HazBeen

I will most likely use a soapbar pickup at around 650. At least that is what my 1st mockup looks like

So my son Harvey came up to me last week and said: “Dad, I’d like to play bass just like you”. At almost 8 clearly he can’t use my basses, but then I remembered I still have a 30” Hofner neck in storage, and almost all the wood and hardware required. Tuners are the only thing I would need. Thanks to @Shaggy I now also have these sorted, so once I have finished the fretless I will be doing a shortscale for Harvey. It must be red, but for the rest I can do what I please the Guv’ tells me. Okay son! If it turns out he isn’t picking up the instrument, then I have a travel bass I’ll remodel the headstock and stick on some bookmatched facings, do a body in ash, and for the rest I am thinking single pickup in a P-ish location. Watch this space.

I have to say that I have zero feel with “artist” provenance of an instrument, I wouldn’t pay more or put any effort in securing one. Not sure why, but it is what it is.

Coat 3: especially the grain on the back is starting to be more pronounced. 1 more and I think we are good.

Fugly guitar by the way, but aren’t they all 😂

Your’s like mine is indeed the 1400watt MOF, the JOF is just over a thousand watts, but also capable. They also do a 2400watt version 😱. What I like about the MOF is the built in lift, which meant I could make this out f some scrap I had.

Exactly this. A good template and removing most with a Forstner is the way to go. You can do it without drilling, but the chances for chip out increases. Do it in 5 mm passes if you do. I also have a Triton, they are excellent. I have the bigger version, but was contemplating buying your model. Just make sure your bit and the collet are the correct size, potentially you need to buy another collet.

No pics, but coat 2 is on!

It would suit it I think

Well strictly speaking Bailey cannot fret w@nk as he is on a fretless

Aria most likely, as they are in front of and playing Arias

Coat 1, lovely Tung Oil..... such a great finish. Check out my little tripod too 😂

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You only need a cab this size if you have roadies, so we can probably not worry about the weight

Shortened the screws to the correct size and sanded the body to 600 grit. Looking to do a coat of Tung Oil every day until Saturday from tomorrow, and then 000 Steel Wool to finish on Sunday. Then hardware/electronics install Monday or perhaps Sunday. Getting there......!!!

The same feeling I had when I did my first, but actually if you are careful, think twice drill once and ensure you countersink it is very easy.

Thanks! As I was saying to Jabba yesterday I hadn't done a scratch build (okay I am not making a neck this time around) for a number of years. It really has inspired me to do more of it and I have learnt a lot from the build process and going through other build diaries. I am pretty happy with how it is turning out, there are a few things that I know I could do better with more practise, but that is exactly what this is. I will just clean up the drill marks on the cavity the bit was a bit blunt, it is offensive to my eyes even if it is inside the cavity. Next build, 5 string semi-headless OR 5 string fanned fret including a full neck build as well. Have done them before, so whilst I will be rusty I am comfortable I could achieve that as well. But heck, still lots of sanding and Tung Oil to do on this one first

Oh, and in case you are interested. The body incl. cavity cover is 1728 grams. That is about bang on the money wrt to what I was hoping at the outset, I will end up with a 3.9/4kg bass.

I didn't need to drill the neck, nor are there inserts. There were existing holes in the neck (as I made the body for the neck so to speak), so I put some nails with tape around them to center them into the neck holes, then pushed the neck into the cavity. The nails made indentations in the cavity which I then drilled with my pillar drill. Status does not use inserts in any case, Rob Green makes the necks with a wooden spine and a very thick layer of epoxy. I have installed many Status necks over the year, what you do is drill a hole that is a tight fit for the screw you are going to use and countersink it to prevent chipping. You then just screw directly into the neck and the wood/epoxy base is strong enough. I am assuming you are asking the question because you are thinking of installing a Status neck, if you need any advice feel free to drop me a message. I can give you some tips/tricks.

Finished fabrication today. - Neck cavity now a few mms deeper - Pots/jack/bridge installed (and taken off again 😂) - screws/ferrules for the neck sorted (just need to shorten the screws a bit) - magnets installed Now to sand and slap on 4 coats of Tungoil...

Tung (oil) & cheek