HazBeen

Thanks! As I was saying to Jabba yesterday I hadn't done a scratch build (okay I am not making a neck this time around) for a number of years. It really has inspired me to do more of it and I have learnt a lot from the build process and going through other build diaries. I am pretty happy with how it is turning out, there are a few things that I know I could do better with more practise, but that is exactly what this is. I will just clean up the drill marks on the cavity the bit was a bit blunt, it is offensive to my eyes even if it is inside the cavity. Next build, 5 string semi-headless OR 5 string fanned fret including a full neck build as well. Have done them before, so whilst I will be rusty I am comfortable I could achieve that as well. But heck, still lots of sanding and Tung Oil to do on this one first

Oh, and in case you are interested. The body incl. cavity cover is 1728 grams. That is about bang on the money wrt to what I was hoping at the outset, I will end up with a 3.9/4kg bass.

I didn't need to drill the neck, nor are there inserts. There were existing holes in the neck (as I made the body for the neck so to speak), so I put some nails with tape around them to center them into the neck holes, then pushed the neck into the cavity. The nails made indentations in the cavity which I then drilled with my pillar drill. Status does not use inserts in any case, Rob Green makes the necks with a wooden spine and a very thick layer of epoxy. I have installed many Status necks over the year, what you do is drill a hole that is a tight fit for the screw you are going to use and countersink it to prevent chipping. You then just screw directly into the neck and the wood/epoxy base is strong enough. I am assuming you are asking the question because you are thinking of installing a Status neck, if you need any advice feel free to drop me a message. I can give you some tips/tricks.

Finished fabrication today. - Neck cavity now a few mms deeper - Pots/jack/bridge installed (and taken off again 😂) - screws/ferrules for the neck sorted (just need to shorten the screws a bit) - magnets installed Now to sand and slap on 4 coats of Tungoil...

Tung (oil) & cheek

Black ferrules for the neck screws, not done them yet.... one of the things up next.

Tung Oil, so nothing thick Appreciate the input, thanks!

Did a few things over the weekend, it is always surprising how many hours you lose “fiddling” about. - Input jack hole - Pickup routed - Neck routed The neck cavity is a perfect fit, although annoyingly I messed up somewhere and I need to route another 3mm deeper (not an issue, just annoying). Slowly getting there.... Question for @Jabba_the_gut and @Andyjr1515, do you reckon the fact the neck has square corners at the heel there could be a risk of the body cracking when the neck is installed/strings tuned to pitch? The solution would be to add a 2nd pickup so the heel pushes against the pickup, not wood. What do you think?

Magnets sourced 5mm x 2mm should do the trick.

Yep

Well, I had bought screws, but I was just thinking magnets is the way forward. Now to source some

Bit more progress today. - Cavity routed - Cavity cover - Arm contour (just needs final sanding) - Belly contour (just needs final sanding)

So, spent a few hours in my new “workshop”..... Body trimmed and rounded, and mocked up the cavity/neck/pickup etc. I am quite pleased with the result so far. If I am super-critical I wish the join between top and body was a bit more consistent, but I am really nitpicking. All the really scary stuff done, so neck pocket, pickup cavity, control cavity, arm and belly contour next.....

An envied man you will be

I may still cater to you ...... I have built 5 or 6 basses over the years and trust me, I have had more than a few FUs, resulting in having to redo bodies, necks etc. etc. So, until all is said and done I expect anything.

In case anyone wonders what the line is on the topwood, it is pencil (centreline) not a gap.

What did the wood say to the glue? It feels clamped in here.....

Haven’t had much time. But just going to glue the spalted maple top....

Well done, they look nice! Enjoy them.

Oh, spalted maple cap almost certain

I plane routed the body today. Such a versatile machine a router. First took 5mm off, which took it to just under 2100 grams (with a few 100 grams still coming off). I then just went “full on” now having 32mm left, and I will stick a 7mm topwood on so will end up at 39mm. Expect to end up at around 1700 grams without hardware. Perfection Will post pics at some point.