HazBeen

Personally I think the best approach is to do 4 coats of Tung, let it dry for a week or 4 and then do a wax (hard wax) coat. That is generally what I do with all my builds. But I have no better reasons for it other than that is what I like and think is right. But most builders only do oil, so I may just be wasting effort

Thanks, that makes sense. The feel is not that of mainly oil, so not surprised it is all wax. Much appreciated!

I have a very early Warwick Streamer, including the almost obligatory headstock (lol) repair. The repair is sound, but not the best looking ever (and in places too uneven for my liking) and I do feel that adding 2 Wenge splines and putting a new veneer on the headstock is a good mod/repair upgrade. Since I am building a neck with wenge, I should have the offcuts needed for the splines and a bookmatched veneer. Does anyone know if the early Warwicks were wax finish only or oil + wax? Calling @warwickhunt and @Kev and any others who might know.

Sigh, still no sign of my neck woods ..... come on DHL.

Fantastic build, really stunning.

Thanks, I am enjoying the process. Generally what happens is that I wake up one morning and I know what I want to do. I may even have 2 with 1 pickup closer to the neck, or just 1 but in MM sweet spot. Time will tell

Not any issue, I’ve done it before with 2 Dc40s without issue, and so does Michael Tobias (on the Super 5, which has 2 MM style pickups).

Clearly not into Darkglass

Body rounded, belly and arm contour done and did some further mock up ..... picked up on a few bits I need to tweak/change for it all to fit right. Since I am going fretless, I may just go with the 1 pickup. We’ll see.

The B-Axis are excellent, good choice.

From the UPS thread I can see you are in Ireland. https://www.radiocontrolledshop.ie/rc-screws-nuts-bolts/11968-losi-m25x4mm-flat-head-screws-3-z-tlr245018-sk-dublin-ireland.html

Take the bolts you have to an electronics shop, preferably one that has an older pre-internet guy behind the counter. He can probably tell you what size it is just by looking at it. Or just buy a few in sizes 2 and up (they go up in .5 increments), if you have some digital calipers it will tell you the actual size. Remote control hobby shops also often stock the smaller sizes.

I still have fretless in mind ..... so think this is where I’m heading with this one. Now to find some time to work on it.

That’s how it works, rarely do people build just one ....

Clickety click, click click clickety click.

Very cool!

I like this a lot. You certainly took on a challenge, but it is proof that if you are handy, take your time and put the effort in, you can build a bass ...... one that is all your own. It feels differently, as it is a part of you.

If you can hear your fan, you ain’t loud enough Clearly for recording it’s annoying in all seriousness.

I agree that a belt/Spindle etc sander is very handy, and I own them too. same as drill press. But I could do without, which is why I did not include. Perhaps the list needs to be “absolute essentials” and “very good to have”

This is a question that has many different answers, because dependent on your design you will need more or fewer tools. Personally and for my builds I could not do without: - Router - Hand plane - Bandsaw - a Shinto rasp - a selection of files and chisels - clamps (for glueing) - orbital sander - Fretsaw - sandpaper in different grits - a hand drill (think I’ve covered my basic needs now).

Should look pretty cool, although it will take a while before I get to that point. Next up is finalising the body shape (bit of sanding), then rounding, belly and arm contour and then the bridge/control/pickup cavities. Then we move to the neck build.

Worked

This always scares me......