickups - install the Dunlop inset strap locks - string it up with the new Status strings - take the arty-farty shots - wait for a Covid-secure time corridor for Tom to be able to pick it up!

I know someone who did...

Because it will be under the bridge, there's no real danger in drilling the hole, but that does seem to be a neat and pragmatic solution if the pickup chamber is shielded.

Many congratulations on the baby and bass

For a bass that you don't want to refinish, it's as good as anything, Mick.

Great job. Those ferrules look fine to me. Don't forget that I am lining up only 4 in much the same space. My dimensional errors will be hidden to the eye - and that's something you can't do when they are pretty much touching each other.

Hooooooorrrrraaaaaayyyyy!!!!!!!!! - 2m- - 2m- And it's beautiful

And to the nut. I have to say that, now I've got over the slightly nauseating smell when you are filing a bone blank (and a mask is essential due to the very fine and dubious-looking dust), cutting a bone nut or saddle is a very satisfying thing to do. First stage was to cut it to length and file the slight curve at the two sides: Next, I used feeler gauges to mark a line a gnat's whisker higher than the maximum fret height: Then - with the spare strings fitted - filed the slots at the correct angle and spacing with my trusty Hosco nut files: Finally, filed the dropaway behind the string contact point for each slot and then took off all of the sharp corners: This allowed me to tension up the strings and try to play it a bit. Felt fine! Next job is the side dots using the last strip of green luminlay I have in my bits draw

Most fret slots are flat bottomed. The critical thing is that the slot has to be deeper than the fret tang across the whole length - even after radiusing the board - otherwise the fret won't seat. The fret is wider than its tang and so seats on the surface of the board and therefore follows any radius the board happens to be.

I couldn't remember which build I used those particular washers with. One of my favourite projects

Ah - I see now. Thanks. That said, I'm still not sure how you cut the fret depth...is the bottom strip half cut?

I use M4 for a neck.

Thanks - yes...gleaned from seeing advice from the many who, like me, have done the same thing as you first time round...

Next was fixing the tuner positions - again I've replicated Tom's first African Bass with the bass perpendicular and the treble angled. And now I am able to tension the strings, I can cut the bone nut from the blank pictured below to get the string spacing sorted at the nut: